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THE 

COMPLETE   COOK. 


PLAIN  AND  PRACTICAL 

DIKECTIONS 

FOR 

COOKING  AND  HOUSEKEEPING; 

WITH    UPWARDS    OF 

SEVEN  HUNDRED  RECEIPTS: 

CONSISTING    OP 

DIRECTIONS  FOR  THE  CHOICE  OF  MEAT  AND  POULTRY 

PREPARATIONS  FOR  COOKING,  MAKING 
OF  BROTHS  AND    SOUPS; 

BOILING,   ROASTING,  BAKING,  AND    FRYING 
OF   MEATS,   FISH,    &c. 

SEASONINGS,    COLOURINGS,   COOKIiVG   VEGETABLES  ; 

PREPARING  SALADS,  CLARIFYING; 

MAKING  OF  PASTRY,  PUDDINGS,  GRUELS,  GRAVIES,  GARNISHES,  &c. 

AND,  WITH 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  MAKING  WINES. 


WITH    ADDITIONS    AND    ALTERATIONS, 

BY  J.  M.  SANDERSON, 

Of  the  Fiunklin  House. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

LEA    AND   BLANCHARD. 

1846. 


.^ J^c-,^^^*-^ ^f.-^- 


Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1843,  by 

LEA  AND  BLANCHARD, 

in  the  clerk's  office  of  the  district  court  of  the  United  States  in  and  for 
the  Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvania. 


J.    FA&AN,    STEREOTYPER. 


J.  AND  W.  KITE,   PRINTERS. 

(8) 


THE 

PREFACE 

TO 

ENGLISH   EDITION. 

LIBRARY 

The  following  work  has  been  written,  not  only  with  the  view  o* 
furnishing  a  complete  Cookery  Book,  but  also  for  the  purpose  of  in 
structing,  in  a  simple  manner,  inexperienced  mistresses  and  servants, 
in  the  elementary  principles  of  the  culinary  science ;  not  losing  sight 
of  endeavouring  to  inculcate  the  relative  duties  of  the  employer  and 
the  employed.  Almost  the  only  cookery  book  in  our  language,  ia 
which  reasons  are  given  for  the  doctrine  laid  down,  is  "  The  Cook's 
Oracle,''  by  the  late  Dr.  Kitchiner.  The  Doctor's  work,  though  ex- 
ceedingly valuable,  is  a  book  fitted  more  for  the  improvement  of  the 
initiated,  than  for  the  instruction  of  those  who  possess  no  knowledge 
of  the  subject.  There  are  many  other  books  of  cookery  to  which 
exceptions  might  be  taken,  but  we  have  no  wish  to  enhance  our  own^ 
work  by  depreciating  the  labours  of  others.  We  have  done  our  best 
to  produce  a  book,  which  all  who  can  read  may  understand,  and  by 
which  all  may  be  instructed.  Dr.  Kitchiner  says,  in  his  "  Rudiments," 
and  says  truly,  "  I  have  taken  much  more  pains  than  any  of  my  pre- 
decessors to  teach  the  young  cook  how  to  perform,  in  the  best  manner, 
the  common  business  of  her  profession."  In  our  " rudiments"  we 
have  endeavoured  to  teach  that  which  a  woman  should  know  before 
Bhe  can  be  called  a  "  young  cook,"  as  well  as  that  which  a  young 
cook  has  to  learn. 

To  conclude ;  ours  is  a  book  intended  for  the  use  of  persons  who 
keep  servants,  and  those  who  keep  none.  If  we  give  expensive  re- 
ceipts, we  also  show,  that  good,  substantial  dishes,  and  the  most  deli- 
cate, may  be  prepared  at  as  little,  or  even  less,  expense  than  the 
ordinary,  or  common  preparations  of  food.  In  our  receipts,  in  particu- 
lar, we  have  written,  necessarily  written,  many  things  which  have 
been  written  before,  but  we  feel  assured  that,  taken  as  a  whole,  our 
work  will  not  be  found  devoid  of  originality. 

For  the  art  of  baking,  and  all  the  little  knick-knacks  of  fancy  bread, 
such  as  biscuits,  sweet  cakes,  &c.,  and  for  confectionary,  we  refer  our 
readers  to  two  little  works,  by  the  Editor  of  "  The  Cook,"  called 
"The  Baker,"  and  "The  Confectioner,"*  which  form  part  of  the  series 
of  "Industrial  Guides." 

*  "  The  Baker"  and  "  Tho  Confectioner"  will  shortly  be  published  by  Lo3  & 
Blaiichard,  at  25  cents,  in  one  volume. 

1*  (3) 


PREFACE 

TO 

THE    AMERICAN    EDITION 


It  is  said  that  "  Good  wine  needs  no  bush,"  and  according 
to  the  same  rule  a  good  book  should  require  no  apology,  (as  a 
preface  generally  appears  to  be).  In  this  instance,  as  we  are 
not  the  author,  we  intend  to  devote  the  small  space  allowed  us, 
to  the  praise  of  this  our  adopted  work ;  for,  of  all  the  English 
books  on  this  subject,  none,  according  to  our  ideas,  possess 
half  the  claims  to  public  approval  as  this  one  does.  The  author, 
whoever  he  is,  is  certainly  a  proficient  in  his  business  ;  and, 
although  making  no  pretensions  to  a  literary  character,  has 
laid  down  his  rules  and  precepts  in  a  clear  and  concise  manner. 

Very  few  additions  or  alterations  have  been  made  in  this 
work ;  in  fact  none,  excepting  where  circumstances  rendered  it 
necessary;  it  being  considered  best  to  send  it  forth  to  the  Ame- 
rican world  with  all  its  beauties  untouched ;  at  the  same  time 
we  wish  it  to  be  understood  that  we  do  so,  not  because  the 
subject  is  a  barren  one  ;  on  the  contrary,  were  we  to  condense 
all  the  necessary  information  we  have  on  this  science,  we  should 
swell  our  small  book  to  the  dignity  of  a  three-volumed  work  ; 
but,  by  so  doing,  we  should  place  it  beyond  the  reach  of  that 
class  to  whom  its  precepts  will  prove  most  valuable.  We  hav 
therefore  concluded,  after  due  reflection,  to  leave  such  labours 
alone  until  we  have  more  time  and  experience. 

The  American  stomach  has  too  long  suffered  from  the  vile 
concoctions  inflicted  on  it  by  untutored  cooks,  guided  by  sense- 
less and  impracticable  cook-books ;  and  it  is  to  be  hoped,  that 

1**  (5) 


VI  PREFACE   TO   THE    AMERICAN    EDITION. 

as  this  subject  is  now  becoming  more  important  in  these  days 
of  dyspepsia,  indigestion,  dec,  a  really  good  book  will  be  well 
patronised,  and  not  only  read,  but  strictly  followed ;  and  let  it 
not  be  said  hereafter  that  "  the  American  kitchen  is  the  worst 
in  the  world." 

As  we  have  made  but  few  alterations  or  improvements,  we 
do  not  consider  it  at  all  necessary  to  offer  to  the  public  any 
apology  for  our  seeming  presumption  in  thus  undertaking,  at 
our  age,  to  edit  a  work  which  we  think  requires  little  improve- 
ment, and  consequently  no  great  degree  of  talent  on  our  part. 
Should  we  ever  undertake  anything  original,  we  shall  then  act 
with  more  humility.  All  that  we  ask,  in  the  present  case,  is 
the  wide  and  extended  use  of  the  "  Complete  Cook." 


THE  COMPLETE  COOK. 


RELATIVE  DUTIES  OF  MISTRESS  AND  MAID. 

In  this  our  little  work,  we  more  particularly  address  ourselves  to 
Cook  Maids  in  small  families,  where  two  maid  servants  only  are  kept, 
and  where,  consequently,  all  the  business  of  the  kitchen  falls  upon 
the  cook,  both  as  regards  cleaning  and  cooking.  In  such  families,  it 
is  true,  the  mistress  in  the  house  will  take  a  part  in  the  business  of 
cooking  upon  herself;  a  most  laudable  custom,  both  as  regards  eco- 
nomy, and  the  real  interests  of  the  cook  maid.  To  such  mistresses, 
particularly  the  younger  portion,  it  is  hoped  our  little  book  will  not 
be  unacceptable.  Cooking  is  neither  a  mean,  nor  a  simple  art.  To 
make  the  best  and  the  most  of  everything  connected  with  the  suste- 
nance of  a  family,  requires  not  only  industry  and  experience,  but  also 
considerable  mental  capacity,  or,  at  any  rate,  an  aptness  to  learn. 

One  of  the  principal,  if  not  the  principal,  requisite,  in  a  cook,  ia 
order — that  faculty  by  which  a  person  is  enabled  to  keep  all  things  in 
their  proper  places.  Without  order  there  can  be  no  cleanliness,  an- 
other indispensable  requisite  in  a  cook :  to  be  always  cleaning,  is  not 
to  be  clean.  There  are  some  foolish,  fussy  women,  who,  with  all  the 
disposition  on  earth  to  be  clean,  not  having  order,  dirty  one  thing  aa 
fast  as  they  clean  another.  Nor  is  order  an  essential  requisite,  aa 
regards  the  cleanliness  of  a  kitchen,  and  of  kitchen  utensils,  only;  in 
dressing  food,  without  order  there  can  be  no  good  cooking. 

VVe  have  said,  that  the  mistress  will  take  a  part  in  a  small  family 
in  the  business  of  cooking.  We,  perhaps,  should  have  rather  said, 
ought  to  take  a  part;  for  we  are  sorry  to  say,  that  there  is  too  much 
reason  to  believe,  that  good  housewifery  is  much  neglected  in  the 
educating  of  young  ladies  now-a-days.  If  a  mistress  be  really  not 
acquainted  with  the  general  principles  of  cooking,  she  ought  to  do 
one  of  two  things — either  to  make  herself  acquainted  with  them  aa 
an  humble  learner,  or  to  keep  out  of  the  kitchen  altogether;  for  her 
ignorant  interference  with  a  good  cook  maid  will  do  no  good,  but  may 
do  a  great  deal  of  harm.  And  while  on  this  subject  we  must  give  a 
word  of  friendly  advice  to  the  unfortunate  cook,  who  may  happen  to 
fall  in  with  an  ignorant,  irritable  mistress.  Let  her  take  care  to 
refrain  from  going  into  a  passion  with  her:  if  the. mistress  scolds,  let 
the  maid  be  mild ;  and  above  all,  let  her  not  scold  again,  or  answer 
in  an  angry  or  insulting  manner.  This  is  a  hard  thing  to  do,  we  are 
aware,  particularly  where  a  servant  feels  herself  injured ;  but  if  she 
can  do  it,  she  will  not  only  gain  the  victory  over  her  mistress,  but  she 

(13) 


14  THE    COMPLETE     COOK. 

will  also  feel  a  consciousness,  a  happy  consciousness  .-ying  left- 
undone  those  things  which  she  ought  not  to  have  don  ^  and  of  having 
done  those  things  which  she  ought  to  have  done.  But  if  the  tempera 
and  habits  of  the  mistress  and  maid  are  incompatible  to  that  good  un- 
derstanding which  ought  always  to  subsist  between  the  employer  and 
the  empJoyed,  the  best  course  for  the  servant  t/v  do  is,  to  give  notice 
and  leave.  Let  not  this,  however,  be  done  m  anger :  before  giving 
Vv'arning,  let  her  consult  her  pillow. 

It  has  been  well  observed,  that  it  behoves  every  person  to  be  ex- 
tremely careful  whom  she  takes  into  her  service;  to  be  very  minute 
in  investigating  the  character  she  receives,  and  equally  cautious  and 
scrupulously  just  in  giving  one  to  others.  Were  this  attended  to, 
many  bad  people  would  be  incapacitated  for  doing  mischief,  by  abusing 
the  trust  reposed  in  them.  It  may  be  fairly  asserted,  that  the  robbery, 
or  waste,  which  is  but  a  milder  epithet  for  the  unfaithfulness  of  a 
servant,  will  be  laid  to  the  charge  of  that  master  or  mistress,  who 
knowing,  or  having  well-founded  suspicions,  of  such  faults,  is  prevail- 
ed upon  by  false  pity,  or  entreaty,  to  slide  him,  or  her,  into  another 
place.  There  are,  however,  some  who  are  unfortunately  capricious, 
and  often  refuse  to  give  a  character,  because  they  are  displeased  that 
a  servant  leaves  their  service  \  but  this  is  unpardonable,  and  an  abso- 
lute robbery ;  servants  having  no  inheritance,  and  depending  on  their 
fair  name  for  employment.  To  refuse  countenance  to  the  evil,  and 
to  encourage  the  good  servant,  are  actions  due  to  society  at  large ; 
and  such  as  are  honest,  frugal  and  attentive  to  their  duties,  should  be 
liberally  rewarded,  which  would  encourage  merit,  and  inspire  ser- 
vants with  zeal  to  acquit  themselves  well. 

Servants  should  always  recollect,  that  everything  is  provided  lor 
them,  without  care  and  anxiety  on  their  part.  They  run  no  risks, 
are  subject  to  no  losses,  and  under  these  circumstances,  honesty,  in- 
dustry, civility,  and  perseverance,  are  in  the  end  sure  to  meet  with 
their  reward.  Servants  possessing  these  qualifications,  by  the  bless- 
ing of  God,  must  succeed.  Servants  should  be  kind  and  obliging  to 
their  fellow-servants;  but  if  they  are  honest  themselves,  they  will  not 
connive  at  dishonesty  in  others.  They  who  see  crimes  committed  and 
do  not  discover  them,  are  themselves  legally  and  morally  guilty.  At 
the  same  time,  however,  well  recollect,  that  tittle-tattling  and  tale- 
bearing, for  the  sake  of  getting  in  your  mistress's  good  graces,  at  the 
expense  of  your  fellow-servants,  is,  to  the  last  degree,  detestable.  A 
sensible  mistress  will  always  discourage  such  practices. 

We  have  knov^^n  servants  imagine,  that  because  their  employers 
are  kind  to  them,  that  because  they  do  not  command  them  to  do  this 
or  that,  but  rather  snlicit  them,  that,  therefore,  they  cannot  do  with- 
out them,  and  instead  of  repaying  their  good-nature  and  humanity  by 
gratitude  and  extra  attention,  give  themselves  airs,  and  become  idle 
and  neglectful.  Such  conduct  cannot  be  too  much  condemned,  and 
those  servants,  who  practise  it,  may  depend  upon  it,  that,  sooner  or 
later,  they  Vv^ill  have  cause  to  repent.  Let  it  be  remembered,  that  vice 
ft     veil  as  virtue  has  its  reward,  though  of  a  very  different  character. 


DUTIES     OF     MISTRESS     AND     MAID.  15 

We  shall  conclude  this  our  friendly  advice  to  young-  cooks,  by  an 
extract  from  the  ''Cook's  Best  Friend,''  by  the  late  Dr.  Kitchiner. 
Nothins^  can  be  done  in  perfection,  which  must  be  done  in  a  hurry, 
(except  catching  of  fleas), — '*  Therefore,"  says  the  Doctor,  "  if  you 
wish  the  dinner  to  be  sent  up  to  please  your  master  and  mistress,  and 
do  credit  to  yourself,  be  punctual ;  take  care,  that  as  soon  as  the 
clock  strikes  the  dinner  bell  rings.  This  shows  the  establishment  is 
orderly,  is  extremely  gratifying  to  the  master  and  his  guests,  and  is 
most  praiseworthy  in  the  attendants.  But  remember  you  cannot  ob- 
tain this  desirable  reputation  without  good  management  in  every 
respect;  if  you  wish  to  ensure  ease  and  independence  in  the  latter 
part  of  your  life,  you  must  not  be  unwilling  to  pay  the  price  for  which 
only  they  can  be  obtained,  and  earn  them  by  a  diligent  and  faithful 
performance  of  the  duties  of  your  station  in  your  young  days,  in  which 
if  you  steadily  persevere,  you  may  depend  upon  ultimately  receiving 
the  reward  your  services  deserve." 

All  duties  are  reciprocal;  and  if  you  hope  to  receive  favour,  endea- 
vour to  deserve  it  by  showing  yourself  fond  of  obliging,  and  grateful 
when  obliged.  Such  behaviour  will  win  regard,  and  maintain  it; 
enforce  what  is  right,  and  excuse  what  is  wrong. 

Quiet,  steady  perseverance,  is  the  only  spring  which  you  can  safely 
depend  upon  infallibly  to  promote  your  progress  on  the  road  to  inde- 
pendence. 

If  your  employers  do  not  immediately  appear  to  be  sensible  of  your 
endeavours  to  contribute  your  utmost  to  their  comfort  and  interests, 
be  not  easily  discouraged;  persevere,  and  do  all  in  your  power  to 

MAKE  YOURSELF  USEFUL. 

Endeavour  to  promote  the  comfort  of  every  individual  in  the  family; 
let  it  be  manifest  that  you  are  desirous  to  do  rather  more  than  is  re- 
quired of  you,  than  less  than  your  duty;  they  merit  little  who  perform 
nothing  more  than  what  would  be  exacted.  If  you  are  desired  to  help 
in  any  business  that  may  not  strictly  belong  to  your  department,  un- 
dertake it  cheerfully,  patiently,  and  conscientiously. 

The  foregoing  advice  has  been  written  with  an  honest  desire  to 
augment  the  comfort  of  those  in  the  kitchen,  who  will  soon  find,  that 
the  ever-cheering  reflection  of  having  done  their  duly  to  the  utmost 
of  their  ability,  is  in  itself,  with  a  Christian  spirit,  a  never-failing 
source  of  comfort  in  all  circumstances  and  situations,  and  that 

"  Virtue  is  its  own  reward." 

Having  thus  briefly  touched  upon  the  relative  duties  of  mistress 
and  maid,  we  shall  now  proceed  to  make  some  general  remarks  (and 
though  general,  we  think  them  most  important)  as  respects  the  busi- 
ness of  Cooking  as  an  art,  or,  more  properly  speaking,  as  a  science. 


16  THE  COMPLETE  COOK. 

INTRODUCTORY  GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  COOKERY— IM 
PORTANCE  OF  GOOD  COOKERY  AS  REGARDS  HEALTH 
AND  TEMPERANCE. 

It  is  an  old,  and  somewhat  vulgar  sayingf,  thoug-h  very  expressive, 
that  '*  God  sends  meat,  and  the  devil  cooks."  This  adage  shows,  that 
cooking  has  always  been  considered  of  some  importance  in  this  coun- 
try, even  among  the  lowest  classes  of  society.  A  great  deal  too  little 
attention,  however,  is  paid  to  the  art  of  preparing  food  for  the  use  of 
those  who  eat;  and  we  think  we  may  say,  without  much  exaggera- 
tion, that  in  many  families,  even  to  this  day,  one-half  of  their  moat  ia 
wasted,  and  the  other  half  spoilt.  But  the  mere  waste  arising  from 
this  system  of  cooking,  or  rather  want  of  system,  is  not  the  greatest 
evil,  though  this  is  an  enormous  one;  the  diseases  that  badly  dressed 
food  occasions  to^he  stomach  are  even  a  greater  evil  than  the  one  to 
which  we  have  first  referred.  A  bad  cook  will  turn  that  which  waa 
intended  by  the  Giver  of  all  good  for  the  nourishment  of  the  body  into 
a  sort  of  poison.  The  functions  of  the  stomach,  when  loaded  with 
crude,  undressed,  or  half-dressed  meat,  are  unable  to  digest  it.  Hence 
the  stomach  is  not  only  injured,  but  a  train  of  diseases  is  engendered, 
sufficient  to  render  one's  life  miserable.  From  the  cause  alluded  to 
arises  acidity,  or  sourness  of  the  stomach,  which  gives  rise  again  to 
heart-burns,  hiccups,  flatulencies,  or  wind  ;  which  again  creates  paina 
in  the  stomach  and  head,  and,  indeed,  in  other  parts  of  the  body. 
Then  again  we  have,  from  the  same  cause,  the  various  descriptiona 
of  nightmare,  horrid  dreams,  and  restless  nights.  Country  people, 
in  agricultural  districts  in  particular,  think  themselves,  when  so 
afflicted,  bewitched,  or  possessed  by  the  devil,  when,  in  fact,  if  pos- 
sessed at  all,  they  are  possessed  by  bad  cookery  and  indigestible  diet. 
Instead  of  resorting  to  charms,  such  persons  ought  to  resort  to  a  dose 
of  opening  medicine,  and  take  care  to  eat  food  which  is  not  spoilt  by 
dressing.  But  the  greatest  of  all  ills  by  which  we  can  be  afflicted, 
ill-dressed,  indigestible  food  will  bring  about — intellectual  confusion — ■ 
perhaps  madness — for  be  assured,  that  a  deranged  stomach  is  always, 
more  or  less,  accompanied  with  a  deranged  head. 

In  support  of  these  opinions  we  might  adduce  many  authorities  of 
the  highest  reputation,  but  wo  shall  content  ourselves  with  the  fol- 
lowing : — "  It  cannot  be  doubted,"  says  Dr.  Choyne,  "  that  the  clear, 
ready,  and  pleasant  exercise  of  the  intellectual  ftcultits,  and  their 
easy  and  undisturbed  application  to  any  subject,  is  never  to  be  obtain- 
ed but  by  a  free,  regular  performance  of  the  natural  functions,  which 
the  lightest  (most  digestible)  food  can  only  procure."  Again,  Dr. 
Cheyne  says,  "  he  that  would  have  a  clear  head  must  have  a  clean 
stomach.  It  is  sufficiently  manifest  how  much  uncomfortable  feelinga 
of  the  bowels  affect  the  nervous  system,  and  how  immediately  and 
completely  the  general  disorder  is  relieved  by  an  alvine  evacuation." 
Then  we  have  the  testimony  of  Abernethy,  who  says,  "we  cannot 
reasonably  expect  tranquillity  of  the  nervous  system,  whilst  there  is 


INTRODUCTORY     REMARKS.  17 

disorder  of  the  digestive  organs.  As  we  can  imbibe  no  permanent 
source  of  strength  but  from  the  digestion  of  our  food,  it  becomes  im- 
portant on  this  account,  that  we  should  attend  to  its  quantity,  quality, 
and  the  periods  of  taking  it,  with  a  view  to  ensure  its  proper  diges- 
tion." But  what  says  Dr.  Kitchiner,  who  was  an  able  physician,  and 
the  most  learned  and  scientific  writer  upon  the  culinary  art  1  "  The 
stomach,"  he  asserts,  "is  the  main-spring  of  our  system;  if  it  be  not 
sufficiently  wound  up  to  warm  and  support  the  circulation,  the  whole 
business  of  life  will,  in  proportion,  be  inefiectually  performed — we  can 
neither  think  with  precision — walk  with  vigour— sit  down  with  com- 
fort— nor  sleep  with  tranquillity.  There  would  be  no  difficulty  in 
proving,  that  it  influences  (much  more  than  people  imagine)  all  our 
actions." 

"  One  of  the  greatest,  perhaps  the  greatest,  moral  writers  of  our 
age,  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson,  was  a  man,"  says  Boswell,  "  of  very  nice 
discrimination  in  the  science  of  cookery."  He  often  remarked,  "  that 
some  people  have  a  foolish  way  of  not  minding,  or  pretending  not  to 
mind,  what  they  eat ;  for  my  part,  I  mind  my  belly  very  studiously  and 
very  carefully,  and  I  look  upon  it,  that  he  who  does  not  mind  his 
belly,  will  hardly  mind  any  thing  else."  To  this,  Kitchiner  adds, 
"the  Doctor  might  have  sa.\d,  cannot  mind  any  thing  else."  The 
energy  of  our  brains  is  sadly  dependent  on  the  behaviour  of  our 
bowels.  Those  who  say,  'tis  no  matter  what  we  eat,  or  what  we 
drink,  may  as  well  say,  'tis  no  matter  whether  we  eat,  r  r  whether  we 
drink. 

Again,  as  to  the  relative  importance  of  cookery  as  a  science.  Mr. 
Sylvester,  in  his  Domestic  Economy^  says,  that  it  is  not  difficult  to 
foresee,  that  this  department  of  philosophy  must  become  the  most 
popular  of  all  others,  because  every  class  of  human  beings  is  inter- 
ested in  its  result."  Again,  the  same  writer  says,  "  if  science  can 
really  contribute  to  the  happiness  of  mankind,  it  must  be  in  this  de- 
partment. The  real  comfort  of  the  majority  of  men  in  this  country  is 
sought  for  at  their  own  fire-sides :  how  desirable  then  it  becomes  to 
give  every  inducement  to  be  at  home,  by  directing  all  the  means  of 
philosophy  to  increase  domestic  happiness  I" 

Dr.  Waterhouse,  in  his  Lectures,  thus  speaks  of  the  stomach : — 
"  The  faculty  the  stomach  has  of  communicating  the  impressions  made 
by  the  various  substances  that  are  put  into  it  is  such,  that  it  seems 
more  like  a  nervous  expansion  from  the  brain  than  a  mere  receptacle 
for  food." 

From  allusions  in  the  great  Milton's  writings,  it  is  quite  evident, 
that  he  appreciated  the  science  of  cookery  highly.  Speaking  of  phi- 
losophy, he  says, 

"  'Tis  a  perpetual  feast  of  nectar'd  sweets, 
Where  no  crude  surfeit  reigns." 

Again, 

"  That  which  is  not  good  is  not  delicious 
To  a  well-govern'd  and  wise  appetite." 

But  we  have  better  evidence  than  these  allusions,  of  Milton's  at- 


18  T  H  E    C  O  M  P  L  E  T  E    C  O  O  K. 

tachment  to  nicely  dressed  dishes.  In  his  brother's,  the  judge's 
testimony,  in  support  of  a  nuncupative  will,  which  it  was  alleged  he 
made  before  his  death  in  favour  of  his  third  and  last  wife,  a  passage 
occurs,  to  the  effect,  that,  approving  of  his  dinner  on  a  certain  occasion, 
he  said,  "this  will  do;  get  something  nice  for  me  to  eat,  for  when  I 
am  gone  it  will  be  all  your's."  We  quote  from  memory.  The  cele- 
brated Dr.  Parr,  the  great  Grecian  and  theologian,  was  much  attached 
to  good  eating  himself,  and  thought  it  very  necessary,  both  for  the 
liealth  of  the  body  and  the  mind.  A  few  weeks  before  his  death,  for 
he  was  perfectly  conscious  that  he  had  but  a  short  time  to  live,  he 
made  arrangements  for  his  funeral ;  and,  amongst  other  things,  he 
prepared  a  bill  of  fare  for  his  funeral  dinner.  The  dishes  were  all 
cold.  He  expressed  his  regret  to  a  clerical  friend  of  ours,  that  he 
could  not  give  them  a  hot  dinner,  "but  that  is  impossible,"  he  said, 
**for  there  is  not  convenience  in  the  house  to  cook  for  so  large  a 
number.  I  am  much  afraid,"  he  continued,  "  lest  you  parsons  should 
get  a  hot  dinner  for  yourselves,  and  leave  the  poor  laymen  to  the  cold 
meat;  but  I  should  be  very  angry  if  I  could  know  it.  I  always  liked 
to  take  care  of  my  own  stomach,  and  of  other  people's.  If  that  ia 
wrong,  nothing  can  be  right." 

There  are  people  who  imagine,  that  it  is  beneath  the  dignity  of  a 
philosopher  to  trouble  himself  about  eating;  such  a  one  vi'as  that  gay 
fribble  of  a  marquis,  who,  finding  Descartes  enjoying  himself  over  a 
good  dinner,  exclaimed,  "  Hey !  what,  do  you  philosophers  eat  dain- 
ties?" "Do  you  think,"  replied  Descartes,  "that  God  made  good 
things  only  for  fools'?" 

There  is  a  point  with  regard  to  the  importance  of  good  cookery, 
upon  which  we  have  not  touched,  though  one  of  first-rate  consequence, 
namely,  temperance,  from  the  neglect  of  which  so  many,  and  such 
deadly,  evils  arise.  Let  a  man  load  his  stomach  with  crude,  indi- 
gestible food,  that  is,  ill-dressed  meats  or  other  substances,  and  what 
is  the  consequence  1  he  feels  ill — in  fact,  he  is  ill — his  mind  does  not 
possess  its  proper  vigour  and  elasticity ;  in  one  word,  the  whole  man, 
mind  and  body,  is  disordered — unhinged.  He  seeks  relief  in  spirits, 
and  he  obtains  it,  perhaps,  temporarily.  Hence  is  the  beginning  of 
dram  drinking,  and  all  its  concomitant  evils;  which  it  would  fill  a 
volume  to  enumerate.  The  members  of  temperance  societies,  and 
the  promoters  of  temperance  in  general,  would  do  well  to  turn  their 
attention  to  this  point,  and  we  think  they  will  agree  with  us  on  the 
importance  of  diffusing  the  art  of  cookery — the  art  of  preparing  good 
and  wholsome  food — as  widely  as  possible  among  the  people. 

In  this  country  we  have  the  best  of  all  descriptions  of  butcher's  meat 
in  the  world,  and,  with  a  few  exceptions,  the  worst  cooks.  If  the 
poor,  half-fed  meats  of  France,  were  dressed  as  our  cooks,  for  the  most 
part,  dress  our  well-fed  excellent  meats,  they  would  be  absolutely 
uneatable.  In  France,  the  cooks,  both  private  and  public,  contrive  to 
make  most  excellent  and  easily  digestible  food,  out  of  substances  that 
we  should  throw  away,  as  perfectly  incapable  of  being  rendered  fit  to 
eat,  or  at  least  palatable. 


INTRODUCTORY     REMARKS.  19 

It  hiiS  been  proved  by  Dr.  Prout,  that  sugar,  butler,  or  oil,  and 
white  of  egg,  or  substances  partaking-  of  their  nature,  form  the  chief 
alimentary  food  of  man.  The  saccharine,  or  sugary  principle,  in  its 
extended  sensf,  is  mostly  derived  from  vegetables.  A  proper  know- 
ledge of  these  principles  forms  the  basis,  or  foundation,  of  French 
cookery,  or,  indeed,  every  other  good  system  of  cookery.  It  does  not 
follow,  however,  that  it  is  necessary  that  a  cook  should  understand 
these  things  philosophically,  so  as  to  be  able  to  give  a  reason  for  them. 
It  is  sufficient  for  him  or  her  to  take  for  granted  the  maxims  or  rules 
that  have  been  deduced  from  them,  and  act  accordingly. 

In  France,  most  substances  intended  for  food  are  exposed,  by  means 
of  oil  or  butter,  or  grease,  in  a  frying-pan,  to  a  heat  of  600^^  Fahren- 
heit, that  is,  nearly  three  times  hotter  than  boiling  water.  This  ia 
done  by  frying,  or  by  some  other  method  similar  to  frying.  They  are 
then  put  into  a  macerating  or  stewing  vessel,  with  a  little  water,  and 
kept  for  several  hours  at  a  temperature,  or  heat,  below  the  boiling 
point;  that  is  to  say,  the  liquid  is  never  allowed  to  bubble  up,  nor  yet 
scar<;ely  to  simmer.  By  these  united  processes,  it  has  been  clearly 
proved,  that  the  most  hard  and  tough  substances,  whether  vegetable 
or  animal,  are,  more  or  less,  reduced  to  a  state  of  pulp,  fit  for  the 
action  of  the  stomach,  and  consequently  for  easy  digestion. 

In  this  country,  the  majority  of  cooks,  particularly  in  small  families, 
toss  the  meat  into  a  large  quantity  of  water,  make  the  water  boil  as 
speedily  as  possible,  and  as  fast  as  possible;  and  foolishly  imagine, 
that  it  will  be  sooner  and  better  done.  But  what  is  the  consequence? 
The  outside  of  the  meat  is  rendered  so  tough,  that  it  will  not  admit 
the  heat  to  penetrate  the  inside,  which  remains  undone,  and  the  result 
is,  that  both  the  outside  and  inside  meat  are  spoilt,  or  at  least  greatly 
damaged,  both  as  respects  flavour  and  wholesomeness.  Here  an 
anecdote  occurs  to  us,  which,  though  it  has  been  before  related,  will 
serve  to  illustrate  our  subject.  An  Irishman  was  ordered  by  hia 
master  to  boil  him  an  egg  for  his  breakfast,  and  was  particularly  en- 
joined to  boil  it  soft.  After  waiting  for  more  than  ten  minutes,  the 
master  inquired  after  his  egg^  which,  however,  was  not  forthcoming  ; 
the  servant  was  seeing  about  it.  Another  five  minutes  elapsed,  when 
the  impatient  master  was  coolly  told  his  egg  was  not  done — "Yer 
honour  told  me  to  bile  it  soft,  and  sure  I've  biled  it  a  qua  rter  of  an  houi , 
and  it  is  as  hard  as  ever." 

Our  ignorant,  and  too  often  unteachable,  cook  maid,  would  laugh 
at  the  simplicity  of  the  Irishman — not  considering  that  the  very  means 
she  uses  to  make  meat  tender  and  palatable,  that  is,  fast  boiling,  are 
just  as  absurd  as  those  taken  by  Paddy  to  boil  an  egg  soft. 

There  is  no  rule,  they  say,  without  an  exception ;  but,  generally 
speaking,  ill-dressed  meats,  or  even  solid  food  well-dressed,  taken  in 
large  quantities,  are  indigestible.  It  is  a  mistake  to  imagine,  that 
people  \yho  take  violent  exercise  in  the  open  air,  are  always  free  from 
indigestion,  and  those  numerous  diseases  to  which  it  gives  rise.  That 
they^re  not  so  liable  as  those  confined  to  a  house,  or  a  workshop  ia 
true ;  and  there  are  some  stomachs  that  appear  to  be  able  to  digest 


20  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

any  thing;  but  these  are  exceptions  to  the  general  rule — they  do  not 
aftect  the  truth  of  the  rule  itself. 


PHILOSOPHICAL  COOKERY.—COUNT  ROMFORD. 

The  first  person,  perhaps,  with  any  pretensions  to  learning  and 
philosophy,  who  studied  the  dressing  of  meat,  for  food,  as  a  science, 
was  a  gentleman  of  the  name  of  Thompson,  who  was  afterwards 
created  Count  Romford,  by  one  of  the  German  princes.  This  excel- 
lent and  ingenious  individual  lived  in  the  last  century.  He  demon- 
strated, by  experiments,  the  principles  which  in  our  foregoing  remarks 
we  have  merely  asserted.  We  are  about  to  give  an  abstract  of  some 
of  his  observations  and  experiments  on  this  subject,  which  are  so 
Bimply  and  clearly  detailed,  that  they  are  perfectly  intelligible  to 
every  common  intellect,  and  we  are  sure  will  be  read  with  interest 
and  advantage,  not  only  by  cooks,  but  also  by  all  classes  of  persons 
interested  in  the  health  and  welfare  of  society  at  large. 

The  process  by  which  food  is  most  commonly  prepared  for  the  table 
— BOILING — is  so  familiar  to  every  one,  and  its  efTeets  are  so  uniform, 
and  apparently  so  simple,  that  few  have  taken  the  trouble  to  inquire 
how,  or  in  what  manner,  these  effects  are  produced  ;  and  whether  any 
and  what  improvements  in  that  branch  of  cookery  are  possible.  So 
little  has  this  matter  been  made  an  object  of  inquiry,  that  few,  very 
few  indeed,  it  is  believed,  among  the  millions  of  'persons  who  for  so 
many  ages  have  been  daily  employed  in  this  process,  have  ever  given 
themselves  the  trouble  to  bestow  one  serious  thought  on  the  subject. 

The  cook  knows  from  experience,  that  if  his  joint  of  meat  be  kept 
a  certain  time  immersed  in  boiling  water  it  will  be  done,  as  it  is  called 
ir  -he  language  of  the  kitchen;  but  if  he  be  asked  ivhat  is  done  to  it? 
or  how,  or  by  what  agency,  the  change  it  has  undergone  has  been 
effected  ^  if  he  understands  the  question,  it  is  ten  to  one  but  he  will 
be  embarrassed ;  if  he  does  not  understand  it,  he  will  probably  an- 
swer, without  hesitation,  that  "  the  meat  is  made  tender  and  eatable 
by  being  boiled.''''  Ask  him  if  the  boiling  of  the  water  be  essentia' 
to  the  success  of  the  process  1  he  will  answer,  " without  doubt* 
Push  him  a  little  farther,  by  asking  him  whether,  were  it  possible  U 
keep  the  water  equally  hot  without  boiling,  the  meat  would  not  be 
cooked  as  soon  and  as  well,  as  if  the  water  were  made  to  boil  1  Here 
it  is  probable  that  he  will  make  the  first  step  towards  acquiring  know 
ledge,  by  learning  to  doubt. 

When  you  have  brought  him  to  see  the  matter  in  its  true  light,  ani 
to  confess,  that  in  this  view  ofit,the  subject  is  new  to  him,  you  may 
venture  to  tell  him  (and  to  prove  to  him,  if  you  happen  to  have  a  ther 
mometer  at  hand,)  that  water  which  just  boils  is  as  hot  as  it  can  pos 
sibly  be  made  in  an  open  vessel.  That  all  the  fuel  which  is  used  in 
making  it  boil  with  violence  is  wasted,  without  adding  in  the  smalle.sj 
degree  to  the  heat  of  the  water,  or  expediting  or  shortening  the  pro- 
cesf^ofcookinga  single  instant:  that  it  is  by  the  heat — i\fi  intensity — and 
the  time  of  its  duration,  that  the  food  is  cooked ;  and  not  by  boiling 


PHILOSOPHICAL      COOKERY.  21 

or  ebullition  or  bubbling  up  of  the  water,  which  has  no  part  whatever 
in  that  operation. 

Should  any  doubts  still  remain  with  respect  to  the  inefficacy  and 
inutility  of  boiling,  in  culinary  processes,  where  the  same  degree  of 
heat  may  be  had,  and  be  kept  up  without  it,  let  a  piece  of  meat  be 
cooked  in  a  Papin's  digester,  which,  as  is  well  known,  is  a  boiler 
whose  cover  (which  is  fastened  down  with  screws)  shuts  with  so 
much  nicety  that  no  steam  can  escape  out  of  it.  In  such  a  closed 
vessel,  boiling  (which  is  nothing  else  but  the  escape  of  steam  in  bub- 
bles from  the  hot  liquid)  is  absolutely  impossible;  yet,  if  the  heat  ap- 
plied to  the  digester  be  such  as  would  cause  an  equal  quantity  of  water 
in  an  open  vessel  to  boil,  the  m.eat  will  not  only  be  done,  but  it  will 
be  found  to  be  dressed  in  a  shorter  time,  and  to  be  much  tenderer, 
than  if  it  had  been  boiled  in  an  open  boiler.  By  applying  a  still 
greater  degree  of  heat  to  the  digester,  the  meat  may  be  so  much 
done  in  a  very  few  minutes  as  actually  to  fall  to  pieces,  and  even  tha 
very  bones  may  be  made  soft. 

Were  it  a  question  of  mere  idle  curiosity,  whether  it  be  the  boiling 
of  water,  or  simply  the  degree  of  heat  that  exists  in  boiling  water  by 
which  food  is  cooked,  it  would  doubtless  be  folly  to  throw  away  time 
in  its  investigation ;  but  this  is  far  from  being  the  case,  for  boiling 
cannot  be  carried  on  without  a  very  great  expense  of  fuel ;  but  any 
boiling  hot  liquid  (by  using  proper  means  for  confining  the  heat)  may 
be  kept  boiling  hot  for  any  length  of  time,  without  any  expense  of 
fuel  at  all. 

The  waste  of  fuel  in  culinary  processes,  which  arises  from  making 
liquids  boil  unnecessarily,  or  when  nothing  more  would  be  necessary 
than  to  keep  them  boiling  hot,  is  enormous ;  there  is  not  a  doubt  but 
that  much  more  than  half  the  fuel  used  in  all  the  kitchens,  public  and 
private,  io  the  whole  world,  is  wasted  precisely  in  this  manner. 

But  the  evil  does  not  stop  here.  This  unscientific  and  slovenly 
manner  of  cooking  renders  the  process  much  more  laborious  and  trou- 
blesome than  otherwise  it  would  be ;  and  (what  by  many  will  be  con- 
sidered of  more  importance  than  either  the  waste  of  fuel,  or  the 
increase  of  labour  to  tiiO  cook)  the  food  is  rendered  less  savoury,  and 
very  probably  less  nourishing,  and  certainly  less  wholesome. 

It  is  natural  to  suppose  that  many  of  the  fiiner  and  more  volatile 
parts  of  food  (those  which  are  best  calculated  to  act  on  the  organs  of 
taste)  must  be  carried  off  with  the  steam,  when  the  boiling  is  violent : 
but  the  fact  does  not  rest  on  these  reasonings :  it  is  proved  to  a  de- 
monstration, not  only  by  the  agreeable  fragrance  of  the  steam  that 
rises  from  vessels  in  which  meat  is  boiled,  but  also  from  the  strong 
flavour  and  superior  quality  of  soups  which  are  prepared  by  a  long 
process  over  a  very  slow,  gentle  fire.  But  the  volatile  parts  of  food 
are  not  only  delightful  to  the  organs  of  taste — the  Editor  has  no  doubt 
that  they  are  also  stimulating  and  refreshing  to  the  stomach. 

In  many  countries  where  soups  constitute  the  principal  part  of  the 
food  of  the  inhabitants,  the  process  of  cooking  lasts  from  oi^e  meal  time 
to  another,  and  is  performed  almost  without  either  trouble  or  expense. 


22  THE    COMPLETE     COOK. 

As  soon  as  the  soup  is  served  up,  the  ingredients  for  the  next  meal 
are  put  into  the  pot  (which  is  never  suffered  to  cool,  and  does  not  re- 
quire scouring;)  and  this  pot,  which  is  of  cast  iron,  or  of  earthenware, 
being  well  closed  with  its  thick  wooden  cover,  is  placed  hy  the  side 
of  the  Jire,  where  its  contents  are  kept  simmering  for  many  hours, 
but  are  seldom  made  to  boil,  and  never  but  in  the  gentlest  manner 
possible. 

Were  the  pot  put  in  a  close  fire-place  (which  might  easily  be  con- 
structed, even  with  the  rudest  materials,  with  a  few  bricks  or  stone, 
or  even  with  sods,  like  a  camp-kitchen,)  no  arrangement  for  cooking 
could  well  be  imagined  more  economical  or  more  convenient. 

Soups  prepared  in  this  way  are  uncommonly  savoury,  and  there  is 
little  doubt  that  the  true  reason  why  nourishing  soups  and  broths  are 
not  more  in  use  among  the  common  people  in  most  countries,  is 
because  they  do  not  know  how  good  they  really  are,  nor  how  to 
prepare  them  \  in  short  because  they  are  not  acquainted  with  them. 
There  is  another  important  reason  which  the  Editor  must  add — the 
common  people  for  the  most  part  cannot  spare  time  from  their  labour 
to  stay  at  home  and  attend  to  them. 

To  form  a  just  idea  of  the  enormous  waste  of  fuel  that  arises  from 
making  water  boil  and  ei;«j?ora^e  unnecessarily  in  culinary  processes^ 
we  have  only  to  consider  how  much  heat  is  expended  in  the  forma 
lion  of  steam.  Now  it  has  been  proved  by  the  most  decisive  and  un 
exceptionable  experiments  that  have  ever  been  made  by  experimental 
philosophers,  that  if  it  were  possible  that  the  heat  which  actually 
combines  with  water,  in  forming  steam  (and  which  gives  it  wings  to 
fly  up  into  the  atmosphere,)  could  exist  in  the  water,  without  changing 
it  from  a  dense  liquid  to  a  rare  elastic  vapour,  this  water  would  ba 
neated  by  it  to  the  temperature  of  red-hot  iron. 

Many  kinds  of  food  are  known  to  be  most  delicate  and  savoury  when 
cooked  in  a  degree  of  heat  considerably  below  that  of  boiling  water; 
and  it  is  more  than  probable  that  there  are  others  which  would  be  im- 
proved by  being  exposed  to  a  heat  greater  than  that  of  boiling  water. 

In  many  of  the  seaport  tov^^ns  of  our  New  England  States,  it 
has  been  a  custom,  time  immemorial,  among  people  of  fashion,  to 
dine  one  day  in  the  week  (Saturday)  on  salt  fish,  and  a  long  habit 
of  preparing  the  same  dish  has,  as  might  have  been  expected,  led  to 
very  considerable  improvements  in  the  art  of  cooking  it.  We  have 
often  heard  foreigners  who  have  partaken  of  these  dinners,  declare 
that  they  never  tasted  salt  fish  dressed  in  such  perfection.  The  se- 
cret of  this  cooking  is  to  keep  the  fish  a  great  many  hours  in  water, 
which  is  just  scalding  hot,  but  which  is  never  made  actually  to  boil. 

The  Count  being  desirous  of  finding  out  whether  it  was  possible  to 
roast  meat  with  a  much  gentler  heat  than  that  usually  employed,  put 
a  shoulder  of  mutton  in  a  machine  contrived  for  drying  potatoes:  tho 
result,  which  we  give  in  the  Count's  own  words,  was  as  follows : 

"After  trying  the  experiment  for  three  hours,  and  finding  it  showed 
no  signs  of  being  done,  it  was  concluded  that  the  heat  was  not  suffi- 
ciently intense,  and,  despairing  of  success,  it  was  abandoned  to  tho 
cookmaids. 


PHILOSOrillCAL     COOKERY.  23 

"It  beinjT  late  in  the  evening,  and  the  cookmaids  thinking-,  per* 
haps,  that  the  meat  would  be  as  safe  in  the  drying  machine  as  any 
where  else,  left  it  there  all  night;  when  they  came  in  the  morning 
to  take  it  away,  intending  to  cook  it  for  their  dinner,  they  were  much 
surprised  to  find  it  already  cooked^  and  not  merely  eatable,  but  per- 
fectly done,  and  most  singularly  well  tasted.  This  appeared  to  them 
the  more  miraculous,  as  the  fire  under  the  machine  was  quite  gone 
out  before  they  left  the  kitchen  in  the  evening  to  go  to  bed,  and  as 
they  had  locked  up  the  kitchen  when  they  left  it  and  taken  the  key. 

This  wonderful  shoulder  of  mutton  was  immediately  brought  in  tri- 
umph, and  though  we  were  at  no  great  loss  to  account  for  what  had 
happened,  yet  it  certainly  was  unexpected  :  and  when  the  meat  was 
tasted  we  were  much  surprised  indeed  to  find  it  very  different,  both 
in  taste  and  flavour,  from  any  we  had  ever  tasted.  It  was  perfectly 
tender,  but  though  it  was  so  much  done  it  did  not  appear  to  be  in  the 
least  sodden  or  insipid ;  on  the  contrary,  it  was  uncommonly  savoury 
and  high-flavoured.  It  was  neither  boiled,  nor  roasted,  nor  baked. 
Its  taste  seemed  to  indicate  the  manner  in  which  it  had  been  pre- 
pared :  that  the  gentle  heat  to  w^hich  it  had  for  so  long  a  time  been 
exposed,  had  by  degrees  loosened  the  cohesion  of  its  fibres,  and  con- 
cocted its  juices,  without  driving  off"  their  fine  and  more  volatile  parts, 
and  without  washing  away  or  burning  and  rendering  rancid  its  oils." 

Having  given  an  abstract  of  Romford's  opinions  and  experiments 
on  boiling  water  as  a  medium  for  the  preparation  of  meat  for  the  food 
of  man,  we  shall  now  take  an  opportunity  of  remarking,  that  the  same 
rule  will  not  apply  to  the  cooking  of  the  greater  part  of  vegetables, 
which  must  be  put  into  the  water  boiling  hot,  and  which  cannot  be 
boiled  too  quickly.  This  does  not  apply,  however,  to  potatoes,  which 
cannot  be' boiled  too  slowly.  These  things,  however,  will  be  treated 
of  more  particularly  in  the  receipts,  which  we  shall  give  for  the 
cookingof  different  kinds  of  vegetables. 

Seasoning  is  a  very  important  element  in  the  art  of  cookery.  Ex- 
perience is  absolutely  necessary  to  acquire  this  art,  which  to  be  pro- 
perly done,  requires  great  judgment  and  delicacy  of  taste.  All  the 
recommendations  of  Dr.  Kitchiner  and  others  to  season  by  weight  and 
measure,  as  apothecffries  serve  out  drugs,  are  in  the  nature  of  the 
thing  impracticable.  "What's  one  man's  meat  is  another  man's 
poison,"  is  a  homely  proverb,  but  a  true  one.  So  in  seasoning,  what 
one  person  likes,  another  may  dislike.  The  writers  we  have  alluded 
to  ridicule  the  idea  of  directing  the  cook  to  use  a  pinch  of  that,  and  a 
dust  of  the  other.  M.  Ude  justly  observes,  "  that  where  the  quantities 
are  indefinite,  it  is  impossible  to  adjust  the  exact  proportions  of  spice, 
or  other  condiments,  which  it  v^ill  be  necessary  to  add  in  order  to 
give  the  proper  flavour."  If  these  remarks  are  correct,  and  who  can 
doubt  it,  the  general  terms  "  handful,  pinch,  and  dust,"  are  the  best 
that  can  be  applied  as  directions  upon  such  a  subject. 

In  the  use  of  salt  in  cooking,  considerable  judgment  is  required. 
The  best  rule  is  to  employ  as  little  as  possible.  It  is  easy  to  make 
a  dish  too  fresh,  salt ;  but  if  made  too  salt,  it  cannot  be  made  fresh 


24  THECOMPIiETECOOK. 

again.  Sugar  may  be  applied  with  advantage  in  various  dishes, 
where  it  is  not  generally  used  in  this  country,  and  which  will  be 
enumerated  hereafter,  but  great  care  must  be  taken,  that  in  such  pre- 
parations it  should  be  employed  to  enrich,  not  to  sweeten.  The  taste 
of  sugar  should  not  predominate,  or  even  be  recognised.  We  allude 
more  particularly  to  soups  and  gravies,  and  in  some  cases  in  vegeta- 
bles, such  as  green  peas  for  instance.  Meat  intended  to  be  broiled, 
or  fried,  should  be  well  peppered,  but  never  salted ;  salt  renders  it 
hard.  The  author  of  "Domestic  Cookery"  says,  that  "salt  should 
not  be  put  into  the  water  in  which  vegetables  are  boiled."  We  dis- 
agree with  this  lady ;  indeed,  she  disagrees  with  herself;  for  in 
another  part  of  her  book  she  directs  salt  to  be  put  into  the  water  in 
which  potatoes  are  to  be  boiled ;  and  we  are  quite  sure  it  is  very 
necessary  in  boiling  cabbage,  savoys,  and  most  other  descriptions  of 
greens. 

It  ought  to  be  well  understood,  that  pepper  and  all  descriptions  of 
spice  require  to  be  subjected  to  the  action  of  heat  to  bring  out  their 
genuine  flavour.  Thus  it  will  be  seen,  that  though  it  is  very  prac- 
ticable to  sweeten  or  salt  things  after  they  are  dressed,  it  is  not  so  aa 
respects  flavouring  them  with  spice.  In  the  use  of  spices  it  is,  how- 
ever, very  important  to  take  care  that  the  aroma  (commonly  called 
smell),  which  they  give  forth,  should  not  be  allowed  to  evaporate  or 
escape.  Druggists  and  medical  men  always  keep  their  essential  oils, 
tinctures,  volatile  spirits  and  volatile  gums,  in  ground  stopper  bottles, 
which  are  perfectly  air-tight.  This  puts  us  in  mind  of  a  foolish  cus- 
tom, which  cannot  be  too  much  deprecated,  of  exposing  in  the  open 
air  aromatic  herbs,  such  as  marjoram,  thyme,  mint,  and  several 
otliers,  which  are  known  by  the  general  term  of  sweet  herbs,  and 
which  are  extensively  used  in  seasoning.  These  herbs  ought  always 
to  bo  kept  as  much  as  possible  excluded  from  the  air.  This  may  be 
partially  effected  by  tying  the  dried  herbs  in  paper  bags,  but  it  is 
much  better  to  reduce  the  leaves  to  a  coarse  powder,  and  confine  it 
in  well-corked  bottles. 


RULES  AND   MAXIMS  OF  THE  .KITCHEN. 

In  our  foregoing  remarks  we  have  endeavoured  to  explain  the 
leading  principles  upon  which  the  art  of  cookery  is  founded — princi- 
ples with  which  the  young  cook  should  become  thoroughly  acquainted. 
We  now  proceed  to  lay  down  a  series  of  rules  or  maxims,  relative  to 
the  dressing  of  meat,  and  the  general  management  of  the  kitchen. 
These  rules  should  be  well  studied,  and  the  most  important  of  tiiem 
committed  to  memory.  By  doing  this  a  cook  will  save  a  great  deal 
of  trouble  and  loss  of  time,  and  she  will  also,  by  her  knowledge  of  the 
general  principles  of  the  art,  be  enabled  to  vary,  and  probably  nn- 
prove  the  receipts,  which  she  may  have  occasion  to  consult.  In  short, 
when  she  knows  what  must  be  always  done,  and  what  must  nevei  be 
done,  she  is,  in  a  great  measure,  mistress  of  her  art,  inasmuch  as  iho 
details  will  be  easily  ac(iuirod  by  practice. 


RULES    OF     THE     KITCHEN.  25 

WHAT   MUST    ALWAYS    BE    DONE,    AND    WHAT    MUST 
NEVER  BE  DONE. 

1.  Keep  yourself  clean  and  tidy ;  let  your  hands,  in  particular,  he 
always  clean  whenever  it  is  practicable.  After  a  dirty  job  always 
wash  them.  A  cleanly  cook  must  wash  her  hands  many  times  in  the 
course  of  the  day,  and  will  require  three  or  four  aprons  appropriated 
to  the  work  upon  which  she  is  employed.  Your  hair  must  never  be 
blowsy,  nor  your  cap  dirty. 

2.  Keep  apart  things  that  would  injure  each  other,  or  destroy  their 
flavour. 

3.  Keep  every  cloth,  saucepan  and  all  other  utensils  to  their  pro- 
per use,  and  when  done  with,  put  them  in  their  proper  places. 

4.  Keep  every  copper  stewpan  and  saucepan  bright  without,  and 
perfectly  clean  within,  and  take  care  that  they  are  always  well 
tinned.  Keep  all  your  dish-covers  well  dried,  and  polished  ;  and  to 
effect  tiiis,  it  will  be  necessary  to  wash  them  in  scalding  water  as 
soon  as  removed  from  the  table,  and  when  these  things  are  done  let 
them  be  hung  up  in  their  proper  places. 

5.  The  gridiron,  frying-pan,  spit,  dripping-pan,  &c.,  must  be  per- 
fectly cleaned  of  grease  and  dried  before  they  are  put  in  their  proper 
places. 

6.  Attention  should  be  paid  to  things  that  do  not  meet  the  sight  in 
the  way  that  tins  and  copper  vessels  do.  Let,  for  instance,  the  pud- 
ding cloth,  the  dish-cloth,  and  the  dish-tub,  be  always  kept  perfectly 
clean.  To  these  may  be  added,  the  sieve,  the  cullender,  the  jelly- 
bag,  &,c.,  which  ought  always  to  be  washed  as  soon  after  they  are 
used  as  may  be  practicable. 

7.  Scour  your  rolling-pin  and  paste-board  as  soon  after  using  as 
possible,  but  without  soap,  or  any  gritty  substance,  such  as  sand  or 
brick-dust;  put  them  away  perfectly  dry. 

8.  Scour  your  pickle  and  preserve  jars  after  they  are  emptied ; 
dry  them  and  put  them  away  in  a  dry  place. 

9.  Wipe  your  bread  and  cheese-pan  out  daily  with  a  dry  cloth,  and 
scald  them  once  a  week.  Scald  your  salt-pan  when  out  of  use,  and 
dry  it  thoroughly.  Scour  the  lid  well  by  which  it  is  covered  when 
in  use. 

10.  Mind  and  put  all  things  in  their  proper  places,  and  then  you 
fi'ill  easily  find  them  when  they  are  wanted* 

11.  You  must  not  poke  things  out  of  sight  instead  of  cleaning 
Ihem,  and  such  things  as  onions,  garlick,  &,c.,  must  not  be  cut  with 
the  same  knife  as  is  used  in  cutting  meat,  bread,  butter,  &:.c.  Milk 
must  not  be  put  in  a  vessel  used  for  greasy  purposes,  nor  must  clear 
liquids,  such  as  water,  &c.,  be  put  into  vessels,  which  have  been 
used  for  milk,  and  not  washed;  in  short,  no  vessel  must  be  used  for 
any  purpose  for  which  it  is  not  appropriated. 

12.  You  must  not  suffer  any  kind  of  food  to  become  cold  in  any 
metal  vessel,  not  even  in  well-tinned  iron  saucepans,  &c.,  for  they 
will  impart  a  more  or  less  unpleasant  flavour  to  it.     Above  all  things 

2* 


36  THE    COMPLETE     COOK. 

you  must  not  let  liquid  food,  or  indeed  any  other,  remain  in  brass  or 
copper  vessels  after  it  is  cooked.  The  rust  of  copper  or  brass  is 
absolutely  poisonous,  and  this  will  be  always  produced  by  moisture 
and  exposure  to  the  air.  The  deaths  of  many  persons  have  been 
occasioned  by  the  cook  not  attending  to  this  rule. 

13.  You  must  not  throw  away  the  fat  which,  when  cold,  accumu- 
lates on  the  top  of  liquors  in  which  fresh  or  salt  meat  has  been  boiled; 
in  short,  you  ought  not  to  waste  fat  of  any  description,  or  any  thin^, 
else,  that  may  be  turned  to  account;  such  as  marrow-bones,  or  any 
other  clean  bones  from  which  food  may  be  extracted  in  the  way  of 
Boup,  broth,  or  stock,  or  in  any  other  way :  for  if  such  food  will  not 
suit  your  table,  it  will  suit  the  table  of  the  poor.  Remember,  "Wil- 
ful waste  makes  woful  want." 

14.  A  very  essential  requisite  in  a  cook  is  punctuality:  therefore 
rise  early,  and  get  your  orders  from  your  mistress  as  early  as  possible, 
and  make  your  arrangements  accordingly.  What  can  be  prepared 
before  the  business  of  roasting  and  boiling  commences  should  always 
be  prepared. 

15.  Do  not  do  your  dirty  work  at  a  dresser  set  apart  for  cleanly 
preparations.  Take  care  to  have  plenty  of  kitchen  cloths,  and  mark 
them  so  as  a  duster  may  not  be  mistaken  for  a  pudding-cloth,  or  a 
knife-cloth  for  a  towel. 

16.  Keep  your  spit,  if  you  use  one,  always  free  from  rust  and  dust, 
and  your  vertical  jack  clean.  Never  draw  up  your  jack  with  a  weight 
upon  it. 

17.  Never  employ,  even  if  permitted  to  do  so,  any  knives,  spoons, 
dishes,  cups,  or  any  other  articles  in  the  kitchen,  which  are  used  in 
the  dining  room.  Spoons  are  sure  to  get  scratched,  and  a  knife  used 
for  preparing  an  onion,  takes  up  its  flavour,  which  two  or  three 
cleanings  will  not  entirely  take  away. 

18.  Take  great  care  to  prevent  aL  preparations  which  are  delicate 
in  their  nature,  such  as  custards,  blancmange,  dressed  milks,  &c.,  Sic, 
from  burning  to  which  they  are  very  liable.  The  surest  way  to  ef- 
fectually hinder  this  is  to  boil  them  as  the  carpenter  heats  his  glue, 
that  is,  by  having  an  outside  vessel  filled  with  water. 

19.  You  ought  not  to  do  any  thing  by  halves.  What  you  do,  do  well. 
If  you  clean,  clean  thoroughly,  having  nothing  to  do  with  the  "slut's 
wipe,"  and  the  "  lick  and  a  promise." 

20.  And  last,  though  not  leasts  be  teachable :  be  always  desirous  to 
learn — never  be  ashamed  to  ask  for  information,  lest  you  should  ap- 
pear to  be  ignorant ;  for  be  assured,  the  most  ignorant  are  too  fre- 
quently the  most  self-opinionated  and  most  conceited ;  while  those 
who  are  really  well  informed,  think  humbly  of  themselves,  and  regret 
that  they  know  so  little. 

CHOICE  AND  PURCHASING  OF  BUTCHERS^  MEAT. 

Inferior  joints  of  the  best  animals  should  always  be  preferred  to  the 
prime  joints  of  the  ill-fed  or  diseased  beasts.     Inferior  joints  of  good 


CHOICE     OP     BUTC  hers'    MEAT.  27 

meat  such  as  stickins^s,  legs  and  shins  of  beef,  shoulders  of  muttoa 
and  veal,  may,  if  well  dressed,  be  made  as  nourishing  and  palatable 
as  the  superior  joints,  and  may  be  bought  much  cheaper ;  but  no  cooking, 
however  well  executed,  will  ever  make  bad  meat  good.  Ill-condi 
tioned  beasts,  too,  are  for  the  most  part  unhealthy. 

21.  Beef. — Ox  beef  is  considered,  truly,  the  best.'  Bull  beef  is 
coarse,  tough,  and  has  a  strong,  disagreeable  smell  and  taste.  Next 
to  ox  beef,  that  of  a  young  heifer  (if  spayed  the  better)  is  preferred. 
Some  persons,  indeed,  think  it  is  the  best.  It  is  the  most  delicate 
and  tender  of  all  description  of  beef.  Cow  beef,  particularly  a  young 
cow  that  has  not  had  more  than  two  or  three  calves,  is  very  good. 
The  grain  is  closer,  and  the  fat  whiter,  than  ox  beef.  Good  beef  has 
a  fine,  smooth,  open  grain,  interlarded  with  thin  streaks  of  delicate 
fat;  and  is  of  a  deep  healthy  looking  red  colour.  When  the  fat  is  of 
a  dirty  yellow  colour,  the  meat  is  not  good :  it  indicates  its  having 
been  fed  upon  artificial  food,  such  as  oil  cake.  Grass-fed  meat,  or 
that  fed  upon  hay  and  corn  meal,  is  the  best.  When  beef  is  old,  a 
horny  streak  runs  between  the  fat  and  lean ;  the  harder  this  is,  the 
older  the  meat.     The  flesh  is  not  good  flavoured,  and  eats  tough. 

22.  Mutton. — Good  mutton  is  firm  in  the  grain ;  of  a  bright  red 
colour;  the  lean  delicately  interlarded  with  thin  streaks  of  fat;  the 
fat  itself  being  of  a  brightish  white,  tinted  with  a  delicate  pink.  The 
fat  of  rotten  mutton,  in  which  the  sheep  was  afliicted  with  a  liver 
disease,  is  always  of  a  dead  white,  and  the  flesh  is  of  a  pale  colour. 
Such  mutton  is  both  unwholesome  and  unsavoury.  The  best  way  to 
detect  this  kind  of  mutton,  is  to  examine  the  liver  before  it  is  re- 
moved from  the  sheep.  If  the  liver  be  without  bladders,  or  other 
marks  of  disease,  the  mutton  is  sound.  Ewe  mutton  is  not  so  good  aa 
wether  mutton;  the  flesh  is  generally  paler,  and  the  texture  finer. 
The  best  mutton  is  that  which  is  fed  upon  the  natural  grasses.  This 
is  the  reason  why  the  Welsh  and  mountain  Scotch  muttons  are  so 
firm,  short,  and  sweet.  The  sheep  have  liberty  to  choose  their  own 
food.  Mutton  fed  on  rape  and  turnips  does  not  eat  so  well,  nor  near 
BO  well,  as  the  grass-fed.  Ram  mutton  has  a  strong,  and,  in  some 
seasons  of  the  year,  an  exceedingly  disagreeable  flavour.  It  is  said 
that  wether  mutton,  to  be  eaten  in  perfection,  should  be  five  years 
old ;  but  it  is  scarcely  ever  kept  to  that  age.  In  wether  mutton  there 
is  a  knob  of  fat  on  the  part  of  the  leg,  where  in  the  ewe  you  will  find 
a  part  of  the  udder. 

23.  Venison  when  young  has  the  cleft  of  the  haunch  smooth  and 
close,  and  the  fat  is  clear,  bright  and  thick.  In  old  venison,  the  cleft 
is  wide  and  tough.  If,  after  running  a  long,  narrow,  sharp  knife  into 
the  lean  of  venison,  it  comes  out  without  smelling,  the  venison  is 
sweet.  Some  persons  like  it  a  little  gone,  and  others  a  good  deal. 
This  state  of  putrescency  is  called  by  gourmands  haul  gout,  high 
tasted  ;  we  should  rather  say  at  once,  stinking.  Venison  requires 
more  keeping  than  any  other  sort  of  meat  to  make  it  tender,  unless  it 
be  dressed  immediately  it  is  killed,  that  is,  before  it  is  cold. 

24.  Veal. — Tins  meat,  to  be  truly  good,  delicate,  fine  flavoured,  and 


28  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

tender,  ought  not  to  be  more  than  five  or  six  weeks  old,  and,  of 
course,  fed  exclusively  upon  the  milk  of  the  mother.  Writers  on 
cookery  gravely  tell  us,  that  the  whiteness  of  veal  is  partly  caused 
by  the  calf  licking  chalk.  This  is  .nonsense.  The  chalk  is  given  to 
prevent  calves  from  scouring,  not  to  make  their  flesh  white.  However, 
whiteness  is  no  proof  of  veal  being  good  and  juicy;  it  is  caused  by 
frequent  bleeding.  The  flesh  of  the  bull  calf  is  said  to  be  the  firmest, 
but  not  so  white.  The  fillet  of  the  cow  calf  is  sometimes  preferred 
for  the  udder.  The  kidney  of  good  veal  is  well  covered  with  healthy 
looking  fat,  thick  and  firm.  The  bloody  vein  in  the  shoulder  should 
look  blue  ;  if  it  be  of  any  other  colour,  the  meat  is  stale.  Fresh  veal 
is  dry  and  white.  When  it  is  spotty  and  clammy  it  is  stale.  The 
kidney  is  gone  when  the  fat  or  suet  upon  it  is  not  firm.  The  kidney 
goes  first. 

25.  Lamb  that  is  fresh  will  have  the  veins  bluish  in  the  neck  and 
fore-quarter.  If  there  be  a  faint  smell  under  the  kidney  it  is  not 
fresh.  When  the  eyes  are  sunk  in  the  head,  it  is  a  sure  sign  the  lamb 
has  been  killed  too  long.  Grass  lamb,  which  is  the  only  lamb  that  is 
in  perfection,  comes  in  in  April,  but  it  is  better  in  May  and  June ;  that 
is  to  say,  when  men  with  hard  hands  can  afford  to  eat  it,  and  when 
there  are  green  peas  to  eat  with  it.  House  lamb,  for  those  who  can 
afford  to  pay  for  it,  and  like  to  eat  it,  may  be  obtained  all  the  year 
round. 

26.  Pork. — The  quality  of  this  kind  of  meat  depends  in  a  great 
measure  upon  its  feeding.  If  grossly  fed,  it  is  bad,  for  the  pig  will 
eat  any  thing  in  the  absence  of  delicate  food.  Dairy-fed  pork  we  are 
told  is  the  best:  it  is  good,  but  we  think  not  the  best.  To  our  taste, 
that  is  to  be  preferred  in  every  respect  which  is  fed  not  merely  on 
dairy  food,  but  upon  good  wholesome  corn  meal,  whether  of  barley, 
oats,  peas,  or  beans.  Cookery  writers  tell  us,  that  "if  the  rind  is 
tough,  and  cannot  easily  be  impressed  by  the  finger,  the  meat  is  old  ;" 
and  they  add,  that  a  thin  rind  is  a  merit  in  all  pork."  These  direc- 
tions are  no  guide  whatever  to  the  choice  of  pork :  the  rind  may  be 
made  thin  by  dressing,  but  there  are  those,  and  no  bad  judges  either, 
who  prefer  thick  rinds.  Moubray,  on  Poultry,  &c.,  says^"  the  west- 
ern pigs  from  Berks,  Oxford,  and  Bucks,  possess  a  decided  superiority 
over  the  eastern  of  Essex,  Sussex,  and  Norfolk  ;  not  to  forget  another 
qualification  of  the  former,  at  which  some  readers  may  smile,  a  thick- 
ness of  the  skin,  whence  the  crackling  of  the  roasted  pig  is  a  fine 
gelatinous  substance,  which  may  be  easily  masticated,  whilst  the 
crackling  of  the  thin-skinned  breeds  is  roasted  into  good  block  tin, 
the  reduction  of  which  would  almost  require  teeth  of  iron."  So  much 
for  thin  rinds.  When  pork  is  fresh,  the  flesh  will  be  smooth  and  dry ; 
when  stale,  clammy.  What  is  called  measly  pork  is  to  be  avoided 
as  a  poison.  It  may  be  known  by  the  fat  being  full  of  kernels,  and 
by  the  general  unwholesomeness  of  its  appearance. 

27.  Bacon  is  good  when  the  fat  is  almost  transparent  and  of  a  de- 
licate transparent  pink  tinge.  The  lean  should  adhere  to  the  bone, 
be  of  a  good  colour,  and  tender.    Yellow  streaks  in  bacon  show  it  is 


CHOICE     OF     POULTRY,    EGGS,    FISH,    i&C.    29 

becoming  rusty ;  when  all  is  yellow,  all  is  rusty  and  unfit  to  eat. 
Bacon  and  hams  are  frequently  spoilt  in  the  curing.  Taste  a  little 
of  the  lean,  and  you  will  be  able  to  judge  whether  it  be  too  salt  or 
not. 

28.  Hams  are  the  best  part  of  the  pig  when  properly  cured,  per- 
fectly sweet,  and  not  too  salt.  To  ascertain  whether  a  ham  is  tainted, 
run  a  sharp  knife  under  the  bone,  and  if  it  comes  out  with  a  pleasant 
smell,  and  clean,  the  ham  is  good. 

Summary  of  Directions. — Choose  meat  that  has  a  clear  red  liver, 
free  from  knots  and  bladders,  with  kidneys  firm,  close,  and  well  sur- 
rounded with  firm,  hard  fat ;  the  skirts  which  line  the  ribs  should  bo 
full  and  fat.  Meat  possessing  these  qualifications  may  be  depended 
on  as  of  the  first  quality ;  but  if  the  kidney  or  kernels  of  an  animal 
have  spots  resembling  measles,  as  is  too  frequently  the  case  with 
pork,  the  meat  is  unwholesome. 

We  have  said  thus  much  on  the  choice  of  meats,  but  persons  who 
keep  up  what  is  called  an  establishment,  will  do  best  to  trust  to  their 
butcher,  porkman,  fishmonger,  and  poulterer,  and  not  to  choose  at  all, 
excepting  tradesmen,  taking  care  to  deal  only  with  the  most  respect- 
able in  the  neighbourhood. 

CHOICE  OF  POULTRY,  EGGS,  AND  FISH,  AND  SEASONS 
OF  FISH.  ^^. 

Povltry  of  all  kinds  are  preferred  of  a  short  thick  maW?*broad  and 
plump  in  the  breast  and  thick  in  the  rump  and  fat  in  the  back.  The 
epurs  should  be  short  as  indicating  youth,  and  the  comb  red  as  indi- 
cating health.  The  beak,  bill,  and  claws,  in  a  young  bird  will  be 
tender,  and  the  skin  of  the  legs  comparatively  smooth ;  the  contrary 
are  certain  indications  of  an  old  bird.  But  the  best  test  of  a  fowl,  as 
respects  its  age,  is  to  try  the  two  bones  which  run  by  the  side  fef  the 
belly  to  the  vent ;  if  these  are  gristly  and  easily  broken  at  th6^  end, 
the  fowl  is  young.  To  judge  of  the  age  of  geese  or  ducks,  IJltle.or 
no  dependence  is  to  be  placed  upon  the  colour  of  the  legs  and  bills — 
this  varies  according  to  complexion ;  but  if  the  bills  and  feet 
coarse  red  streaks,  or  a  tinge  of  red  in  them,  the  bird  is  old.  In  yoi 
geese  and  ducks  the  above  marks  are  not  to  be  seen,  and  the  wel 
will  be  smooth  and  thin. 

29.  Rabbits,  young  and  in  good  condition,  will  be  fat  about  the 
kidneys,  and  by  the  side  of  the  belly.  The  flesh  should  be  white, 
and  if  young,  the  legs  will  break  easily. 

30.  Fowls  are  plentiful  from  August  to  January ;  chickens  come 
in  about  April,  tame  ducks  in  May,  continue  through  the  summer 
months,  and  go  out  in  October.  Young  geese  may  be  dressed  in  the 
latter  end  of  May  and  through  the  summer,  but  a  goose  is  not 
thoroughly  ripe  till  after  stubbling,  that  is,  about  Michaelmas.  Tur- 
key poults  are  in  season  from  May  onwards,  but  turkeys  are  in  high 
season  about  Christmas. 

31.  Rabbits  and  Pigeons  may  be  had  the  year  round ;  wild  rab 


30  THECOMPLETECOOK. 

bits  are  best  in  the  winter  season ;  young-  pigeons  may  be  had  in 
February,  and  till  September;  wood-pigeons  in  December  and 
January. 

32.  Game.  —  Hares,  partridges  and  pheasants  from  September 
through  the  winter:  the  game  season  closes  with  February.  All 
kinds  of  water-fowl  are  most  plentiful  in  keen,  dry  weather,  especially 
V  cold 'weather,  after  snow;  also  larks,  wood-cocks,  snipes,  &,c. 

33.  Eggs. — New  eggs  have  always  a  rough  fresh-looking  shell, 
but  this  appearance  may  be  effected  by  artificial  means,  and  the 
purchaser  be  cheated  with  rotten  ones,  instead  of  getting  fresh.  A 
new-laid  egg  will  sink  in  water,  bad  ones  are  more  or  less  buoyant; 
but  tiiis  is  a  tedious  way  of  testing  eggs.  Th6  best  way  is  to  form  a 
6ort  of  tube  with  the  left  hand,  holding  with  the  right  hand  the  figg, 
close  and  opposite  to  this  tube,  in  the  light.  If  the  egg  is  good  the 
meat  will  look  clear,  and  partly  transparent;  if  bad,  it  will  look  dark 
with  black  spots  in  it. 

34.  Fish  should  be  broad  and  thick  of  their  kind,  their  eyes  bright, 
gills  red,  and  the  scales  close  and  shining:  fish  should  feel  firm  to 
the  touch  and  stiff.  Stale  fish  have  always  a  loose,  limber  feel, 
especially  about  the  vent;  their  eyes  are  sunk  and  dim,  the  scales 
loose  and  flabby,  and  the  whole  has  a  dingy,  disagreeable  appearance. 
Lobsters  and  crabs  are  to  be  judged  by  their  weight;  if  they  feel 
light,  they  have  wasted  themselves  by  long  keeping. 

35.  Seasons  of  Fish. — There  are  some  kinds  of  fish  absolutely 
poisonous  ^ten  out  of  season;  such  are  salmon,  and  skate.  The 
following  will  give  some  idea  of  the  seasons  of  fish,  but  they  vary 
according  to  the  weather.  Cod  comes  in  about  October,  and  goes  out 
about  February;  it  is  sometimes  good  for  a  short  time  about  August. 
Salmon  comes  in  in  February,  is  in  high  season  during  May,  June, 
and  July,  declines  in  August,  and  is  quite  out  in  September.  Pickled 
Balmon  is  good  from  May  till  September.  Herrings  are  in  season  as 
long  as  they  are  full  of  roe;  when  shotten,  they  are  worthless. 
Sprats  are  best  in  frosty  weather.  Lobsters  and  crabs  are  plentiful 
in  the  spring  and  early  part  of  the  summer.  Haddock,  flounders, 
muscles,  come  in  in  September  or  October,  and  are  out  about  April 
or^'May.  Jacks  or  pikes,  eels,  perch,  tench,  carp,  and  other  fresh 
water  fish,  become  plentiful  about  April  or  May,  according  to  the 
weather.  Eels  are  never  out  of  season,  but  in  cold  weather  are 
hardly  to  be  procured.  Hallibut  is  in  season  from  the  beginning  of 
May  until  the  end  of  September. 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  COOKING. 

36.  A  great  deal  has  to  be  done  before  the  cook  can  commence  the 
operation  of  cooking.  She  has  to  truss  her  fowls  and  prepare  her 
fish,  butcher's  meat,  and  vegetables,  with  other  things  not  necessary 
to  mention  here.  Never  wash  butcher's  meat  except  for  the  purpose 
of  cleansing  it  of  blood,  which  would  otherwise  disfigure  it  when 
dressed.     Few  joints  require  this  operation ;  heads,  hearts  and  scrags 


PREPARATIONS     FOR     COOKING.  31 

alwaypi  rcquiro  to  be  well  washed  before  they  are  cooked,  but  if  they 
or  any  thing  else  are  intended  for  roasting  or  frying,  they  should 
first  be  rendered  perfectly  dry,  by  rubbing  with  a  coarse  cloth,  or 
otherwise.  Salt  rubbed  in  with  warm  water  will  speedily  remove 
the  blood  and  cleanse  the  meat.  Hares  must  be  always  well  washed 
with  salt  and  water,  or  milk  and  water. 

37.  Trussing  is  little  required  in  butcher's  meat ;  but  loins,  boned 
and  stuffed,  such  as  those  of  beef,  mutton  and  pork,  must  of  course 
be  trussed.  This  is  done  by  spreading  the  stuffing  and  seasoning 
over  them,  then  rolling  them  up  as  tightly  as  possible,  tying  up  with 
a  tape  or  string,  and  securing  all  by  skewers.  The  long  flap  of  the 
fillet  of  veal  must  be  filled  with  stuffing,  and  then  secured  as  above 
directed. 

38.  All  kinds,  of  poultry  should  be  killed  the  first  thing  in  the 
morning,  when  their  crops  are  empty.  They  should  be  plucked 
while  they  are  warm ;  be  sure  take  out  all  the  flues,  and  let  the  hair 
be  singed  ofl'with  white  paper.  It  is  recommended  to  crop  fowls  and 
pigeons  immediately  you  have  them;  but  there  is  a  difference  of 
opinion  as  to  the  time  of  drawing  them  ;  some  say  they  should  be 
drawn  as  soon  as  killed,  or  at  least  as  soon  as  bought,  which  prevents 
the  disagreeable  flavour  so  often  perceived  in  chickens;  others  say, 
and  indeed  the  generality  of  cooks  are  of  this  opinion,  that  they  should 
not  be  drawn  till  just  before  they  are  dressed,  as  it  is  apt  to  make 
them  dry  :  we  are  of  opinion  that  poultry  should  be  drawn  soon  after 
Ihey  are  killed  ;  we  do  not  believe  that  this  makes  them  dry,  though 
we  are  sure  that  to  leave  them  undrawn  will  be  apt  to  make  them 
stink. 

39.  In  drawing  poultry,  or  removing  the  entrails,  a  very  small  slit 
may  bo  made  under  the  vent  with  a  penknife,  at  which  slip  in  the 
fore-finger,  and  if  there  is  any  internal  fat  about  the  vent,  draw  it  out, 
as  it  is  in  the  way  of  taking  out  the  entrails,  and,  if  left  in,  would  be 
very  strong  when  roasted.  Next  get  hold  of  the  gizzard,  which  may 
be  known  by  its  being  the  hardest  part  of  the  interior;  draw  it  out 
carefully;  it  will  generally  bring  the  whole  of  the  intestines  with  it, 
but  if  tile  liver  should  be  left,  again  slip  in  the  finger  and  take  hold 
of  the  heart,  which  will  bring  out  with  it  the  liver,  which  you  must 
not  touch  for  fear  of  bursting  the  gall-bladder.  The  heart  is  generally 
left  in  by  poulterers,  but  it  is  much  better  out,  as  it  is  apt  to  give  a 
bloody  appearance  to  the  interior  of  the  fowl.  Trim  round  the  vent 
with  a  pair  of  scissors. 

40.  Be  careful  to  take  away  the  gall-bladder  from  the  liver  with- 
out breaking  it,  for  if  one  drop  of  the  gall  escapes,  the  whole  liver  is 
spoilt.  The  gizzird  consists  of  two  parts,  with  a  stomach  or  bag  in 
the  middle,  containing  gravel  and  undigested  food  ;  one  part  of  the 
skin  by  which  the  two  parts  of  the  gizzard  are  united  is  rather  nar- 
rower than  the  other;  slit  this  vvitii  a  knife,  and  turning  the  gizzard 
inside  out,  remove  the  stomach  bag  and  trim  round  the  gizzard,  but 
avoid  cutting  the  skin  by  which  it  is  joined  in  the  middle. 

41.  In  trussing  poultrv,  cut  off  the  neck  about  two  joints  from  its 


32  THE     COMPLETE    COOK. 

commcncemeot  at  Ihn  shoulders,  but  be  pure  to  leave  half  an  inch,  or 
more,  of  the  skin  longer  than  the  part  of  the  neck  remaining-,  for  the 
purpose  of  wrapping  over  on  being  tied. 

42.  The  legs  of  fowls  intended  to  be  roasted  should  be  taken  off 
about  one  inch  below  the  first  joint ;  the  feet  and  legs  of  young 
chickens  are  generally  left  on,  but  they  must  be  scalded  in  boiling 
water,  and  the  claws  and  outside  scaly  skin  taken  off.  Thrust  the 
liver  through  a  slit  made  in  the  skinny  part  of  one  pinion,  and  the 
gizzard  tiirough  the  other;  then  turn  the  top  of  the  pinion  over  the 
back,  lay  the  legs  close  to  the  sides;  with  a  wire  skewer  fix  the 
middle  joint  of  the  pinion  outside  of  the  knee  joint  of  the  leg,  and  so 
through  the  body  to  the  other  knee  and  pinion  ;  with  a  short  skewer 
fix  the  lower  joint  to  the  lower  part  of  the  body ;  then  the  feet,  or 
whatever  part  of  them  is  left,  may  turn  back  over  the  belly.  The 
skewer  for  this  purpose  must  go  through  the  sidesmen,  fixing  the 
stumps  or  feet  between  them.  For  a  fowl  that  is  to  be  boiled,  a  slit 
is  made  on  each  side  of  the  belly,  and  the  leg-stump  tucked  in. 

43.  To  remove  the  crop  and  windpipe  of  those  whose  heads  are  left 
on,  open  the  skin  a  little  just  in  front  of  the  throat;  then  pull  each 
separately  gently,  first  from  the  beak  or  bill,  then  from  the  stomach. 
Fowls  whose  heads  are  taken  off  may  have  the  crop  removed  by 
putting  the  finger  down  the  throat.  The  windpipe  is  easily  removed 
in  the  same  way. 


[Trussed  Fowl  for  roastin?.] 

44.  Before  dressing,  a  little  flour  should  be  dusted  over  fowls. 
Poulteren-,  to  make  the  bird  look  plinnp,  often  break  the  breast  bone; 
thi*!  is  a  bid  practice — it  lets  the  air  into  the  fowl,  and  drys  the  meat; 
it  often  breaks  the  gall-bladder,  and,  of  course,  spoils  the  fowl,  and  it 
always  renders  the  bone  troublesome.  The  head  of  capon,  we  ought 
to  observe,  is  often  twisted  under  the  wing  in  the  same  way  as  a 
pheasant's. 

45.  Ducks  have  the  feet  always  left  on,  but  the  wings  must  be 
taken  off  at  the  middle  joint;  in  doing  this,  leave  more  skin  than  be- 
longs to  the  bone.  The  feet  must  be  scalded,  and  the  skin  and  clawa 
taken  away ;  they  then  must  be  turned  over  the  back.  \n  placing  the 
skewers,  keep  the  thigh  joints  outside  of  the  pinions,  and  run  the 
skewer  through  the  leg,  then  through  the  bit  of  skin  that  hangs  below 
the  pinion,  then  through  the  body,  the  other  pinion,  skin,  and  the 


PREPARATIONS     FOR     COOKING. 


33 


other  leg  The  short  skewer  must  be  inserted  just  above  the  joint, 
which  is  twisted  to  turn  back  the  feet.  Tie  the  skin  round  the  throat;- 
put  in  the  seasoning  at  the  vent  and  turn  the  lump  through  a  small 
slit  in  the  apron.  "^ 


^^-^TV^iFrfe^-? 


iS§^_ 


B 


if^^^ 


[Trussed  Duck  for  roasting.] 

46.  Geese  are  trussed  exactly  in  the  same  way  as  ducks,  except 
the  feet  are  cut  off,  and  dressed  with  the  giblets.  The  liver  is  some- 
times dressed  separately,  and  considered  by  some  persons  a  great 
delicacy.  A  pioce  of  greased  white  paper  should  be  laid  over  the 
breast,  and  secured  with  a  string,  not  skewers,  before  a  goose  is  put 
down  to  roast. 

47.  Turkeys  are  trussed  the  same  way  as  fowls,  but  the  sinews  of 
the  leg  must  be  drawn  out  before  trussing.  The  gizzard  of  a  turkey 
intended  to  be  roasted  should  be  scored,  and  both  gizzard  and  liver 
covered  with  the  caul  of  veal  or  lamb;  but  buttered  paper  does  a3 
well,  and  is  more  generally  used:  this  is  to  prevent  them  becoming 
dry.  The  breast  sliould  be  secured  in  the  same  way,  with  a  piece  of 
buttered  paper.     Nicely  clean  th?  head,  and  twist  it  under  the  wing. 

48.  Fiffeons  should  be  cIeaT.ed  with  great  care.  For  roasting, 
truss  with  the  feet  on  ;  tie  the  joints  close  down  the  rump,  and  turn  the 
feet  over  the  front  (see  engraving).     Most  people  season  them.     For 


^ 


[Trussed  Pigeon  for  roasting.] 


[Trussed  Pheasam.J 


boiling  or  stewing,  cut  off  the  feet,  and  truss  just  as  fowls  for  boiling. 
For  broiling,  lay  tliem  open  by  cutting  them  down  the  back,  and  lav 
3 


34 


THE   COMPLETE     COOK, 


ing  them  flat  As  pigeons  have  no  gall,  no  extra  care  will  be  required 
with  the  liver. 

49.  Pheasants,  Partridges,  and  Guinea  Fowls,  are  trussed  with 
the  head  tucked  under  the  wing,  and  the  feet  on,  which  are  twisted 
and  tied  to  the  rump,  and  turned  back  over  the  breast.  The  liver 
may  be  used  in  the  stuffing. 

50.  Wild  Ducks,  and  all  other  web-footed  wild  fowl,  should  have 
the  feet  left  on,  and  be  cleaned  and  trussed  in  the  same  manner  a 
tame  ducks. 

51.  Woodcocks,  Plovers,  &,o.,  and  all  other  birds  that  live  by  sue 
tion,  are  not  drawn ;  the  feet  are  left  on,  the  knees  twisted  rouwi 


[Trussed  Woodcock.] 

each  other,  and  raised  over  the  breast,  by  which  means  each  foot 
turns  back  and  falls  on  the  side  of  the  rump. 

52.  Hare,  trussed  for  roasting,  has  the  legs  turned  back  without 
disjointing,  so  that  the  haunches  are  thrown  up,  much  in  the  form 
that  a  cat  is  often  seen  sitting — the  end  bones  of  the  fore  and  hind 
legs  meet  each  other,  and  lie  side  by  side.  Two  skewers  should  bo^ 
inserted,  one  where  the  end  of  the  leg  meets  the  fleshy  part  of  the 
shoulder,  and  the  other  where  the  end  of  the  shoulder  meets  tho 
fleshy  part  of  the  leg ;  the  head  is  fixed  back  with  a  skewer  thrust 


[Trussed  Hare.j 

into  the  mouth,  through  the  head,  and  into  the  back  between  the 
shoulders.  The  belly  should  be  slit  no  more  than  is  necessary  for 
taking  out  the  paunch.     To  secure  its  keeping  in  place,  a  string  w 


PREPARATIONS     FOR     COOKING.  35 

employed  for  bracing  it;  the  string-  is  laid  across  the  back,  twisted 
round  the  end  of  both  skewers,  and  brought  back  across  the  back  and 
tied.  In  skinning  hares  and  rabbits,  particularly  bares,  the  ears  and 
tails  should  be  preserved  entire,  as  they  improve  the  appearance  of 
these  dishes  on  the  table,  and  are  much  esteemed. 

53.  Rabbits  for  boiling  are  opened  all  the  way  down  the  belly  ; 
joint  the  legs  at  the  rump  so  as  to  admit  of  their  turning  along  the 
sides ;  turn''the  shoulders  back  to  meet  them,  so  that  the  lower  joints 
of  each  lie  straight  along,  side  by  side;  the  head  should  be  skewered 
down  to  the  right  shoulder.  Rabbits  for  roasting  are  trussed  liko 
hares. 


^^  [Trussed  Rabbit  for  boiling.] 

54.  Fawns  or  Kids  are  generally  trussed  and  dressed  in  the  same 
way  as  hares.  As  the  flesh  is  of  a  dry  nature,  they  should  be  covered 
with  a  caul  or  buttered  paper,  which  should  be  tied  on,  not  skewered. 
Fawns  will  not  keep  above  a  day  or  two  at  the  furthest. 

55.  Sucking  Pigs,  the  moment  they  are  killed,  should  be  put  into 
cold  water  for  a  few  minutes.  Some  persons  then  rub  them  over 
with  powdered  resin:  others  object  to  this  on  account  of  the  flavour 
of  the  resin,  which  the  pig  will  retain,  if  not  well  washed.  Put  the 
pig  for  half  a  minute  into  a  pail  or  pan  of  boiling  water,  and  take  it 
out  and  pull  off"  the  hair  or  bristles  as  quickly  as  possible.  If  any 
should  remain,  put  it  again  into  hot  water;  when  quite  free  from  hair, 
wash  it  thoroughly  with  warm  water,  and  then  rinse  it  several  times 
in  cold  water,  that  no  flavour  of  the  resin  may  remain.  The  feet 
should  be  taken  off  at  the  first  joint:  then  make  a  slit  down  the  belly 
and  remove  the  entrails ;  once  more  wash  the  pig  inside  and  out  in 
cold  water,  and  wrap  it  in  a  wet  cloth  till  you  are  ready  to  dress  it, 
which  should  be  done  as  soon  as  possible.  Fill  the  belly  with  season- 
ing, and  sew  it  up;  skewer  back  the  legs,  and  the  trussing  is  com- 
pleted. The  feet,  heart,  liver,  lights,  and  melt,  are  to  be  dressed 
separately,  when  well  cleaned.     This  dish  is  called  pig's  pettitoes. 

56.  Fish,  in  cleaning,  should  have  every  particle  of  the  entrails 
very  carefully  removed.  If  the  blood  has  settled  down  the  back-bone, 
or  elsewhere,  it  should  be  carefully  taken  away,  and  care  should  be 
taken  not  to  break  the  gallbladder  of  the  liver.  Some  fish  must  be 
slit  in  order  to  clean  them ;  others  may  have  their  entrails  drawn  out 
at  the  gills,  which  should  be  always  done  when  it  is  practicable. 
Mackerel,  perch,  &c.  are  cleaned  in  this  way.     Flat  fish  may  be  so 


.»-yf 


THE    COMPLETE    COOK. 


cleaned,  but  it  is  usual  to  make  a  slanting  slit  on  one  side,  just  below 
the  gill,  in  order  to  put  in  the  finger  and  remove  the  clotted  blood 
from  the  back-bone.  Fishes  with  scales  should  be  scraped  from  the 
tail  to  the  head,  till  all  the  scales  are  removed ;  others,  such  as  soles 
and  eels,  are  skinned.  The  cook  ought  not  to  depend  upon  the  clean- 
ing of  fish  by  the  fishmonger,  but  carefully  examine  them  before 
dressing. 

57.  Eels  are  remarkably  tenacious  of  life,  and  appear  to  suffer 
after  they  are  cut  into  several  pieces.  In  order  to  take  the  sense  of 
feeling  entirely  from  this  fish,  it  is  only  necessary,  before  it  is  skinned, 
to  pierce  the  spinal  marrow,  just  at  the  back-  of  the  skull,  right 
through,  when  all  feeling  in  the  eel  will  instantly  cease,  though  it 
has  the  appearance  of  being  alive.  Then  raise  the  skin,  at  the"  part 
cut  or  pierced,  draw  it  back  over  the  mouth  and  head,  secure  the  head 
with  a  strong  fork  to  a  table,  or  dresser,  and  draw  back  the  whole 
skin.  To  prevent  the  eel  from  slipping  through  your  hands,  rub  tbem 
with  salt,  and  you  will  then  draw  off  the  skin  easily.  Eels,  except 
very  small  ones,  require  to  be  slit  all  the  way  from  the  vent  to  the 
gills,  and  the  inside  of  the  back-bone  should  be  rubbed  with  salt.  The 
liver,  roe  or  melt,  are  much  esteemed,  and  should  be  therefore  pre- 
served. 

58.  Fish  without  Scales,  <^c. — Cod,  mackerel,  whiting,  and  some 
other  fish,  being  without  scales,  need  nothing  doing  to  them  except 
drawing  them  and  washing  or  wiping.  Sprats,  for  broiling,  should 
have  a  long  bird-skewer  run  through  their  eyes,  or  a  common  knitting- 
needle.  Neither  sprats  nor  the  silver-stringed  herring,  which  is  the 
best,  should  ever  be  drawn.  They  should  be  wiped  dry  and  clean. 
Fish  for  frying,  should  not  be  washed  if  it  be  possible  to  avoid  it.  If 
they  require  washing,  it  should  be  done  an  hour  or  two  before  they 
are  fried,  and  wrapped  up  in  a  coarse  cloth  till  they  are  thorough- 
ly dry. 

59.  Turhot,  Plaice,  Flounders,  ^c,  having  been  gutted  and  wiped, 
enould  be  sprinkled  with  salt,  and  hung  up  for  several  hours  before 
dressing. 

60.  Cod,  having  been  drawn  and  washed,  will  eat  firmer  if  it  be 
sprinkled  with  salt  some  time  before  putting  it  into  the  fish-kettle, 
with  cold  v^rater,  where  it  may  remain  an  hour  or  two  before  boiling, 
or  it  may  be  hung  up  like  plaice,  &c. 

61.  Oysters,  if  fresh  from  the  sea,  that  is,  uncleansed  by  the  fish- 
monger, should,  as  soon  as  received,  be  laid  in  a  pan  or  tub,  with  the 
flat  shell  upwards,  and  the  whole  fish  covered  with  spring  water;  to 
which  put  a  pint  of  salt  to  every  two  gallons  of  water.  In  a  few 
hours  the  fish  will  have  cleansed  themselves,  and  become  fit  for  use. 
If  they  are  required  to  be  kept  longer,  the  water  should  be  taken 
away  at  night,  and  renewed  in  the  morning;  but  they  are  never 
bettor  than  after  they  have  been  in  the  water  from  six  to  ten  hours. 
There  are  persons  who  recommend  that  they  should  always  be  kept 
nnder  water,  which  they  say  should  be  renewed  every  twelve  hours. 
Such  persons  forget  that  oysters,  in  their  natural  state,  are  not  under 


PREPARATIONS     FOR    COOKING.  37 

water  when  the  tide  is  out.  Some  writers  recommend  fresh  water, 
but  for  what  reason  we  know  not,  except  to  spoil  the  fish.  Others 
order  them  to  be  sprinkled  with  flour,  or  oatmeal,  for  the  purpose 
of  making  the  fish  white.  We  believe  it  has  no  such  effect — 
much  less  will  it  feed  them.  Clear  fresh  springr  water  with  a  little 
sail,  is  the  best ;  in  this  they  will  soon  scour  themselves,  and  become 
delicately  white.  Oysters  should  be  opened  very  carefully — be 
turned  round  on  the  shell — the  lower  shell  preserves  the  liquor  best, 
and  then  served  immediately;  but  they  are  better  when  eaten  and 
opened  at  table.  Every  moment  the  oyster  is  kept  after  it  is  opened^ 
injures  it  in  quality  and  Jlavour.  If  served  on  the  flat  side  of  the 
shell,  the  liquor  should  be  preserved  and  used  for  flavouring-. — N.  B. 
Oysters  when  taken  fresh  from  the  clean  sea,  that  is,  from  beds  de- 
void of  mud,  require  no  cleansing;  but,  on  the  contrary,  we  are  as- 
sured on  good  authority,  are  much  better  without  it.  The  process  of 
cleansing  deprives  the  fish  of  its  flavour  to  a  certain  extent,  and  very 
much  weakens  the  delicious  liquor  in  the  shell. 

62.  Vegetables,  particularly  green,  in  preparing  for  dressing,  re- 
quire great  attention  in  point  of  cleanliness.  If  vegetables  for  boiling 
can  be  gathered  perfectly  clean,  immediately  before  being  put  in  the 
pot,  they  preserve  their  colour  much  better  without  washing.  But 
this  will  seldom  be  the  case,  particularly  with  those  purchased  of  the 
greengrocer.  When  they  are  a  little  stale,  which  is  almost  always 
the  case,  if  not  gathered  in  your  own  garden,  putting  them  in  water 
for  a  few  hours  will  refresh  them.  Salt  and  water  should  be  used  for 
the  purpose  of  bringing  out  the  slugs,  or  caterpillars,  in  which  sum- 
mer cauliflowers  and  cabbage  very  often  abound.  Every  drop  of  cold 
water,  if  possible,  should  be  shaken  out  of  them  before  boiling.  Green 
peas,  broad  beans  and  French  beans,  ought  not  to  be  washed.  Tur- 
nip greens,  if  quite  clean  and  fresh,  are  better  not  washed ;  but  it 
otherwise  they  must  be  washed  through  several  waters. 

63.  Asparagus,  Artichokes,  Spinach^  ^c. — Scrape  the  stalks  of 
asparagus  clean,  tie  them  up  with  tape,  in  bundles  of  twenty-five  or 
thirty  each  ;  cut  off"  the  ends  of  the  stalks  to  an  equal  length.  If  quite 
frf^^sh  they  need  not  be  washed.  Artichokes  require  thorough  wash- 
ing, and  should  be  soaked  two  hours  or  so  in  water  before  dressing. 
Spinach  should  be  picked  leaf  by  leaf;  washed  in  three  or  four 
waters,  and  thoroughly  drained.     Celery  should  be  well  soaked. 

64.  Potatoes  and  Jerusalem  Artichokes  should  be  well  scrubbed 
with  a  birch  broom,  besom,  or  scrubbing  brush,  and  washed  very  clea 
just  before  boiling;  but  they  should  never  be  the  least  wetted  till  they 
are  about  to  be  dressed.  Some  persons  like  them  best  boiled  in  the 
skins;  they  are  best  peeled  before  boiling  when  they  are  old  or 
epecky. 

65.  Carrots,  Parsnips,  Beetroots,  and  Turnips. — Carrots  and 
parsnips  should  be  well  washed  and  scrubbed,  but  not  scraped,  as  it  is 
apt  to  injure  the  flavour.  After  boilintr,  rub  the  skins  with  a  coarse 
cloth.  jFur  soups,  &c.,  they  should  be  scraped.  Beetroots  should  be 
washed  and  scrubbed  very  clean,  but  if  the  red  sort  be  scraped,  or  cut 

3» 


38  TIIECOMPLETECOOK. 

with  a  knife,  the  colour  will  escape.     When  done,  carefully  rub  with 
a  rough  cloth.     Wash  and  peel  turnips. 

Having  given  directions  for  the  preparations  for  cooking,  we  now 
proceed  to  Cooking  itself;  and  shall  begin  v^ith 

SOUPS  AND  BROTHS,  &c. 

In  our  general  directions  we  have  given  pretty  full  instructions  on 
the  art  of  making  broths,  stews,  &c.,  which  instructions  are  of  them- 
selves sufficient  to  enable  a  young  cook,  possessed  of  diligence  and 
common  sense,  to  prepare  the  diticrent  varieties  of  these  dishes,  with- 
out the  assistance  of  particular  receipts.  We  give,  however,  the  fol- 
lowing. 

66.  Clear  Gravy  Soups. — Cut  half  a  pound  of  ham  into  slices,  and 
lay  them  at  the  bottom  of  a  large  stew-pan,  or  stock  pot,  with  two  or 
three  pounds  of  veal  and  the  same  weight  of  lean  beef;  break  the 
bones  and  lay  them  on  the  meat;  pare  two  turnips  and  skin  two  large 
onions;  wash  clean,  and  cut  into  pieces  two  large  carrots,  two  iieads 
of  celery;  put  in  a  large  blade  of  mace,  and  three  cloves;  cover  the 
stew-pan  close,  and  set  it  over  a  clear  fire;  when  the  meat  begins  to 
Btick  at  the  bottom  of  the  stew-pan,  turn  it,  and  when  there  is  a  nice 
brown  glaze  at  the  bottom  of  the  stew-pan  cover  the  meat  with  hot 
water;  put  in  half  a  pint  when  it  is  coming  to  a  boil  ;  take  off  the 
ecum,  and  put  in  half  a  pint  more  of  cold  water;  then  skim  it  again, 
and  continue  to  do  so  till  no  more  scum  rises:  now  set  it  on  one  side 
of  the  fire  to  boil  gently  for  four  hours;  strain  through  a  clean  tamis 
(do  not  squeeze  it,  or  the  soup  will  be  thick)  into  a  clean  stone  pan ; 
let  it  remain  till  it  is  cold,  then  remove  all  the  fat;  when  you  bottle 
it,  be  careful  not  to  disturb  the  settlings  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan. 
The  broth  should  be  of  a  fine  amber  colour,  and  very  clear.  If  it  is 
not  quite  as  bright  as  you  wish  it,  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  ;  break  two 
whites  and  the  shells  of  eggs,  mix  well  together  and  put  them  into 
the  soup,  set  it  on  a  quick  fire,  and  stir  it  with  a  whisk  till  it  boils, 
then  set  it  on  one  side  till  it  settles;  run  it  through  a  fine  napkin; 
then  it  is  ready.  If  you  skim  your  broth  carefully  as  directed  above, 
it  will  be  ck^ar  enough;  clarifying  it  impairs  the  flavour. — Ohserve. 
This  is  the  basis  of  almost  all  gravy  soups,  which  are  called  by  the 
name  of  the  vegetables  that  are  put  into  them:  carrots,  turnips, 
onions,  celery,  and  a  few  leaves  of  chervil,  make  what  is  called  spring 
soup;  to  this  a  pint  of  green  peas, or  asparagus,  or  French  beans  cut 
into  pieces,  or  a  cabbage  lettuce,  is  an  improvement.  With  rice, 
Scotch  barley,  or  vermicelli,  maccaroni  or  celery,  cut  into  lengths,  it 
will  be  the  soup  usually  called  by  those  names.  Or  turnips  scooped, 
round  or  young  onions,  will  give  you  a  clear  turnip  or  onion  soup. 
The  roots  and  vegetables  used  must  be  boiled  first,  or  they  will  im- 
pregnate the  soup  with  too  strong  a  flavour.  Seasoning  for  those  soups 
is  the  same,  viz.  salt,  and  a  very  little  cayenne  pepper. 

67.  Ox  Tail  Soup. — Take  three  or  tour  ox  tails;  divide  at  the 
joints;  well  wash,  and  soak  them.     Put  them  on  the  fire;  to  each 


SOUPS     AND     BROTHS,    &C.  39 

tail  allow  a  quart  of  water;  when  they  boil,  take  off  all  the  scum.  K 
four  tails  add  four  onions,  and  eight  or  ten  corns  of  allspice  and  black 
pepper  to  each  tail.  Simmer  it  slowly  till  the  meat  on  the  bones  is 
tender.  Then  take  out  the  tails,  scrape  off  ail  the  meat  and  cut  it 
small;  strain  the  soup  through  a  sieve.  To  thicken  it,  take  two 
ounces  of  butter,  and  as  much  flour  as  it  will  take  up;  mix  it  well 
with  the  whole,  and  let  it  simmer  another  half  hour.  If  not  perfectly 
smooth,  it  must  be  strained  again ;  then  put  in  the  meat,  with  a  glass 
of  wine,  a  table-spoonful  of  mushroom  catsup,  a  little  cayenne,  and 
salt  to  taste  ;  simmer  it  again  a  few  minutes.  Or  instead  of  thicken- 
ing the  soup,  the  meat  may  be  returned  to  the  gravy  and  wanned 
again,  with  or  without  the  addition  of  carrots  and  turnips. 

68.  Hotch-jjotch. — Take  lamb  or  mutton  chop?,  and  stew  them  in 
good  gravy,  with  the  addition  of  almost  every  kind  of  vegetable.  A 
summer  hotcli-potch  is  composed  of  young  onions,  carrots,  asparagus 
green  peas,  lettuce,  turnips,  spinach,  and  parsley  ;  a  winter  one  is  com- 
posed of  full-grown  turnips  cut  small,  old  carrots  cut  small  or  grated, 
celery  and  onions  sliced,  dried  peas — the  green  or  blue  sort  are  the  best 
colours  for  this  purpose.  I^he  peas  will  take  much  longer  boiling  than 
either  meat  or  green  vegetables.  Put  them  in  the  liquor  boiling,  and 
let  them  boil  an  hour  before  the  addition  of  meat,  and  the  other  vege- 
tables. The  proportion  is  four  pounds  of  meat  to  a  gallon  of  stock, 
and  two  quarts  of  vegetables.  Boil  the  meat  and  vegetables  between 
two  and  three  hours,  slow  boiling,  with  the  lid  on.  If  you  add  green 
peas  or  asparagus  tops  among  the  vegetables,  keep  out  nearly  all  of 
them  till  within  half  an  hour  of  sending  them  to  table ;  then  letthern 
Doil  fast  till  tender.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  all  to- 
gether. Some  people  make  it  of  brisket  of  beef,  and  add  a  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs.  The  beef  will  require  stewing  longer.  A  leg  of 
beef,  cut  in  pieces,  and  stewed  six  or  seven  hours,  with  carrots  and 
the  other  ingredients,  makes  very  good  soup.  A  little  small  beer  is 
in  improvement  to  all  brown  soups. 

69.  Fish  Broth. — Thick-skinned  fish,  and  those  which  have  gluti- 
nous,  jelly-like  substances,  are  the  best.  The  liquor  which  eels  have 
been  boiled  in  is  good  enough  of  itself,  as  they  require  but  little  water. 
The  liquor  in  which  turbot  or  cod  has  been  boiled,  bcjil  again,  with 
the  addition  of  the  bones.  If  purposely  made,  small  eels,  or  grigs, 
or  flat  fish,  as  flounders,  soles,  plaice  or  dabs,  or  the  finny  parts  of 
cod,  will  do  for  the  purpose.  A  pound  of  fish  to  three  pints  of  water  ; 
add  peppercorns,  a  large  handful  of  parsley,  and  an  onion  ;  and  boil 
till  reduced  to  half.  A  spoonful  of  catsup,  or  vinegar,  is  an  improve- 
ment. This  broth  is  very  nourishing  and  easy  of  digestion;  but  for  a 
sick  person,  leave  out  the  catsup  or  vinegar. 

.  70.  Cock-a-leeky  Soup. — Take  a  small  knuckle  of  veal,  and  a  large 
fowl,  or  a  scrag  of  mutton  instead  of  veal.  An  old  fowl  will  do.  Add 
three  or  four  large  leeks,  cut  in  pieces  of  half  an  inch  long.  Simmer 
in  three  quarts  of  good  broth  for  an  hour.  Then  add  as  many  more 
leeks,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Let  it  boil  three-quarters 
of  an  hour  iong.i^^,  and  serve  all  togetriur.     The  leeks  which  are  put 


40  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

in  first,  is  with  the  intention  of  thickening  the  soup ;  and  those  which 
lire  put  in  last,  should  retain  their  form  and  substance. 

71.  Scotch  Brose,  or  Crowdy. — Take  half  a  pint  of  oatmeal ;  put 
it  before  the  fire,  and  frequently  turn  it  till  it  is  perfectly  dry  and  of  a 
light  brown.  Take  a  ladle-full  of  boiling  water,  in  which  fat  meat 
has  been  boiled,  and  stir  it  briskly  to  the  oatmeal,  still  adding  more 
liquor  till  it  is  brought  to  the  thickness  desired,  which  is  about  that 
of  a  stiff  batter;  a  little  salt  and  pepper  may  be  added,  if  the  liquor 
with  which  it  was  made  was  not  salt.  Kalebroseis  the  same  thing, 
but  with  the  addition  of  greens,  cut  small,  and  boiled  in  the  liquor. 

72.  Pease  Soup.--Vi\\.  a  quart  of  split  peas  to  three  quarts  of 
boiling  water,  not  more  (Dr.  Kitchiner  says  cold  water,)  with  half  a 
pound  of  bacon,  not  very  fat,  or  roast  beef  bones,  or  four  anchovies; 
or,  instead  of  water,  the  liquor  in  which  beef,  mutton,  pork  or  poultry, 
has  been  boiled  ;  it  will  be  very  much  better,  but  taste  the  liquor,  as  it 
must  not  be  too  salt.  Wash  two  heads  of  celery,  cut  small  (half  a 
drachm  of  celery  seed,  pounded  fine,  and  put  into  the  soup,  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  before  it  is  finished,  will  flavour  three  quarts,)  two  onions 
peeled,  and  a  spri^  of  savoury,  or  sweet  marjoram,  or  lemon  thyme. 
Let  it  simmer  very  gently,  stirring  it  every  quarter  of  an  hour,  to 
keep  the  peas  from  sticking  to  or  burning  at  the  bottom  of  the  pot. 
Simmer  till  the  peas  are  tender,  which  will  be  in  about  three  hours. 
Some  cooks  now  slice  a  head  of  celery  and  half  an  ounce  of  onions, 
and  fry  them  in  a  little  batter,  and  put  them  into  the  soup,  till  it  is 
li;:  -itly  browned;  then  work  the  whole  through  a  coarse  hair  sieve, 
and  then  through  a  fine  sieve,  or  through  a  tamis,  with  the  back  of  a 
wooden  spoon ;  then  put  it  into  a  clean  stew-pan,  with  a  tea-spoonful 
of  ground  black  pepper;  let  it  boil  again  for  ten  minutes,  and  if  any 
fat  arises  skim  it  off.  Send  up  on  a  plate  some  toasted  bread,  cut  into 
little  pieces,  an  inch  square;  or  cut  a  slice  of  bread  (that  has  been 
baked  two  days)  into  dice,  not  more  than  half  an  inch  square ;  put 
half  a  pound  of  quite  clean  dripping,  or  lard,  into  an  iron  frying-pan; 
when  it  is  hot  fry  the  bread  ;  take  care  to  turn  the  bread  with  a  slice, 
that  it  may  be  of  a  delicate  brown  on  both  sides ;  take  it  up  with  a 
fish-slice,  and  lay  it  on  a  sheet  of  paper  to  drain  the  fat ;  be  careful 
that  this  is  done  nicely.  Send  them  up  in  one  side  dish,  and  dried 
and  powdered  mint,  or  savoury,  in  another.  The  most  economical 
method  of  making  pease  soup,  is  to  save  the  bones  of  a  joint  of  roast 
beef,  and  put  them  into  the  liquor  in  which  mutton,  or  beef,  or  pork,  or 
poultry,  has  been  boiled,  and  proceed  as  in  the  first  receipt.  A  hock 
or  shank  bone  of  ham,  a  ham  bone,  the  root  of  a  tongue,  or  a  red  or 
pickled  herring,  are  favourite  additions  with  some  people  ;  others  send 
up  rice  or  vermicelli  with  pease  soup.  Pease  soup  may  be  made  sa- 
voury and  agreeable  to  the  palate,  without  any  meat,  by  putting  two 
ounces  of  fresh  and  nicely  clarified  beef,  mutton,  or  pork  dripping, 
with  two  ounces  of  oatmeal,  and  mix  this  well  into  a  gallon  of  soup 
prepared  with  the  peas  and  vegetables,  according  to  the  first  receipt, 
or  in  water  alone. 

73.  Pease  Soup  and  Pickled  Pork. — Take  two  pounds  of  pickled 


SOUPS     AND     BROTHS,    &C.  41 

pork,  which  will  make  very  good  broth  for  pease  soup;  ifthe  pork  is 
too  salt,  put  it  in  water  on  the  over-night.  The  pork  should  not  be 
in  salt  more  than  two  days.  Put  on  the  articles,  mentioned  in  the 
first  receipt,  in  three  quarts  of  water ;  boil  these  gently  for  two  hours; 
then  put  in  the  pork,  and  boil  gently  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  or  two 
hours,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  pork  ;  when  done,  wash  the 
pork  clean  in  some  hot  water  ;  send  it  up  in  a  dish,  or  cut  it  into  little 
pieces,  and  put  them  into  the  tureen,  with  the  toasted  bread,  &c.,  or 
as  in  the  first  receipt.  The  meat  being  boiled  no  longer  than  to  be 
done  enough  to  eat,  you  can  get  excellent  soup  without  the  expense 
of  any  other  meat. 

74.  Plain  Pease  Soup. — To  a  quart  of  split  peas,  and  two  heads  of 
celery,  and  a  large  onion,  put  three  quarts  of  broth,  or  soft  water;  let 
them  simmer  gently  over  a  slow  fire  for  three  hours.  Stir  them  up 
every  quarter  of  an  hour,  to  prevent  the  peas  sticking  at  the  bottom 
of  the  pot,  and  burning. 

75.  Spanish  Soup. — Take  about  three  pounds  of  beef,  off  the  leg 
or  shin,  with  or  without  the  bone — if  with  the  bone,  well  crack  it — a 
pound  of  knuckle  of  ham,  or  gammon.  More  than  cover  them  with 
water,  and  when  it  boils  skim  it,  and  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
The  ham  will  probably  make  it  sufficiently  salt — if  not,  add  a  little. 
Let  this  simmer  by  the  side  of  the  fire  until  it  is  three  parts  done, 
which  will  take  two  hours  and  a  half.  And  then  well  wash  some 
cabbage  plants,  or  small  summer  cabbage;  cut  these  into  small  pieces, 
also  onions  cut  small;  a  tea-cup  full  of  rice,  with  a  bit  of  eschalot; 
put  these  in  the  saucepan,  and  let  it  simmer  a  quarter  of  an  hour  or 
twenty  minutes,  until  the  rice  is  boiled  enough.  Then  take  it  from 
the  fire ;  separate  the  meat,  vegetables,  and  rice,  from  the  soup,  and 
eat  the  soup  before  the  meat.  Separate  the  meat  from  the  bones,  and 
mix  it  with  the  vegetables.  If  the  plants  are  too  strong,  scald  them 
before  putting  them  in  the  saucepan.  In  the  summer,  a  few  young 
peas  make  a  great  improvement.  Leeks  are  better  than  onions,  a3 
you  can  have  more  in  quantity  of  vegetables.  The  Spaniards  use 
garlic.     This  will  dine  a  family  of  seven  or  eight  people. 

76.  Chicken  Broth. — Chicken  bones,  and  the  heads  and  feet,  make 
a  basin  of  good  broth,  provided  the  fowls  have  been  boiled,  and  the 
liquor  used  instead  of  water.  The  heads  and  feet  of  four  fowls  may 
be  boiled  in  a  quart  of  water,  with  the  addition  of  an  onion  and  a  blade 
of  mace,  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Chicken  broth  may  be  enriched 
by  the  additic>n  of  a  knuckle  bone  of  veal,  a  bit  of  beef,  or  three  or 
four  shank  bones  of  mutton. 

77.  Mutton  Broth. — Scrags  of  mutton,  or  sheeps'  heads,  make  a 
very  good  family  dinner.  Two  or  three  scrags  of  mutton,  or  two 
sheeps'  heads,  may  be  put  on  in  a  two-gallon  pot;  when  it  boils,  skim 
it  well,  then  add  six  ounces  of  Scotch  or  pearl  barley,  or  rice;  let  it 
boil  an  hour  or  more;  then  add  eight  or  ten  turnips,  three  or  four  car- 
rots, cut  up,  and  four  or  five  onions.  Half  an  hour  before  serving,  put 
in  a  few  small  suet  dumplings,  a  little  parsley,  and  a  few  marigold 
blossoms.    This  broth  should  boil  two  hours  and  a  half,  or  three  hours. 


4s  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

The  knuckle  of  a  shoulder  of  mutton  answers  very  well  in  this  man- 
ner. Serve  the  meat  on  a  separate  disii,  and  the  broth,  dumplings, 
and  vegetables,  all  together  in  a  large  tureen. 

78.  Mutton  Chop  Broth. — Cut  the  chops  from  a  neck  or  loin  of 
mutton ;  cut  as  much  as  is  required  into  thin  chops ;  put  them  in  a 
stew-pan,  with  an  onion  or  two,  a  little  salt,  and  cold  water  enough 
to  cover  them.  Skim  well  when  it  boils,  and  let  it  stew  slowly  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  or  an  hour.  Turnips  may  be  boiled  in  this  liquor, 
or  boiled  separately,  and  mashed.  Serve  the  broth  and  meat  to- 
gether. In  broth  intended  for  invalids,  the  vegetables  and  spice 
should  be  left  out. 

79.  Soup  and  Bouilli. — For  the  bouilli,  roll  five  pounds  of  brisket 
of  beef  tight  with  a  tape,  put  it  into  a  slew-pan;  four  pounds  of  the 
leg  of  beef;  about  seven  or  eight  quarts  of  water  ;  boil  these  up  quick ; 
scum  it ;  add  one  large  onion,  six  or  seven  cloves,  some  whole  pep- 
per, two  or  three  carrots,  a  turnip  or  two,  a  leek,  two  heads  of  celery  ; 
stew  them  very  gently,  closely  covered,  for  six  or  seven  hours;  about 
an  hour  before  dinner,  strain  the  soup  through  a  piece  of  flannel  (put 
the  rough  side  upwards,)  or  a  hair  sieve ;  have  ready  boiled  carrots 
and  turnips  sliced,  spinach,  a  little  chervil,  and  sorrel,  two  heads  of 
endive,  one  or  tv/o  of  celery,  cut  in  pieces.  Put  the  soup  into  a  tu- 
reen. The  carrots  and  turnips  in  separate  dishes;  add  a  little  salt 
and  cayenne  to  the  soup.  Take  the  tape  from  the  bouilli  very  care- 
fully, and  serve  in  a  dish.  A  leg  or  shin  of  beef,  with  a  piece  of  fat 
beef,  will  answer  the  purpose. 

80.  A  Cheap  Sonp. — Two  pounds  of  lean  beef,  six  onions,  six  po- 
tatoes (parboiled,)  one  carrot,  one  turnip,  half  a  pint  of  split  peas,  four 
quarts  of  water,  some  whole  pepper,  a  head  of  celery,  a  red  herring; 
when  boiled,  rub  through  a  coarse  sieve,  add  spinach  and  celery 
boiled,  dried  mint,  and  fried  bread. 

81.  Veal  Soup. — Cut  the  meat  off  in  thin  slices;  put  the  meat  in  a 
large  jug  or  jar;  put  to  it  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  half  an  ounce  of 
almonds,  blanched,  and  beat  fine ;  pour  on  it  four  quarts  of  boiling 
water;  cover  it  close,  and  let  it  stand  all  night  by  the  fire;  the  next 
day,  put  it  into  an  earthen  vessel;  let  it  stew  very  slowly  till  it  is  re- 
duced to  two  quarts;  take  off  the  scum  as  it  rises  while  boiling,  and 
let  it  stand  to  settle;  then  pour  it  clear  off,  and  put  it  into  a  clean 
saucepan ;  mix  with  three  ounces  of  either  boiled  rice  or  vermicelli. 

82.  Calf's  Head  Soup. — Take  a  calPs  head,  wash  it  clean,  stew 
it  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  an  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  mace, 
pearl  barley,  and  Jamaica  pepper ;  when  it  is  very  tender,  put  to  it 
some  stewed  celery ;  season  it  with  pepper ;  and  serve  it  with  tha 
head  in  the  middle. 

83.  Giblct  Soup. — The  most  economical  way  is  to  take  a  pound  or 
two  of  beef  skirts,  or  of  knuckle  of  veal;  cut  it  into  pieces  two  or 
three  inches  square;  a  set  of  goose  giblets,  or  four  sets  of  ducks',  or 
the  head,  neck,  and  feet,  of  a  turkey  or  two,  or  of  six  or  eight  fowls; 
all  of  these  are  good,  either  separate  or  together.  Clean  them  well, 
split  the  heads,  cut  the  gizzards  across,  crack  the  pinions  and  feet 


SOUPS     ANDBROTHS,&C.  43 

bones.  Put  all  together  into  a  stew-pan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  the 
red  part  of  two  or  three  carrots  cut  up,  two  or  three  onions  sliced,  and 
a  clove  or  two  of  eschalots.  Shake  it  over  a  clear  slow  fire  a  few 
minutes,  to  draw  the  gravy,  then  add  water  or  broth  enough  to  cover 
the  whole  ;  let  it  simmer  two  hours  or  more,  then  season  with  salt 
and  pf'pper,  and  a  large  spoonful  of  catsup,  and  serve  all  together.  It 
may  be  thickened  with  rice  or  barley,  which  should  be  added  as  soon 
"IS  it  boils. — A  more  expensive  way :  Prepare  the  giblets  a?  above 
and  set  them  on  with  good  gravy,  enough  to  cover  them ;  tie  in  a 
muslin  bag  an  onion  or  two,  a  small  bundle  of  sweet  herbs,  a  few 
leaves  of  sweet  basil,  and  twenty  corns  of  allspice,  the  same  of  black 
pepper.  Let  it  simmer  till  the  giblets  are  tender,  then  take  them  out 
and  cover  up  close  while  you  thicken  the  gravy ;  remove  also  the  bag 
of  spice  and  herbs.  Make  some  force  meat  balls  as  follows:  when 
the  livers  are  done  enough  to  chop  fine,  take  them  out  or  part  of  them, 
pound  thnm  fine  with  half  their  weight  in  butter^  and  the  yolks  of 
three  haid-bniled  eggs;  season  with  salt,  cayenne,  nutmeg,  sage,  and 
onions,  scalded  and  chopped  very  fine,  and  also  a  leaf  or  two  of  sweet 
basil.  Mix  with  half  a  tea-cup  full  of  bread  crumb?,  wet  with  the 
yolk  of  an  v.gg^  and  make  up  into  little  balls  with  a  little  flour.  Hav- 
ing removed  iht  giblets,  thicken  the  soup  with  butter  and  flour,  and 
when  it  boils  add  the  balls;  let  them  simmer  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
then  add  a  glass  tjf  wine,  a  large  table-spoonful  of  catsup,  and  the 
juice  of  half  a  Seville  orange  or  lemon.  Put  in  the  giblets  to  warm 
through,  and  it  is  ready. 

84.  Kitchiner^s  cheap  Soup. — Wash  in  cold  water  four  ounces 
of  Scotch  barley,  and  put  into  five  qjarts  of  water,  with  four  ounceg 
of  sliced  onions;  boil  gently  one  hour,  and  pour  it  into  a  pan;  then 
put  into  a  saucepan  from  one  to  two  ounces  of  fresh  beef  or  mutton 
dripping.  Dripping  for  this  purpose  should  be  taken  out  of  the  pan 
as  fast  as  it  drips  from  the  meat;  if  suffered  to  remain  in  the  pan  it 
is  apt  to  become  rancid.  If  no  dripping  is  at  hand,  melted  suet  will 
do,  or  two  or  three  ounces  of  fat  bacon  minced  fine.  When  melted 
in  the  saucepan,  stir  into  it  four  ounces  of  oatmeal,  and  rub  them 
together  until  they  become  a  soft  paste.  Then  add,  by  degrees,  a 
spoonful  at  a  time,  the  barley  broth,  stirring  it  well  together  till  it 
boils.  For  seasoning,  put  in  a  tea-cup  or  basin  a  drachm  of  celery  or 
cress  seed,  or  half  a  drachm  of  each,  and  a  quarter  of  a  drachm  of 
cayenne,  finely  powdered,  or  a  drachm  and  a  half  of  black  pepper 
finely  powdered,  or  half  allspice;  mix  them  smooth  with  a  little  of 
the  soup;  then  stir  it  into  the  rest;  simmer  it  gently  another  quarter 
of  an  hour,  season  with  salt,  and  it  is  ready.  The  flavour  may  be 
varied  by  any  variety  of  herbs,  or  thickening  with  garlic  or  eschalot 
instead  of  celery;  a  larger  portion  of  onions,  or  carrots  and  turnips, 
or  rice,  or  paste,  instead  of  oatmeal  or  barley. 

85.  Soup  Maigre. — Divide  two  or  three  beads  of  celery,  two  large 
carrots,  three  or  four  moderate-sized  turnips,  some  onions,  two  young 
jtettuces,  a  handful  of  spinach  leaves,  and  a  little  sorrel.  Cut  the 
worst  half  of  the  vegetables  in  small  pieces,  and  put  them  into  the 


44  T  TI  E   COMPLETE    COOK. 

8tew-pan  with  three  ounces  of  bnttpr;  lot  them  fry  till  the  vno-otahlesd 
are  brown  and  the  butter  absorbed  ;  put  a  g^allon  of  boilino-  wa'or  info 
the  pan;  when  it  boils  fast,  skim  it  well,  stir  in  a    liLtie  flour,  and 
add  some  stale  crust  of  bread  ;  put  in  two  dozen  of  black  peppery  and 
the  same  of  allf^pice,  with  two  or  three  blades  of  mace;  let  it  simnier 
for  an  hour  and  a  half,  then  set  it  aside  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  tiiea 
strain  it  off  very  gently,  so  as  not  to  disturb  the  settlino-s  at  the  Kot«^ 
torn  of  the  stew-pan,  which  clean.     When  the  soup  has  stood  two? 
hours,  pour  it  back  again,  avoiding'  to  disturb  any  sediment,  if  any* 
should  escape  from  the  first  draining.     Cut  up  the  remainder  of  the.; 
vegetables  and  boil  them  in  water  live  minutes,  then  drain  them,  and 
when  the  soup  again  boils,  afy  them  to  it,  and  let  it  simmer  till  they 
are  tender,  which  will  be  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour;  season,! 
with  salt,  cayenne,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  catsup.     If  green  peas  aro:) 
in  season,  the  liquor  in  which  they  have  been  boiled,  added  to  the' 
soup,  is  a  great  improvement. 

86.  Mock  Turtle. — Have  the  head  and  broth  ready  for  the  soup 
the  day  befiire  it  is  to  be  eaten;  it  will  take  eight  hours  to  prepare  it 
properly.  Get  the  calf's  head  with  the  skin  on,  the  fresher  the  better, 
take  out  the  brains  and  wash  the  head  several  times  in  cold  water, 
let  it  soak  in  spring  water  for  an  hour,  then  lay  it  in  the  stew-pan, 
cover  it  with  cold  water,  and  half  a  gallon  over;  as  it  becomes  warm 
a  great  deal  of  scum  will  rise,  which  must  be  immediately  removed  ; 
let  it  boil  gently  for  one  hour,  then  take  it  up.  When  almost  cold 
cut  the  head  into  pieces  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long  and  an  inch' 
and  a  quarter  broad  ;  the  tongue  into  mouthfuls,  or  rather  make  a 
side  dish  of  the  tongue  and  brains.  When  the  hnad  is  taken  out,  put. 
in  about  five  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,  and  as  much  beef;  add  to  the^ 
stock  all  the  trimmings  and  bones  of  the  head;  skim  it  well,  then, 
cover  it  close,  let  it  boil  five  hours;  reserve  two  quarts  of  this  to. 
make  gravy  sauce,  then  strain  it  oft  and  let  it  stand  till  the  next 
morning;  then  take  olTtho  fat,  put  a  large  stew-pan  on  the  fire,  with 
half  a  pound  of  good  fresh  butter,  twelve  ounces  of  onions  sliced,  four 
ounces  of  green  sage  chopped ;  let  tliese  fry  one  hour;  rub  in  half  a 
pound  of  flour  by  degrees,  add  your  broth  till  it  i.s  the  thickness  of 
cream;  season  it  with  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  ground  allspice  and 
half  an  ounce  of  black  popper,  ground  very  fine,  salt  to  your  taste, 
add  the  rind  of  one  lem./n  peeled  very  thin  ;  let  it  simmer  very  gently 
for  one  hour  and  a  half,  then  strain  it  through  a  hair  sieve,  do  not  rub 
your  soup  to  get  it  through  the  sieve  or  it  will  make  it  grouty  ;  if  it 
do  not  run  through  easily,  knock  a  v.^ooden  spoon  atjainst  the  side  of 
the  sieve;  put  it  into  a  clean  stew-pan  with  the  head,  and  season  by 
adding,  to  each  gallon  of  soup,  half  a  pint  of  wine,  Madeira,  or  claret 
if  you  wish  it  dark;  two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  the  same  of 
catsup,  one  of  essence  of  anchovy,  a  tea-spoonful  of"  curry  powder,  or 
a  quarter  of  a  drachm  of  cayenne,  the  peel  of  a  lemon  pan-d  very  tliin. 
Let  it  simmer  gently  ti'l  the  meat  is  tender;  this  may  take  from  half 
an  hour  to  an  hour;  take  care  that  it  is  not  over-done;  stir  it  fre- 
quently to  prevent  the  meat  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  stew-pan  ; 


SOUPS     AND     BROTHS,     &C.  45 

Krien  the  meat  is  quite  done,  take  out  the  lemon  peel,  and  the  soup 
is  ready.     Serve  with  force  meat  stuffing-,  or  balls. 

87.  Carrot  Soup. — Wash  and  scrape  six  large  carrots,  peel  off  the 
red  outside  (which  is  the  only  part  used  for  this  soup),  put  it  into  a 
gallon  stew-pan,  with  one  head  of  celery,  and  an  onion  cut  into  thin 
pieces ;  take  two  quarts  of  veal,  beef,  or  mutton  broth,  put  the  broth 
to  the  roots,  cover  the  stew-pan  close,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  stove  for 
two  hours  and  a  half,  when  the  carrots  will  be  soft  enough;  put  in  a 
tea-cup  full  of  bread  crumbs,  boil  for  two  or  three  minutes,  rub  it 
through  a  tamis,  or  hair  sieve,  with  a  wooden  spoon,  add  broth,  and 
make  it  nearly  as  thick  as  pease  soup;  season  it  with  a  little  salt,  and 
send  it  up  with  some  toasted  bread,  cut  into  pieces  half  an  inch 
square.  The  celery  and  onions  should  be  sliced  and  fried  in  butter, 
or  nicely  clarified  dripping,  and  then  put  in  the  stew-pan  and  the 
broth  added  to  it.  Or  thus  :  Put  some  beef  bones  with  four  quarts  of 
liquor  in  which  a  leg  of  mutton  or  beef  has  been  boiled,  two  large 
onions,  a  turnip,  pepper  and  salt,  into  a  stew-pan,  and  stew  for  three 
hours;  have  ready  six  large  carrots  scraped,  and  cut  thin ;  strain  tha 
Boup  on  them,  stew  them  till  soft  enough  to  pulp  through  a  hair  sieve, 
or  a  coarse  cloth  ;  then  boil  the  pulp  with  the  soup,  which  is  to  be  as 
thick  as, pease  soup.  Make  the  soup  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  used; 
add  cayenne.  Pulp  only  the  red  part  of  the  carrot,  and  not  the  yel- 
low.    The  soup  is  better  made  with  a  shin  of  beef. 

88.  Curry  or  Mulligatawny  Soup. — Cut  four  pounds  of  a  breast 
of  veal  into  pieces  about  two  inches  long  and  one  inch  broad  ;  put  the 
trimmings  into  a  stew-pan  with  two  quarts  of  water,  with  twelve 
corns  of  black  pepper,  and  the  same  of  allspice;  when  it  boils  skim  it 
clean,  and  let  it  boil  an  hour  and  a  half;  then  strain  it  off;  while  it 
is  boiling,  fry  of  a  nice  brown  in  butter  the  bits  of  veal,  and  four 
onions;  when  they  are  done  put  the  broth  to  them,  put  it  on  the  fire; 
when  it  boils  skim  it  clean,  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour,  then  mix  two 
spoonfuls  of  curry,  and  the  same  of  flour,  with  a  little  cold  water,  and 
a  tea-sooonful  of  salt ;  add  these  to  the  soup,  and  simmer  it  till  the 
veal  i»  quite  tender,  and  it  is  ready ;  or  bone  a  couple  of  fowls  or  rab- 
bits, and  stew  them  the  same  as  veal,  and  you  may  put  in  a  bruised 
eschalot,  and  some  mace  and  ginger,  instead  of  black  pepper  and  all- 
spice. The  fowls  and  rabbits  should  be  cut  into  joints,  and  fried  of  a 
nice  brown  in  some  batter. 

89.  Eel  Soup. — To  make  a  tureen  full,  take  two  middling  sized 
onions,  cut  them  in  half,  and  cross  your  knife  over  them  two  or  three 
iimes;  put  two  ounces  of  butler  into  a  stew-pan ;  when  it  is  melted, 
put  in  the  onions,  stir  them  in  the  pan  till  they  are  of  a  light  brown; 
cut  into  pieces  three  pounds  of  unskinned  eels,  put  them  into  your 
stew-pan,  and  shake  them  over  the  fire  for  five  minutes;  then  add 
three  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  when  they  boil,  take  the  scum  off 
very  clean,  and  then  put  in  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  the  green  leaves 
(not  dried)  of  winter  savoury,  the  same  of  lemon-thyme,  and  twice 
the  quantity  of  parsley,  two  drachms  of  allspice,  the  same  of  black 
pepper ;  cover  it  close^  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  two  hours,  skim  it 

4 


46  THE   COMPLETE    COOK. 

clean  and  strain  it  off.  To  thicken  it,  put  three  ounces  of  butter  into 
a  clean  stew-pan ;  when  it  is  melted  stir  in  as  much  hour  as  wiil 
make  it  of  a  thick  paste,  then  add  the  liquid  by  degrees,  let  it  simmer 
for  ten  minutes,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  then  put  your  soup  on  in 
a  clean  stew-pan,  and  have  ready  some  little  square  pieces  of  fried 
fish  of  nice  light  brown — either  eels,  soles,  plaice,  or  skate,  win  do, 
the  fried  fish  should  be  added  about  ten  minutes  before  the  soup  is 
served  up.  Force  meat  balls  are  sometimes  added.  Excellent  fish- 
soup  may  be  made  of  cod's  head,  or  skate,  or  flounders,  boiled  in  no 

;inore  water  than  will  cover  them,  and  the  liquor  thicKened  wim 

jpatmeal,  &c. 

90.  Gourd  Soup  should  be  made  of  full-grown  gourds,  but  not 
those  that  have  hard  skins;  slice  three  or  four,  and  put  them  into  a 
etew-pan  with  two  or  three  onions  and  a  good  bit  of  butter,  set  thcra 
over  a  slow  fire  till  quite  tender,  be  careful  not  to  let  them  burn; 
then  add  two  ounces  of  crust  of  bread,  and  two  quarts  of  good  con- 
somme, season  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper ;  boil  ten  minutes  or  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  pass  it  through  a  tamia 
when  quite  hot.     Serve  up  with  fried  bread. 

91.  Game  Soup. — In  the  game  season  it  is  easy  to  make  very  good 
soup  at  a  little  expense,  by  taking  all  the  meat  off  the  breasts  of  any 
cold  birds  that  have  been  lefl  on  the  preceding  day,  and  pound  it  in  a 
mortar;  beat  to  pieces  the  legs  and  bones,  and  boil  in  some  broth  for 
an  hour ;  boil  six  turnips,  and  mash  them  and  strain  them  through  a 
tamis  cloth,  with  the  meat  that  has  been  pounded  in  a  mortar;  strain 
your  broth  and  put  a  little  of  it  at  a  time  into  the  tamis  to  help  you 
to  strain  all  of  it  through.  Put  your  soup  kettle  near  the  fire,  but  do 
not  let  it  boil.  When  ready  to  dish  your  dinner,  have  six  yolks  of 
eggs  mixed  with  half  a  pint  of  cream,  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve; 
put  your  soup  on  the  fire,  and  as  it  is  coming  to  boil,  put  in  the  eggs^ 
and  stir  it  well  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Do  not  let  it  boil,  or  it  will 
curdle. 

92.  Turnip  and  Parsnip  Soups  are  made  the  same  as  carrot  soupi 

93.  Celery  Soup — Split  six  heads  of  celery  into  slips  about  two 
inches  long;  wash  them  well,  lay  them  on  a  hair  sieve  to  drain,  and 
put  them  into  three  quarts  of  gravy  soup  in  a  gallon  soup  pot ;  set  it 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  to  stew  very  gently  till  the  celery  is  tender-— 
this  will  take  about  an  hour;  if  any  scum  rises,  take  it  off.  Season 
it  with  a  little  salt.  When  celery  cannot  be  procured,  half  a  drachm 
of  the  seed  pounded  fine  may  be  considered  as  the  essence  of  celery, 
which  may  be  had  very  cheap,  and  can  be  bought  at  any  season  ;  put 
this  in  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  the  soup  is  done,  and  a  little 
sugar  will  give  as  much  flavour  to  half  a  gallon  of  soup  as  two  heads 
of  celery — or  add  a  little  essence  of  celery. 

94.  Lamb  Stew.— Take  a  lamb's  head  and  lights,  and  wash  them ; 
remove  all  the  bones  and  skin  from  the  nose,  put  them  in  the  pot  with 
some  beef  stock  made  with  three  quarts  of  water  and  two  oounds  of 
shin  of  beef,  strained  ;  boil  very  slowly  for  an  hour,  wash  and  strin/j 
two  or  three  good  handfuls  of  spinach,  put  it  in  twenty  minutes  before 


SOUPS     AND     BROTHS,   &C.  47 

Berving-,  add  one  or  two  onions  and  a  little  parsley  a  short  time  before 
it  conres  off  the  fire ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  it  is  ready. 
Serve  all  together  in  a  tureen. 

95.  Hare,  Rabbit ,  or  Partridge  Soup. — When  hares  and  rabbits 
and  other  game  are  too  tough  to  eat  (in  the  ordinary  way  of  cooking,) 
they  will  make  very  good  soup.  Cut  off  the  legs  and  shoulders  of  a 
hare,  divide  the  body  crossways,  and  stew  very  gently  in  three  quarts 
of  water,  with  one  carrot,  about  one  ounce  of  onions,  two  blades  of 
pounded  mace,  four  cloves,  twenty-four  black  peppers,  and  a  bundle 
of  sweet  herbs;  stew  it  till  the  hare  is  tender.  Most  cooks  add  to  the 
above  two  slices  of  ham  or  bacon,  and  a  bay  leaf,  but  the  hare  makes 
sufficiently  savoury  soup  without  this  addition.  The  time  this  will 
take  depends  upon  the  age  and  time  it  has  been  kept  before  it  is 

.dressed ;  as  a  general  rule,  about  three  hours.  Make  a  dozen  and  a 
half  of  force  meat  balls,  as  big  as  nutmegs.  When  hare  is  tender, 
take  the  meat  off  the  back  and  upper  joints  of  the  legs ;  cut  it  into 
mouthfuls,  and  put  on  one  side ;  cut  the  rest  of  the  meat  off  the  legs, 
shoulders,  &c.,  mince  it  and  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  an  ounce  of 
butter,  and  two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  moistened  with  a  little 
60up;  rub  this  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  put  it  into  the  soup  to  thicken 
it ;  let  it  simmer  for  half  an  hour  longer,  skim  it  well,  and  put  it 
through  the  tamis  in  the  pan  again;  put  the  meat  in,  a  glass  of  port 
or  claret  wine,  with  a  table-spoonful  of  currant  jelly  to  each  quart  of 
soup.  Season  it  with  salt ;  put  in  the  force  meat  balls,  and  when  all 
is  hot,<he  soup  is  ready. 

96.  Portable  Soup. — The  fresher  the  meat  is  from  which  this 
article  is  made  the  better.  Shins  or  legs  of  beef  answer  very  well, 
and  you  may  add  trimmings  of  fresh  meat,  poultry,  or  game,  and  the 
liquor  in  which  a  leg  of  mutton,  or  a  knuckle  of  veal,  has  beenboiled. 
No  salt,  on  any  account,  must  be  used.  If  you  have  a  digester,  it 
should  be  used  for  this  article,  in  preference  to  a  closely  covered  stew- 
pan,  but  the  latter  will  do.  Just  cover  the  meat  with  cold  liquor,  and 
let  an  hour  at  least  be  occupied  in  coming  to  boil.  Skim  it,  and 
throw  in  cold  water  tv/o  or  three  times,  for  the  purpose  of  throwing 
up  the  scum,  which  must  be  carefully  removed.  When  thoroughly 
cleared  of  the  scum,  close  the  vessel,  and  let  it  boil  for  eight  or  ten 
hours.  Strain  through  a  hair  sieve  into  an  earthenware  pan,  and  let 
the  liquor  cool.  The  meat  will  do  for  potting.  Every  particle  of  fat 
must  be  removed  from  the  top,  and  the  gravy  put  into  a  well-tinned 
copper  stew-pan,  taking  care  that  the  sediment  is  separated  from  it; 
put  in  two  drachms  of  whole  black  pepper,  and  let  it  boil  briskly  with 
the  lid  off  over  a  quick  fire.  The  scum,  if  any,  should  of  course  be 
removed.  When  it  becomes  very  thick,  and  is  reduced  to  about  a 
quart,  put  it  into  a  smaller  stew-pan,  set  it  over  a  gentle  fire,  and  let 
it  simmer  till  reduced  to  the  consistence  of  very  thick  syrup.  It  must 
now  be  watched  every  moment.  Take  out  a  few  drops  oh  a  cold 
epoon  or  plate;  if  it  soon  sets  into  a  stiff  jelly,  it  is  done  enough.  If 
not,  boil  it  a  little  longer  till  it  does.  Have  ready  some  small  pots 
with  lids,  such  as  are  used  for  potting  meat ;  or  it  may  be  poured  cut 


48  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

on  a  large  flat  dish,  so  as  to  be  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep ;  when  cold, 
turn  it  out,  and,  with  a  paste  cutter,  divide  into  squares  ofhalf  an  ounce 
or  an  ounce  each.  Or  pour  it  into  the  round  parts  ofbasins  or  cups  turned 
upside  down.  Put  them  in  a  warm  room,  and  turn  them  frequently 
for  eight  or  ten  days,  then  they  will  be  thoroughly  dry  and  hardened 
like  glue.  Put  them  in  a  tin  box,  or  a  glass  case,  in  a  dry  place,  and 
they  will  keep  for  years.  If  ai  any  time  the  surface  appears  mouldy, 
wipe  it  off,  or  tlie  taste  will  penetrate  the  mass.  The  chief  use  of 
this  article  is  in  country  places,  or  at  sea,  where  fresh  meat  cannot 
be  obtained.  A  basin  of  broth,  soup  or  gravy  of  any  strength,  may  be 
had  in  five  minutes,  by  dissolving  one  or  more  of  these  cakes  in  boil- 
ing water;  any  llavouring  ingredients  may  be  added  at  pleasure.  See 
Flavouring. 

97.  Green  Turtle  Soup. — This  recipe  has  been  collated  from  the 
best  authorities,  to  which  is  added  our  own  experience.  The  day  be- 
fore you  wish  to  serve  up  the  soup  it  will  be  necessary  to  cut  off'  the 
head  of  your  turtle,  and  place  it  in  a  positio'*  to  allow  all  the  blood  to 
be  drained  from  it.  The  next  morning  open  t.'  e  turtle,  being  careful  to 
do  so  without  breaking  the  gall.  After  cutting  all  around  the  upper 
and  lower  shell,  drain  the  water  off,  divide  the  meat  in  small  pieces, 
and  wash  clean  and  carefully.  Then  put  the  shells  in  a  large  pot  of 
boiling  water,  where  you  let  them  remain  until  you  find  they  separate 
from  the.  flesh  readily;  but  no  longer,  as  the  softer  parts  must  be 
tKHled  again.  Keep  the  liquor  and  stew  the  bones  thoroughly  ;  after 
which  it  is  to  be  used  for  moistening  the  broth.  The  flesh  of. the  in- 
terior parts,  and  the  four  legs  and  head,  must  be  cooked  in  the  follow- 
hig  manner.  Mask  the  bottom  of  a  large  stew-pan  with  slices  of  ham, 
over  which  lay  two  or  three  knuckles  of  veal,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  turtle;  and  over  the  veal  place  the  inside  flesh  of  the  turtle,  co. 
vering  the  whole  with  the  other  parts  of  the  turtle.  Add  to  it  about 
a  gallon  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  bones  were  stewed,  and  place  on 
the  fire  until  thoroughly  done,  which  you  must  ascertain  by  sticking 
your  knife  into  the  fleshy  part  of  the  meat;  and  if  no  blood  issue 
from  it,  add  another  gallon  of  the  liquor.  Then  throw  in  a  bunch  of 
the  stalks  of  sweet  marjoram,  lemon  thyme,  bay  leaves,  savoury,  com- 
mon thyme,  and  sweet  basil ;  also  a  l)andful  of  parsley  and  green 
onions,  and  a  large  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  and  a  few  grains  of  pep- 
per. Let  the  whole  stew  until  thoroughly  done,  say  from  three  to 
four  hours.  The  leaves  of  the  herbs  are  to  be  used  for  making  a  sauce,  ^ 
to  be  described  hereafter.  When  the  larger  portions  of  the  turtle  are 
done,  place  them  aside  to  be  used  when  wanted.  When  the  flesh  is 
also  thoroughly  done,  drain  on  a  dish,  and  make  a  white  thickening 
very  thin,  and  add  to  it  through  a  tamis  some  portion  of  the  liquor 
of  the  bones,  and  place  on  the  fire  until  it  boils ;  and,  having  arrived 
at  the  proper  consistency,  neither  too  thick  nor  too  thin,  set  the  stew- 
nan  on  the  side  of  the  stove,  and  skim  off  all  the  white  scum  and  fat 
that  arises  to  the  surface.  Then  cut  the  softer  parts — green  fat  and 
white  meat- — into  dice  of  about  an  inch  square  (without  any  waste,) 
and  add  to  the  sauce,  which  must  be  allowed  to  simmer  gently  unli 


BROTHS  OR  STOCKS,  GLAZE,  &C.     49 

eufficiently  done,  when  it  must  be  taken  off,  at  the  same  time  skini' 
ming  it  carefully.  Then  take  the  leaves  of  the  sweet  basil,  sweet 
marjoram,  lemon  thyme,  common  thyme  and  winter  savoury,  together 
with  a  handful  of  parsley,  some  green  onions,  a  large  onion  cut  in 
four  pieces,  with  a  few  leaves  of  mace ;  put  the  whole  in  a  stew-pan 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter.  Let  this  simmer  on  a  slow  fire 
until  melted,  and  add  a  bottle  of  Madeira  and  a  small  lump  of  sugar, 
and  boil  gently  for  an  hour.  Then  rub  it  through  a  tamis,  and  add 
to  your  sauce,  which  you  must  boil  until  no  white  scum  arises;  then 
with  a  skimmer  drain  out  all  the  bits  of  turtle,  and  put  them  into  a 
clean  stew-pan,  and  pass  the  sauce  through  a  tamis  into  the  stew- 
pan  containing  the  turtle,  and  proceed  as  follows.  Take  out  the  fleshy 
part  of  a  leg  of  veal,  say  about  one  pound,  scrape  off  all  the  meat 
without  leavmg  any  of  the  fat  or  sinews  in  it,  and  soak  in  about  the 
same  quantity  (one  pound)  of  crumbs  of  bread,  which,  when  well 
soaked,  squeeze  and  put  into  a  mortar  with  the  veal,  a  small  quantity 
of  calfs  udder,  a  little  butter,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  hard  boiled,  a  lit- 
tle cayenne  pepper,  salt  and  spices,  and  pound  the  whole  very  fine. 
Then  thicken  the  mixture  with  two  whole  eggs,  and  the  yolk  of  a 
third ;  and,  to  try  its  consistency,  put  it  in  boiling  hot  water ;  if  you 
find  It  too  thin,  add  the  yolk  of  another  egg.  When  it  is  perfected* 
take  one  half  of  it,  and  add  some  chopped  parsley.  Cook  it  and  roll 
into  balls  the  size  of  the  yolk  of  an  egg ;  poach  them  in  boiling  wa- 
ter with  a  little  salt,  Th?  other  half  must  be  made  also  into  balls, 
and  place  the  whole  on  a  sieve  to  drain.  Before  serving  your  soup, 
squeeze  the  juice  of  two  or  three  lemons,  with  a  little  cayenne  pep- 
per, and  pour  it  into  the  soup.  The  fins  maybe  served  as  a  side  dish, 
with  a  little  turtle  sauce.  When  lemon  juice  is  used,  be  careful  that 
the  lemons  are  good ;  a  musty  lemon  will  spoil  all  the  turtle,  and 
too  much  will  destroy  its  flavour. 

98.  Irish  Slew. — Take  two  pounds  of  potatoes;  peel  and  slice,  and 
parboil,  and  throw  away  the  water;  rather  more  than  two  pounds  of 
mutton  chops,  either  from  the  loin  or  neck ;  part  of  the  fat  should  be 
taken  off;  beef  two  pounds,  six  large  onions  sliced,  a  slice  of  ham,  or 
lean  bacon,  a  spoonful  of  pepper,  and  two  of  salt.  This  stew  may  be 
done  in  a  stew-pan  over  the  fire,  or  in  a  baker's  oven,  or  in  a  close 
covered  earthen  pot.  First  put  a  layer  of  potatoes,  then  a  layer  of 
meat  and  onions,  sprinkle  the  seasoning,  then  a  layer  of  potatoes,  and 
again  the  meat  and  onions  and  seasoning ;  the  top  layer  should  be  po- 
tatoes, and  the  vessel  should  be  quite  full.  Then  put  in  half  a  pin 
of  good  gravy,  and  a  spoonful  of  mushroom  catsup.  Let  the  whol . 
stew  for  an  hour  and  a  half;  be  very  careful  it  does  not  burn. 

BROTHS  OR  STOCKS,  GLAZE  AND  GRAVIES. 

These  articles  are  all  nearly  allied  to  each  other,  differing  princi» 

pally  in  degrees  of  strength.     In  extensive  establishments,  a  large 

quantity  of  stock,  both  brown  and  white,  is  constantly  kept.     Stocks 

are  distinguished  by  the  names  of  first  stock,  or  long  broth, — in  tho 

4* 


60  1  H  E    C  O  M  r  L  E  T  E     COOK.      '  OA  li 

French  kitchen,  "  le  ^rand  bouillon'' — second  stock,  in  French,  **juM 
de  hoeuf,'' — and  jelly  slock,  in  French,  '*  consommeJ"  In  preparing  a 
regular  dinner,  they  will  all  be  found  exceedingly  useful.  The  ma- 
terials for  the  making  of  stocks  will  not  cost  much,  if  the  cook  does 
her  duty.  In  such  case,  she  will  take  great  care  of  all  the  trimmings 
of  meal,  and  the  necks,  heads,  gizzards,  feet,  &c.,  of  game  and  poul- 
try. Boiled  and  roast  meat  gravy  not  used  ought  to  be  carefully 
collected  and  kept.  The  author  of  "  The  Housekeeper'' s  Guide,''* 
says,  "  We  should  recommend  the  cook  when  she  sets  away  after  the 
dinner  the  meat  on  clean  dishes,  to  collect  in  one  basin  every  drop  of 
roast  meat  giavy ;  in  another,  every  drop  of  boiled  meat  gravy  ;  and 
in  another,  every  little  bit  of  trimming  of  dressed  meat,  and  pour  over 
It  some  hot  liquor,  in  which  meat  has  been  boiled,  or  hot  water.  Next 
morning,  when  she  prepares  meat  for  dressing,  let  her  collect  all  the 
little  trimming  bits,  and  boil  them  with  the  liquor  and  bits  set  by  the 
day  before.  This  may  be  done  before  the  fire  is  wanted  for  other 
purposes.  Thus  she  will  always  have  gravy  in  store  for  every  emer- 
gency. Then  if  she  have  white  sauce  to  prepare,  such  as  celery  or 
oyster  sauce,  parsley  and  butler,  or  caper  sauce,  the  cold  boiled  meat 
gravy  (which  she  will  most  likely  find  a  stiff"  jelly)  will  form  an  ex- 
cellent basis  for  it,  much  more  rich  and  relishing  than  water.  If  she 
wants  good  brown  gravy  for  roast  meat,  or  fried,  the  cold  roast  meat 
gravy  will  enrich  and  colour  the  stock  or  store  gravy,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  any  flavouring  that  may  be  required.  Good  managers,  who 
attend  to  this  every  day,  do  not  know  what  it  is  to  be  distressed  for 
gravy,  or  running  to  the  butcher's  for  gravy  beef."  The  cook,  we 
must  add,  should  be  careful  to  have  her  broth  or  stock  clear,  and 
devoid  of  fat,  which,  eaten  by  itself,  that  is,  unincorporated  with 
farinaceous  or  vegetable  substances,  is  very  indigestible,  yielding 
little  or  no  nourishment,  but  when  so  incorporated,  fat  becomes  very 
nutritious  and  wholesome — more  so  indeed,  according  to  some  writers, 
than  lean  meat. 

99.  First  Stock,  or  Beef  Broth,  <SfC. — Wash  a  leg  or  shin  of  beef 
very  clean ;  let  the  butcher  crack  the  bone  in  two  or  three  places, 
and  take  out  the  marrow ;  add  meat  trimmings,  and  heads,  necks, 
gizzards,  feet,  &c.,  of  game  and  poultry ;  cover  them  with  cold  water ; 
■watch  and  stir  up  well,  and  the  moment  the  simmering  commences 
skim  it  very  clear  of  all  the  scum.  Then  add  some  cold  water,  which 
will  make  the  remaining  scum  rise,  and  skim  it  again.  No  fat  should 
enter  into  the  composition  of  brotli  of  this  description,  nor  indeed  of 
any  other,  unless  incorporated  with  meal  by  way  of  thickening. 
Stock  should  be  quite  clear  and  limpid.  When  the  surface  of  the 
broth  is  quite  clear,  put  in  carrots,  turnips,  celery,  and  onions,  accord- 
ing to  the  quantity.  Some  persons  direct  one  moderate  sized  carrot, 
a  head  of  celery,  two  turnips,  and  two  onions.  But  this  is  a  very 
poor  criterion  as  to  the  quantity  which  ought  to  be  used  of  these 
vegetables,  which  differ  so  much  in  size.  No  taste  of  sweet  herbsf, 
spice,  &c.,  should  be  given  to  the  stock.  After  the  vegetables  are 
added,  cover  it  close,  and  set  it  by  the  sido  of  the  fire, 'and  let  it  sim- 


BROTHS  OR  STOCKS,  GLAZE,  &C.     51 

mer  very  g^ently,  not  wasting  the  broth,  for  four  or  five  hours,  or 
more,  according  to  the  weight  of  the  meat.  Strain  through  a  sieve 
into  a  clean,  dry  stone  pan,  and  put  it  in  a  cold  place,  for  use.  Thia 
is  the  basis  for  all  sorts  of  soup  ami  sauce,  whether  brown  or  white. 
The  meat  may  be  used  for  immediate  food,  or  for  making  potted  beef 
— that  is,  if  it  be  not  overdone  to  rags. 

100.  The  following  method  has  been  adopted  in  the  kitchen  of  tho 
reviser  for  several  years  past,  and  is  inserted  as  being  more  concise 
than  the  English  plan:  — Put  in  a  large  boiler,  of  the  capacity  of  six 
or  seven  gallons,  two  large  skins  of  beef;  a  small  piece  of  the  rump 
of  about  five  pounds  ;  five  gallons  of  water,  and  two  handsf^^  of  salt ; 
place  the  pot  on  the  fire,  and  before  it  commences  to  boil,  and  whilst 
boiling,  skim  it  carefully  and  frequently,  adding  a  little  cold  water  to 
bring  up  the  scum  completely.  When  you  find  no  more  scum  rising 
to  the  top,  add  three  large  carrots,  three  turnips,  and  three  onions 
with  six  cloves  stuck  in  them  (that  is,  two  cloves  in  each  onion),  and 
let  it  boil  for  four  or  five  hours.  Before  using  it,  skim  all  the  fat  oflf 
the  top,  and  strain  it  through  a  double  sieve.  If  the  beef  is  to  be  used, 
let  it  be  taken  out  of  the  pot  when  cooked,  and  pour  over  it  a  little  of 
the  top  of  the  broth,  to  keep  it  moist  until  it  may  be  wanted,  when 
you  can  serve  it  with  such  sauce  as  you  may  fancy.  For  a  family  it 
will  be  necessary  to  make  the  broth  about  once  a  week,  but  great 
care  should  be  taken  to  keep  a  portion  always  on  hand. 

101.  Second  Stock  may  be  made  from  the  meat  left  after  straining 
the  first  stock  off,  by  covering  it  with  water,  and  by  letting  it  go  on 
boiling  for  four  or  five  hours.  This  stock  will  produce  good  glaze,  or 
portable  soup  (see  316). 

102.  Glaze  is  a  strong  gravy  boiled  as  quick  as  possible  till  it 
/hickens,  as  directed  in  braising  (see  316). 

103.  Beef  Gravy,  sometimes  called  second  stock,  or  in  French  jus 
de  boeuf,  is  thus  made : — Take  a  slice  of  good  lean  ham,  or  lean  bacon, 
four  or  five  pounds  of  gravy  beef,  cut  into  eight  or  ten  pieces,  a  car- 
rot, an  onion  with  two  cloves  stuck  in  it,  and  a  head  of  celery.  Cover 
the  bottom  of  a  clean  well-tinned  stew-pan  with  these  things,  putting 
in  the  ham  first,  and  then  put  a  pint  of  stock,  or  water;  cover  close; 
set  over  a  moderate  fire  till  the  water  is  so  reduced  as  to  just  save 
the  ingredients  from  burning,  then  turn  it  all  about  and  let  it  brown 
slightly  and  equally  all  over.  You  must  put  in  three  quarts  of  boiling 
water  just  at  the  moment  the  meat  has  obtained  its  proper  colour ; 
if  it  is  suffered  to  burn,  the  gravy  will  have  a  bad  taste,  and  if  the 
water  is  put  in  too  soon  the  gravy  will  want  flavour.  When  it  boils 
up,  skim  carefully  and  clean  the  sides  of  the  stew-pan  with  a  cloth. 
The  gravy  ought  to  be  delicately  clean  and  clear.  Set  it  by  the  side 
of  a  fire,  and  stew  gently  for  about  four  hours;  strain  through  a  tamis 
sieve,  skim  it  careftilly,  and  put  it  in  a  cold  place.  If  well  managed, 
that  is,  not  boiled  too  fust,  it  will  yield  two  quarts  of  good  gravy. 

104.  Gravy  for  Roast  Meat. — Take  the  trimmings  off  the  joint 
you  are  about  to  cook,  which  will  make  half  a  pint  of  plain  gravy. 
Colour  by  adding  a  few  drops  of  burnt  sugar. '  If  you  do  not  wish  to 


52  THECOMPLETECOOK. 

make  gravy  in  this  way,  about  half  an  hour  before  the  meat  is  done 
mix  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt  with  a  full  quarter  of  a  pint  of  boiling 
water :  drop  this  by  degrees  on  the  brown  parts  of  the  meat,  set  a 
dish  under  to  catch  it,  and  set  it  by ;  the  meat  will  soon  brown  again. 
When  the  gravy  you  have  made  is  cold  take  the  fat  from  the  surface, 
and  when  the  meat  is  done,  warm  up  the  gravy  and  put  it  in  the  dish. 
Or  you  may  make  good  browning  for  roast  meat  by  saving  the  browa 
bits  of  boiling  or  roast  meat:  cut  them  small,  put  them  into  a  basin 
and  cover  them  with  boiling  water,  and  put  them  away ;  next  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  and  boil  two  or  three  minutes,  then  strain  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  put  by  for  use.  When  you  want  gravy  for  use 
put  two  table-spoonsful  in  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  with  a 
little  salt.  If  for  roasted  veal,  put  three  table-spoonsful  into  half  a 
pint  of  thin  melted  butter.  The  gravy  which  remains  in  the  dish 
after  the  family  has  dined  should  be  put  by  to  enrich  hashes  or  little 
made  dishes. 

105.  Gravy  for  Boiled  Meat  is  nothing  more  than  a  tea-cup  full 
of  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  has  been  boiled,  carefully  skimmed 
and  free  from  fat. 

106.  Gravy  for  Roast  Veal.  —  Make  in  the  same  way  as  for  any 
other  roast  meat,  and  make  a  tea-cup  full  of  thick  melted  butter,  or 
melt  the  butter  in  the  gravy.  The  same  gravy  for  target  or  loin  of 
lamb. 

107.  Rich  brown  Gravy  for  Poultry^  Ragout,  or  Game. — If  your 
stock  or  store  gravy  is  poor,  to  enrich  it  add  one  pound  of  meat  to  one 
pint  of  your  store  gravy ;  cut  the  meat  clear  from  the  bones,  chop  it 
up  as  fine  as  mince  meat,  chop  also  one  ounce  of  ham,  or  gammon, 
unless  you  have  by  you  the  gravy  that  has  settled  in  the  dish  from  a 
ham.  Lay  at  the  bottom  of  the  stew-pan  one  ounce  of  butter,  an 
onion  sliced,  and  the  chopped  meat ;  cover  it  close,  and  set  it  on  a 
clear,  slow  fire ;  move  it  about  to  prevent  it  sticking.  When  the 
gravy  draws,  and  the  meat  is  rather  brown,  add  by  degrees  the 
liquor ;  when  it  boils,  pui  in  the  bones  of  the  meat,  chickens'  head 
and  feet ;  and  when  it  boils  again  carefully  skim  it.  Add  a  crust  of 
bread  toasted  brown,  a  sprig  of  winter  savoury,  or  lemon  thyme  and 
parsley,  a  dozen  berries  of  allspice,  a  strip  of  lemon  peel,  and  a  dozen 
black  peppercorns;  cover  it  close  and  keep  it  boiling  gently  till  it  is 
reduced  to  half;  when  cold,  take  off  all  the  fat  and  thicken  it  with 
the  following  thickening:  Melt  a  piece  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  ;  lake 
out  all  the  buttermilk  that  may  be  at  the  top,  then  sprinkle  flour  into 
it,  shaking  it  all  the  time :  make  it  a  thick  paste,  and  stir  this  into 
your  gravy  boiling. 

SAUCES. 

These  are  a  very  numerous  class  of  condiments,  particularly  in 
French  cookery.  Foreigners  say  that  the  English  have  only  one  sauce 
(melted  butter)  for  vegetables,  fish,  flesh,  and  all  other  eatables  requir- 
ing sauce  —  and  they  add,  with  some  truth,  that  they  seldom  make 


SAUCES.  53 

it  good.     It  certainly  is  a  very  general  sauce,  botn  m  England  and 
the  United  States ;  and,  therefore,  we  shall  begin  our  recipes  with 

108.  Melted  Butter  cannot  be  made  good  with  mere  flour  and 
water.  Dr.  Kitchiner  says,  that  he  has  tried  every  way  of  making 
this  sauce,  and  gives  it  as  his  opinion  that  the  following,  if  carefully 
observed,  will  be  always  found  to  give  satisfaction :  Cut  two  ounces 
of  butter  into  little  bits,  put  it  into  a  clean  stew-pan,  with  a  large  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour,  arrow-root,  or  potatoe  starch,  and  add  two  table- 
spoonsful  of  milk ;  when  thoroughly  mixed,  add  six  table-spoonsful  of 
water,  hold  it  over  the  fire,  and  shake  it  round  the  same  way  every 
minute,  till  it  begins  to  simmer  ;  then  let  it  boil  up.  This  is  a  good 
recipe  for  melted  butter  where  it  is  not  intended  to  be  used  with  acids 
or  wine,  which  will  have  the  effect  of  curdling  the  milk.  Pure  water 
is  best  when  the  melted  butter  is  intended  for  fish  and  puddings,  to 
which  any  mixture  of  wine  is  intended.  Clear  stock  or  gravy,  instead 
of  water,  is  preferable  when  it  is  intended  to  be  eaten  with  roast  meat, 
or  for  vegetables  to  be  eaten  with  roast  meat.  The  old-fashioned 
method  of  mixing  is  as  good  as  the  Doctor's.  It  is  as  follows :  Break 
up  the  butter  on  a  trencher,  and  work  the  flour  into  it  thoroughly, 
then  add  it  to  the  cold  liquid  in  the  saucepan ;  or  you  may  drop  the 
flour,  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  it  is  set  on  the  fire,  on  the  top  of 
the  liquid,  without  stirring  at  all ;  when  the  flour  has  all  sunk  to  the 
bottom,  shake  it  round  till  the  flour  is  well  incorporated  with  the 
liquid  ;  then  add  the  butter,  and  melt  over  a  clear  brisk  rire.  Fresh, 
rich  cream  is  sometimes  used  instead  of  milk,  water,  or  grav3r.  You 
should  take  care  that  your  saucepan  for  melted  butter  be  always  well 
tinned,  and  ke-pt  delicately  clean.  Some  recommend  a  silver  sauce- 
pan ;  but  this  seems  to  us  to  be  a  stupid  piece  of  extravagance.  Dr. 
Kitchiner,  however,  who  talks  a  great  deal  about  economy,  gravely 
tells  us  that  a  pint  silver  saucepan  will  not  cost  more  than  four  or 
five  pounds !  Melted  butter  is  frequently  spoilt  in  the  making ;  for 
ordinary  purposes  it  should  be  of  the  thickness  of  good  cream,  but 
when  intended  to  be  mixed  with  flavouring,  it  should  be  of  the  thick- 
ness of  light  batter.  If  by  any  chance  it  become  oiled,  put  a  spoonful 
of  cold  water  to  it,  and  stir  it  with  a  spoon,  or  pour  it  back  and  for- 
wards till  it  is  right  again.  By  mixing  such  vegetables  as  parsley, 
chervil,  and  others,  generally  eaten  with  melted  butter,  and  sending 
them  to  the  table  on  a  little  plate,  those  who  like  their  flavour  may 
mix  for  themselves.  In  the  same  way,  all  descriptions  of  flavouring 
essences,  such  as  catsup,  anchovy,  &c.,  &,c.,  may  be  mixed  at  table. 
This  plan  will  be  found  to  be  a  great  saving  in  butter. 

109.  Sauce  for  Fricassee  of  Fowls,  Rabbits,  while  Meat,  Fish,  or 
Vegetables. — You  have  no  occasion  to  buy  meat  for  these  sauces,  as 
their  flavour  is  but  small.  The  liquor  that  has  boiled  fowls,  veal,  or 
rabbit,  or  a  little  broth  that  you  may  have  by  you,  or  the  feet  and 
necks  of  chickens,  or  raw  or  dressed  veal,  will  do  very  well.  Stew 
with  a  little  water  any  of  these,  add  to  it  an  onion  sliced,  a  bit  of  le- 
mon peel,  a  little  pounded  mace  or  nutmeg,  some  white  peppercorns, 
and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  until  the  flavour  is  good ;  then  strain  it, 


54  THE   COMPLETE   COOK. 

and  add  a  little  good  cream,  a  piece  of  butter,  and  a  little  flour;  salt 
to  your  taste.  A  squeeze  of  lemon  may  be  added  after  the  sauce  is 
taken  from  the  fire,  shaking  it  well.  Yolk  of  egg  is  frequently  used 
in  fricassee,  but  if  you  have  cream  it  is  better,  as  the  egg  is  apt  to 
curdle. 

110.  Sauce  for  cold  Fowl,  or  Partridge. — Boil  two  eggs  hard,  rub 
them  down  in  a  mortar  with  an  anchovy,  two  dessert  spoonfuls  of  oil, 
three  of  vinegar,  an  eschalot,  cayenne  (sometimes,)  and  a  tea-sppon- 
ful  of  mustard.  All  should  be  pounded  before  the  oil  is  added  ;  then 
strain  it;  eschalot  vinegar  instead  of  eschalots  eats  well;  if  so,  omit 
one  spoonful  of  the  common  vinegar:  salt  to  your  taste. 

111.  A  very  rich  Mushroom  Sauce  for  Fowls  or  Rabbits. — Pick, 
rub  and  wash  a  pint  of  young  mushrooms,  and  sprinkle  with  salt  to 
take  off  the  skin.  Put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  salt,  a 
blade  of  mace,  a  little  nutmeg,  a  pint  of  cream,  and  apiece  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour:  boil  them  up  and  stir  till  done,  then  pour  it  into  the 
dish  with  the  chickens ;  garnish  with  lemon.  If  you  cannot  get  fresh 
mushrooms,  use  pickled  ones,  done  white,  with  a  little  mushroom  pow- 
der with  the  cream. 

112.  Sauce  for  boiled  Carp,  or  Boiled  Turkey. — Make  some  melted 
butter  with  a  little  water  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour,  and  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pint  of  cream,  half  an  anchovy  not  washed,  chopped  fine;  set  it 
over  the  fire,  and  as  it  boils  up,  add  a  large  spoonful  of  Indian  soy: 
if  that  does  not  give  it  a  fine  colour,  put  a  little  more;  add  a  little 
salt,  and  half  a  lemon  ;  stir  it  well  to  prevent  it  curdling. 

113.  Green  Sauce  for  green  Geese  or  Ducklings. — A  glass  of 
white  wine,  some  scalded  gooseberries,  a  pint  of  sorrel  juice,  some 
white  sugar,  and  a  bit  of  butter.     Boil  them  up,  and  serve  in  a  boat. 

114.  Egg  Sauce. — Boil  the  eggs  hard,  chop  thera  fine,  then  put 
them  into  melted  butter. 

115.  Onion  Sauce. — Take  the  skins  off  ripe  onions,  remove  the 
rooty  fibres  and  the  tops,  let  them  lie  in  salt  and  water  an  hour,  then 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  them  till  they  are 
tender.  You  should  allow  them  plenty  of  water.  When  tender, 
skin  them,  cut  them  exceedingly  small,  or  rub  them  through  a  colan- 
der ;  season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  mix  with  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  thick  melted  butter.  This  sauce  is  usually  eaten  with  shoulder 
or  leg  of  mutton.  If  you  wish  it  very  mild,  use  the  large  silvery 
onions,  and  boil  them  in  several  waters.  Onion  sauce  is  also  eaten 
with  rabbits,  boiled  ducks,  tripe,  and  sometimes  with  a  scrag  of  mut- 
ton or  veal. 

116.  Apple  Sauce. — Take  four  or  five  juicy  apples,  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  cold  water  or  cider;  instead  of  putting  the  lid  on,  place  the 
parings  over  the  apples,  and  put  them  by  a  gentle  fire.  When  they 
sir.k  they  are  done;  remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire,  and  beat  up 
tne  apples;  take  the  parings  from  the  top  first,  add  a  bit  of  butter,  a 
tea-spoonful  of  fine  powdered  sugar,  and  a  dust  of  nutmeg. 

117.  Gooseberry  Sauce. — Scald  half  a  pint  of  green  gooseberries; 
do  them  till  they  are  tender,  but  not  broken  ;  drain  them  on  a  sieve ; 


SAUCES.  65 

when  the  liquor  is  cold,  take  half  a  pint  of  it,  and  make  a  thick  batter 
of  it,  stir  in  the  gooseberries  with  a  little  grated  ginger  and  lemon 
peel.     This  sauce  is  soaaetimes  used  for  mackerel. 

118.  Wow  wow  Sauce,  for  stewed  beef  or  bouilli.  Quarter  and 
elice  two  or  three  pickled  cucumbers  or  walnuts,  or  part  of  each,  chop 
fine  a  handful  of  parsley,  make  some  melted  butter  in  half  a  pint  of 
broth  in  which  the  beef  is  boiled,  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  made  mustard 
and  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar,  and  the  same  of  port  wine  and  mush- 
room catsup:  let  it  simmer  till  thick,  then  stir  in  the  parsley  and 
pickles  to  get  warm  ;  pour  the  whole  over  the  beef,  or  put  in  a  sauce 
tureen.  The  flavour  may  be  varied  by  a  tea-spoonful  or  two  of  any 
kind  of  the  vinegars. 

119.  Curry  Sauce  is  made  by  putting  a  little  powdered  curry  into 
eome  melted  butter,  or  curry  vinegar. 

120.  Parsley  and  Butter. — Wash  and  pick  leaf  by  leaf  some  pars- 
ley ;  put  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  into  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  boil 
tlie  parsley  about  ten  minutes;  drain  it  on  a  sieve,  mince  it  quite  fine, 
and  then  bruise  it  to  a  pulp:  put  it  into  a  sauce  boat,  and  mix  with  it 
by  degrees  about  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter.  Never  pour  parsley 
and  butter  over  boiled  things,  but  send  up  in  a  boat. 

121.  Fennel  and  Butter  for  Mackerel  is  prepared  in  the  same  way 
as  parsley  and  butter. 

122.  Plum  Pudding  Sauce. — A  glass  of  sherry,  half  a  glass  of 
brandy,  cherry  bounce  or  Cura^oa,  or  essence  of  punch,  and  two  tea- 
gpoonfuls  of  pounded  lump  sugar  (a  very  little  grated  lemon  peel  is 
sometimes  added,)  in  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  thick  melted  butter :  grate 
nutmeg  on  the  top. 

123.  Anchovy  Sauce. — Pound  three  anchovies  in  a  mortar  with  a 
bit  of  butter ;  rub  it  through  a  double  hair  sieve  with  the  back  of  a 
wooden  spoon,  and  stir  it  into  about  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  or  stir 
in  a  table-spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy.  Many  cooks  add  cayenne 
and  lemon  juice. 

124.  Caper  Sauce. — Take  a  table-spoonful  of  capers,  and  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar;  mince  one-third  of  them  very  fine,  and  divide  the 
others  in  half;  put  them  in  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  or 
good  thickened  gravy  ;  stir  the  same  way  as  you  do  melted  butter,  or 
it  will  oil.  Sometimes  half  a  Seville  orange  or  lemon  or  parsley, 
chervil,  or  tarragon,  are  added. 

125.  3Iock  Caper  Sauce. — Take  French  beans,  gherkins,  green 
peas,  or  nasturtiums,  all  pickled  ;  cut  them  into  bits  the  size  of  capers ; 

f»ut  them  into  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter;  add  two  tea-spoonfuls  of 
emon  juice  or  vinegar. 

126.  Shrimp  Sauce. — Shell  a  pint  of  shrimps,  and  stir  into  half  a 
pint  of  melted  butter ;  a  little  cream  makes  a  delicate  addition.  It  is 
used  with  salmon,  turbot,  and  soles. 

127.  Oyster  Sauce — Two  dozen  oysters  will  make  half  a  pint  of 
sauce,  not  more.  Open  the  oysters,  save  all  the  liquor,  perfectly  free 
from  bits  of  shell,  scald  the  oysters  in  the  liquor  till  they  look  plump, 
then  take  out  the  fish  and  add  to  the  liquor  two  ounces  of  butter  rolled 


50  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

in  flour,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cream ;  boil  it  up.  Take  off  the 
beards  or  frino^y  part  of  the  oysters;  if  they  are  large,  cut  them  in 
two;  stir  them  in  the  butter,  and  set  them  by  the  fire  for  a  minute  or 
two,  but  do  not  let  them  boil,  as  it  hardens  them. 

128.  Lobster  Sauce. — Choose  a  hen  lobster,  pick  out  all  the  spawn 
and  red  coral  that  runs  down  the  back,  pound  it  to  a  paste  with  a 
lump  of  butter,  pull  the  meat  of  the  back  and  claws  to  pieces  with 
two  forks,  stir  the  lobster  into  some  boilins^  hot  melted  butter ;  keep 
it  on  the  fire  till  the  lobster  is  warmed  through,  and  well  mixed. 
You  may  add,  if  liked,  catsup,  lemon  juice,  cayenne,  anchovy  ;  but  the 
simple  flavour  of  the  lobster  is  best.  A  little  cream  is  an  improve- 
ment. 

129.  Liver  Sauce. — Scald  the  liver,  clear  away  all  the  fibres  and 
specky  parts,  pound  it  in  a  mortar,  with  a  bit  of  butter,  then  boil  it  up 
with  melted  butter;  season  it  with  cayenne,  and  a  squeeze  of  lemon 
juice.     You  may  add  catsup  or  anchovy. 

180.  Bread  Sauce  is  either  made  with  gravy  or  milk.  Stew  the 
heads,  necks,  and  feet  of  the  poultry  tor  which  it  is  intended,  with  an 
onion,  a  little  allspice,  and  a  few  peppercorns;  when  reduced  to  half 
a  pint,  strain  it  and  boil  up  again  ;  put  in  a  small  tea-cup  full  of  bread 
crumbs,  let  it  boil  till  quite  stifl',  hold  it  over  the  fire  and  shake  it  till 
it  boils  thoroughly,  then  put  it  on  the  hob  till  time  to  serve;  stir  in  a 
bit  of  salt,  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cream. 

1.'31.  Sauce  for  Tripe,  Calf's-licad,  or  Cow-heel. — Garlic  vinegar 
according  to  taste,  a  table-spoonful  of  brown  sugar,  mustard  and 
black  pepper  a  tea-spoonful  of  each,  stirred  into  oiled  melted  butter. 
(See  4G6.) 

132.  Celery  Sauce. — Take  fresh  celery;  take  off  all  the  outside 
leaves,  leave  none  but  what  are  quite  crisp,  and  which  may  be  known 
by  their  breaking  siiort  without  any  strings,  cut  up  in  pieces  about  an 
inch  long,  take  liquor  that  has  boiled  veal,  chickens,  or  lamb,  when 
fast  boiling. 

138.  Tarragon  or  Burnet  makes  rich  pleasant  sauce,  chiefly  usea 
for  steaks;  sent  to  table  in  a  sauce  tureen. 

V?A.  Sorrel  Sauce  for  Lamb  or  Veal,  and  Sweet-breads. — Two 
quarts  of  sorrel  leaves  will  not  make  more  than  a  sauce  tureen  of 
sauce;  pick  and  wasli  them  clean,  put  them  into  a  stew-pan  with  one 
ounce  of  butter,  cover  close  and  set  over  a  slow  fire  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour ;  then  rub  them  through  a  coarse  hair  sieve,  season  them  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  a  small  lump  of  sugar,  squeeze  in  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  and  make  the  whole  thoroughly  hot. 

185.  Poor  Man's  Sauce. — A  handful  of  young  parsley  leaves, 
chopped  fine,  a  dozen  of  young  green  onions,  chopped  fine,  put  to 
them  salt  and  pepper,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  and  four  of 
vinegar;  a  little  scraped  horse-radish,  pickled  French  beans,  or  gher- 
kins, may  be  added.     This  sauce  is  taken  with  cold  meats. 

136.  Trufjle  Sauce. — Truffles  are  only  good  while  in  season,  that 
i.-',  in  a  green  state.  Add  two  ounces  of  butter  to  eighteen  truffleg 
sliced,  simmer  them  together  till  they  are  tenuer ;  then  add  as  muck 


SAUCES.  67 

good  gravy,  brown  or  white,  as  to  bring  it  to  a  proper  thickness,  sea- 
son it  with  salt,  and  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 

137.  Sharp  Sauce  for  Venison. — Best  white  wine  vinegar  half  a 
pint,  loaf  sugar  pounded  a  quarter  of  a  pound ;  eiramer  it  gently ;  skim, 
and  strain  it  through  a  tamis. 

139.  Sweet  Sauce  for  Venison. — Currant  jelly,  either  black  or  red, 
n>8lted  and  served  hot;  others  like  it  sent  to  table  as  jelly. 

139.  Wine  Sauce  for  Venison^  Hare,  or  Haunch  of  Mutton. — 
Take  equal  parts  of  rich  mutton  gravy,  without  any  flavourings,  and 
port  wine.  Simmer  them  together  to  half  a  pint,  add  a  table-spoonful 
of  currant  jelly,  let  it  just  boil  up. 

140.  Sauce  for  a  Pig, — Three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  good  beef  gravy, 
six  or  eight  leaves  of  sage,  chopped  very  fine,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  tea- 
cup full  of  bread  crumbs,  and  eight  white  peppercorns;  let  them  boil 
six  or  eight  minutes,  then  stir  into  the  sauce  the  brains,  gravy,  and 
whatever  sticks  about  the  dish  on  which  you  have  split  the  pig,  one 
ounce  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cream,  and  one  or 
two  of  catsup,  if  liked;  simmer  a  minute  or  two,  and  serve  in  a  sauce 
tureen.  • 

141.  Turtle  Sauce. — To  a  pint  of  rich  beef  gravy,  thickened,  put 
a  wine  glass  of  Madeira,  six  leaves  of  basil,  the  juice  and  peel  of  half 
a  lemon,  a  few  grains  of  cayenne  or  curry  powder,  an  eschalot  sliced, 
a  table  spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy;  simmer  together  five  minutes, 
then  strain,  and  add  a  dozen  turtle  force  meat  balls.  This  sauce  ia 
used  for  calf  s  head,  or  hashed  or  stewed  veal,  or  for  any  other  rich 
dish  in  imitation  of  turtle. 

142.  A  Sauce  for  all  sorts  of  Fish. — Haifa  pint  of  port  or  claret, 
half  a  pint  of  rich  gravy,  a  little  nutmeg,  three  anchovies,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  catsup,  and  salt;  simmer  all  together  till  the  anchovies 
are  done,  then  add  three  ounces  of  butter  thickened  with  flour,  arrow- 
root, or  potatoe  mucilage ;  when  it  boils,  add  some  scraped  horse- 
radish, a  dozen  or  two  of  oysters,  a  lobster  cut  in  bits,  a  few  smai. 
mushrooms,  and  half  a  pint  of  picked  shrimps  or  crawfish.  This 
sauce  is  intended  to  pour  over  the  fish — boiled  carp,  tench,  pike, 
whiting,  boiled  cod,  and  haddock. 

143.  Pudding  Sauce. — Half  a  glass  of  brandy,  one  glass  of  white 
wine,  a  little  grated  rind  of  lemon,  half  an  ounce  of  grated  loaf  sugar, 
and  a  little  powdered  cinnamon,  mixed  with  melted  butter.  It  is  a 
good  way  to  keep  a  bottle  of  these  ingredients  to  mix  with  melted 
butter  when  wanted.  In  a  bottle  containing  one  pint  of  brandy  and 
two  pints  of  sherry,  steep  the  kernels  of  apricots,  nectarines,  and 
peaches,  with  an  ounce  of  shaved  lemon  rind,  half  an  ounce  of  mace, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar  ;  pour  off  clear  to  mix  with  but- 
ler. Two  table-spoonfuls  will  flavour  a  boat  of  sauce;  the  mace  and 
lemon  peel  may  be  steeped  in  half  a  pint  of  brandy,  or  a  pint  of  sherry, 
for  fourteen  days;  strain,  and  add  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  capillaire. 

144.  Custard  Sauce.  —  For  rice  or  other  plain  puddings,  or  with 
fruit  pics,  stir  a  pint  of  sweet  cream  in  a  double  saucepan  till  it  boils; 
beat  the  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs,  with  a  spoonful  of  cold  cream, 

5 


68  THE    COMPLETE     COOK. 

and  an  ounce  of  powdered  sugar;  pour  the  boiling-  cream  to  tbero,  and 
pour  backwards  and  forwards  two  or  three  times  to  prevent  cupjlirr^  ; 
then  set  the  inner  saucepan  over  the  boiling  water,  and  stir  it  con- 
tinually one  way  till  it  thickens.  Serve  in  a  china  basin  with  grated 
nutmeg,  or  pounded  cinnamon  strewed  over  the  top. 

145.  Roe  Sauce.  —  Boil  the  soft  roes  of  mackerel,  clear  away  all 
the  skin,  and  bruise  them  with  the  back  of  a  wooden  spoon ;  beat  up 
the  yolk  of  an  egg  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  a  little  fennel  and 
parsley  scalded  and  chopped  fine,  rub  the  wiiole  together,  and  stir 
into  melted  butter.  Some  people  prefer  a  spoonful  of  catsup,  essence 
of  anchovy,  or  walnut  pickle. 

BOILING. 

As  this  is  the  most  common  mode  of  preparing  food  for  human 
sustenance,  it  is  therefore  the  more  necessary  that  its  principles 
should  be  well  understood  ;  for  though  the  operations  of  boiling  may 
appear  to  be  very  simple,  yet  a  great  deal  of  skill  and  judgment  is 
j-equired  to  carry  them  into  ejffect  properly.  We  repeat,  that  the 
young  cook  ought  to  read  attentively  our  observations  upon  this  sub- 
ject, in  the  "Introductory  Remarks."  Instead  of  using  the  word 
boiling,,  we  ought  rather  to  have  said,  the  mode  of  preparing  meats 
for  food  by  means  of  hot  water;  for  we  are  quite  convinced,  that  all 
meats  are  more  or  less  injured  by  being  subjected  to  a  boiling  heat; 
that  is,  a  heat  of  212°  of  Fahrenheit.  We  have  dressed  salt  cod  fish 
in  water  never  exceeding  145°  of  heat,  and  it  was  much  more  tender, 
and  better  flavoured,  than  when  dressed  in  boiling  water:  we  ought 
to  add,  that  the  fish  is  required  to  remain  in  this  partially  hot  water 
four  or  five  hours,  in  which  time  it  becomes  divested  of  the  salt,  and 
eats,  comparatively  speaking,  quite  fresh. 

146.  Take  care  that  your  vessel  is  large  enough  for  the  water  to 
cover  the  meat,  and  to  surround  it.  Do  not  suffer  the  steam  to  escape; 
and  to  effect  this,  see  that  the  lid  of  the  vessel  fits  it  as  closely  as 
possible;  by  this  means  the  water  may  be  kept  at  a  proper  heat,  that 
is  to  say,  nearly  simmering,  but  not  bubbling,  whereby  fuel  will  be 
saved,  and  the  meat  much  better  dressed.  In  short,  one  of  the 
greatest  errors  that  can  be  committed  in  boiling  meat,  is  to  suffer  the 
water  to  boil  violently.  It  has  the  effect  of  hardening  the  outside  of 
the  joints,  or,  in  other  words,  making  it  tough,  while  the  inside  will 
be  raw,  or  only  partially  done. 

147.  Always  prefer  soft  water  to  hard,  whenever  the  former  is  to 
be  procured.  River,  or  clean  rain  water,  should  be  used  in  preference 
to  hard  spring  water;  but  your  water  must  always  be  as  pure  and  as 
bright  as  possible. 

148.  In  making  up  a  fire  for  cooking,  regard  must  be  had  as  to 
whether  it  is  intended  for  boiling  or  roasting,  or  for  both.  A  moderate 
fire  is  best  for  boiling,  but  a  brisk  and  somewhat  fierce  fire  is  required 
for  roasting.  If  you  are  going  to  roast  and  boil  at  the  same  fire,  you 
must  take  care  that  your  boiling  vessels  are  sufficiently  far  removed 


BOILING.  59 

from  it    With  a  good  kitchen  range,  or  steam  cooking  apparatus,  all 
this  may  be  done  without  difficulty  or  trouble. 

149.  All  fresh  meats  are  directed  by  the  generality  of  culinary 
writers  to  be  put  into  the  pot,  or  saucepan,  when  the  water  is  warm, 
not  hot;  but  salt  meat,  for  the  most  part,  should  be  put  in  when  the 
water  is  perfectly  cold ;  by  this  means  the  superfluous  salt  will  be 
extracted  from  it  The  pot  should  not,  with  fresh  meat,  be  allowed 
to  boil,  or  rather  to  arrive  at  the  boiling  point,  under  forty  or  fifty 
minutes;  more  time  should  be  taken  with  salt  meat.  The  usual 
direction  is,  as  above,  to  put  fresh  meat  into  warm  water — but  we 
are  convinced,  that  the  better  plan  is  always  to  use  cold.  Meat, 
thoroughly  cooked,  will  take  twenty  minutes  boiling  to  each  pound. 
Salt,  a  little  more. 

150.  When  the  scum  rises,  let  it  be  carefully  removed;  and  if  the 
heat  of  the  water  is  checked  with  a  small  portion  of  cold  water,  it 
will  throw  up  an  additional  scum,  which  must,  of  course,  be  also  care- 
fully taken  away.  The  scum  rises  just  as  the  water  is  beginning  to 
boil.  The  nice  clear  appearance  of  the  meat,  when  done,  in  a  great 
measure  depends  upon  attending  to  the  above  directions. 

151.  When  the  liquor  in  your  vessel  once  boils,  after  all  the  scum 
has  been  cleared  away,  let  it  continue  to  simmer  till  the  meat  is  done. 
From  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  is  generally  directed  to  be  allowed 
for  each  pound  of  meat,  but  twenty  is  better.  Never  stick  your  fork 
into  meat,  whether  boiling  or  roasting,  upon  any  account;  the  eflfect 
will  be  to  let  out  the  gravy.     Bacon  is  an  exception. 

152.  Meats  of  any  description,  just  killed,  and  still  warm,  whether 
to  be  roasted  or  boiled,  will  do  as  soon,  and  eat  as  tender,  as  meat 
which  has  hung  the  usual  time ;  but  if  once  suffered  to  become  cold 
after  slaughtering,  it  will  require  more  dressing,  and  after  all  will 
not  eat  so  tenderly,  unless  hung  a  proper  time. 

153.  Meat  which  has  been  frozen  must  be  immersed  in  cold  water 
two  or  three  hours,  or  till  the  frost  is  taken  out  of  it,  before  it  is 
dressed,  or  it  will  never  be  well  done.  In  cold  weather  meat  requires 
more  dressing  than  in  warm. 

154.  Salt  meat  will  require  more  boiling  than  fresh,  and  thick 
parts,  whether  salt  or  fresh,  rather  more  than  thin  ones. 

155.  In  boiling  bacon,  if  very  salt,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  take  away  a 
part  or  the  whole  of  the  water,  when  it  is  on  the  point  of  boiling,  and 
filling  up  the  pot  with  cold  water.  This  process  renders  it  more 
mild.  Bacon  or  ham  is  done  when  the  skin  is  easily  removed,  or  the 
fork  leaves  it  readily. 

156.  Hams,  beef;  tongues,  and  even  pork,  which  have  been  kept 
long  in  pickle,  should  be  soaked  before  they  are  boiled  —  if  hard,  ia 
warm  water.  A  ham  weighing  twenty  pounds,  or  upwards,  will  take 
from  five  to  six  hours  to  dress  it  well  (the  water  should  not  boil) ; 
and  a  large  dry  tongue  should  be  boiled,  or  rather  simmered,  for  four 
hours  or  more.  The  following  is  a  good  plan  to  dress  a  ham :  Put  a 
certain  quantity  of  suet  into  the  pan  which  is  to  be  used  for  the  cook- 
ing of  the  ham ;  then  put  in  the  ham  and  cover  it  with  paper,  over 


60  THECOMPLETECOOK. 

which  lay  a  cover  of  coarse  paste,  or  the  paper  may  be  used  withool 
the  paste,  or  the  paste  without  the  paper;  place  the  pan  in  the  oven, 
where  let  it  remain  till  the  ham  is  done.  The  gravy  coming  from  the 
meat  will  be  a  jelly,  which,  mixed  with  fresh  slock  or  broth  for  gravies, 
&c.  will  greatly  improve  it. 

157.  Meat  boiled  by  steam  requires  no  water  unless  soup  is  wanted. 
Meat  boiled  in  the  ordinary  way  should  not  be  permitted  to  touch  the 
bottom  of  the  pot.  This  object  may  be  effected  by  placing  a  fish-drain 
in  the  pot,  or  by  putting  a  plate  upside  down  in  it,  or  laying  some 
skewers  across  it  a  little  way  from  the  bottom. 

158.  There  is  a  method  of  boiling  meat  without  allowing  it  to 
4ouch  or  come  in  contact  with  the  water.     This  plan,  which  is  little 

followed  in  America,  has  been  strongly  recommended.  To  effect  this 
object,  fowls  filled  with  oysters  may  be  boiled  in  a  bladder,  or  in  a 
close  jar,  by  which  means  they  are  deliciously  stewed,  and  the  flavour 
and  animal  juices  are  all  preserved.  Meat  of  any  description  may 
be  dressed  in  a  similar  manner,  that  is,  by  putting  it  into  a  close  jar 
and  immersed  in  water,  which  is  kept  boiling  till  the  meat  is  done. 
The  Scotch  dress  their  haggis  in  this  way,  and  the  custom  was  fol- 
lowed by  the  ancient  Romans.  Similar  modes  of  dressing  meat  are 
used  by  savages  in  different  parts  of  the  world. 

159.  Any  thing  that  is  to  be  warmed  and  sent  to  the  table  a  second 
time,  should  be  put  into  a  basin  or  jar,  placed  in  hot  water,  which  is 
not  permitted  to  come  to  the  boiling  point.  If  allowed  to  boil,  the 
meat  will  harden, or  the  sauce  will  be  reduced  and  become  thick;  by 
avoiding  these  chances  the  flavour  will  be  preserved,  and  the  viands 
may  be  warmed  up  more  than  once  without  injury.  The  steam  ap- 
paratus  now  employed  in  most  kitchens,  is  admirably  adapted  to  this 
purpose,  since  the  heat  can  be  regulated  by  the  required  temperature. 

160.  The  beads,  brains,  and  so  forth,  of  animals,  every  thing  in 
fact,  which  in  the  cleaning  process  requires  soaking,  should  be  soaked 
in  warm,  not  hot  water,  as  the  hot  will  fix  the  blood,  and  injure  both 
the  appearance  and  flavour  of  the  viand.  All  cooks  must  be  particu- 
lar in  keeping  their  saucepans  well  skimmed ;  nothing  will  more 
completely  spoil  a  dish  of  any  kirnl  than  the  nef  lect  of  this  essential 
point.  In  order  to  take  off  the  fat  from  the  braise,  or  any  other  gravy, 
plunge  the  basin  containing  it  into  cold  water;  the  fat  will  immedi- 
ately coagulate,  and  may  be  removed. 

161.  It  is  much  better  to  dress  meat  immediately  after  it  is  killed, 
that  is,  while  it  is  warm,  than  to  suffer  it  to  get  cold,  and  not  let  it 
hang  a  proper  length  of  time.  Indeed,  there  is  no  doubt  that  meat 
dressed  while  warm  is  as  tender,  or  nearly  as  tender,  as  when  it  has 
been  hung  for  some  days.  If,  therefore,  you  cannot  procure  well- 
hung  meat,  and  can  get  that  which  has  been  just  killed,  you  ought  to 
prefer  the  latter. 

162.  Bacon,  ham,  and  salt  beef,  may  be  done,  if  you  want  to  use 
your  fire  for  vegetables,  half  an  hour  before  serving,  as  it  will  not  sustain 
any  injury  by  remaining  that  time  in  the  hot  liquor;  but  all  other 
descriptions  of  meat  would  be  injured  by  such  a  course  of  proceeding 


BOILINO. butcher's     MEAT,     &C.  61 

163.  Potatoes  must  never  be  boiled  with  meat,  or  indeed  with  any 
thing  else,  for  the  meat  is  injured  by  the  potatoes  and  the  potatoes  by 
the  meat. 

164.  Yon  may  boil  turnips,  carrots,  parsnips,  and  pease  pudding, 
with  salt  meat ;  by  so  doing^  these  vegetables  will  be  improved,  and 
the  meat  not  injured  ;  but  the  liquor  will  not  keep  so  long,  though  it 
will  be  rendered  better  for  some  kinds  of  soup. 

165.  Green  vegetables,  such  as  savoys,  &,c.,  should  be  always  put 
into  boiling  water  with  a  handful  of  salt,  particularly  if  they  are 
harsh  and  strong;  they  are  generally  kept  boiling  till  they  are  done. 
In  warm  countries,  in  Italy,  for  instance,  they  first  boil  them  in  a 
large  quantity  of  water  for  a  considerable  time;  but  as  this  will 
neither  make  them  sweet  nor  tender,  they  are  frequently  taken  out 
of  the  pot,  and  well  washed  in  cold  spring  water ;  they  are  then  boiled 
again  till  they  are  sweet  and  tender.  Old  tough  meat  may  be  simi- 
larly treated  with  like  effect. 

166.  Old  potatoes  must  never  be  put  into  warm  or  hot  water.  On 
the  contrary,  the  water  in^  which  this  useful  vegetable  is  boiled  should 
be  perfectly  cold  when  the  potatoes  are  first  put  in.  New  potatoes 
are  better  put  in  boiling  water. 

BOILING— BUTCHER'S  MEAT  AND   POULTRY. 

The  general  directions  which  we  have  given  for  boiling  in  the  pre- 
ceding pages,  if  they  have  been  well  studied  by  the  young  cook,  as 
we  trust  they  have,  render  it  useless  for  us  to  go  into  the  question  at 
any  length  ;  we  shall,  therefore,  content  ourselves  with  a  few  special 
directions  relative  to  the  dressing  of  the  different  things  designated 
at  the  head  of  this  section.  It  will  not  be  necessary  to  give  a  great 
multiplicity  of  receipts;  for  if  the  general  principles  of  boiling  are 
well  understood,  and  we  have  spared  neither  time  nor  space  to  make 
them  so,  the  cook  will  find  no  difficulty  in  preparing  any  particular 
dish  without  especial  directions  from  us,  or  any  other  writer.  The 
receipts  which  follow  are  selected  according  to  the  best  of  our  judg- 
ment. We  do  not  pretend  to  say  that  they  are  original ;  upon  such 
a  subject  it  is  impossible  to  be  original,  with  the  exception,  perhaps, 
of  a  few  instances.  Dr.  Kitchiner  apologises  in  his  "Cook's  Oracle," 
for  his  "  receipts  differing  a  little  from  those  in  former  cookery  books." 
Very  different  is  this  open  and  candid  proceeding  from  that  of  a 
voluminous  writer  of  great  pretensions,  who  claims  the  following 
mode  of  dressing  rice,  which  is  as  old  as  the  introduction  of  that 
article  into  this  country,  as  original!  "Tie  some  rice  in  a  cloth, 
leaving  plenty  of  room  for  it  to  swell ;  boil  it  in  water  for  an  hour  or 
two,  and  eat  it  with  butter  and  sugar,  or  milk."' 
•  167.  Boiled  Beef. — Fresh  boiled  beef  is  called  heefbouilli  by  some, 
but  in  the  French  kitchen  the  term  means  fresh  beef  dressed,  without 
absolutely  boiling,  it  being  suffered  only  to  simmer  till  it  is  done. 
Indeed,  it  may  be  laid  down  as  a  general  rule,  that  whether  you  are 
dressing  beef  bouilli,  or  any  other  meat,  it  should  never  be  suffered 
5* 


63  THE    COMPLETE    COOK.  >"? 

to  go  into  a  boiling  gallop^  except  for  a  minute  or  two,  for  th6  pur- 
pose of  throwing-  up  the  scum.  After  the  scum  is  all  cleared  away, 
let  it  simmer  till  it  is  done.  But  you  must  be  careful  not  to  let  your 
meat  boil  too  quickly ;  for  this  purpose  it  should  be  put  over  a  mo- 
derate fire,  and  the  water  made  gradually  hot,  or  the  meat  will  be 
hardened,  and  shrink  up  as  if  it  were  scorched ;  but  by  keeping  the 
meat  a  certain  time  heating,  without  boiling,  the  fibres  of  the  meat 
dilate,  and  it  not  only  yields  the  scum  more  freely,  but  the  meat  ia 
rendered  more  tender.  The  advantage  of  dressing  fresh  meat  in  the 
way  practised  by  the  French  with  regard  to  fresh  beef  is  twofold.  In 
the  first  place,  meat  dressed  in  this  manner  affords  much  more 
nourishment  than  it  does  cooked  in  the  common  way,  is  easy  of  diges- 
tion, and  will  yield  soup  of  a  most  excellent  quality.  (See  Soup  and 
Bouilli,  and  99.) 

168.  Boiled  Salt  Beef. — A  piece  of  beef  of  fifteen  pounds  will  take 
three  hours,  or  more,  simmering  after  it  has  boiled,  and  it  ought  to  be 
full  forty  minutes  on  the  fire  before  it  does  boil ;  skim  carefully ;  put 
a  tea-cup  full  of  the  liquor,  and  garnish  with  sliced  carrots.  Vegeta- 
bles, carrots,  turnips,  kale,  parsnips;  sauce,  melted  butter.  Pease 
pudding  is  sometimes  boiled  with  salt  beef,  and  the  liquor,  if  not  too 
salt,  will  make  good  pease  soup.  An  aitch,  or  H  bone  of  beef,  a 
round,  or  ribs  salted  and  rolled,  and  indeed  all  other  beef,  are  boiled 
in  the  same  way.  Briskets  and  other  inferior  joints  require,  perhaps, 
more  attention  than  superior  ones;  they  should  in  fact  rather  be 
stewed  than  boiled,  and  in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  by  which  means, 
if  good  meat,  they  will  be  delicious  eating. 

169.  Mutton.  —  A  leg  will  take  from  two  to  three  hours  boiling. 
Accompaniments  —  parsley  and  butter,  caper  sauce,  eschalot,  onion, 
turnips,  carrots,  spinach,  &c.,  and  to  boiled  mutton  in  general. 

170.  JSeck  of  Mutton.  —  As  the  scrag  end  takes  much  longer  to 
boil,  some  people  cut  it  off  and  boil  it  half  or  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  before  the  rest,  as  it  is  apt  to  be  bloody,  however  well  washed ; 
you  had  better  skim  it  well.  When  it  is  time  to  put  the  best  end  in, 
add  cold  water  to  check  the  heat,  allowing  an  hour  and  a  half  or 
three-quarters,  after  the  second  boiling  up.  Cut  off  some  of  the  fat 
before  dressing,  or  at  least  peel  off  the  skin  when  taken  up.  For 
accompaniments,  see  169. 

171.  Shoulder^  boiled. — The  whole  is  sometimes  boiled,  and  some- 
times cut  in  half,  taking  the  knuckle  part,  and  leaving  the  oyster  for 
roasting  ;  it  will  take  not  less  than  two  hours  slow  boiling,  though  it 
may  not  weigh  above  five  pounds.  Boil  it  either  plain  or  in  broth. 
Accompaniments,  169. 

172.  Breast,  boiled,  will  require  from  two  and  a  half,  to  three 
hours.     Accompaniments,  169. 

173.  Sheeps'  Heads,  plain  boiled. — Boil  them  two  hours ;  before  boi[ 
ing,  take  out  the  brains,  wash  them  clean  and  free  from  all  skin  ;  chop 
about  a  dozen  sage  leaves  very  small,  tie  them  in  a  small  bag,  and  let 
them  boil  half  an  hour,  then  beat  them  up  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 


BOILING.  —  butchers'     MEAT,    &  C  .         6& 

half  an  ounce  of  butter ;  pour  it  over  the  head,  or  serve  in  a  boat  or 
tureen ;  skin  the  tongue  before  serving.     Accompaniments,  169. 

174.  Leg  of  Lamb,  boiled. — From  an  hour  and  a  quarter  to  an  hour 
and  a  haltl  Accompaniments — caper  sauce,  melted  butter,  turnips, 
spinach,  carrots,  &c. 

175.  Neck,  boiled. — One  hour ;  if  very  large,  an  hour  and  a  quar- 
ter. 

176.  Lamb's  Head  and  Pluck. — Parboil  the  lights  and  a  small  bit 
of  the  liver  till  it  v^^ill  chop  fine,  and  boil  the  head  in  the  same  liquor; 
it  will  take  nearly  an  hour  to  boil ;  scald  the  brains,  tied  up  in  a  small 
bag,  with  five  or  six  sage  leaves,  chopped  very  fine ;  they  will  take 
twenty  minutes  to  do ;  warm  the  mince  in  a  little  of  the  liquor,  sea- 
soned with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg ;  thicken  with  flour,  and  half  an 
ounce  of  butter,  and  stir  in  the  brains.  Take  up  the  head  ;  skin  the 
tongue;  pour  over  the  mince;  sippets  of  toasted  bread  and  slices  of 
lemon.  The  liver,  heart,  and  sweetbread,  to  be  fried,  and  laid  round 
the  dish  with  slices  of  bacon;  or  served  in  a  separate  dish,  which  ia 
preferable,  as  the  liver  requires  a  little  brown  gravy.  Vegetables, 
turnips,  carrots,  &.c. 

Browned. — After  boiling,  wash  the  head  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg ; 
sprinkle  with  bread  crumbs  and  chopped  parsley,  and  brown  it  in  a 
dutch  oven,  the  mince  to  be  poured  round  it.  Some  people  like  the 
flavour  of  catsup  in  the  mince ;  others  like  a  little  sliced  lemon  peel, 
and  a  spoonful  or  two  of  cream. 

177.  Boiled  Veal. — A  knuckle,  whether  of  leg  or  shoulder,  will 
take  full  two  hours.  A  scrag  of  neck  or  breast,  an  hour  and  three- 
quarters  to  two  hours.  Sauce,  melted  butter,  parsley  and  butter, 
celery,  &,c. 

178.  Calfs  Head,  boiled. — Let  it  be  cut  in  half  by  the  butcher, 
and  all  the  inside  bones  removed  ;  take  out  the  brains,  wash  the  head 
well  in  several  waters,  with  a  little  salt,  to  draw  out  the  blood ;  boil 
it  slowly  in  plenty  of  water  two  hours  or  two  hours  and  a  quarter. 
Sauce.  Well  clean  the  brains,  and  boil  them  in  a  cloth  half  an  hour, 
with  about  a  dozen  sage  leaves  chopped  fine,  or  parsley,  or  part  of 
each ;  when  done,  beat  them  up  in  a  small  saucepan,  with  a  little  salt 
and  pepper,  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  little  lemon  juice ;  have  them 
ready  quite  hot  to  pour  over  the  tongue,  when  skinned.  Some  peo- 
ple mix  the  brains  with  parsley  and  butter,  and  pour  over  the  whole 
head.  However  it  is  dressed,  it  is  usually  garnished  with  sliced 
lemon. 

179.  7V/pe,  when  raw,  will  take  four  or  five  hours  simmering.  If 
previously  well  boiled,  twenty  minutes  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
It  may  be  in  milk,  or  milk  and  water,  or  equal  parts  of  milk  and  its 
own  liquor.  Boil  with  the  tripe  eight  or  ten  large  onions.  To  keep 
the  tripe  warm,  serve  it  in  the  liquor,  and  beat  up  the  onions  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  butter ;  or  the  tripe  may  be  served  without  liquor, 
and  the  onion  sauce  poured  over.  If  onions  are  not  approved,  serve 
parsley  and  butter,  or  caper  sauce.  Tripe  may  be  cut  in  pieces  the 
size  of  a  hand,  dipped  in  batter  and  fried,  with  rashers  of  bacon 


64  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

laid  round  the  dish. — N.  B.  Mustard  is  always  an  accompaniment  of 
tripe,  and  generally  vinegar  also. 

In  some  of  the  English  towns,  particularly  at  Birmingham,  famous 
for  tripe,  the  belly  or  paunch  of  the  animal,  after  being  well  cleaned, 
(in  doing  which  thoroughly  great  attention  and  care  must  be  observed,) 
is  sent  to  the  oven  in  a  deep  earthenware  pot,  or  jar,  closely  covered 
over  the  top,  and  baked,  or  rather  stewed,  in  just  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  water,  for  four  or  five  hours,  or  till  it  is  well  done.  It  is  sold  while 
yet  hot,  in  the  public-houses  or  tripe  shops,  at  so  much  a  "  large  or 
small  CM<,"  with  a  proportionate  quantity  of  "broth,"  that  is,  the  liquor 
in  which  it  has  been  stewed  ;  nothing  else  is  eaten  with  it,  except 
mustard  and  salt.  In  Birmingham  it  is  usually  eaten  for  supper,  and 
of  course  by  candle-light,  and  at  no  other  meal ;  a  relation  of  ours, 
however,  was  so  fond  of  it,  that  he  used  to  have  the  dining-room 
darkened,  and  the  candles  lit,  in  order  that  he  might  partake  of  it  for 
his  dinner,  under  the  same  apparent  circumstances  as  at  supper. 
We  have  heard  of  whist  devotees  who  could  not  play  the  game  with 
any  gusto  by  daylight,  and  who  resorted  to  the  same  expedient  to 
imitate  night  as  our  tripe  gourmand.  Tripe  cooked  in  the  Birming- 
ham fashion  is  delicious — far,  very  far,  superior  to  that  gotten  in 
London ;  this  may  be  partly  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  all  meat  ia 
greatly  deteriorated  by  being  twice  subjected  to  heat. 

180.  Cow-heel  in  the  hands  of  a  skilful  cook,  will  furnish  several 
good  meals;  when  boiled  tender,  cut  it  into  handsome  pieces,  egg  and 
bread-crumb  them,  and  fry  them  a  light  brown ;  lay  them  round  a 
dish,  and  put  in  the  middle  of  it  sliced  onions  fried,  or  the  accompani- 
ments ordered  for  tripe. 

181.  Pi^'s  Pettitoes  consist  of  the  feet  and  internal  parts  of  a  suck- 
ing pig.  Set  on  with  a  quantity  of  water,  or  broth  ;  a  button  onion  or 
two  may  be  added,  if  approved — also,  four  or  five  leaves  of  sage  chop- 
ped small.  When  the  heart,  liver,  and  lights,  are  tender,  take  them 
out  and  chop  fine ;  let  the  feet  simmer  the  while ;  they  will  take  from 
half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  do.  Season  the  mince  with  salt, 
nutmeg,  and  a  little  pepper,  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  a  table -spoonful 
or  two  of  thick  cream,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  arrow-root,  flour,  or  pota- 
toe  starch ;  return  it  to  the  saucepan,  in  which  the  feet  are ;  let  it 
boil  up,  shaking  it  one  way.  Split  the  feet,  lay  them  round  in  the 
mince.     Serve  with  toasted  sippets.     Garnish.  .  Mashed  potatoes. 

182.  Salt  Pork  requires  long  boiling,  never  less  than  twenty 
minutes  to  a  pound,  and  a  thick  joint  considerably  more.  A  leg  of  ten 
pounds  will  take  four  hours  simmering,  a  spring  two  hours,  a  porker's 
head  the  same.  Be  very  careful  that  it  does  not  stick  to  the  pot.  No 
sauce  is  required,  except  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  the  liquor  in  which  it 
was  boiled,  to  draw  the  gravy,  and  plenty  of  good  fresh  mustard.  A 
chine  is  usually  served  quite  dry.  The  vegetable  accompanimenta 
are  pease  pudding,  turnips,  carrots,  and  parsnips. 

183.  Pickled  Pork,  which  is  usually  bought  pickled,  requires  to  be 
well  washed  before  boiling,  and  must  boil  very  slowly.  It  is  seldom 
eaten  alone,  but  as  an  accompaniment  to  fowls,  or  other  white  meat. 


MEAT,    &C.         65 

'  184.  Bacon,  Ham,  Tongues. — First,  well  wash  and  scrape  clean. 
If  very  salt,  it  may  soak  in  cold  water  a  few  hours ;  allow  plenty  of 
water,  fresh  rain  or  river  water  is  best ;  put  it  in  when  the  chill  is 
off,  and  let  it  be  a  good  while  coming  to  the  boil,  then  keep  it  very 
gently  simmering.  If  time  allows,  throw  away  nearly  or  quite  all  the 
liquor  of  bacon  as  soon  as  it  boils  up,  and  renew  it  with  fresh  cold 
water ;  reckon  the  time  from  the  second  boiling.  A  pound  of  streaky 
bacon  will  require  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  boil ;  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  for  every  additional  pound.  If  good  bacon  it  will  swell  in 
boiling,  and  when  done  the  rind  will  pull  off  easily.  Take  it  up  on 
a  common  dish  to  remove  the  rind,  and  sprinkle  it  over  with  bread 
raspings,  sifted  through  a  flour  dredge,  or  grater.  A  ham  of  twelve 
or  Iburteen  pounds  will  require  four  or  five  hours  simmering,  or  four 
hours  baking  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done,  remove  the  skin  aa 
whole  as  possible,  and  preserve  it  to  cover  over  the  ham  and  keep  it 
moist.  If  to  be  served  hot,  strew  raspings  as  above ;  but  if  intended  for 
eating  cold,  omit  the  raspings.  It  will  be  much  the  more  juicy  for  not 
cutting  hot.  Set  it  on  a  baking  stand,  or  some  other  contrivance,  to 
keep  it  from  touching  the  dish ;  this  preserves  it  from  swamping  in 
the  fat  that  drips  from  it,  keeps  the  fat  nice  and  white  for  use,  and 
also  makes  the  ham  keep  the  longer  from  becoming  mouldy,  by  the 
outside  being  perfectly  dry.  Whether  hot  or  cold,  garnish  with 
parsley.  A  neat's  tongue,  according  to  its  size,  age,  and  freshness, 
will  require  from  two  hours  and  a  half  to  four  hours  slow  boiling. 
When  done,  it  will  stick  tender,  and  the  skin  will  peel  off  easily.  A 
dried  chine,  or  hog's  cheek,  may  be  allowed  the  same  boiling  as  bacon, 
viz.  four  pounds  an  hour  and  a  half,  and  a  quarter  of  an  hour  for  every 
additional  pound. 

185.  To  poach  Eggs. — The  best  vessel  for  this  purpose  is  a  frying 
pan  ;  but  it  must  be  kept  for  that  purpose  only,  or  the  grease  will  ad- 
here to  the  water,  and  spoil  the  delicate  appearance  of  the  eggs.  A 
wide-mouthed  stew-pan  will  do  as  well.  Both  the  vessel  and  water 
must  be  delicately  clean.  Break  the  eggs  into  separate  cups ;  when 
the  water  boils,  gently  slip  in  the  eggs,  and  set  the  vessel  on  the  hob 
for  a  minute  or  so,  till  the  white  has  set,  then  set  it  over  the  fire  ;  let 
it  once  boil  up,  and  the  eggs  are  done.  The  white  should  retain  its 
transparency,  and  the  yellow  appear  brightly  through  it.  Take  up 
very  carefully  with  a  slice;  trim  ofl^any  rough  edges  of  white,  and 
serve  on  buttered  toast,  a  piece  for  each  egg,  a  little  larger  than  the 
egg  itself;  or  on  a  fish  drainer.  Garnish  with  sliced  bacon  or  ham, 
sausages,  or  spinach. 

186.  Turkeys,  Capons,  Chickens,  c^c,  are  all  boiled  exactly  in  the 
same  manner,  only  allowing  time  according  to  their  size.  A  chicken 
will  take  about  twenty  minutes — a  fowl,  forty — a  fine  five-toed  fowl 
or  a  capon,  about  an  hour — a  small  turkey,  an  hour  and  a  half — a  large 
one,  two  hours  or  more.  Chickens  or  fowls  should  be  killed  at  least 
one  or  two  days  before  they  are  to  be  dressed.*     Turkeys  (espe- 

*  If  they  are  dressed  immediately  after  they  are  killed,  befare  the  fiesh  ia  cold^  lUI 
poultry  eat  equally  tender. 
'    6* 


66  THE     COMPLETE    COOK. 

cially  large  ones)  should  not  be  dressed  till  they  have  been  killed 
three  or  four  days  at  least — in  cold  weather,  six  or  eight — or  they  will 
neither  look  white  nor  eat  tender.  Turkeys  and  large  fowls  should 
have  the  strings  or  sinews  of  the  thighs  drawn  out.  Fowls  for  boiling 
should  be  chosen  as  white  as  possible :  those  which  have  black  legs 
should  be  roasted.  The  best  use  of  the  liver  is  to  make  sauce.  Poul- 
try must  be  well  washed  in  warm  water  ;  if  very  dirty  from  the  singe- 
ing, &.C.,  rub  them  with  a  little  white  soap,  but  thoroughly  rinse  it  off 
before  you  put  them  into  the  pot.  Make  a  good  and  clear  fire;  set 
on  a  clean  pot,  with  pure  and  clean  water,  enough  to  cover  the  turkey, 
&c. ;  the  slower  it  boils,  the  whiter  and  plumper  it  will  be.  Whea 
there  rises  any  scum,  remove  it;  the  common  method  of  some  (who 
are  more  nice  than  wise)  is  to  wrap  them  up  in  a  cloth,  to  prevent 
the  scum  attaching  to  them ;  which  if  it  do  by  your  neglecting  to 
skim  the  pot,  there  is  no  getting  it  off  afterwards,  and  the  poulterer 
is  blamed  for  the  fault  of  the  cook.  If  there  be  water  enough,  and  it 
is  attentively  skimmed,  the  fowl  will  both  look  and  eat  much  better 
this  way  than  vi'hen  it  has  been  covered  up  in  the  cleanest  cloth;  and 
the  colour  and  flavour  of  your  poultry  will  be  preserved  in  the  most 
delicate  perfection. 

FISH. 

187.  Salmon  to  boil.  — The  water  should  be  blood- warm :  allow 
plenty  to  cover  the  fish,  with  a  good  handful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of 
a  pint  of  vinegar;  this  makes  the  fish  boil  firm.  Remove  the  scum 
as  fast  as  it  rises.  Keep  it  at  a  very  gentle  boil  from  half  an  hour  to 
an  hour,  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  fish.  When  the  eyes  start, 
and  the  fins  draw  out  easily,  it  is  done.  Lay  the  fish-drainer  across 
the  kettle  a  minute  or  two  before  shifting  the  fish.  Sauce,  lobster, 
shrimp,  anchovy,  or  parsley  and  butter.  Melted  butter  is  the  uni- 
versal sauce  for  fish,  whether  boiled,  fried,  or  baked.  Whatever  other 
eauce  is  served,  plain  melted  butter  must  never  be  omitted:  we  shall 
therefore  only  refer  to  the  number  of  other  sauces  suitable  for  parti- 
cular  kinds  of  fish.  Observe,  also,  potatoes,  either  boiled  or  mashed, 
are  the  only  vegetables  eaten  with  fish,  excepting  parsnips  with  salt 
fish. 

188.  Broiled  Salmon. — This  is  a  good  method  of  dressing  a  small 
quantity  of  salmon  for  one  or  two  persons.  It  may  be  cut  in  slices 
the  whole  round  of  the  fish,  each  taking  in  two  divisions  of  the  bone  ; 
or  the  fish  may  be  split,  and  the  bone  removed,  and  the  sides  of  the 
fish  divided  into  cutlets  of  three  or  four  inches  each :  the  former 
method  is  preferable,  if  done  neatly  with  a  sharp  knife.  Rub  it 
thoroughly  dry  with  a  clean  rough  cloth;  then  do  each  piece  over 
with  salad  oil  or  butter.  Have  a  nice  clean  gridiron  over  a  very  clear 
fire,  and  at  some  distance  from  it.  When  the  bars  are  hot  through 
wipe  them,  and  rub  with  lard  or  suet  to  prevent  sticking;  lay  on  the 
salmon,  and  sprinkle  with  salt.  When  one  side  is  brown,  carefully 
turn  and  brown  the  other.    They  do  equally  well  or  better  in  a  tin, 


PISH.  6? 

ot  flat  dish,  in  an  oven,  with  a  little  bit  of  butter,  or  sweet  oil;  or 
tuey  may  be  done  in  buttered  paper  on  the  gridiron.  Sauce,  lobster 
or  shrimp. 

189.  Baked  Salmon.  —  If  a  small  fish,  turn  the  tail  to  the  mouth, 
and  skewer  it;  force  meat  may  be  put  in  the  belly,  or,  if  part  of  a 
large  fish  is  to  be  baked,  cut  it  in  slices,  egg  it  over,  and  dip  it  in  the 
force  meat.  Stick  bits  of  butter  about  the  salmon  (a  few  oysters  laid 
round  are  an  improvement).  It  will  require  occasional  basting  with 
the  butter.  When  one  side  becomes  brown,  let  it  be  carefully  turned, 
and  when  the  second  side  is  brown,  it  is  done.  Take  it  up  carefully, 
with  all  that  lies  about  it  in  the  baking  dish.  For  sauce,  melted 
butter,  with  two  table-spoonsful  of  port  wine,  one  of  catsup,  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  poured  over  the  fish;  or  anchovy  sauce  in  a  boat. 

190.  Pickled  Salmon. — Do  not  scrape  off  the  scales,  but  clean  the 
fish  carefully,  and  cut  into  pieces  about  eight  inches  long.  Make  a 
strong  brine  of  salt  and  water;  to  two  quarts,  put  two  pounds  of  salt, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  vinegar;  in  all,  make  just  enough  to  cover 
the  fish ;  boil  it  slowly,  and  barely  as  much  as  you  would  for  eating 
hot.  Drain  off  all  the  liquor;  and,  when  cold,  lay  the  pieces  in  a  kit 
or  small  tub.  Pack  it  as  close  as  possible,  and  fill  up  with  equal 
parts  of  best  vinegar  and  the  liquor  in  which  the  fish  was  boiled.  Let 
it  remain  so  a  day  or  two,  then  again  fill  up.  Serve  with  a  garnish 
of  fresh  fennel.  The  same  method  of  pickling  will  apply  to  sturgeon, 
mackerel,  herrings,  and  sprats.  The  three  latter  are  sometimes 
baked  in  vinegar,  flavoured  with  allspice  and  bay  leaves,  and  eat 
very  well ;  but  will  not  keep  more  than  a  few  days. 

191.  Tiirbot,  Halibut,  and  Brills  boiled.  —  Score  the  skin  across 
the  thick  part  of  the  back,  to  prevent  its  breaking  on  the  breast, 
which  it  would  be  liable  to  do  when  the  fish  swells  in  boiling.  Put 
the  fish  in  the  kettle  in  cold  water,  with  a  large  handful  of  salt;  as 
it  comes  to  boil,  skim  it  well,  and  set  it  aside  to  simmer  as  slowly  as 
possible  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  or  twenty  minutes.  If  it  boil  fast  it 
will  break.  It  may  be  garnished  with  fried  smelts  or  gudgeons,  laid 
all  round  like  spokes  of  a  wheel.     Sauce,  lobster  or  shrimp. 

192.  Soles  and  Dutch  Plaice  may  be  boiled  exactly  in  the  same 
way  as  turbot,  and  with  the  same  garnish  and  sauce,  or  with  parsley, 
fennel,  or  chervil  sauce.  If  you  have  not  a  turbot  kettle,  these  flat 
fish  boil  very  well  in  a  large  frying  pan,  provided  it  admits  depth  of 
water  to  cover  them. 

193.  Soles,  fried.— Ea.v\ng  cleaned,  wipe  them  thoroughly  dry, 
and  keep  them  in  a  coarse  cloth  an  hour  or  two  before  using.  In 
case  any  moisture  should  remain,  flour  them  all  over,  and  again  wipe 
it  off!  They  may  be  fried  either  with  or  without  bread  crumbs  or 
oatmeal.  If  bread  crumbs  are  to  be  used,  beat  up  an  egg  very  finely; 
wash  over  the  fish  with  a  paste-brush ;  then  sprinkle  over  it  bread 
crumbs  or  oatmeal,  so  that  every  part  may  be  covered,  and  one  part 
not  be  thicker  than  another.  Lift  up  the  fish  by  a  fork  stuck  in  the 
head,  and  shake  off^any  loose  crumbs  that  may  adhere.  Have  plenty 
of  fat  in  your  pan,  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  let  it  quite  boil  before  you 


68  THE    COMPLETE     COOK. 

put  the  fish  in.  The  fat  may  be  salad  oil,  butter,  lard  or  dripping. 
If  sweet  and  clean,  the  least  expensive  answers  as  well  as  the  best, 
but  let  there  be  enough  to  cover  the  fish.  Give  the  fish  a  j^entle 
ehove  with  a  slice,  that  it  may  not  stick  to  the  pan.  In  about  four  or 
five  minutes  one  side  will  be  brown  ;  turn  it  carefully,  and  do  the 
other;  which,  being  already  warm,  will  not  take  so  long-.  The  best 
way  to  turn  a  large  sole,  is  to  stick  a  fork  in  the  head,  and  raise  the 
tail  with  a  slice,  otherwise  it  is  liable  to  be  broken  with  its  own 
weight.  If  the  soles  are  very  large,  it  is  a  good  way  to  cut  them 
across  in  four  or  five  pieces,  by  which  means  the  thick  parts  can  havp 
more  time  allowed  them,  without  overdoing  the  thin.  The  very  same 
rules  will  apply  to  the  frying  of  Dutch  plaice,  flounders,  eels,  jack 
perch,  roach,  and  other  fresh-water  fish.  Jack  and  eels  to  be  cut  in 
pieces  three  or  four  inches  long.  Sauce,  anchovy,  parsley  and  butter, 
or  melted  butter  flavoured  with  mushroom  catsup.  Garnish,  sprigs 
of  parsley  or  lemon  juice. 

194.  Soles  or  Eels,  steiced. — They  may  be  first  half  fried,  so  as  to 
give  them  a  little  brownness ;  then  carefully  drain  them  from  fat; 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  set  them  on  with  as  much  good  beef 
gravy  as  will  cover  them.  Let  them  simmer  very  gently  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  or  twenty  minutes,  according  to  their  thickness,  but  be 
very  careful  thnt  they  be  not  overdone.  Take  up  the  fish  very  gently 
with  a  slice.  Thicken  the  sauce  with  flour  and  butter;  flavour  with 
mushroom  catsup  and  port  wine;  simmer  a  minute  or  two,  then, 
strain  it  over  the  fish.  Some  people  do  not  like  the  addition  of  wine, 
and  instead  thereof  mix  the  thickening  with  a  tea-cup  full  of  good 
cream,  seasoned  with  cayenne  and  nutmeg,  and  with  or  without  the 
addition  of  a  spoonful  of  catsup. 

195.  Cod. — The  head  and  shoulders,  comprehending  in  weight  two- 
thirds  or  three-quarters  of  the  fish,  is  much  better  dressed  separately; 
the  tail  being  much  thinner  would  be  broken  to  pieces  before  the 
thicker  parts  are  done.  The  best  way  of  dressing  the  tail,  is  to  fry  it. 
For  boiling  cod,  allow  plenty  of  room  and  water,  that  the  fi.-^h  may  be 
perfectly  covered.  Put  it  in  blood-warm  water,  with  a  large  handful 
of  salt.  Watch  for  its  boiling,  that  it  may  be  set  a  little  aside.  A 
small  cod  will  require  twenty  minutes  after  it  boils;  a  large  one,  hdlf 
an  hour.  When  the  fins  pull  easily,  and  the  eyes  start,  the  fish  is 
done.  Slip  it  very  carefully  on  the  fish  plate,  that  it  may  not  be 
broken.  Take  out  the  roe  and  liver,  which  are  much  esteemed  ; 
they  will  serve  to  garnish  the  dish,  together  with  horse-radish  and 
slices  of  lemon,  or  fried  smelts,  or  oysters.  Sauce,  oyster.  The  sound, 
a  fat  jelly-like  substance,  along  the  inside  of  the  backbone,  is  the  great 
delicacy  of  the  fish.  Cod  is  sometimes  boiled  in  slices.  Let  them 
be  soaked  half  an  hour  in  salt  water;  then  set  on  with  cold  spring 
water  and  salt,  just  enough  to  cover  them.  Let  it  boil  up;  then 
carefully  skim  and  set  aside  for  ten  minutes.  Serve  with  the  same 
sauce  as  above.  Slices  of  cod  are  much  better  fried  as  soles.  Slices 
of  crimped  cod,  for  boiling,  are  put  in  boiling  water,  and  when  done 

,  served  on  a  napkin.         ,  ,_  ^    ...:.. 


VI  sn.  -      69 

196.  Ling  is  a  large  finih,  somewhat  resembling-  cod,  and  may  be 
dressed  in  the  same  way,  but  is  very  inferior  in  quality. 

197.  Haddock  is  but  a  poor  fish,  make  the  best  of  it.  It  may  be 
boiled,  and  served  with  e<rg  sauce,  but  it  is  better  stuffed,  and  baked 
or  broiled,  and  served  with  good  gravy,  or  melted  butter,  flavoured 
with  anchovy  or  mushroom  catpup. 

198.  Whitings  may  be  skinned  or  not.  Fasten  the  tail  to  the 
mouth  ;  dip  the  eggs  and  bread  crumbs,  or  oatmeal,  and  fry  as  soles ; 
or  they  may  be  cut  in  three  or  four  pieces,  and  fried.  They  do  not 
take  long  to  fry ;  not  more  than  five  minutes;  but  several  minutes 
should  be  allowed  to  drain  the  fat  from  them,  as  the  ./eauty  of  them 
is  to  be  perfectly  dry.     Sauce,  anchovy,  or  parsley  and  butter. 

199.  Stiirgeo7i. — If  for  boiling  take  off  the  skin,  which  is  very  rich 
and  oily;  cut  in  slices;  season  with  pepper  and  salt;  broil  over  a 
cb'ar  fire  ;  rub  over  each  slice  a  bit  of  butter,  and  serve  with  no  other 
iccompaniment  than  lemon;  or  the  slices  may  be  dipped  in  season- 
ing or  force  meat,  twisted  in  buttered  white  paper,  and  so  broiled. 
Por  sauce,  serve  melted  butter  with  catsup.  Garnish  with  sliced 
emon,  as  the  j'lice  is  generally  used  with  the  fish. 

200.  Roast  Sturgeon. — A  piece  of  sturgeon  may  be  tied  securely 
«n  a  spit,  and  roasted.  Keep  it  constantly  basted  with  butter,  and 
when  nearly  done  dredge  with  bread  crumbs.  When  the  flakes  begin 
to  separate,  it  is  done.  It  will  take  about  half  an  hour  before  a  brisk 
fire.  Serve  with  gcwjd  gravy,  thickened  with  butter  and  flour,  and 
enrichod  with  an  anchovy,  a  glass  of  sherry  wine,  and  the  juice  of 
half  a  Seville  orange  or  lemon. 

201.  Slewed  Sturgeon. — Take  Pnouirh  gravy  to  cover  the  fish ; 
set  it  on  with  a  table-spoonful  of  salt,  a  few  corns  of  black  oepper,  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herb-,  an  onion  or  two,  scraped  horse-radisn,  and  a 
glass  of  vinegar.  Let  this  boil  a  few  minutes ;  then  set  it  aside  to 
become  pretty  cool;  then  add  the  fish;  let  it  come  gradually  to  boil; 
ar.d  then  stew  gently  till  the  fish  begins  to  break.  Take  it  off  im- 
mediately;  keep  the  fish  warm;  strain  the  gravy,  and  thicken  with 
a  good  piece  of  buttp'r ;  add  a  glass  of  port  or  sherry  wine,  a  grate  of 
nutmeg,  and  a  little  lemon  juice.  Simmer  till  it  thickens,  and  then 
pour  over  the  fish.     Sauce,  anchovy. 

202.  Mackerel,  boiled.  —  Put  them  on  with  cold  water  and  salt. 
When  the  kettle  boils,  set  it  aside,  but  watch  it  closely,  and  take  up 
the  moment  the  eyes  begin  to  start,  and  the  tail  to  split.  Sauce, 
paisley  and  butter  (fennel),  or  roe  sauce,  or  gooseberry  sauce.  Gar- 
nish, fennel  and  slices  of  lemon. 

203.  Broiled  Mackerel. — Cut  a  slit  in  the  back  that  they  may  be 
thoroughly  done.  Lay  them  on  a  clean  gridiron  (having  greased  thp 
bars),  over  a  clear,  but  rather  slow,  fire.  Sprinkle  pepper  and  salt 
over  them;  when  thoroughly  done  on  both  sides,  take  them  upon  a 
very  hot  dish  without  a  fish  plate.  Rub  a  bit  of  butter  over  each  fish, 
and  put  inside  each  a  little  fennel  and  parsley,  scalded  and  chopped, 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  bit  of  fresh  butter.  Fennel 
sauce,  parsley  and  butter. 

0 


70  •  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

204.  Baked  or  Pickled  Mackerel. — Take  off  the  heads  ;  open  the 
fish ;  take  out  the  roes,  and  clean  them  tborong-hly ;  rub  the  inside 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  allspice,  and  replace  the  roes.  Pack  the  fish 
close  in  a  deep  baking  pan;  cover  with  equal  parts  of  cold  vinegar 
and  water,  and  two  bay  loaves.  Tie  over  strong  white  paper  doubled, 
or  still  thicker.  Let  them  bake  an  hour  in  a  slow  oven.  They  may 
be  eaten  hot,  but  will  keep  ten  days  or  a  fortnight.  Cold  butter,  and 
fresh  young  fennel  (unboiled)^are  eaten  with  them.  Sprats  or  her- 
rings may  be  done  in  the  same  way. 

205.  Skate  and  Thornback. — These  fish  (like  cod)  are  frequently 
crimped,  that  i?,  slashed  in  slices,  by  which  means  the  meat  contracts, 
and  becomes  more  firm  as  the  watery  particles  escape.  Cut  them  in 
pieces,  and  boil  in  salt  and  water;  serve  with  anchovy  sauce;  or 
they  may  be  fried  with  egg  and  bread  crumbs,  as  soles;  or  stewed  as 
soles. 

206.  Smelts,  Gudgeons,  Sprats,  or  other  small  Fish,  fried. — 
Clean  and  dry  them  thoroughly  in  a  cloth,  fry  them  plain,  or  beat  an 
egg  on  a  plate,  dip  them  in  it,  and  then  in  very  fine  bread  crumbs, 
that  have  been  rubbed  through  a  sieve :  the  smaller  the  fi^^h,  the  finer 
should  be  the  bread  crumbs — biscuit  powder  is  still  better;  fry  them 
in  plenty  of  clean  lard  or  dripping;  as  soon  as  the  lard  boils  and  is 
still,  put  in  the  fish;  when  they  are  delicately  browned,  they  are 
done;  this  will  hardly  take  two  minutes.  Drain  them  on  a  hair  sieve, 
placed  before  the  fire,  turning  them  till  quite  dry. 

207.  Trout  is  sometimes  fried,  and  served  with  cri?p  parsley  and 
plain  melted  butter.  This  answers  best  for  small  fish.  They  are 
sometimes  broiled,  which  must  be  done  over  a  slow  fire,  or  they  will 
break.  While  broiling,  sprinkle  salt  and  baste  with  butter;  serve 
with  an%ovy  sauce,  to  wliich  may  bo  added  a  few  chopped  capers 
and  a  little  of  the  vinegar.  The  sauce  is  generally  poured  over 
the  fish. 

208.  Slewed  Trout. — When  the  fish  has  been  properly  washed, 
lay  it  in  a  stew-pan,  with  half  a  pint  of  claret  or  port  wine,  and  a 
quart  of  good  gravy ;  a  large  onion,  a  dozen  berries  of  black  pepper, 
the  same  of  allspice,  and  a  few  cloves,  or  a  bit  of  mace;  cover  the 
fish-kettle  close,  and  let  it  stew  gently  for  ten  or  twenty  minutes, 
according  to  the  thickness  of  the  fish  ;  take  the  fish  up,  lay  it  on  a 
hot  dish,  cover  it  up,  and  thicken  the  liquor  it  was  stewed  in  with  a 
little  flour;  season  it  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  essence  of  anchovy, 
mushroom  catsup,  and  a  little  chili  vinegar;  when  it  has  boiled  ten 
minutes,  strain  it  through  a  tamis,  and  pour  it  over  the  fish  ;  if  thera 
is  more  sauce  than  the  dish  will  hold,  send  the  rest  up  in  a  boat. 

209.  Red  Mullets. — These  delicate  fish  are  sometinjes  fried,  and 
served  with  anchovy  sauce;  but  more  frequently  either  stowed  or 
baked. 

210.  Eels,  fried.  —  Skin  and  gut  them,  and  wash  them  in  cold 
water;  cut  them  in  pieces  four  inches  long;  season  them  with  pep- 
per and  salt;  beat  an  cg^g  well  on  a  plate,  dip  them  in  the  egg,  and 
then  in  fine  bread  crumbj;  firy  them  in  fresh  clean  lard  ;  drain  thero 


FISH.  n'r  •         71 

well   from  the  fat;  g-arnish  with  crisp  parsley.     Sauce,  plain,  and 
nieitcd  buttor  shrirpf^ned  with  lemon  juice,  or  pa;sley  and  butter, 

211.  Boiled  Eels. — T\vi?t  them  round  and  round,  and  run  a  wire 
skewer  through  them.  Do  them  slowly  in  a  small  quantity  of  salt 
and  water,  with  a  s^poonful  of  vineirar,  and  a  handful  of  parsley.  They 
may  be  put  in  cold  water,  and  will  take  very  few  minutes  after  they 
boii.     Sauce,  parsley,  or  fennel,  and  butter. 

212.  Pike  or  Jack. — For  cither  bakinir  or  boiling,  it  is  upual  to 
stutithem  with  pudding.  To  pecure  it,  bind  it  round  with  narrow 
tape.  The  fish  may  be  dressed  at  full  length,  or  turned  with  its  tail 
in  its  mouth.  For  boiling,  use  hard  water  with  salt,  and  a  tea-cup 
full  of  vinegar ;  put  it  in  blood-warm,  and  when  it  boils  set  it  aside 
that  it  may  simmer  slowly.  It  will  take  from  ten  minutes  to  half  an 
hour,  according  to  its  size.  Sauce, oyster.  Garnish,  slices  of  lem.on, 
laid  alternately  with  horse-radish.  If  baked,  being  stuffed,  put  it  in 
a  deep  dish,  with  a  tea-cup  full  of  gravy,  and  soine  bits  of  butter  stuck 
over  it.     Serve  witli  rich  thickened  gravy,  and  anchovy  sauce. 

For  frying,  the  fish  is  to  be  cut  in  pieces,  and  may  be  done  with 
egg  and  bread  crumbs,  as  soles.  The  usual  sauce  is  melted  butter 
and  catsup,  but  anchovy  or  lobster  sauce  is  sometimes  used, 

213.  Carp,  fried. — The  same  as  soles;  make  sauce  of  the  roe,  and 
anchovy  sauce  with  lemon  juice. 

^14.  Carp,  stewed. — -With  the  addition  of  preserving  the  biood, 
which  is  to  be  dropped  into  port  or  cluret  wine,  well  stirring  the  whole 
time,  carp  may  be  stewed  in  tbe  same  manner  as  sturgeon,  the  wine 
and  blood  to  be  added  with  the  thickening,  and  the  whole  poured  over 
the  fish.  Sippet  of  bread  toasted,  sliced  lemon  and  barberries.  The 
earnc  process  for  lampreys. 

215.  Perch,  boiled. — Put  them  on  in  as  much  cold  spring  water  as 
will  cover  them,  with  a  handtlil  of  salt.  Let  them  boil  up  quickly; 
then  set  aside  to  simmer  slowly  for  eight,  ten,  or  fifteen  minutes,  ac- 
cording to  their  size.  Sauce,  parsley  and  butter,  or  fennel,  or  melted 
butter  with  catsup. 

216.  Salt  Fish. — It  should  be  soaked  a  considerable  time  in  soft 
water,  changing  the  water  two  or  three  times.  The  length  of  time 
required  will  be  according  to  the  hardness  or  softness  of  the  fish.  One 
night  will  do  for  that  which  has  been  but  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks 
in  salt;  but  some  require  two  or  even  three  nights'  soaking,  and  to 
be  laid  through  the  intermediate  days  on  a  stone  floor.  Set  it  on  in 
cold  or  luke-warm  water,  and  let  it  be  a  long  time  coming  to  boil.  It 
fc^liould  be  kept  at  a  slow  simmer  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a 
half.  When  done  enough,  lay  the  tin  fish-drainer  across  the  kettle; 
remove  any  straggling  bones  and  skin;  pour  through  a  quart  of  boil- 
ing watef  to  rinse  it,  and  serve  with  plenty  of  egg  sauce,  red  beet- 
root, parsnips,  and  mashed  potatoes.  Some  of  the  parsnips  and  beet- 
roots should  be  served  whd'ei,  or  in  slices  for  garnish,  together  with 
horse-radish,  and  a  di^  "also  of  equal  parts  of  red  beet-root  and^jars- 
nips,  mashed  together,  with  pepper,  butter,  and  cream.  Salt  fish  is 
sometimes  served  with  the  vegetables.     When  boiled  as  above,  it  is 


72  THE     COMPLETE    COOK. 

broken  in  flakes,  and  stewed  a  few  minutes  in  good  gravy,  flavoured 
with  onions  or  eschalots,  but  not  salted,  and  thickened  with  flour,  but- 
ter, and  cream  ;  then  beat  up  with  it  either  potatoes,  or  parsnips  and 
beet-root,  mashed  with  cream  and  butter.  Sauce,  egg.  Salt  fish, 
whether  cod,  ling,  haddock,  or  salmon,  is  often  cut  in  slices,  soaked 
in  beer,  and  broiled  as  red  herrings  for  a  breakfast  relish. 

217.  Terrapins. — This  is  a  favourite  dish  for  suppers  and  parties ; 
and,  when  well  cooked,  they  are  certainly  very  delicious.  Many 
persons  in  Philadelphia  have  made  themselves  famous  for  cooking  this 
article  alone.  Mrs.  Rubicam,  who  during  her  lifetime  always  stood  first 
in  that  way,  prepared  them  as  follows.  Put  the  terrapins  alive  in  a  pot 
of  boiling  water,  where  they  must  remain  until  they  are  quite  dead. 
You  then  divest  them  of  their  outer  skin  and  toe-nails ;  and,  after 
washing  them  in  warm  water,  boil  them  again  until  they  become  quite 
tender,  adding  a  handful  of  salt  to  the  water.  Having  satisfied  your- 
self of  their  being  perfectly  tender,  take  oflr'  the  shells  and  clean  the 
terrapins  very  carefully,  removing  the  sand-bag  and  gall  without 
breaking  them.  Then  cut  the  meat  and  entrails  into  small  pieces, 
and  put  into  a  saucepan,  adding  the  juice  which  has  been  given  out 
in  cutting  them  up,  but  no  water,  and  season  with  salt,  cayenne,  and 
black  pepper,  to  your  taste  ;  adding  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  but- 
ter to  each  terrapin,  and  a  handful  of  flour  for  thickening.  After  stir-_ 
ring  a  short  time,  add  four  or  five  table-spoonfulsof  cream,  and  a  half 
pint  of  good  Madeira  to  every  four  terrapins,  and  serve  hot  in  a  deep 
dish.  Our  own  cook  has  been  in  the  habit  of  putting  in  a  very  little 
mace,  a  large  table-spoonful  of  mustard,  and  ten  drops  of  the  gall ; 
and,  just  before  serving,  adding  the  yolks  of  four  hard  boiled  eggs. 
During  the  stewing,  particular  attention  must  be  paid  to  stirring  the 
preparation  frequently ;  and  it  must  be  borne  in  mind,  that  terrapins 
cannot  possibly  be  too  hot. 

218.  Oysters  au  gratin. — Take  the  best  oysters  you  can  find,  and 
dry  them  on  a  napkin ;  you  then  place  them  on  a  silver  shell,  made 
expressly  for  the  purpose,  or  fine,  large,  deep  oyster  shells,  if  handier, 
which  should  be  well  cleaned,  placing  in  them  four  or  six  oysters, 
according  to  their  size ;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  parsley, 
mushrooms  hashed  very  fine,  a  small  quantity  of  bread  crumbs,  with 
which  the  surface  of  the  oysters  must  be  covered,  placing  on  top  of 
all  a  small  piece  of  the  best  butter.  Then  put  them  in  a  hot  oven, 
and  let  them  remain  until  they  acquire  a  golden  colour.  Serve 
them  hot. 

219.  Oysters,  stewed. — For  this  purpose  the  beard  or  fringe  is 
generally  taken  off.  If  this  is  done,  set  on  the  beards  with  the  liquor 
of  the  oysters,  and  a  little  white  gravy,  rich  but  unseasoned ;  iiiaving 
boiled  a  few  minutes,  strain  oflf  the  beards,  put  in  the  oysters,  and 
thicken  the  gravy  with  flour  and  butter  (an  ounce  of  butter  to  half  a 
pint  of  stew,)  a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  or  mace,  a  spoonful  of 
catsup,  and  three  of  cream;  some  prefer  a  little  essence  of  anchovy  to 
catsup,  others  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  others  a  glass  of  white  wine ;  the 
flavour  may  be  varied  according  to  taste.    Simmer  till  the  stew  is 


ROASTING.  HI  73 

thick,  and  warmed  through,  but  avoid  letting:  them  boil.     Lay  toasted 
sippets  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish  and  round  the  edg-es. 

220.  A  more  simple, and,  as  we  think,a  better  method  is  to  put,  say  two 
hundred  oysters  in  a  saucepan  with  nothing  but  their  own  juice ;  place 
tlitm  on  a  brisk  tire,  and  let  them  remain,  stirring  them  occasionally, 
until  they  begin  to  boil,  then  remove  them,  and  pass  the  juice  through 
a  tin  colander,  leaving  the  oysters  to  drain.  Then  mix  well  together 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  good  butter,  and  a  handful  of  flour. 
When  this  is  done,  strain  the  juice  of  the  oysters  through  a  sieve  into 
the  saucepan  containing  the  butter  and  flour,  and  put  it  on  the  fire 
again,  and  add  pepper  and  salt  to  your  taste,  stirring  the  whole  fre- 
quently and  briskly.  When  it  begins  to  boil  again,  add  the  oysters, 
and  the  following  articles,  well  beaten  together,  viz.,  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  milk,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon; 
whilst  adding  these,  stir  the  whole  briskly,  and  serve  immediately. 

221.  Oysters^  fried. — Large  oysters  are  the  best  for  this  purpose. 
Simmer  for  a  minute  or  two  in  their  own  liquor;  drain  perfectly  dry; 
dip  in  yolks  of  eggs,  and  then  in  bread  crumbs,  seasoned  with  nutmeg, 
cayenne,  and  salt ;  fry  them  of  a  light  brown.  They  are  chiefly  used 
as  garnish  for  fish,  or  for  rump  steaks;  but  if  intended  to-be  eaten 
alone,  make  a  little  thick  melted  butter,  moistened  with  the  liquor  of 
the  oysters,  and  serve  as  sauce. 

222.  Broiled  Oysters. — The  oysters  should  be  the  largest  and  finest 
you  can  get.  Prepare  your  gridiron,  which  should  b'-  a  double  one 
made  of  wire,  by  rubbing  with  butter,  and  having  placed  your  oysters 
6o  that  they  will  all  receive  the  heat  equally,  set  tl -.^m  over  a  brisk 
fire,  and  broil  both  sides  without  burning  them.  Let  them  be  served 
hot,  with  a  small  lump  of  fresh  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  added  to  them. 
Some  establishments  serve  them  egged  and  breaded;  either  way, 
however,  they  are  goo^. 

ROASTING. 

223.  Mind  that  your  spit  is  clean,  and  take  care  that  it  passes 
through  the  meat  as  little  as  possible.  Before  it  is  spitted,  see  that 
the  meat  is  jointed  properly,  particularly  necks  and  loins.  When  on 
the  spit  it  must  be  evenly  balanced,  that  its  motion  may  be  regular, 
and  all  parts  equally  done ;  for  this  purpose,  take  care  to  be  provided 
with  balancing  skewers  and  cookholds  ;  a  cradle  spit  is  the  best. 

224.  The  bottle  or  vertical  jacTv  is  an  excellent  instrument  for 
roasting,  better  than  spits  for  joints  under  forty  pounds;  but  if  you 
have  neither  of  these  things,  as  is  often  the  case  in  small  families,  a 
woollen  string  tv^isted  round  a  door  key  makes  a  good  substitute.  In 
this  case  a  strong  skewer  should  be  passed  through  each  end  of  the 
joint,  in  order  that  it  may  be  conveniently  turned  bottom  upwards, 
which  will  insure  an  equality  of  roasting  and  an  equal  distribution  of 
the  gravy.  A  Dutch  oven  is  a  convenient  utensil  for  roasting  small 
joints;  but  by  far  the  best  and  most  economical  thing  of  the  kind  is, 
improperly,  called  the  American  oven,  by  which  you  may  roast  meat 
bctbrc  a  sjtfing-room   fire,  without  any  extra  fuoi,  and  without  the 

C?  *     .  ■'■  '   -  -    ^>    .  ■»••■ 


74  T  H  E    C  O  M  r  L  E  T  E    C  O  O  K. 

slightest  inconvenience  to  the  persons  occupying  the  apartment. 
This  contrivance  will  save,  in  the  course  of  a  year,  all  the  expense, 
and  more,  of  its  original  cost,  in  bakings,  with  this  additional  consi- 
deration, that  meat  so  dressed  will  be  equal  to  roasted  meat.  Meat 
cooked  in  a  common  oven,  to  say  nothing  of  the  abstracting  of  the 
dripping  by  the  generality  of  bakers,  is  greatly  inferior,  both  in  flavour 
and  tenderness,  to  that  dressed  in  the  American  oven,  where  the  air 
is  not  confined.  It  is  not,  however,  meat  alone  that  may  be  dressed 
in  the  American  oven.  All  sorts  of  cakes  may  be  made  in  it,  and 
indeed,  all  the  operations  of  baking  and  roasting  may  be  performed 
by  it,  on  a  limited  scale,  but  sufficiently  large  tor  a  small  family  in 
contracted  circumstances;  in  short,  with  the  addition  of  the  recent 
improvement,  a  sort  of  oval  iron  covering,  we  have  baked  bread  before 
a  parlour  fire  as  perfectly  as  it  could  be  produced  by  the  regular  pro- 
cess of  baking;  in  one  word,  no  family,  whether  in  poor  or  middling 
circumstances,  ought  to  be  without  the  American  oven,  which  may 
be  had  for  a  few  shillings. 

225.  The  fire  for  roasting  should  be  made  up  in  time,  but  it  is 
better  not  to  be  very  hot  at  first.  The  fire  should,  in  point  of  size, 
be  suited,  to  the  dinner  to  be  dressed,  and  a  few  inches  longer  at  each 
end  than  the  article  to  be  roasted,  or  the  ends  will  not  be  done. 

226.  Never  put  meat  down  to  a  fierce  fire,  or  one  thoroughly 
burnt  up,  if  you  can  possibly  avoid  it;  but  if  not,  you  must  take  care 
and  place  it  a  considerable  distance  from  the  grate ;  indeed,  meat 
should  always  be  done  slowly  at  first;  it  is  impossible  to  roast  a  joint 
of  very  considerable  size  well  under  some  hours.  It  is  said  that 
George  III.,  who  lived  principally  upon  plain  roasted  and  boiled  joints, 
employed  cooks  who  occupied  four,  five,  or  even  six  hours  in  roasting 
a  single  joint;  but  the  result  amply  repaid  the  loss  of  labour  and 
time;  the  meat  was  full  of  gravy,  perfectly  tender,  and  of  a  delicious 
flavour. 

227.  In  placing  paper  over  the  fat  to  preserve  it,  never  use  pins  or 
skewers;  they  operate  as  so  many  taps,  to  carry  off  the  gravy;  be- 
sides, the  paper  frequently  starts  from  the  skewers,  and  is,  conse- 
quently, liable  to  take  fire,  to  the  great  injury  of  both  the  flavour  and 
appearance  of  the  meat.  For  these  reasons,  always  fasten  on  your 
paper  with  tape,  twine,  or  any  other  suitable  string. 

228.  The  fire  should  be  proportioned  to  the  quantity  of  the  meat 
intended  to  be  roasted,  as  we  have  intimated  above.  For  large  joints 
make  up  a  good  strong  fire,  equal  in  every  part  of  the  grate,  and  well 
backed  by  cinders  or  small  coals.  Take  care  that  the  fire  is  bright 
and  clear  in  the  front.  The  larger  the  joint  to  be  roasted,  the  farther 
tt  must  be  kept  from  the  fire  till  nearly  done — mind  that.  When 
you  have  to  roast  a  thin  and  tender  thing,  let  your  fire  be  little  and 
brisk. 

229.  When  your  fire  is  moderately  good,  your  meat,  unless  very 
small,  ought  not  to  be  put  down  nearer  than  from  ten  to  fifteen  inches 
off  the  grate;  in  some  instances  a  greater  distance  would  be  prefer- 
able, but  it  is  impossible  to  lay  down  any  definite  rule  on  this  subject. 

2t30.  Slow  roasting,  like  slow  boiling,  is  the  best,  and  the  more 


ROASTING,      BROILING,     &C.  75 

slow,  in  reason,  the  better.  The  time  usually  directed  to  be  allowed 
for  roasting  m^at,  where  the  fire  is  good,  the  meat  screen  sufficiently 
large,  and  the  meat  not  frosted,  is  rather  more  than  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  to  a  pound,  but  we  take  this  to  be  too  short  a  time;  however, 
the  cook  must  judge  for  herself;  much  will  depend  upon  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  atmosphere,  fee,  and  more  upon  the  degree  of  basting  it 
has  undergone.  The  more  the  meat  is  basted  the  less  time  it  will 
take  to  do^  for  the  meat  is  rendered  soft  and  mellow  outside,  and  con- 
sequently, admits  the  lieat  to  act  upon  the  inside.  On  the  contrary, 
meat  rendered  hard  on  the  outside  by  having  too  hot  a  fire,  or  neglect- 
ing to  baste,  the  fire  is  prevented  from  operating  upon  the  interior. 
When  the  meat  is  half  done  the  fire  should  be  well  stirred  for  brown- 
ing, that  is,  it  must  be  made  to  burn  brightly  and  clearly.  When 
the  steam  begins  to  rise,  depend  upon  it  the  meat  is  thoroughly  done, 
that  is,  well  saturated  with  heat,  and  all  that  goes  off  from  the  meat 
in  evaporation  is  an  absolute  waste  of  its  most  savoury  and  nourish- 
ing particles. 

231.  A  good  cook  will  be  particular  to  place  her  dripping  pan  so 
as  to  catch  the  dripping,  but  not  the  loose  hot  coals  which  may  chance 
to  fall  from  the  fire.  Your  dripping  pan  should  be  large,  not  lesa 
than  twenty-eight  inches  long  and  twenty  inches  broad,  and  should 
have  a  well  covered  well  on  the  side  from  the  fire,  to  collect  the  drip- 
ping; "this,"  says  Dr.  Kitchiner,  "  will  preserve  it  in  the  most  deli- 
cate state." 

232.  Roasting  and  boiling,  as  being  the  most  common  operations 
in  cooking,  are  generally  considered  the  most  easy  ;  this  is  a  great 
error:  roasting,  m  particular,  requires  unremitting  attention  toper- 
form  it  well,  much  more  so  than  stewing,  or  the  preparing  many  made 
dishes.  A  celebrated  French  author,  in  the  Almanack  des  Gout' 
manils,  says,  that  "  the  art  of  roasting  victuals  to  the  precise  degree, 
is  one  of  the  mo.-t  difficult  things  in  this  world,  and  ijou  mayjind  half 
a  thousand  good  cooks  sooner  than  one  perfect  roaster ;  Jive  minutes 
on  the  spiff  more  or  less,  decide  the  goodness  of  this  mode  of 
cookery.'' 

ROASTmG,   BROILING,  AND  FRYING. 

Before  entering  into  any  detail  as  to  the  best  method  of  preparing 
the  different  dishes  imder  this  head,  we  must  recommend  the  young 
cook  to  again  carefully  read  our  preliminary  observations  on  roasting. 
We  may  here  too  be  allowed  to  er.ter  our  most  decided  protest  against 
baking  meat,  generally  speakin-g — whether  in  the  common  brick 
oven,  or  in  the  iron  ovens  attached  to  kitchen  ranges,  particularly  in 
the  latter,  unless  they  have  a  draught  of  air  through  them,  when  they 
will  dress,  or  rather  roast  meat  very  well.  Meat  cannot  be  subjected 
to  the  influence  of  fire  without  injury,  unless  it  is  open  to  the  air,  by 
which  the  exhalations  are  carried  off,  and  the  natural  flavour  of  the 
meat  is  preserved.  Under  the  idea  of  saving  fuel,  persons  are  induced 
to  use  stoves  in  their  kitchen  instead  of  ranges.     They  should  con- 


76  .  ;>   T  H  E    C  O  M  P  L  E  T  E     COOK.       u 

sider,  however,  that  baking"  not  only  injures  the  meat,  but  absolutely 
Kpoils  the  dripping,  which  from  roasted  meat  is  much^^nore  valuable 
than  the  extra  cost  of  coals.  For  a  small  family,  we  recommend  the 
bottle  jack — and  for  large  establishments,  a  kitchen  range,  a  smoke 
jack,  and  the  usual  quantity  of  plating  for  stewing,  or  boiling-.  In 
the  following  receipts  we  have  generally  indicated  the  time  which  a 
joint  will  take  roasting,  but  a  good  cook  will  never  wholly  depend 
upon  lime,  either  in  roasting  or  boiling;  she  ought  to  exercise  her 
own  judgment,  as  to  whether  a  thing  is  done  or  not  When  roast 
meat  streams  towards  the  fire,  it  is  a  sure  sign  that  the  meat  is  nearly 
done.  On  no  account,  whatever,  should  gravy  be  poured  over  any 
thing  that  is  roasted.  It  makes  the  meat  insipid,  and  washes  oil  the 
frothing,  or  dredging. 

233.  Sirloin  of  Beef,  roasted.  —  Sirloin  or  ribs,  of  about  fifteen 
pounds,  will  require  to  be  before  a  large  sound  fire  about  three  and 
a  half  or  four  hours;  take  care  to  spit  it  evenly,  that  it  may  not  be 
heavier  on  one  side  than  the  other;  put  a  little  clean  drippinj?  in  the 
dripping  pan  (tie  a  piece  of  paper  over  it  to  preserve  the  fat),  b-tste  it 
well  as  soon  as  it  is  put  down,  and  every  quarter  of  an  hour  all  the 
time  it  is  roasting,  till  the  last  half  hour;  then  take  off  the  paper,  and 
make  some  gravy  for  it;  stir  the  fire  and  make  it  clear;  to  brown 
and  froth  it,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  it,  baste  it  with  butter,  and 
dredge  it  with  flour;  let  it  go  a  few  minutes  longer,  till  the  froth 
ri^"■  3;  take  it  up.  Garnish  it  with  a  hillock  of  horse-radish,  scraped 
at  fine  as  possible  with  a  very  sharp  knife.  A  Yorkshire  pudding  is 
an  excellent  accompaniment.  The  inside  of  the  sirloin  should  never 
be  cut  hot,  but  reserved  entire  for  the  hosh,  or  a  mock  hare. 

234.  Rump  and  Round. — Rump  and  rounds  of  beef  are  sometimes 
roasted  ;  they  require  thorough  doing,  and  much  basting  to  keep  the 
outside  from  being  dry.  It  should  be  before  the  fire  from  three  hours, 
and  upwards,  nccording  to  size.     Gravy  and  garrnsh  as  above. 

235.  Mock  Hare.  —  The  inside  lean  of  a  sirloin  of  beef  may  be 
dresse^l  so  as  to  resemble  hare,  and  is  by  many  people  greatly  pre- 
ferred to  it.  Make  a  good  stuffing.  If  possible,  get  the  inside  meat 
of  the  whole  length  of  sirloin,  or  even  of  two,  lay  the  stuffing  on  half 
the  length,  turn  the  other  end  over  and  sew  up  the  two  sides  with  a 
strong  twine,  that  will  easily  draw  out  when  done ;  roast  it  nicely, 
taking  care  to  baste  it  well,  and  serve  with  sauces  and  garnishes  the 
same  as  hare;  or,  it  may  be  partly  roasted  and  then  stewed,  in  rich 
thickened  gravy  with  force  meat  balls,  and  sauce. 

236i  Ribs  of  Beef ,  boned.  — Take  out  the  ribs,  &c.  and  roll  it  ag- 
round as  possible;  bind  with  tape  ;  roast  with  or  without  veal  stuffing, 
laid  over  before  rolling.     Thoroughly  soak  it,  and  brown  it  before  a 
quick  fire.      Roast  beef  accompaniments,  and,  if  liked,  wow-womt 
sauce. 

237.  Roasting  Mutton.  —  A  saddle  of  mutton  of  ten  or  twelve 
pounds  will  take  from  two  hours  and  a  half  to  three  hours  roasting. 
Mutton  should  be  put  before  a  brisk  fire;  a  saddle  of  mutton  requires 
to  be  protected  from  the  heat  by  covering  it  with  paper,  which  should 


ROASTING,     BROILING,     &,  C  .  77 

be  taken  off  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  it  is  done ;  when  of  a 
paie-brown  colour,  baste  it;  flour  it  lightly  to  froth.  The  leg  of 
mutton,  the  shoulder,  the  loin,  the  neck,  the  breast,  and  the  haunch^ 
require  the  same  treatment  as  the  saddle,  with  the  exception  of 
papering,  which,  however,  may  be  sometimes  required.  The  haunch 
should  be  served  with  plain  but  rich  mutton  sauce,  and  with  sweet 
sauce  ;  of  course  separately. 

238.  Mutton,  Venison  fashion.  —  Hang  till  fit  for  dressing  a  good 
neck  of  mutton  ;  two  days  before  dressing  it,  rub  it  well  twice  each 
day  with  powdered  allspice,  and  black  pepper ;  roast  it  in  paste,  as 
ordered  for  the  haunch  of  venison. 

239.  Roasting  Veal. — This  meat  r'^quires  particular  care  to  roast 
it  a  nice  brown  ;  the  fire  should  be  the  same  as  for  beef;  a  sound 
large  fire  for  a  large  joint,  and  a  brisker  for  a  smaller:  soak  tho- 
roughly, and  then  bring  it  nearer  the  fire  to  brown  ;  baste  on  first 
pulling  down,  and  occasionally  afterwards.  When  done  and  dished, 
pour  over  it  melted  butter,  with  or  without  a  little  brown  gravy. 
Veal  joints,  not  stuffed,  may  be  served  with  force  meat  balls,  or  rolled 
into  sausages  as  garnish  to  the  dish ;  or  fried  pork  sausages.  Bacon 
or  ham,  and  greens,  are  generally  eaten  with  veal. 

240.  Fillet  of  Veal  of  from  twelve  to  sixteen  pounds  will  require 
from  four  or  five  hours  at  a  good  fire ;  make  some  stuffing  or  force 
meat,  and  put  it  under  the  flap,  that  there  may  be  some  left  to  eat 
cold,  or  to  season  a  hash  ;  brown  it,  and  pour  good  melted  butter  over 
it ;  garnish  with  thin  slices  of  lemon  and  cakes  or  balls  of  stuffing. 
A  loin  is  the  best  part  of  the  calf,  and  will  take  about  three  hours 
roasting ;  paper  the  kidney  fat  and  back.  A  shoulder  from  three 
hours  to  three  hours  and  a  half;  stuff  it  with  the  force  meat  ordered 
for  the  fillet  of  veal,  or  balls  made  of  271.  Neck,  best  end,  will  take 
two  hours;  same  accompaniments  as  the  fillet.  The  scrag  part  is 
best  in  a  pie  or  broth.  Breast  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours. 
Let  the  caul  remain  till  it  is  almost  done,  then  take  it  off  to  brown  it; 
baste,  flour  and  froth  it. 

241.  Veal  Sweetbread. — Trim  a  fine  sweetbread  (it  cannot  be  too 
fresh),  parboil  it  for  five  minutes,  and  throw  it  into  a  basin  of  cold 
water.  Roast  it  plain,  or  beat  up  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  prepare 
some  bread  crumbs.  When  the  sweetbread  is  cold,  dry  it  thoroughly 
in  a  cloth;  run  a  lark-spit  or  a  skewer  through  it,  and  tie  it  on  the 
ordinary  spit;  egg  it  with  a  paste-brush  ;  powder  it  well  with  bread 
crumbs,  and  roast  it.  For  sauce,  fried  bread  crumbs  round  it,  and 
melted  butter,  with  a  little  mushroom  catsup,  or  serve  them  on  but- 
tered toast,  garnished  with  egg  sauce,  or  with  gravy.  Instead  of 
spitting  them,  you  may  put  them  into  a  tin  dutch  oven  or  fry  them. 

242.  Roasting  Lamb.  —  To  the  usual  accompaniments  of  roasted 
meat,  Iamb  requires  green  mint  sauce  or  salad,  or  both.  Some  cooks, 
about  five  minutes  before  it  is  done,  sprinkle  it  with  a  little  fresh- 
gathered  and  finely  minced  parsley,  or  crisped  parsley.  Lamb  and 
all  3^oung  meats  ought  to  be  thoroughly  done ;  therefore,  do  not  take 
eithe"  lamb  or  veal  oflT  the  spit  till  you  see  it  drop  white  gravy. 


■^ 


THE     COMFLETE     COOK. 


VVhfin  green  mint  cannot  be  got,  mint  vinegar  is  an  acsrptable  sub- 
Btitute  tor  it,  and  crisp  parsley,  on  a  side  plate,  is  an  admirable 
accompaniment.  Hind-quarter  of  eight  pounds  will  take  from  an 
hour  and  three-quarters  to  two  hours;  baste,  and  froth  it.  A  quarter 
of  a  porkling  is  sometimes  skinned,  cut,  and  dressed  lamb  Cushion,  and 
sent  up  as  a  substitute  for  it.  The  leg  and  the  loin  of  lamb,  when 
little,  should  be  roasted  together,  the  former  being  lean,  the  latter  fat, 
and  the  gravy  is  better  preserved.  Fore-quarter  often  pounds,  about 
two  hours,  ft  is  a  pretty  general  custom,  when  you  lake  off  the 
shoulder  from  the  ribs,  to  squeeze  a  Seville  orange,  or  lemon,  over 
them,  and  sprinkle  them  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  this  may  be 
done  by  the  cook  before  it  comes  to  table.  Some  peo;>le  are  not 
remarkably  expert  at  dividing  these  joints  nicely.  Leg  of  five 
pounds,  from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half.  Shoulder,  with  a  quick 
fircj  an  hour.  Ribs,  almost  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  quarter;  joint 
them  nicely,  crack  the  ribs  across,  and  divide  them  from  the  brisket 
after  it  is  roasted.  Loi?i,  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  Neck,  an  hour. 
Breast  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

243.  Roasting  Pork.  —  If  this  meat  be  not  well  done,  thoroughly 
well  done,  it  is  disgusting  to  the  sight  and  poisonous  to  the  stomach. 
"In  the  gravy  of  pork,  if  there  is  the  least  tint  of  redness,"  says  Dr. 
Kitchiner,  "  it  is  enough  to  appal  the  sharpest  appetite.  Other  moots 
under-done  are  unpleasant,  but  pork  is  absolutely  uneatable."  A  Leg 
of  eight  pounds  will  require  about  three  hours;  score  the  skin  across 
in  narrow  stripes  (some  score  it  in  diamonds)  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  apart;  stuff  the  knuckle  with  sage  and  onion  minced  fine,  and  a 
little  grated  bread,  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg. 
See  252  and  270.  Do  not  put  it  too  near  the  fire  ;  rub  a  little  sweet 
oil  on  the  skin  with  a  paste-brush,  or  a  goose- feather ;  this  makes  the 
crackling  crisper  and  browner  than  basting  it  with  dripping,  and  it 
will  be  a  better  colour  than  all  the  art  of  cookery  can  make  it  in  any 
other  way  ;  and  this  is  the  best  way  of  preventing  the  skin  from 
blistering,  which  is  principally  occasioned  by  its  being  put  too  near 
the  fire. 

244.  Leg  of  Pork  roasted  loithout  the  skin ;  or  Mock  Goose. — 
Parboil  a  leg  of  pork,  take  off  the  skin,  and  then  put  it  down  to  roast; 
baste  it  with  butter,  and  make  a  savoury  powder  of  finely  minced  of 
dried  or  powdered  sage,  ground  black  pepper,  salt,  and  some  bread 
crumbs  rubbed  together  through  a  colander ;  you  may  add  to  this  a 
little  very  finely  minced  onion;  sprinkle  it  with  this  when  it  is  almost . 
roasted  ;  put  a  half  pint  of  made  gravy  into  the  dish,  and  goose  stuffing  ' 
tinder  the  knuckle  skin,  or  garnish  the  dish  with  balls  of  it,  fried  or 
broiled. 

245.  Spare  rib :  when  you  put  it  down  to  roast,  dust  on  some  flour. . 
and  baste  it  with  a  little  butter ;  dry  a  dozen  sage  leaves,  rub  thenr 
through  a  hair  sieve,  put  them  into  the  top  of  a  pepper  box,  and  about 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  the  meat  is  done  baste  it  with  butter;  du.st 
the  pulverised  sage,  or  savoury  powder,  in,  or  sprinkle  it  with  duck 
stuffing  ;  some  people  prefer  it  plain. 


fl  o  A  s  T I N  a .  79 

246.  Loin  of  Pork,  of  five  pounds,  must  be  kept  at  a  good  distance 
from  the  fire,  on  account  of  the  crackling,  and  will  take  about  two 
hours — if  very  fat,  half  an  hour  longer:  stuff  it  with  duck  stuffing 
(252  and  270 ;)  score  the  skin  in  stripes  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
apart,  and  rub  it  with  salad  oil.  You  may  sprinkle  over  it  some  of 
the  savoury  powder  recommended  for  the  mock  goose  (244.) 

247.  Sucking  Pf^  should  be  about  three  weeks  old,  and  it  ought  to 
be  dressed  as  quickly  as  possible  after  it  is  killed;  if  not  quite  fresh, 
the  crackling  can  never  be  made  crisp.  It  requires  constant  attentior^ 
and  great  care  in  roasting.  As  the  ends  require  more  fire  than  the 
middle,  an  instrument  called  the  pig-iron  has  been  contrived  to  hang 
before  the  latter  part.  A  common  flat  iron  will  answer  the  purpose, 
or  the  fire  may  be  kept  fiercest  at  the  ends.  A  good  stuffing  m;iy  be 
made  as  follows : — Take  five  or  six  ounces  of  the  crumb  of  stale  bread ; 
crumble  and  rub  through  a  colander;  mince  very  fine  a  handful  of 
sage,  and  a  large  onion;  mix  with  an  egg,  pepper,  salt,  and  apiece  of 
butter  about  the  size  of  an  egg  ;  fill  the  belly,  and  sew  it  up  ;  put  it 
to  the  fire,  and  baste  it  with  butter  tied  up  in  a  rag,  by  applying  it  to 
the  back  of  the  pig.  Kitchiner  recommends  bastinfr  it  with  olive  oil 
till  it  is  done.  It  should  never  be  left.  It  should  be  placed  before  a 
clear  brisk  fire,  at  some  distance;  and  great  care  should  be  taken 
that  the  crackling  should  be  nicely  crisped,  and  delicately  browned. 
It  will  require  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  pig.  When  first  put  to  the  fire,  it  should  be  rubbed  all 
over  with  fresh  butter,  or  salad  oil ;  ten  minutes  after  this,  and  when 
the  skin  looks  dry,  dredge  it  well  with  flour  all  over.  Let  this  re« 
main  on  an  hour,  and  then  rub  it  off  with  a  soft  cloth.  A  sucking  pig 
being  very  troublesome  to  roast,  is  frequently  sent  to  the  oven.  A 
clever  baker  will  do  it  so  as  to  be  almost  equal  to  roasted  ;  he  will  re- 
quire a  quarter  of  a  pound  af  butter,  and  should  be  told  to  baste  it  well. 
(See  284.)  Before  you  take  the  pig  from  the  fire,  cut  off  the  head, 
and  part  that  and  the  body  down  the  middle;  chop  the  brains  very  fine 
with  some  boiled  sage  leaves,  and  mix  them  with  good  veal  or  beef 
gravy,  or  what  runs  from  the  pig  when  you  cut  the  head  off.  Send 
up  a  tureen  full  of  gravy  besides.  Currant  sauce  is  still  a  favourite 
with  some  of  the  old  school.  Lay  your  pig  back  to  back  in  the  dish,  with 
one  half  of  the  head  on  each  side,  and  the  ears  at  each  end,  which  you 
must  take  care  to  make  nice  and  crisp,  or  you  will  get  scolded,  and 
deservedly.  When  you  cut  off  the  pettitoes,  leave  the  skin  long,  round 
the  end  of  the  legs. 

248.  Turkey,  Turkey  Poults,  and  other  Poultry. — A  fowl  and  a 
turkey  require  the  same  management  at  the  fire,  only  the  latter  will 
take  longer  time.  Let  them  be  carefiilly  picked,  break  the  breast- 
bone (to  make  them  look  plump,)  and  thoroughly  singe  them  with  a 
sheet  of  clean  writing  paper.  Prepare  a  nice  brisk  fire  for  them. 
Make  stuffing  according  to  269;  stuff  them  under  the  breast  wliere 
the  craw  was  taken  out;  and  make  some  into  balls,  and  boil  or  fry 
them,  and  lay  them  round  the  dish;  they  are  handy  to  help,  and  you 
can  reserve  some  of  the  inside  stuffing  to  eat  with  the  cold  turkey,  ar 


80  THE     COMPLETE    COOK. 

to  enrich  a  hash.  Score  the  gizzard  ;  dip  it  in  the  yolk  of  an  err?,  or 
melted  butter,  and  sprinkle  it  with  salt  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne; 
put  it  under  one  pinion,  and  the  liver  under  the  other;  cover  the  liver 
with  buttered  paper,  to  prevent  it  getting-  hardened  or  buint.  When 
you  first  put  your  turkey  down  to  roast,  dredge  it  with  flour,  then  put 
about  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a  basting  ladle,  and  as  it  melts  baste  the 
bird.  Keep  it  at  a  distance  from  the  fire  for  the  first  half  hour  that  it 
may  warm  gradually,  then  put  it  nearer,  and  when  it  is  plumped  up, 
and  the  steam  draws  towards  the  fire,  it  is  nearly  done  enough  ;  then 
dredge  it  lightly  with  flour,  and  put  a  bit  of  butter  into  your  bastinfif 
ladle,  and  as  it  melts  baste  the  turkey  with  it;  this  will  raise  a  finer 
froth  than  can  be  produced  by  using  the  fat  out  of  the  pan.  A  very 
large  turkey  will  require  about  three  hours  to  roast  it  thoroughly  ;  a 
middling  sized  one,  of  eight  or  ten  pounds,  about  two  hours ;  a  small 
one  may  be  done  in  an  hour  and  a  half.  Turkey  poults  are  of  various 
eizes,  and  will  take  about  an  hour  and  a  half  Fried  pork  sausages 
are  a  very  savoury  accompaniment  to  either  roasted  or  boiled  turkey. 
Sausage  meat  is  sometimes  used  as  a  stuffing,  instead  of  the  ordinary 
force  meat.  If  you  wish  a  tcrkey,  especially  a  very  large  one,  to  be 
tender,  never  dress  it  till  at  least  four  or  five  days  (in  cold  weather, 
eight  or  ten)  after  it  has  been  killed,  unless  it  be  dressed  immediately 
after  killing,  before  the  flesh  is  cold ;  be  very  careful  not  to  let  it 
freeze.  Hen  turkeys  are  preferable  to  cocks  for  whiteness  and 
tenderness,  and  the  small  tender  ones,  with  black  legs,  are  most 
esteemed.  Send  up  with  them  oyster,  egg,  and  plenty  of  gravy 
sauce. 

249.  Capons  or  Fowls  must  be  killed  a  couple  of  days  in  moderate, 
and  more  in  cold,  weather,  before  they  are  dressed,  unless  dressed 
immediately  they  are  killed,  or  they  will  eat  tough  :  a  good  criterion 
of  the  ripeness  of  poultry  for  the  spit,  is  the  ease  with  which  you  can 
pull  out  the  feathers;  when  a  fowl  is  plucked,  leave  a  few  to  help  you 
to  ascertain  this.  They  are  managed  exactly  in  the  same  manner, 
and  sent  up  with  the  same  sauces,  as  a  turkey,  only  they  require  pro- 
portionably  less  time  at  the  fire-^a  full-grown  five-toed  fowl  about  an 
hour  and  a  quarter;  a  moderate  sized  one,  an  hour;  a  chicken,  from 
thirty  to  forty  minutes.  Have  also  pork  sausages  fried,  as  they  are  in 
general  a  favourite  accompaniment,  or  turkey  stuffing;  see  Force 
meats,  278 ;  put  in  plenty  of  it,  so  as  to  plump  out  the  fowl,  which 
must  be  tied  closely  (both  at  the  neck  and  rump,)  to  keep  in  the  stuflf^ 
ing;  some  cooks  put  the  liver  of  the  fowl  into  this  force  meat,  and 
others  mince  it  and  pound  it,  and  rub  up  with  flour  and  melted  butter. 
When  the  bird  is  stuffed  and  trussed,  score  the  gizzard  nicely;  dip  it 
into  melted  butter ;  let  it  drain,  and  then  season  it  with  cayenne  and 
salt ;  put  it  under  one  pinion,  and  the  liver  under  the  other;  to.  pre- 
vent their  getting  hardened  or  scorched,  cover  them  with  double  pa- 
per buttered.  Take  care  that  your  roasted  poultry  be  well  browned;, 
it  is  as  indispensable  that  roasted  poultry  should  have  a  rich  brown] 
complexion,  as  that  boiled  poultry  should  have  a  delicate  white  one. 


ROASTING.  81 

For  sauces,  see  111 ;  or  liver  and  parsley,  and  those  ordered  in  the 
last  receipt. 

250.  Goose. — When  a  goose  is  well  picked,  singed  and  cleaned, 
make  the  stuffing  with  about  two  ounces  of  onion,  and  half  as  much 
green  sage ;  chop  them  very  fine,  adding  four  ounces  of  stale  bread 
crumbs,  a  bit  of  butter  about  as  big  as  a  walnut,  and  a  very  little  pep- 
per and  salt  (to  this  some  cooks  add  half  the  liver,  parboiling  it  first,) 
the  yolk  of  an  egg  or  two,  and,  incorporating  the  whole  together,  stuff 
the  goose ;  do  not  quite  fill  it,  but  leave  a  little  room  for  the  stuffing 
to  swell.  From  an  hour  and  a  half  to  an  hour  and  three-quarters  will 
roast  a  fine  full-grown  goose.  Send  up  gravy  and  apple  sauce  with  it. 
Geese  are  called  green  till  they  are  about  four  months  old. 

251.  Canvass  Back  Ducks,  or  Red  Neck  Ducks. — Let  your  duck 
be  young  and  fat,  if  possible;  having  picked  it  well,  draw  it  and  singe 
carefully,  without  washing  it,  so  as  to  preserve  the  blood,  and  conse- 
quently, all  its  flavour.  You  then  truss  it,  leaving  its  head  on  for  the 
purpose  of  distinguishing  it  from  common  game,  and  place  it  on  the 
spit  before  a  brisk  fire,  for  at  least  fifteen  minutes.  Then  serve  it 
hot,  in  its  own  gravy,  which  is  formed  by  the  blood,  &c.,  on  a  large 
chafing  dish.  The  best  birds  are  found  on  the  Potomac  river;  they 
have  the  head  purple,  and  the  breast  silver  colour,  and  it  is  consideroi 
superior  in  quality  and  flavour  to  any  other  species  of  wild  duck. 
The  season  is  only  during  the  cold  weather. 

252.  Duck. — Mind  your  duck  is  well  cleaned,  and  wiped  out  with 
a  clean  cloth ;  for  the  styTmg,  take  an  ounce  of  onion  and  half  an 
ounce  of  green  sage;  chjp  them  very  fine,  and  mix  them  with  two 
ounces  of  bread  crumbs,  a  bit  of  butter  about  as  big  as  a  walnut,  a 
very  little  black  pepper  and  salt,  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg  to  bind  it; 
mix  these  thoroughly  together,  and  put  into  the  duck.  From  half  to 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  will  be  enough  to  roast  it,  according  to  the 
size  ;  contrive  to  have  the  feet  delicately  crisp,  as  some  people  are 
very  fond  of  them; — to  do  this  nicely,  you  must  have  a  sharp  fire. 
Gravy  sauce,  and  sage  and  onion  sauce.  To  hash  or  stew  ducks,  the 
same  as  goose.  If  you  think  the  raw  onion  will  make  too  strong  an 
impression  upon  the  palate,  parboil  it.  To  insure  ducks  being  ten- 
der, in  moderate  weather  kill  them  a  few  days  before  you  dress  them. 

253.  Haunch  of  Venison. — To  preserve  the  fat,  make  a  paste  of 
flour  and  water,  as  much  as  will  cover  the  haunch;  wipe  it  with  a 
dry  cloth  in  every  part ;  rub  a  large  sheet  of  paper  all  over  with  but- 
ter, and  cover  the  venison  with  it ;  then  roll  out  the  paste  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick.  Lay  this  all  over  the  fat  side,  cover  it  with 
three  or  four  sheets  of  strong  white  paper,  and  tie  it  securely  on  with 
packthread ;  have  a  strong  close  fire,  and  baste  your  venison  as  soon 
as  you  lay  it  down  to  roast  (to  prevent  the  paper  and  string  from  burn- 
ing;) it  must  be  well  basted  all  the  time.  A  buck  haunch  which  ge- 
nerally weighs  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  pounds,  will  take  about  four 
hours  and  a  half  roasting  in  warm,  and  longer  in  cold,  weather.  A 
naunch  of  from  twelve  to  eighteen  pounds  will  be  done  in  about  three 
nours,  or  three  hours  and  a  half.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  before  it  ia 
done,  the  string  must  be  cut,  and  the  paste  carefully  taken  off;  now 


82  THECOMPLETECOOK. 

baste  it  with  butter,  dredge  it  ]ic,^htly  with  flour,  and  when  the  froth 
rises,  and  it  has  got  a  very  light-brown  colour,  it  is  done.  Garnish 
the  knuckle  bone  with  a  ruffle  of  cut  writing  paper,  and  send  it  up 
with  good  strong  (but  unseasoned)  gravy  in  one  boat,  and  currant  jelly 
sauce  in  the  other,  or  currant  jelly  in  a  side  plate  (not  melted.)  See 
for  Sauces,  187,  138,  139.  Buck  venison  is  in  greatest  perfection 
from  Midsummer  to  Michaelmas,  and  doe  from  November  to  January. 
Neck  and  Shoulder  of  venison  are  to  be  treated  the  same  way  as  the 
haunch,  but  they  will  not  take  so  much  time,  nor  do  they  need  the 
paste  covering. 

254.  A  Faicn  should  be  dressed  as  soon  after  it  is  killed  as  pos- 
sible; when  very  young,  it  is  dressed  the  same  as  a  hare;  but  they 
are  better  eating  when  the  size  of  the  house  lamb,  or  when  they  are 
large  enough  to  be  roasted  in  quarters.  The  hind-quarter  is  consid- 
ered the  best.  Fawns  require  a  very  quick  fire.  They  are  so  deli- 
cate that  they  must  be  constantly  basted,  or  be  covered  with  sheets 
of  fat  bacon ;  when  nearly  done,  remove  the  bacon,  baste  it  with 
butter,  and  froth  it.     Serve  with  venison  sauce. 

255.  A  Kid  is  very  good  eating  when  a  suckling,  and  when  the 
dam  is  in  fine  condition.     Roast,  and  serve  it  like  a  fawn  or  hare. 

256.  Hare  when  young  is  easy  of  digestion,  and  very  nourishing— 
when  old,  the  contrary,  unless  rendered  so  by  keeping  and  dressing. 
"When  you  receive  a  hare,  take  out  the  liver — if  it  be  sweet,  parboil 
it,  and  keep  it  for  stuffing.  Wipe  the  hare  quite  dry;  rub  the  inside 
with  pepper,  and  hang  it  in  a  cool  place  till  it  is  fit  to  be  dressed,  that 
is  to  say,  till  it  comes  to  the  point  of  putrefaction,  but  not  putrefied. 
Then  paunch  and  skin,  wash  and  lay  it  in  a  large  pan  of  cold  water 
four  or  five  hours,  changing  the  water  two  or  three  times;  lay  it  in 
a  clean  cloth;  dry  it  well,  and  truss.  To  make  the  stuffing,  see  272. 
Let  it  be  stiff";  put  it  in  the  belly,  and  sew  it  up  tightly.  The  skin 
must  be  cut  to  let  the  blood  out  of  tiie  neck.  Some  persons  baste  it 
with  skimmed  milk,  but  we  decidedly  prefer  dripping;  it  ought  to  be 
constantly  basted  till  it  is  nearly  done;  then  put  a  little  bit  of  butter 
into  your  basting  ladle;  flour  and  froth  nicely.  Serve  with  good 
gravy  and  currant  jelly.  Cold  roast  hare,  chopped  to  pieces,  and 
stewed  in  water  for  a  couple  of  hours,  will  make  excellent  soup. 

257.  Rabbit. — Put  it  down  to  a  sharp  clear  fire  ;  dredge  it  lightly 
and  carefully  with  flour;  take  care  to  have  it  frothy  and  of  a  fine 
light  brown;  boil  the  liver  with  parsley  while  the  rabbit  is  roasting; 
when  tender,  chon  them  together;  put  half  the  mixture  into  melted 
butter,  use  the  other  half  for  garnish,  divided  into  little  hillocks.  Cut 
off"  the  head,  divide  it,  and  lay  half  on  each  side  the  dish.  A  fine 
well-grown  and  well-hung  warren  rabbit,  dressed  as  a  hare,  will  eat 
very  much  like  it. 

258.  A  Pheasant  should  have  a  smart  fire,  but  not  a  fierce  one ; 
baste  it,  butter  and  froth  it,  and  prepare  sauce  for  it.  Some  persons, 
the  pheasant  being  a  dry  bird,  put  a  piece  of  beef  or  rump  steak  into 
the  inside  before  roastipg.  It  is  said  that  a  pheasant  should  be  sus- 
pended by  one  of  the  long  tail  feathers  till  it  falls.     It  is  then  ripe 


SEASONINGS 


83 


and  ready  for  the  spit,  and  not  before.  If  a  fowl  be  well  kept,  and 
dressed  as  a  pheasant,  and  with  a  pheasant,  few  persons  will  discover 
the  pheasant  from  the  fowl. 

259.  Guinea  Fowls,  Partridges,  Pea  Fowls,  Blackcock,  Grouse^ 
and  Moorgamcy  are  dressed  in  the  same  way  as  pheasants.  Par- 
tridges are  sent  up  with  rice  sauc",  or  bread  sauce,  and  good  gravy. 
Blackcock,  nioorgame,  and  grouse,  are  sent  up  with  currant  jelly  and 
fried  bread  crumbs. 

260.  Wild  Ducks,  Widgeon,  and  Teal,  are  dressed  before  a  clear 
fire,  and  on  a  hot  spit.  Wild  ducks  will  require  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes  to  do  them  in  the  fashionable  way,  but  to  do  them  well  will 
require  a  few  minutes  longer.  Widgeon  and  teal,  being  smaller 
birds,  of  course  will  require  less  time. 

261.  Woodcocks  and  Snipes  are  never  drawn;  they  should  be  tied 
on  a  small  bird  spit,  and  put  to  roast  at  a  clear  fire ;  a  slice  of  bread 
is  put  under  each  bird,  to  catch  the  trail,  that  is  the  excrements  of  the 
intestines;  they  are  considered  delightful  eating;  baste  with  butter, 
and  froth  with  flour;  lay  the  toa?t  on  a  hot  dish,  and  the  birds  on  the 
toast;  pour  some  good  gravy  into  the  dish,  and  send  some  up  in  a 
boat.  They  are  generally  roasted  from  twenty  to  thirty  niinutes — 
but  some  epicures  say,  that  a  woodcock  should  be  just  introduced  to 
tiie  cook,  for  her  to  show  it  the  fire,  and  then  send  it  up  to  table.  Gar- 
nish with  slices  of  lemon.  Snipes  are  dressed  in  the  same  way,  but 
require  less  time. 

262.  Pigeons,  when  stuffed,  require  some  green  parsley  to  be 
chopped  very  fine  with  the  liver  and  a  bit  of  butter,  seasoned  with  a 
little  pepper  and  salt;  or  they  may  be  stuffed  with  the  same  as  a  fillet 
of  veal.  Fill  the  belly  of  each  bird  with  either  of  these  compositions. 
They  will  roast  in  about  twenty  or  thirty  minutes.  Serve  with 
parsley  and  butter,  with  a  dish  under  them,  with  some  in  a  boat. 
Garnish  with  crisp  parsfey,  fried  bread  crumbs,  br^ead  sauce,  or  gravy. 

263.  Small  Birds. — The  most  delicate  of  these  are  larks,  which 
are  in  high  season  in  November  and  December.  When  cleaned  and 
prepared  for  roasting,  brush  tiiem  with  tiie  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  roll 
in  bread  crumbs;  spit  them  on  a  lark-spit,  and  tie  that  on  a  larger 
Bpit;  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  at  a  quick  fire  will  do  them ;  baste  them 
with  fresh  butter,  and  sprinkle  them  with  bread  crumbs  till  they  are 
quite  covered,  while  roasting.  Sauce,  grated  bread  fried  in  butter, 
which  set  to  drain  before  the  fire  that  it  may  harden ;  serve  the 
crumbs  under  the  larks  when  you  dish  them,  and  garnish  them  with 
slices  of  lemon.      Wheatears  are  dressed  in  the  same  way. 

264.  Reed  Birds. — Having  carefully  picked  your  birds,  v/hich 
should  be  very  fat,  draw  them  Vvith  the  greatest  care  possible  so  as 
not  to  rob  them  of  any  fat,  and  truss  them  on  a  skewer,  which  you 
fasten  to  the  spit,  and  cook  them  before  a  brisk  fire ;  a  very  few 
minutes  is  requisite.  In  serving  them,  place  them  on  buttered  toast, 
and  pour  a  small  portion  of  gravy  over  them.  Let  them  be  hot. 
This  is  generally  considered  the  best  manner  of  serving  reed  birds, 
although  many  persons  prefer  them  breaded  and  fried,  or  barbacued. 


84  T  II  E    C  O  M  P  L  E  T  E     C  O  O  K  . 

"When  they  are  very  fat  it  is  unnecepsary  to  draw  Ihcm.  The  season 
for  this  delicious  bird  is  from  the  middle  of  September  to  the  first  or 
eecond  week  in  October. 


SEASONINGS. 

The  art  of  making  seasoning's,  or  stuffings,  principally  consists  in 
Eo  proportioning  the  flavours  as  that  none  may  predominate,  or  be 
tasted  more  than  another.  In  stuffing,  care  must  be  taken  to  leave 
room  for  swelling ;  if  not,  it  is  apt  to  be  hard  and  heavy. 

265.  Seasoning  for  Roast  Pork,  Ducks,  or  Geese. — Two-thirds 
onion,  one-third  green  sage,  chopped  fine,  bread  crumbs  equal  in 
weight  to  the  sage  and  onions;  season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt, 
and  incorporate  it  well  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  or  two,  and  a  bit  of 
butter.  Some  omit  the  bread  crumbs,  and  some  again  do  not  like  the 
onions,  while  others  add  to  them  a  clove  of  garlic. 

266.  Seasoning  for  a  Sucking  Fig. — A  large  teacup  full  of 
grated  bread,  two  ounces  of  butter,  season  with  nutmeg,  salt,  and 
pepper;  scald  two  small  onions,  chop  fine,  and  about  thirty  leaves  of 
young  sage,  and  egg  beat  fine,  and  mix  altogether,  and  sew  it  in  the 
belly  of  the  pig. 

267.  Seasoning  for  a  Goose. — Scald  the  liver,  chop  fine,  crumb 
twice  its  weight  in  bread,  chop  fine  four  small  onions,  or  an  equal 
weight  of  chives,  half  the  weight  of  green  sage,  half  an  ounce  of 
butter,  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  a  table  spoonful  of  potato  starch ; 
season  highly  with  salt  and  pepper;  mix  well. 

268.  Chesniit  Seasoning  for  Goose. — Fry  or  boil  chesnuts  till  the 
outer  skin  comes  off"  very  easily,  and  the  inside  will  pound  or  grate  ; 
rexluce  them  to  powder,  scald  the  liver  of  the  goose,  and  an  onion  or 
two,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  season  with  pepper,  cayenne,  salt;  mix 
well  toofether. 


STUFFINGS    AND    FORCE    MEATS. 

269.  Stiiffing  for  Veal,  Roast  Turkey,  Fowl,  t^^c. — Mince  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  beef  marrow  (beef  suet  will  do,)  the  same 
weight  of  bread  crumbs,  two  drachms  of  parsley  leaves,  a  drachm 
and  a  half  of  sweet  marjoram  (or  lemon  thyme,)  and  the  same  of 
grated  lemon  peel,  an  onion,  chopped  very  fine,  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  pound  thoroughly  together,  with  the  yolk  and  white  of  two 
Gggs,  and  secure  it  in  the  veal  with  a  skewer,  or  sew  it  in  with  a 
needle  and  thread.  Make  some  of  it  into  balls  or  sausages;  flour 
and  fry  or  boil  them,  and  send  them  up  as  a  garnish,  or  in  a  side  dish, 
with  roast  poultry,  veal,  or  cutlets,  &c.  This  is  sufficient  quantity 
for  a  turkey  poult;  a  very  large  turkey  will  require  twice  as  much; 
an  ounce  of  dressed  ham  may  be  added  to  the  above,  or  use  equal 
parts  of  the  above  stuffing  and  pork  sausage  meat. 

270.  Goose  or  Duck  slvfing. — Chop  vt^ry  fine  about  one  ounce  of 
green  sago  leaves,  two  ounces  of  onion  also  chopped  fine  (both  un« 


STUFFINGS,     &C. 

boiled,)  a  bit  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  four  ounces 
bread  crumbs,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  the  yolk  and  white  of  an  egg: 
Bome  add  to  this  a  little  apple. 

271.  Force  meat  balls  for  turtle,  mock  turtle,  or  made  dishes  :— 
Pound  some  veal  in  a  marble  mortar,  rub  it  through  a  sieve  with  aa 
much  of  the  udder  as  you  have  of  veal,  and  about  the  third  of  the 
quantity  of  butter ;  put  some  bread  crumbs  in  a  stew-pan,  moisten 
with  milk,  add  a  little  chopped  eschalot,  and  a  little  parsley;  rub 
them  well  together  in  a  mortar  till  they  form  a  smooth  paste ;  put  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  when  cold,  pound  and  mix  all  together,  with  the 
yolk  of  three  eggs  boiled  hard;  season  it  with  curry  powder,  or 
cayenne  pepper  and  salt;  add  the  yolks  of  two  unboiled  eggs,  rub  it 
well  together,  and  make  small  balls;  a  few  minutes  before  your  soup 
is  ready,  put  them  in. 

272.  Sticffing  for  Hare. — Three  ounces  of  fine  bread  crumbs,  two 
ounces  of  beef  suet,  chopped  fine,  eschalot  half  a  drachm,  one  drachm 
of  parsley,  a  drachm  of  lemon  thymo,  marjoram,  winter  savoury,  a 
drachm  of  grated  lemon  peel,  and  the  same  of  pepper  and  salt;  mix 
these  with  the  white  and  yolk  of  an  egg ;  de  not  make  it  thin,  for  if 
it  is  not  stiff  enough,  it  will  be  good  for  nothing ;  put  it  in  the  hare 
and  sew  it  up.  If  the  liver  is  quite  sound,  parboil  it,  mince  it  very 
fine,  and  put  to  the  stuffing. 

273.  Veal  Force  meat — Of  undressed  veal  take  two  ounces,  scrape 
it  quite  fine,  and  free  from  skin  and  sinews,  the  same  quantity  of 
beef  or  veal  suet,  and  the  same  of  bread  crumbs;  chop  fine  one 
drachm  of  lemon  peel,  two  drachms  of  parsley,  the  same  quantity 
of  sweet  herbs,  and  half  a  drachm  of  mace  or  allspice  beaten  to  a 
fine  powder ;  pound  all  together  in  a  mortar,  break  into  it  the  yolk 
and  white  of  an  egg^  rub  it  all  well  together,  and  season  with  pepper 
and  salt.  This  may  be  made  more  savoury  by  adding  cold  pickled 
tongue,  eschalot,  anchovy,  cayenne,  or  curry  powder. 

274.  Stuffing  for  Pike^  Carp,  or  Haddock.  —  A  dozen  oysters 
bearded  and  chopped,  two  yolks  of  eggs,  a  small  onion,  or  two  cloves 
of  eschalot  and  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  chopped  fine,  season  with 
cayenne,  mace,  allspice,  pepper,  and  salt ;  add  their  weight  of  bread 
crumbs,,  or  biscuit  powder,  then  put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan,  and  simmer  them  till  they  have  sucked  up  the  butter ;  as  they 
begin  to  bind,  sprinkle  over  them  more  bread  crumbs  or  biscuit 
powder,  till  the  whole  forms  into  a  ball,  with  which  stuff  the  fish. 
Some  people  like  the  addition  of  ham  or  tongue  scraped,  and  suet  or 
marrow  instead  of  butter. 

Another  way.  Beef  suet,  or  marrow  and  fat  bacon,  and  fresh 
butter,  two  ounces  of  each  ;  pound  them  with  the  meat  of  a  lobster, 
ten  or  twelve  oysters,  one  or  two  anchovies;  season  with  thyme, 
parsley,  knotted  marjoram,  savoury,  chopped  fine  and  scalded ;  add 
salt,  cayenne,  and  nutmeg,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  eschalot ;  add 
the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  bread  crumbs.  This  pudding  will  be  suffi* 
ciently  done  in  the  belly  of  the  fish,  if  you  do  not  add  the  eschaipt  in 
substance. 
7* 


86  T  II  K    COMPLETE     COOK. 

275.  Stuffing  for  Heart  and  many  other  pur^wses. — Tako  half  a 
pound  of  grated  bread ;  chop  fine  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  beef  cfT 
lamb  suet,  or  beef  marrow;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg;  a 
handful  of  parsley  leaves,  thyme  about  a  quarter  as  much,  six  spriga 
of  marjoram  and  vervain,  winter  savoury  or  knotted  marjoram,  and 
the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a  lernon.  Mix  well  with  two  eggs  well 
beaten.  You  may  add  a  dozen  of  oysters,  chopped,  and  the  liquor, 
or  two  ounces  of  dressed  ham,  chopped.  This  stuffing  may  be  used 
for  a  turkey,  with  an  equal  quantity  of  sausage  meat  parboiled ;  rub 
them  well  together,  and  keep  out  half  a  pound,  to  which  add  an  egg, 
to  make  up  into  balls  and  fry,  and  lay  round  the  dish  as  a  garnish. 
Turkey  is  sometimes  stuffed  with  chesnnts  (see  267) ;  take  basil  and 
parsley  instead  of  onions,  and  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  dressed 
ham  grated,  and  a  little  nutmeg. 

276.  A  very  rich  stuffing  for  Veal,  Poultry,  and  Game. — Take 
two  pounds  of  beef  suet,  one  pound  of  bread  crumbs,  a  tea  spoonful 
of  thyme,  the  same  quantity  of  marjoram,  a  tea-cup  full  of  chopped 
parsley,  chopped  eschalot  a  table  spoonful,  half  a  lemon  grated,  half 
a  nutmeg,  half  an  ounce  each  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  five  eggs,  well 
mixed. 

277.  Veal  Cake. — Boil  six  eggs  hard,  cut  the  yolks  in  two,  butter 
a  mould  ;  lay  some  of  the  pieces  of  egg  at  the  bottom,  sprinkle  salt, 
pepper,  and  chopped  parsley;  then  lay  thin  slices  of  veal  and  ham; 
sprinkle  again  with  the  seasoning,  and  then  eggs,  and  so  on  till  the 
dish  is  filled.  Then  add  gravy,  till  it  covers  the  top  of  the  meat; 
spread  one  ounce  of  butter  over  the  top,  tie  it  over  with  paper,  and 
bake  one  hour ;  then  press  it  close  together  with  a  spoon,  and  let  it 
stand  till  cold.  Another  way  is  to  pound  the  meat  instead  of  slices, 
iwo-thirds  of  lean  veal  and  one-third  of  fat  ham.  When  the  cake  ia 
wanted,  set  the  mould  in  boiling  virater  for  a  minute  or  two,  and  the 
cake  will  turn  out. 

278.  Force  meal  for  Veal  or  Foivls. — Take  equal  parts  of  cold 
veal,  beef  suet,  ham  or  gammon,  a  few  parsley  leaves,  a  small  onion, 
the  rind  of  lemon  a  little;  chop  all  together  very  fine;  season  with 
pepper,  salt,  cayenne,  mace,  or  nutmeg;  pound  the  whole  in  a  mortar, 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  bread  crumbs,  and  add  two  eggs  to  bind  it. 
This  is  a  good  three  meat  for  patties. 

279.  Light  force  meat  balls. — Cold  veal  or  chicken  a  quarter  of  a 
pound,  chopped,  half  a  pound  of  suet,  chopped,  crumbs  of  bread  a  tea- 
cup full.  Season  with  sweet  herbs,  and  spice  and  eschalots,  and  three 
or  four  eggs  beat  separately  ;  mix  these  articles  with  all  the  yolks  and 
as  much  of  the  whites  as  is  necessary  to  bring  it  to  a  moist  paste,  roll 
them  in  small  balls,  and  fry  them  in  butter,  or  lard,  for«, garnish  to 
roast  turkey,  fov;},  &-c. 

280.  Egg  balls. — Boil  four  eggs  for  ten  minutes  and  put  them  into 
cold  water;  when  th(^  are  cold  beat  the  yolks  in  a  mortar  with  the 
yolk  of  a  raw  egg,  some  chopped  parsley,  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour,  a 
pinch  or  two  of  salt,  and  a  little  black  pepper,  or  cayenne;  rub  them 
well  together,  roll  them  into  small  balls,  and  boil  them  two  minutes. 


Baking    j£ EAT,   &c.  87 

281.  Brain  balls. — Take  a  calf's  brains,  or  two  or  three  lambs', 
scald  them  for  ten  minutes,  quite  free  from  every  bit  of  vein  and 
skin,  beat  up  vi'ith  seasoning  the  same  as  egg  balls,  adding  a  tea 
spoonful  of  chopped  sage ;  rub  a  tea-cup  full  of  bread  crumbs,  three 
tea  spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  a  raw  egg  with  them.  Make  them  up  into 
balls,  rub  each  ball  with  bread,  fry  them  with  butter  or  lard;  serve 
as  a  garnish  to  calf's  head,  or  as  a  separate  side  dish. 

282.  Curry  balls. — Take  bread  crumbs,  the  yolk  of  an  egg  boiled 
hard,  and  a  bit  of  fresh  butler;  beat  together  in  a  mortar,  and  season 
with  curry  powder ;  make  them  into  small  balls,  and  boil  or  fry 
them. 

BAKING  MEAT,   &c. 

283.  As  baking  is  the  only  means  by  which  the  poor  inhabitants 
of  towns  for  the  most  part  can  enjoy  a  joint  of  meat  at  home,*  we 
shall  say  a  word  or  two  upon  the  subject,  particularly  with  regard  to 
those  joints  which,  when  they  are  carefully  baked,  most  resemble 
roasted  ones.  Legs  and  loins  of  pork,  legs  of  mutton,  fillets  of  veal, 
&c.,  may  be  baked  with  advantage,  if  the  meat  be  good  and  tolerably 
fat.  Besides  the  joints  here  enumerated,  there  are  many  others  which 
may  be  baked,  providing  the  meat  is  not  poor  or  lean.  The  follow- 
ing are  observations  on  baking  meat  by  a  well-experienced  baker ; 
they  are  particularly  deserving  the  attention  of  a  careful  house- 
keeper. 

284.  "A  pig  when  sent  to  the  baker  prepared  for  baking  should 
have  its  ears  and  tail  covered  with  buttered  paper,  properly  fastened 
on,  and  a  bit  of  butter  tied  up  in  linen  to  baste  the  back  with,  other- 
wise it  will  be  apt  to  blister.  With  a  proper  share  of  attention  from 
the  baker,  this  way  is  thought  to  be  equal  to  a  roasted  one. 

285.  "A  goose  prepared  as  for  roasting,  taking  care  to  have  it  on 
a  stand,  and  when  half  done,  to  turn  the  other  side  upwards.  A  duck 
should  be  treated  in  the  same  way. 

286.  "After  a  buttock  of  beef  has  been  in  salt  about  a  week,  well 
wash  it,  and  put  it  in  a  brown  earthen  pan  with  a  pint  of  water,  cover 
the  pan  quite  over  and  tightly  with  two  or  three  thicknesses  of  cap 
or  foolscap  paper  (never  use  brown  paper  —  it  contains  tar,  Slc). 
Bake  for  four  or  five  hours  in  a  moderate  heated  oven.  A  ham  pro- 
'perly  soaked  may  be  baked  in  the  same  way. 

287.  "Bakers  are  in  the  habit  of  baking  small  cod  fish,  haddock, 
and  mackerel,  with  a  dust  of  flour  and  some  bits  of  butter  put  on 
them.  Eels,  when  large  and  stuffed.  Herrings  and  sprats  in  a 
brown  pan,  with  a  little  vinegar  and  a  little  spice,  and  tied  over  with 
paper.  A  hare,  prepared  the  same  as  for  roasting,  with  a  few  pieces 
of  butter  and  a  little  drop  of  milk  put  into  the  dish,  and  basted  several 
times,  will  be  found  nearly  equal  to  roasting;  or  cut  it  up,  season  it 
properly,  put  it  into  a  jar  or  pan,  and  cover  it  over,  and  bake  it  in  a 

*  We  hope,  however,  in  a  few  years,  to  see  the  American  oven  supersede  the  ca»« 
torn  of  dressing  meat  iii  the  public  bake-house. 


88  THE     COMPLETE      COOK. 

moderate  oven  for  about  three  hours.  In  the  same  manner  legs  and 
shins  of  beef,  ox  cheeks,  &c.,  prepared  with  a  seasoning  of  onions, 
turnips,  &c.,  may  be  baked:  they  will  take  about  four  hours;  let 
them  stand  till  cold  to  skim  off  the  fat ;  then  warm  up  altogether,  or 
part,  as  you  may  want  it. 

288.  '*  The  time  that  each  of  the  above  articles  should  take,  depends 
much  upon  the  state  of  the  oven ;  they  should  be  sent  to  the  baker  in 
time,  and  he  must  be  very  neglectful  if  they  are  not  ready  dl  the  time 
they  are  ordered." 

289.  We  may  be  here  allowed  to  remark,  that  the  process  of  dress- 
ing meat  in  an  oven  in  a  covered  pan  is  more  analogous  to  stewing 
than  it  is  to  baking.  It  is,  however,  an  excellent  mode  of  cooking. 
The  great  objection  to  baking  meat  in  an  open  pan,  and  among  many 
other  different  descriptions  of  dishes,  is  the  bad  flavour  which  is  apt 
to  be  imparted  to  it.  There  is,  too,  another  objection  to  baked  meat, 
which  arises  from  the  exclusion  of  the  external  air,  or  for  want  of  a 
draught.  The  exhalations  from  the  meat  in  baking,  &.C.,  not  being 
carried  off)  they  have  a  tendency  to  sodden  it. 

290.  Dr.  Kitchiner,  no  mean  authority,  deprecates  thp  machines 
which  the  economical  grate-makers  call  roasters,  being  in  fact,  as  he 
asserts,  "in  plain  English — ovens."  The  Doctor  intimates,  that  these 
things  are  all  very  well  for  saving  fuel,  but  affirms  that  the  rational 
epicure,  who  has  been  accustomed  to  enjoy  beef  well  roasted,  will 
Boon  discover  the  difference.  Notwithstanding  this  high  authority, 
we  have  no  hesitation  in  stating,  that  meat  cooked  in  the  roaster 
attached  to  Flavell's  cooking  apparatus,  is  as  good  as  meat  roasted 
before  the  fire.  But  we  ought  to  observe,  that  Mr.  Flavell's  roaster 
has  a  current  of  air  passing  through  it  when  so  employed,  but  when 
used  as  an  oven  the  current  of  air  is  prevented  by  the  introduction  of 
a  damper.  We  can  state  from  the  experience  of  some  years,  that  the 
apparatus  alluded  to  is  a  most  excellent  contrivance  for  cooking 
generally. 

291.  "  Nothing  can  be  more  preposterous,"  says  Mr.  Sylvester,  in 
his  '  Philosophy  of  Domestic  Economy,'  "  and  inappropriate,  than  the 
prevailing  construction  and  management  of  a  gentleman's  kitchen. 
Before  the  discovery  of  the  stew  hearths,  all  the  culinary  processes 
were  carried  on  with  one  immense  open  grate,  burning  as  much  fuel 
in  one  day  as  might  do  the  same  work  for  ten.  The  cook  and  the 
furniture  of  the  kitchen  get  a  proportion  of  this  heat,  the  articles  to 
be  dressed  another  portion,  but  by  far  the  greatest  quantity  goes  up 
the  chimney. 

292.  "The  introduction  of  the  stew  hearth  has  in  some  degree 
reduced  the  magnitude  of  these  grates ;  but  they  are  yet  disgraceful 
to  science  and  common  sense.  In  the  present  state  (1819)  of  culinary 
improvement,  a  kitchen  may  be  fitted  up  with  apparatus,  requiring 
much  less  labour  and  attention,  with  much  less  consumption  of  fuel ; 
rendering  the  food  more  wholesome  and  agreeable,  and  also  prevent- 
ing that  offensive  smell  which  has  made  it  so  often  necessary  to 
detach  the  kitchen  from  the  rest  of  the  house." 


PRYING 


89 


293.  The  stew  hearth  is  a  most  useful  addition  to  the  ordinary 
kitchen  grate,  but  small  families  of  limited  means  are  seldom  possessed 
of  one.  A  stew  hearth,  indeed,  or  a  substitute  for  one,  which  may  be 
easily  obtained,  is  indispensable  in  French,  and  indeed  in  good  Eng- 
lish cookery. 

FRYING. 

294.  Frying,  as  is  properly  observed  by  Dr.  Kitchiner,  is  often  a 
convenient  mode  of  cookery;  it  may  be  performed  by  a  fire  which 
will  not  do  for  roasting  or  boiling,  and  by  the  introduction  of  the  pan 
between  the  meat  and  the  fire,  things  get  more  equally  dressed. 

295.  Be  very  particular  that  your  frying  pan  is  perfectly  clean  be- 
fore using  it.  Never  use  any  oil,  butter,  lard,  or  drippings,  which 
are  not  perfectly  free  from  salt,  and  pf^-.fectly  sweet  and  fresh.  Aa 
frying  is,  in  fact,  boiling  in  oil  fat,  it  is  of  the  first  importance  that 
your  fat  should  be  clean,  or  it  will  spoil  the  look  as  well  as  the 
flavour,  and  salt  will  prevent  the  meat  from  browning. 

296.  Good  oil  is,  perhaps,  the  best  to  fry  in,  but  sweet  fresh  lard, 
or  clarified  mutton  or  beef  suet,  will  answer  every  purpose,  nearly, 
if  not  quite  as  well  as  the  best  oil  or  butter,  and,  what  is  of  greater 
importance,  at  a  much  less  expense.  Nice  clean  dripping  is  almost 
as  good  as  any  thing.  After  you  have  done  frying  preserve  your  fat, 
which,  if  not  burnt,  will  do  for  three  or  four  fryings;  but  fat  in  which 
fish  has  been  fried  will  do  for  nothing  else. 

297.  If  your  fat  is  not  of  a  proper  heat,  your  frying  cannot  be  well 
done  ;  this  is,  in  short,  the  great  secret  in  frying,  which  the  young 
cook  ought  and  must  acquire.  The  frying  pan  must  be  always  set 
over  a  sharp  and  clear  fire,  or  otherwise  the  fat  is  too  long  before  it 
becomes  ready.  When  the  fat  has  done  hissing,  or  bubbling,  that  is, 
when  it  is  still,  you  may  be  pretty  sure  that  it  is  hot  enough.  It  is  a 
good  way  to  try  the  heat  of  your  fat,  by  throwing  a  little  bit  of  bread 
into  the  pan ;  if  it  fries  crisp,  the  fat  is  of  the  right  heat — if  it  burns 
the  bread,  it  is  too  hot. 

298.  When  your  things  are  well  done,  take  care  and  drain  all  the 
fat  from  them  most  thoroughly,  particularly  those  that  have  been 
fried  in  bread  crumbs,  &c. ;  if  you  do  not,  your  cookery  will  be  marred. 
Fried  fish  ought  to  be  quite  dry.  This  depends  in  a  great  measure 
upon  the  fat  in  which  they  are  dressed  being  of  a  proper  heat.  If  the 
fish  are  well  done,  and  are  well  drained  of  the  fat,  they  will  become 
quite  dry  and  crisp  in  a  few  minutes  after  they  have  been  taken  out 
of  the  pan.  If  this,  however,  should  not  be  the  case,  and  the  fish  on 
the  contrary  should  be  damp  and  wet,  lay  them  on  a  soft  cloth  before 
the  fire,  turning  them  occasionally  till  they  are  dry.  They  will 
sometimes  take  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  drying. 

299.  In  preparing  bread  crumbs  in  a  considerable  quantity,  in  order 
to  save  unbroken  the  crust,  and  preserving  it  fit  tor  the  table,  cut 
your  loaf  into  three  equal  parts,  that  is,  cut  off"  the  bottom  and  top 
crusts,  and  use  the  middle  part  or  the  crumb  for  your  frying.     The 


00  TIIECOMPLETECOOK. 

bread  should  be  at  least  two  days  old.  A  |rood  and  cheap  substitute 
for  bread  is  oatmeal,  which  will  cost,  comparatively  speaking, 
nothing. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  refer  the  cook  to  our  general  remarks 
upon  the  above  operation.  Frying  is  preferred  by  many  persons  to 
broiling;  and  our  own  opinion  is,  that  steaks,  chops,  &c.,  may  be 
dressed  with  much  more  certainty  and  regularity  by  the  former,  than 
by  the  latter,  method.  But  plenty  ofoil,  butter,  or  sweet  grease,  must 
always  be  used,  or  the  frying  will  be  imperfect. 

300.  Steaks. — Cut  them  rather  thinner  than  for  broiling;  put  some 
butter,  or,  what  is  much  cheaper  and  quite  as  good,  some  clarified 
dripping  or  suet,  into  an  iron  frying-pan,  and  when  it  is  quite  hot  put 
in  the  steaks,  and  keep  turning  them  until  they  are  done  enough. 
The  sauce  for  steaks,  chops,  cutlets,  &c,,  is  made  as  follows: — Take 
the  chops,  steaks  or  cutlets,  out  of  the  frying  pan  ;  for  a  pound  of  meat, 
keep  a  table-spoonful  of  the  fat  in  the  pan,  or  put  in  an  ounce  of  but- 
ter ;  put  to  it  as  much  flour  as  will  make  it  a  paste;  rub  it  well  toge- 
ther over  the  fire  till  they  are  a  little  brown;  then  add  as  much  boil- 
ing water  as  will  reduce  it  to  the  thickness  of  good  cream,  and  a  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  mushroom  or  walnut  catsup,  or  pickle,  or  browning; 
let  it  boil  together  a  few  minutes,  and  pour  it  through  a  sieve  to  the 
steaks,  &c.  To  the  above  is  sometimes  added  a  sliced  onion,  or  a 
minced  eschalot,  with  a  table-spoonful  of  port  wine,  or  a  little  escha- 
lot wine.  Garnish  with  scraped  horse-radish,  or  pickled  walnut,  gher- 
kins, &c.  •  Some  beef-eaters  like  chopped  eschalots  in  one  saucer,  and 
horse-radish  grated  in  vinegar  in  another.  Broiled  mushrooms  are  fa- 
vourite relishes  to  beef-steaks. 

301.  Beef-steaks  and  Onions. — The  steaks  are  fried  as  directed 
above;  the  common  method  is  to  fry  the  onions  cut  small,  but  the  best 
plan  perhaps  is  to  use  onions  prepared  as  directed  in  115. 

302.  Sausages. — Sausages  are  not  good  unless  they  are  quite 
fresh.  Put  a  bit  of  butter  or  dripping  into  a  frying-pan,  before  it  gets 
hot  put  in  the  sausages,  shake  the  pan,  and  keep  turning  them  (be 
careful  not  to  break  or  prick  them  in  so  doing);  fry  them  over  a  very 
slow  fire  till  they  are  nicely  browned  on  all  sides;  when  they  are 
done,  lay  them  on  a  hair  sieve,  place  them  before  the  fire  for  a  couple 
of  minutes  to  drain  the  fat  from  them.  The  secret  of  frying  satisages 
is,  to  let  them  get  hot  very  gradually — then  they  will  not  burst,  if 
they  are  not  stale.  You  may  froth  them  by  rubbing  them  with  cold 
fresh  butter,  and  lightly  dredge  them  with  flour,  and  put  them  in  a 
cheese-toaster  for  a  minute.  The  common  practice  to  prevent  their 
bursting  is  to  prick  them  with  a  fork ;  but  this  lets  out  the  gravy. 

303.  Veal  Cutlets  should  be  about  half  an  inch  thick  ;  trim  and  flat- 
ten; fry  in  plenty  of  fresh  butter,  or  good  dripping;  when  the  fire  is 
very  fierce,  you  must  turn  them  often — but  when  not  so,  do  them 
brown  on  one  side  before  you  turn  them.  Make  gravy  of  the  trim- 
mings, &c. ;  you  may  add  some  browning,  mushroom  or  walnut  cat- 
sup, or  lemon,  pickle,  &c.  Or  you  may  dress  them  as  follows:  Cut 
the  veal  into  pieces  about  as  big  as  a  crown  piece;  beat  them  with  a 


FRYING.  91 

cleaver,  dip  in  egg-,  beat  up  with  a  littler  salt,  and  then  in  fine  bread 
crumbs ;  fry  them  a  light  brown  in  boiling  lard  ;  serve  under  them 
gome  good  gravy  or  mushroom  sauce,  which  may  be  made  in  five  mi- 
nutes. Garnish  with  slices  of  ham,  or  rashers  of  bacon,  or  pork  sau- 
Fages.  Many  persons  prefer  frying  veal  cutlets  with  ham  or  bacon 
rashers,  which  will  afford  sufficient  fat  to  fry  them,  but  will  be  done 
much  sooner;  remove  the  rashers,  and  keep  them  warm.  When  the 
veal  is  done,  take  it  out,  pour  off  any  fat  that  may  remain,  and  put  into 
the  pan  a  large  tea-cup  full  or  more  of  gravy  or  broth,  and  a  piece  of 
butter  rolled  in  flour.  When  it  boils,  add  herbs  and  crumbs  of  bread, 
pour  over  the  veal,  and  lay  the  rashers  round  the  edge  of  the  dish. 
Garnish,  sliced  lemon. 

1304.  Sweetbreads  should  always  be  got  fresh  and  parboiled  imme- 
diately. When  cold  cut  them  in  pieces  about  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  thick,  dip  them  in  the  yolk  of  an  eg^^^  then  in  fine  bread  crumbs 
(some  add  spice,  lemon  peel,  and  sweet  herbs;)  put  some  clean  drip- 
ping into  a  frying-pan  ;  when  it  boils  put  in  the  sweetbreads,  and  fry 
them  a  fiue  brown.  For  garnish,  crisp  parsley  ;  and  for  sauce,  mush- 
room catsup  and  melted  butter,  or  anchovy  sauce,  or  bacon,  or  ham. 
This  is  called  full  dressing.  They  are  dressed  plain  as  follows  :  Par- 
boil and  slice  them  as  before,  dry  them  on  a  clean  cloth,  flour  them, 
and  fry  them  a  delicate  broXvn ;  take  care  to  drain  the  fat  well  from 
tliem,  and  garnish  them  with  slices  of  lemon  and  sprigs  of  chervil, 
pars' ey,  or  crisp  parsley.  For  sauce,  mushroom  catsup,  or. force  meat 
balls  made  as  278. 

305.  Lamb  or  Mutton  Chops  are  dressed  in  the  same  way  as  veal 
Ciitlots,  and  garnished  with  crisp  parsley,  and  slices  of  lemon.  If  they 
are  bread-crumbed,  and  covered  with  buttered  writing  paper,  and  then 
broiled,  they  are  called  '■' Maintenon  cutlets.'''' 

306.  Pork  Chops. — Take  care  that  they  are  trimmed  very  neatly  ; 
they  should  be  about  half  an  inch  thick;  put  a  frying-pan  on  the  fire, 
with  a  bit  of  butter;  as  soon  as  it  is  hot,  put  in  your  chops,  turning 
them  often  till  brown  all  over,  and  done  ;  take  one  upon  a  plate  and 
try  it ;  if  done,  season  it  with  a  little  finely  minced  onion,  powdered 
sage,  and  pi->pper  and  salt.     Sauce,  sage  and  onions,  or  Robert  sauce. 

307.  Fried  E^gs. — Well-cleansed  dripping,  or  lard,  or  fresh  but- 
ter, is  the  best  fat  for  frying  eggs.  Be  sure  the  frying-pan  is  quite 
clean;  when  the  fiit  is  hot,  break  two  or  three  esfgs  into  it;  do  not 
turn  them,  but,  while  they  are  frying,  keep  pouring  some  of  the  fat 
over  them  with  a  spoon  ;  when  the  yolk  just  begins  to  look  white, 
which  it  will  in  about  a  couple  of  minutes,  they  are  done  enouo"h  ;  the 
white  must  not  lose  its  traui^parency,  but  the  yolk  be  seen  blushing 
through  it.  If  they  are  done  nicely,  they  will  look  as  white  and  de-- 
licate  as  if  they  had  been  poached;  take  them  up  with  a  tin  slice, 
drain  the  fat  from  them,  trim  neatly,  and  send  them  up  with  toasted 
bacon  round  them.  For  Frying  Fish,  see  section  Fish,  p.  66,  par. 
193,  (^c. 


\ 

92  THECOMPLETECOOK. 

BROILING. 

308.  Let  your  grridiron  be  quite  clean,  particularly  between  tlie 
bars,  and  keep  it  brin-ht  on  the  top.  .  Before  usinsf  it,  you  should  be 
careful  to  make  the  bars  thoroughly  hot,  or  otherwise  that  part  of  the 
moat  which  is  covered  by  the  bars  will  not  be  equally  done  with  the 
other  parts  of  the  steak  or  chop. 

309.  Chops,  steaks,  or  slices  for  broiling-,  should  be  from  half  to 
three  quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  if  too  thick,  they  will  be  done 
outside  before  the  inside — and  if  too  thin,  they  will  be  dry  and 
gravy  less. 

810.  In  broilingf,  a  brisk  and  clear  fire  is  indispensable,  and  to 
obtain  this  you  should  prepare  your  fire  in  time,  so  that  it  may  burn 
clear.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  lay  over  a  pretty  strong  fire  a  layer  of 
cinders,  or  coke;  some  use  charcoal,  but  cinders  or  coke  are  equally 
good.  If  your  fire  is  not  bright  you  cannot  give  the  nice  brown  ap- 
pearance to  the  meat,  which  is  not  only  pleasing  to  the  eye,  but  is 
relishing  to  the  taste. 

311.  The  bars  of  the  best  gridirons  are  made  concave,  terminating 
in  a  trough  to  catch  the  gravy,  and  keep  the  fat  from  falling  into  the 
fire  and  making  a  smoke,  wijich  will  spoil  both  the  appearance  and 
taste  of  the  broil.  Before  using  the  gridiron  the  bars  should  be 
rubbed  with  clean  mutton  suet.  The  cook  should  watch  the  moment 
when  the  broil  is  done.  Send  it  to  the  table  immediately  on  a  hot 
dish,  from  whence  it  sliould  be  transferred  to  the  mouth  all  hot! — 
smoking  hot! ! !  The  upright  gridiron,  whicli  is  made  of  strong  wire 
and  may  be  now  boiisiht  in  the  streets  for  a  few  pence,  is,  as  Dr. 
Kitchiner  avers,  the  best,  as  it  can  be  used  at  any  fire,  without  fi^ar 
of  smoke,  and  ilie  trough  under  it  preserves  all  the  gravy.  The 
Dutch  oven,  or  bonnet,  may  be  substituted  for  the  gridiron,  when  the 
fire  is  not  clear. 

312.  Steaks  and  Chops. — Meat  to  be  broiled  should  be  hung  till  it 
is  tender;  the  inside  of  a  sirloin  of  beefj  cut  in!o  steaks,  is  greatly 
preferred  by  most  people.  But  steaks  are  generally  cut  frotn  the 
rump  (ihe  middle  is  tlie  Lest),  about  six  inches  long,  four  inches  wide, 
a»id  half  an  inch  thick.  Do  not  beat  liiem,  it  makes  them  dry  arid 
tasteless..  Steaks  should  be  done  quickly;  for  this  purpose,  lake  care 
to  have  a  very  clear  brisk  fire,  throw  a  little  salt  on  it,  make  the 
gridiron  hot,  and  set  it  slanting  to  prevent  the  fat  from  dropping  into 
the  fire,  and  making  a  smoke.  It  requires  more  practice  and  care 
than  is  generally  supposed  to  do  steaks  to  a  nicety;  and  for  want  of 
these  little  attentions,  this  very  common  dish,  which  every  body  \a 
supposed  capable  of  dressing,  seldom  comes  to  table  in  perfection. 
Some  like  it  under,  some  thoroughly,  done.  It  is  usual  to  put  a 
table-spoonful  of  catsup,  or  a  little  minced  eschalot,  into  a  disji  before 
the  fire,  while  you  are  broiling;  turn  the  steak  with  a  pair  of  steak- 
tongs;  it  will  be  done  in  about  ten  or  fifteen  minutes;  rub  a  bit  (f 
butter  over  it,  and  send  it  up  garnished  with  pickles  and  finely  scrapei' 
horse-radish.     Serve  with  the  usual  sauces. 


BRAISING,     GLAZING,     <fcc.  93 

313.  Kidneys. — Cut  them  through  the  lonof  way,  score  them, 
sprinkle  a  little  pepper  and  salt  on  them,  and  run  a  wire  skevvor 
through  them  to  keep  them  from  curlinjr  on  the  oridiron,  so  that  they 
may  be  evenly  broiled.  Broil  them  over  a  very  clear  fire,  turning 
them  often  till  tliey  are  done;  they  will  take  about  ten  or  twelve 
minutes,  if  the  fire  is  brisk:  or,  fry  them  in  butter,  and  make  gravy 
from  them  in  the  pan  (after  you  have  taken  out  the  kidneys),  by  put- 
ting in  a  tea  spoonful  of  flour;  na  soon  as  it  looks  brown,  put  in  as 
much  water  as  will  make  gravy;  chey  will  take  five  minutes  more 
to  fry  than  to  broil.  Serve  with  the  usual  sauce.  Some  cooks  chop 
a  f^)W  parsley  leaves  very  fine,  and  mix  them  with  a  bit  of  fresh 
butter  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  put  a  little  of  this  mixture  on 
each  kidney. 

314.  A  Fowl  or  Rnbhit. — Pick  and  truss  it  the  sapie  as  for  boil- 
ing, cut  it  open  down  the  back,  wipe  the  inside  clec^  with  a  cloth, 
Bea:^on  it  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  have  a  clear  fire  and  set  the 
gridiron  at  a  good  distance  over  it,  lay  the  chickon  on  with  the  inside 
towards  the  fire  (you  may  es!:^  it  and  strevv  some  grated  bread  over 
it),  and  broil  it  till  it  is  a  fine  brown ;  take  care  the  fleshy  side  is  not 
burnt.  Lay  it  on  a  hot  dish,  pickled  mushrooms  or  mushroom  sauce 
thrown  over  it,  or  parsley  and  butter,  or  melted  butter  flavoured  with 
mushroom  catsup.  Garnish  with  slices  of  lemon,  and  the  liver  and 
gizzard,  slit  and  notched,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  broiled 
nicely  brown. 

315.  Pigeons. — Clean  them  well,  and  pepper  and  salt  them ;  broil 
them  over  a  clear  slow  fire ;  turn  them  often,  and  put  a  little  butter 
on  thern;  when  they  are  done,  pour  over  them  either  stewed  or 
pickled  mushrooms,  or  catsup  and  melted  butter.  Garnish  with  fried 
bread  crumbs,  or  sippets.  Or,  when  the  pigeons  are  trussed  for  broil- 
ing, flat  them  with  a  cleaver,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  skin  of  the 
backs  or  breast;  season  them  with  popper  and  salt,  a  little  bit  of  but- 
ter, and  a  tea  spoonful  of  water,  and  tie  them  close  at  both  ends;  so, 
when  they  are  brought  to  table,  they  bring  ihcir  sauce  with  them 
Ego-  and  dredge  thnm  well  with  grated  bread  (mixed  with  spice  and 
sweet  nerbs),  lay  them  on  the  gridiron,  and  turn  them  frequently;  if 
your  nre  is  not  very  clear,  lay  them  on  a  sheet  of  paper  well  but 

red,  to  keep  thern  from  getting  smoked.  They  are  much  better 
broiled  whole. 


BRAISING,    GLAZING,  •BL\NCFIING,    LARDING,    AND 
BONING. 

316.  A  braiser,  or  braising  pan,  is  a  sort  of  oblong  camp  kettle, 
with  a  bordered  lid,  on  which,  and  secured  by  the  border,  is  put  small 
burning  coal,  charcoal,  or  wood  ashes.  The  lid  should  fit  the  pan  as 
close  as  possible. 

•317.  Braising.  To  braise  your  meat,  put  the  meat  into  the  braiser 
(a  good  stew-pan  will  answer  the  purpose,  but  not  so  well)  ;  then 
cover  the  meat  with  thick  slices  of  lat  bacon  ;  lay  round  it  six  or  eight 


94  THE    COMPLETE     COOK. 

onions,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  some  celery,  and  if  it  be  to  brown, 
some  thick  slices  of  carrots;  meat  trimmino-?,  or  fresh  meat  bones,  ai 
pint  and  a  half  of  water,  or  the  same  quantity  of  stock,  which  wills 
make  it  richer  than  water  will;  over  the  meat  lay  a  sheet  of  white 
paper,  season  and  put  the  pan,  with  the  lid  well  fastened  down  and 
tight,  over  a  moderately  hot  stove,  rather  slow.  It  will  require  two 
or  three  hours,  according  to  its  size  or  quality.  The  meat  and  gravy; 
are  then  put  into  a  colander  to  drain,  but  be  sure  to  keep  it  quite  hot,, 
ekim  the  gravy  very  carefully,  and  boil  it  as  quick  as  you  can  till  iti 
thickens ;  then  glaze  the  meat — and  if  it  has  been  larded,  put  it  into 
the  oven  for  a  few  minutes. 

318.  Glazing  consists  in  covering  meat  with  a  preparation  called 
glaze,  which  is  strong  gravy  boiled  as  quick  as  possible  till  it  thickens, 
as  directed  in  Raising.  The  glaze  is  put  on  with  a  brush  kept  for 
the  purpose.  Hams,  tongues,  and  stewed  beef,  may  be  thus  glazed, 
if  thought  proper. 

319.  Blanching  is  performed  by  putting  the  article  in  cold  Vv^ater 
over  the  fire,  and  when  it  boils  up,  take  it  out  and  plunge  it  into  cold 
water,  and  let  it  remain  till  quite  cold.  This  will  make  it  white  and 
plump.  Tongues,  palates,  &c.,  are  said  to  be  blanched,  when  after 
long  boiling  the  skin  can  be  easily  peeled  off. 

320.  Larding  and  Forcing.  Possess  yourself  of  larding  pin?  of 
different  sizes;  cut  slices  of  bacon  into  bits  of  proper  lensfth,  quite 
smooth  ;  pierce  the  skin  and  a  very  little  of  the  meat  withthe  larding 
pin,  leaving  the  bacon  in  ;  the  two  ends  should  be  of  equal  length 
outwards.  Lard  in  rows  the  size  you  think  proper.  Forcing  is 
nothing  more  than  stuffinu  fowls,  &.o.,  with  force  meat,  which  is 
generally  put  in  between  the  skin  and  the  flesh. 

321.  Boning.  To  bone  any  bird,  the  cook  should  begin  first  to 
take  out  the  breast-bone ;  she  will  then  have  sufficient  spnce  to 
remove  the  back  with  a  sharp  small  knife,  and  then  she  must  take 
out  the  leg  bones.  The  skin  must  be  preserved  whole,  and  the  meat 
of  the  leg  be  pushed  inwards. 


COLOURINGS,  THICKENINGS,  FLAVOURINGS,  SEASON- 
INGS,  STOCKS,  GRAVIES,  SAUCES,  STUFFING,  FORCE- 
MEAT, AND  CLARIFYING. 

Having  laid  down,  as  we  trust,  clearly  and  fully,  under  the  pre- 
ceding heads,  all  that  is  necessary  to  be  known,  generally  speaking, 
with  regard  to  ordinary  dishes,  we  shall  now  proceed  to  treat  of  those 
preparations  which  are  employed  in  the  compounding  of  made  dishes. 
together  with  those  articles  which  the  prudent,  care-taking  cook  wil. 
always  keep  by  her  as  stores,  ready  to  be  used  when  wanted.  Bv 
•  made  dishes'  we  mean  not  only  those  commonly  so  called,  but  also 
those  in  the  dressing  of  which  other  articles  are  sometimes,  or  al- 
ways, used  by  way  of  stuffing,  seasoning,  &.c. — such,  for  instance,  as» 
geese,  ducks,  and  roast  pork.     This  done,  we  shall  then  give  direo 


COLOURING,     OR     BROWNING.  95 

tions  for  the  choice  of  meat,  fish,  and  poultry,  recipes  for  cooking 
them,  and  the  best  mode  of  carving-  them,  under  separate  heads. 
Recipes  for  cooking  all  other  dishes,  will  also,  of  course,  bo  given. 


COLOURING,    OR  BROWNING. 

322.  The  greater  part  of  the  preparations  for  colouring  are  very 
unwholesome,  or,  in  other  words,  very  indigestible.  They  are  em- 
ployed to  give  the  appearance  of  richness,  but  they  are  worse  than 
useless,  bemg  used  for  the  silly  purpose  of  pleasing  the  eye  only, 
generally  at  the  expense  of  the  stomach  and  taste.  Most  of  the  pre- 
parations for  colouring  are  a  medley  of  burnt  butler,  spices,  catsup, 
wine,  flour,  and  other  things  not  necessary  to  mention.  A  French 
writer  says,  the  generality  of  cooks  calcine  bones  till  they  are  as 
black  as  a  coal,  and  throw  them  hissing  hot  into  the  stew-pan,  to  give 
a  brown  colour  to  their  broths  and  sou.ps.  These  ingredients,  under 
the  appearance  of  a  nourishing  gravy,  envelop  our  food  with  stimulat- 
ing acid  and  corrosive  poison.  Such  things  as  essence  of  anchovy  are 
frequently  adulterated  with  colouring  matters  containing  red  lead! 
The  following  recipes  for  colouring  are  pretty  harmless,  and,  except 
for  the  purpose  of  pleasing  the  eye,  as  useless  as  they  are  innocent. 

Some  persons,  instead  of  colouring  or  browning  their  soups  after 
they  are  made,  brown  the  meat  of  which  they  are  intended  to  be 
made,  by  putting  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  little  butter,  salt,  and  pep- 
per, bu-t  without  vi^ater ;  then  covering  it  close,  placing  it  over  a  clear 
fire,  all  the  time  shaking  it  to  keep  it  from  sticking  to  the  pan,  till 
the  meat  becomes  of  a  light  brown,  when  the  liquor  of  which  the  soup 
or  gravy  is  to  be  made  is  added. 

The  best  colouring  is,  perhaps,  the  following:  Haifa  pound  of 
powdered  lump  sugar  and  a  table-spoonful  of  water,  put  into  a  clean 
saucepan,  or  frying-pan,  and  set  over  a  slow  fire  and  stirred  with  a 
wooden  spoon  till  it  is  of  a  fine  brown  colour,  and  begins  to  smoke  ; 
then  add  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  dilute  by  degrees  with  water,  till  it  is 
of  the  thickness  of  soy  ;  boil,  take  off  the  scum,  and  put  it  into  well- 
corked  bottles ;  or  you  may,  provided  you  do  not  wish  to  keep  the 
above  by  you,  colour  your  gravies  or  soups  by  pounding  a  tea-spoonful 
of  lump  suorar,  and  putting  it  into  an  iron  spoon,  which  hold  over  a 
quick  fire  till  the  mixture  becomes  of  a  dark-brown  colour;  mix  with 
the  soup  or  gravy  while  it  is  hot.  Some  persons  use  butter  in  the 
first  mixture  instead  of  water. 

Toasted  bread,  quite  hard  and  of  a  deep  brown,  not  burnt,  may  be 
put  into  the  boiling  gravy,  without  stirring,  ard  then  carefully  strain 
off  the  gravy  without  any  crumbs  of  bread  in  it.  You  may  also 
colour  with  flour  browned  on  a  flat-iron  over  ttie  fire,  /arious  flavour 
ing  articles  serve  also  the  purpose  of  colouring. 


y6  THE     COMPLETE     COOK 


THICKENINGS, 


323.  Flour,  or  somo  other  farinaceous  article,  is,  or  ought  to  be,  the 
basis  of  all  thickening-s;  starch  of  potatoes,  or  indeed  any  oLher  pure 
starch,  is  a  good  substitute  for  flour.  We  do  not  recommend  pre- 
parations of  Carraghan  moss,  ivory  dust,  or  eg-f^s ;  they  are  trouble- 
some, and  not  at  all  necessary.  A  table-spoonful  of  potatoe  or  any 
other  starch,  such  as  arrow-root,  mixed  in  two  table-spoonsful  of  cold 
water,  and  stirred  into  soup,  sauce,  or  gravy,  &c.  and  aftervv'ards  sim- 
mered, just  before  serving,  will  thicken  a  pint.  Flour  will  also 
answer  the  same  purpose.  In  large  establishments,  the  following' 
thickening  is  generally  kept  r^ady  prepared  ;  the  French  call  it  rouoc  ; 
it  is  thus  made:  Put  some  fresh  butter,  if  clarified  the  better,  (or 
Bome  use  the  skimmings  of  the  pots,  clean  and  not  impregnated  with 
Vegetables,)  into  a  stew-pan  over  a  clear  slow  fire;  when  it  is  melted, 
add  fine  flour  sufficient  to  make  it  the  thickness  of  paste;  stir  welli 
together  when  over  the  fire,  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  till  it  is  quite  i 
smooth  and  of  a  fine  "yellow-boy"  colour.  Do  all  this  gradually  audi 
patiently,  or  you  will  spoil  your  thickening  by  getting  it  burnt,  of 
giving  to  it  a  burnt  flavour,  which  will  spoil  your  gravy,  &c.  Pour- 
it  into  an  earthen  pan  for  use,  it  will  keep  for  a  fortnight;  and  if,, 
when  cold,  it  is  thick  enough  to  be  cut  with  a  knife,  a  large  spoonful! 
will  be  enough  to  thicken  a  quart  of  gravy,  &c.  Most  made  dishes,, 
such  as  sauces,  soups,  and  ragouts,  are  thus  thickened.  The  broth i 
or  soup,  &c.,  to  which  the  thickening  is  put,  must  be  adde^  by 
degrees,  so  as  to  incorporate  them  well  together.  To  cleanse  or: 
finish  a  sauce,  put  into  a  pint  two  table-spoonsful  of  broth,  or  warm: 
water^  and  put  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  to  raise  any  fat,  &c.,  which  i 
must  be  carefully  removed  as  it  comes  to  the  top. 

We  would  strongly  recommend  mistresses  of  families,  particularly 
those  residing  in  the  country,  where  potatoes  are  cheap,  to  keep  a 
good  stock  of  potatoe  starch  always  by  them.  If  kept  dry  and  from 
•.he  air,  it  will  keep  almost  for  any  length  of  time.  Damaged  po- 
tatoes will  yield  starch  or  mucilage,  if  raw.  It  may  be  made  from 
the  old  potatoes,  when  by  germination  in  the  spring  they  have  be- 
come unfit  for  the  table,  or  from  the  refuse  of  a  newly  gathered  crop 
in  the  autumn.  The  starch  will  be  found  extremely  useful,  not  only 
in  a  thickening,  but  also  for  mixing  with  wheat  flour  in  making; 
bread,  &c.  Starch  may  be  made,  and  is  made,  from  various  vege-- 
table  substances,  and  used  as  a  substitute  for  corn  flour.  The  follow- 
ing is  the  mode  of  making  potatoe  starch ;  arrow-root  starch  and  alii 
other  starches  are  made  by  a  similar  process: 

The  potatoes  must  be  carefully  washed  and  peeled,  and  every 
speck  removed  ;  provide  yourself  with  a  number  of  deep  dishes,  ac-- 
cording  to  the  quantity  of  starch  you  wish  to  make;  for  every  pound i 
of  potatoes  to  be  prepared  in  each  dish,  put  a  quart  of  clear  water;; 
grate  them  into  the  water  on  a  bread  grater;  stir  it  up  well,  and  them 
pour  it  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  leave  it  ten  minutes  to  settle,  orr 
till  the  water  is  quite  clear;  then  pour  off"  the  water,  and  put  to  it  a. 


FLAVOURINGS.  07 

quart  of  fresh  water:  stir  it  up,  then  let  it  settle,  and  repeat  this  till 
the  water  is  quite  clear.  You  will  at  last  find  a  fine  white  powder 
at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel ;  lay  this  on  a  piece  of  paper  in  a  hair 
sieve  to  dry,  either  in  the  sun  or  before  the  fire ;  when  thoroughly 
dry,  it  is  ready  for  use.  It  is  perfectly  tasteless,  and  may  he  used  to 
thicken  melted  butter,  instead  of  flour.  A  great  deal  of  the  arrow- 
root sold  in  the  shops  is  neither  more  nor  less  than  potatoe  starch. 
Though  we  strongly  recommend  it  as  effectual  and  economical  for 
the  above  purpose,  for  an  invalid  it  is  very  inferior  in  strength  and 
nutricious  qualities  to  the  Indian  arrrow-rool  starch. 

324.  White  Thickening. — Put  half  a  pound  of  good  butter  into  a 
sauce-pan,  and  melt  over  a  slow  fire,  then  drain  tiie  butter  and  take 
out  the  buttermilk,  then  add  to  the  butter  enough  flour  to  make  a 
thin  paste,  and  place  it  on  the  fire  for  fifteen  minutes,  taking  care  not 
to  let  it  colour.     Pour  it  into  a  pan  and  let  it  stand  until  wanted. 


FLAVOURINGS. 

325.  Judiciously  prepared  flavourings  are  of  the  first  importance 
in  the  higher  branches  of  cookery,  and  indeed,  they  are  indispensably 
necessary  in  all  descriptions  of  made  dishes.  The  principal  agentd 
employed  for  flavouring  are  mushrooms,  onions,  anchovy,  lemon  juice 
and  peel,  vinegar,  wine,  especially  claret,  sweet  herbs,  and  savoury 
spices,  A  good  housewife  will  always  take  care  to  have  a  stock  of 
tiie  principal  flavourings  by  her  ready  for  use,  as  occasion  may  re- 
quire. They  are  easily  prepared  for  keeping,  and  the  making  of 
essences  and  flavoured  vinegars,  &c.,  from  the  herbs,  is  a  very  agree- 
able efnployment,  and  one  highly  becoming  a  good  wife  and  mistress 
of  a  family.  We  by  no  means  wish  to  undervalue  elegant  accom- 
plishments in  ladies,  but  accomplishments  after  all  are  but  ornaments, 
whereas  good  housewifery  is  an  essential  ;  so  thought  our  ancestors 
two  hundred  years  ago,  and  so  continue  to  think  all  those  who  set  a 
proper  value  on  the  comforts  of  domestic  life.  Markham,  in  his 
English  Housewife,  1637,  says,  "  to  speak  then  of  the  knowledge 
wlTich  belongs  to  our  British  housewife,  I  hold  the  most  principal  to 
be  a  perfect  skill  in  cookery.  She  that  is  utterly  ignorant  therein, 
may  not,  by  the  lawes  of  strict  justice,  challenge  the  freedom  of  mar- 
riage, because,  indeed,  she  can  performe  but  half  her  vow  ;  she  may 
love  and  obey,  but  she  cannot  cherish  and  keepe  her  husband." 
Having  said  enough,  we  trust,  to  induce  young  ladies,  particularly  in 
the  above  quotation,  to  take  our  advice  into  their  consideration,  we 
shall  proceed  to  make  a  few  observations  on  taste,  as  intimately  con- 
nected with  this  part  of  our  subject. 

A  correct  taste  is  a  qualification  which  every  cook  ought  to  possess, 
but  few  persons  naturally  do  possess  it,  and  therefore,  the  palate  re- 
quires to  be  cultivated  as  much  in  the  culinary  art,  as  the  eye  in  the 
art  of  drawing.  But  tastes  differ  in  different  persons,  and  therefore, 
the  cook,  in  providing  a  dinner,  ought,  if  possible,  to  consult  the  tastes 
of  the  parties  who  are  to  eat  it,  rather  than  her  own.  This  subject, 
8* 


98  THE    COMPLETE     COOK. 

however,  if  pursued,  will  run  us  out  to  a  much  greater  extent  than 
our  limits  will  allow,  and,  after  all,  we  should  not  be  able  to  lay  down 
any  definite  rules  of  taste.  There  is  one  direction  which  we  shall 
give,  and  v.'hich  a  cook  will  find  it  worth  her  while  to  attend  to, 
namely,  ichenever  she  Jinds  the  palate  become  dull  by  repeatedly 
tasting,  one  of  the  best  ways  of  refreshing  it  is  to  masticate  an  apple j 
Of  to  wash  her  mouth  loell  with  milk. 

FLAVOURINGS,  ESSENCES,  POWDERS,  &c. 

326.  To  prepare  sweet  Herbs  for  keeping. — It  is  highly  desirable, 
according  to  the  taste  and  style  of  living  of  the  family,  that  prepara- 
tions of  sweet  herbs,  either  in  powder,  dried  bunches  (the  powder  is 
best,)  or  in  the  form  of  essences  and  tinctures,  be  always  kept  at 
hand,  ready  for  use.  The  following  is  the  best  way  of  preparing 
them: — Gather  your  herbs,  including  thyme  of  the  various  sorts, 
marjoram  and  savoury,  sage,  mint,  and  balm,  hyssop  and  pennyroyal, 
when  they  are  come  to  full  grov»'tli,  just  before  they  begin  to  flower; 
when  they  must  be  gathered  perfectly  free  from  damp,  dust,  dirt,  and 
insects.  Cut  oft'  the  roots,  and  tie  the  herbs  in  small  bundles.  Dry 
as  quick  as  possible,  either  in  the  sun,  in  a  dutch  oven  before  the  fire, 
or  in  a  dry  room  with  a  thorough  draught.  When  quite  dry,  pick  off 
the  leaves,  and  rub  them  till  they  are  reduced  to  a  fine  pov/der,  when 
bottle  close  for  use.  Seeds  of  parsley,  fennel,  and  celery,  should  be 
kept  for  the  purpose  of  flavouring,  when  the  green  herb  cannot  be 
obtained. 

327.  Savoury  Soup  Powder  is  compounded  of  parsley,  winter  sa- 
voury, sweet  marjoram,  and  lemon  thyme,  of  each  two  ounces;  sweet 
basil,  one  ounce;  verbinia  leave.?  and  knotted  marjoram,  of  each  half 
an  ounce ;  celery  seed  and  bay  leaves  (some  leave  out  the  bay  leaves,) 
of  each  two  drachms.  Dry  in  a  Dutch  oven,  thoroughly,  but  not  to 
scorch ;  then  rub  the  leaves  to  a  fine  powder.  The  seeds  will  be  best 
ground,  but  pounding  will  do ;  sift  all  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  bottle 
for  use.     This  is  an  excellent  compound. 

328.  Curry  Powder  may  be  made  almost,  if  not  altogether,  as  good 
as  the  Indian,  by  taking  three  ounces  of  coriander  seeds;  turmeric 
two  or  three  ounces;  black  pepper,  mustard,  and  ginger,  one  ounce 
of  each  ;  allspice  and  lesser  cardamons,  half  an  ounce  each,  and  cumin 
seed,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce.  Put  the  inyredients  in  a  cool  oven  for 
the  nisrht;  thoroughly  pound  and  mix  together,  and  close  bottle  for 
use.     Do  not  use  cayenne  in  a  curry  powder. 

329.  Povjderfor  Ragouts. — A  good  powder  for  flavouring  ragouts 
is  compounded  of  salt,  one  ounce;  mustard,  lemon  peel,  and  black 
pepper,  ground,  of  each  half  an  ounce;  allspice  and  ginger,  groinid, 
nutmeg,  grated,  and  cayenne  pepper,  of  each  a  quarter  of  an  ounce. 
Dry  in  a  Dutch  oven  before  a  gentle  fire;  pound  in  a  mortar,  and  sift 
through  a  hair  sieve. 

330.  Powder  for  Brown  made  dishes. — Black  pepper  and  .Jamaica, 
ground,  of  each  half  an  ounce;  nutmeg,  grated,  half  an  ounce;  cinna- 


FLAVOURINGS,   &C.  99 

mon,  in  powder,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce ;  cloves,  one  drachnn  ;  dry  ;  finely 
powder  and  bottle. 

331.  Powder  for  White  made  dishes. — White  pepper  half  an 
ounce;  nutmeg- a  quarter  of  an  ounce ;  mace  one  drachm;  dried  le- 
mon peel,  grated,  one  drachm. 

332.  Preserved  Orange  and  Lemon  Peels. — Shave  the  thin  skin, 
without  a  particle  of  \viiite,ofFyour  superfluous  Seville  orange  and  lemon 
peel ;  put  in  a  mortar,  with  a  small  lump  of  dried  sugar  to  each  peel ; 
beat  them  well  till  the  rind  and  sugar  be  blended  together  in  a  kind 
of  marmalade  ;  let  the  mixture  he  pressed  close  in  a  bottle,  with  a 
tea-spoonful  of  brandy  at  top,  and  secure  from  the  air  with  a  cork  or 
bladder.  This  will  be  found  a  better  flavouring,  and  more  handy  than 
grating  dry  rinds. 

333.  Essences,  or  Tinctures  of  Herbs,  Szc. — Combine  their  essen- 
tial oils  with  good  tasteless  spirits  (which  is  better  than  brandy,  and 
much  cheaper)  in  the  proportion  of  one  drachm  of  essential  oil  to  two 
ounces  of  spirits;  or  fill  a  wide-mouthed  bottle  with  the  leaves,  seeds, 
roots,  or  peel,  perfectly  dry,  then  pour  over  them  spirits  of  wine,  vine- 
gar, or  wine;  keep  the  mixture  steeping  in  a  warm  place,  not  hot, 
for  twelve  or  fourteen  days,  when  strain  and  bottle  close  for  use.  Bot- 
tles with  glass  stoppers  are  best.  These  essences  are  very  handy,  and 
are  to  be  hud  all  the  year  round. 

334.  Essence  of  Anchovies. — Purchase  the  best  anchovies,  that 
have  been  in  pickle  about  a  year.  Pound  twelve  of  them  in  a  mortar 
to  a  pulp,  then  put  them  into  a  well-tinned  saucepan,  by  the  side  of 
the  fire,  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  best  vinegar  sherry,  or  brandy,  or 
mushroom  catsup;  stir  it  very  often  till  the  fish  are  melted,  then  add 
fifteen  grains  in  weight  of  the  best  cayenne  pepper ;  stir  it  well,  then 
rub  it  through  a  hair  sieve  with  a  wooden  spoon  ;  bottle  and  cork 
very  tight  with  the  best  cork.  When  the  bottle  is  opened,  cork  it 
well  again  with  a  new  cork,  as  the  least  air  spoils  it.  That  which  re- 
mains in  the  sieve  makes  a  pleasant  relish  for  breakfast  or  lunch,  with 
bread  and  butter.  If  a  large  quantity  is  made,  press  it  down  in  small 
jars.     Cover  it  with  clarified  butter,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place. 

335.  Anchovy  Poioder. — Pound  the  anchovies  in  a  mortar,  rub  them 
through  a  sieve,  make  them  into  a  paste  with  the  finest  flour,  dried, 
roll  it  into  thin  cakes;  dry  them  before  a  slow  fire;  when  quite  crisp, 
pound  or  grate  them  to  a  fine  powder,  and  put  into  a  well-stopped 
bottle.  It  will  keep  good  for  years,  and  is  a  savoury  relish  sprinkled 
on  bread  and  butter. 

336.  Oyster  Powder. — Open  the  oysters  carefully,  so  as  not  to  cut 
them,  except  in  dividing  the  gristle  from  the  shells  ;  put  them  into  a 
mortar  ;  add  about  two  drachms  of  salt  to  a  dozen  oysters,  pound  them 
and  rub  them  through  the  back  of  a  hair  sieve,  and  put  them  into  a 
mortar  again,  with  as  much  flour,  thoroughly  dried,  as  will  make 
them  into  a  paste ;  roll  it  out  several  times,  and  lastly,  flour  it  and 
roll  it  out  the  thickness  of  half  a  crown,  and  divide  it  into  pieces 
about  an  inch  square;  lay  them  in  a  dutch  oven  before  the  fire,  take 
care  they  do  not  burn,  turn   them  every  half  hour,  and  when   they 


100  THE    COMPLETE     COOK. 

begin  to  dry,  crumble  them  ;  they  will  take  about  four  hours  to  dry  ; 
then  pound  them  fine,  sift  them,  and  put  them  into  bottles ;  seal  them 
over, 

'S'S7.  Spirit  of  mixed  Herbs. — Take  winter  savoury,  lemon  thyme, 
sweet  basil,  and  lemon  rind,  celery  seed  one  drachm,  steep  them  in  a 
pint  of  spirits  of  wine.  Then  drain  and  bottle  the  liquor.  The  herbs, 
after  draining-,  will  keep  two  or  three  weeks,  and  may  be  used  lor  fla- 
vouring. 

3;38.   Tincture  of  Lemon  or  Seville  Orange  Peel. — Half  fill  a  wide-  I 
mouthed  bottle  with  good  spirits;  shave  the  thin  rind  ofl^  the  lemon, 
and  put  it  into  the  bottle  until  it  is  full :  it  may  be  either  strained  off 
into  bottles,  or  suffered  to  remain  on  the  rind. 

S'i9.  Spirits  of  mixed  Spice. — Black  pepper  one  ounce,  allspice 
half  an  ounce,  boih  finely  powdered  ;  nutmeg  quarter  of  an  ounce, 
grated  ;  infuse  in  a  pint  of  spirits  of  wine,  strain,  and  bottle. 

MADE    DISHES. 

There  is  little  to  be  added  to  our  general  remarks  on  this  subject,  ^ 
under  the  heads  of  Stewing,  Hashing,  Thickening,  Flavouring,  &c. 
Made  dishes  are  almost  innumerable.  They  are,  however,  nothing 
more  than  meat,  poultry,  or  fish,  stewed  very  gently  till  they  are  ten- 
der, with  a  thickening  sauce  of  some  kind  or  other  poured  over  them. 
Their  difl^erence  consists  in  their  flavour,  which  may  be  so  modified 
by  an  ingenious  cook  as  to  moke  them  almost  endless.  Let  our  pre- 
liminary remarks  on  these  subjects  be  well  studied.  We  subjoin  a 
few  receipts. 

340.  Calf's  Head, — Take  the  half  of  one,  with  the  skin  on  ;  put  it 
into  a  large  stew-pan,  with  as  much  water  as  will  cover  it,  a  knuckle 
of  ham,  and  the  usual  accompaniments  of  onions,  herbs,  &c.,  and  let 
it  simmer  till  the  flesh  may  be  separated  from  the  bone  with  a  spoon  ; 
do  so,  and  Vv'hile  still  hot  cut  it  into  as  large  a  sized  square  as  a  piece 
wri'  ao.  it  of;  the  trimming  and  half  the  liquor  put  by  in  a  tureen  ; 
t'  the  :^  maining  half  add  a  gill  of  white  wine,  and  reduce  the  whole 
of  that,  by  quick  boiling,  till  it  is  again  half  consumed,  when  it  should 
be  poured  over  the  large  square  piece,  in  an  earthen  vessel,  sur- 
rounded with  mushrooms,  white  buttoned  onion,  small  pieces  of 
pickled  pork,  half  an  inch  in  breadth,  and  one  and  a  half  in  length,  and 
the  tongue  in  slices,  and  simmered  till  the  whole  is  fit  to  seive  up; 
bome  brown  force  meat  balls  are  a  pretty  addition.  After  this  comes 
from  table,  the  remains  should  be  cut  up  in  small  pieces,  and  mixed  up 
with  the  trimmings  and  liquor,  which  (with  a  little  more  wine,)  pro- 
perly thickened,  will  make  a  very  good  mock  turtle  soup  for  a  future 
occasion. 

341.  Hashed  Meat. — Cut  the  meat  into  slices  about  the  thickness 
of  two  shillings,  trim  oflTall  the  sinews,  skin,  and  gristle,  put  nothing 
in  but  what  is  to  be  eaten,  lay  them  on  a  plate  ready  ;  prepare  your 
eauce  to  warm  in  it,  put  in  the  meat,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  till  it 


MADE     DISHES 


101 


18  thorouglily  warm ;  do  not  let  it  boil,  as  that  will  make  the  meat 
touo^h  and  hard. 

342.  Hxished  Beef  or  Mutton. — One  tea-spoonful  of  Harvey  sauce, 
one  of  Tomata  sauce,  the  same  quantity  of  any  other  sauce  ;  pepper, 
Bait,  cayenne,  half  a  wine  glass  of  port  wine,  and  a  couple  of  capsi- 
cums cut  fine  ;  mix  with  the  remains  of  the  gravy  of  the  preceding 
day,  of  beef  or  mutton  ;  if  necessary  to  thicken,  add  one  shake  of  the 
flour  dredger.     This  is  a  good  hash. 

343.  Sandwiches  are  an  elegant  and  convenient  luncheon,  if  nicely 
prepared  ;  the  bread  should  be  neatly  cut  with  a  sharp  knife ;  what- 
ever is  used  must  be  carefully  trimmed  from  every  bit  of  skin,  gristle, 
&c.,  and  nothing  must  be  introduced  but  what  you  are  absolutely  cer- 
tain v;ill  be  acceptable  to  the  mouth. 

344.  A  good  Scotch  Haggis. — Make  the  haggis-bag  perfectly 
clean  ;  parboil  the  draught,  boil  the  liver  very  well,  so  as  it  will  grate, 
dry  the  meat  before  the  fire,  mince  the  draught  and  a  pretty  large 
piece  of  beef  very  small;  grate  about  half  of  the  liver,  mince  plenty 
of  suet  and  some  onions  small ;  mix  all  these  materials  very  well  to- 
gether, with  a  handful  or  two  of  the  dried  meal ;  spread  them  on  the 
table,  and  season  them  properly  with  salt  and  mixed  spices;  take  any 
of  the  scraps  of  beef  that  are  left  from  mincing,  and  some  of  the  wa- 
ter that  boiled  the  draught,  and  make  about  a  quart  of  good  stock  of 
it;  then  put  all  the  haggis  meat  into  the  bag,  and  that  broth  in  it; 
then  sew  up  the  bag,  but  be  sure  to  put  out  all  the  wind  before  you 
Bew  it  quite  close.  If  you  think  the  bag  is  thin,  you  may  put  it  in 
a  cloth.     If  it  is  a  large  haggis,  it  will  take  at  least  two  hours  boiling. 

345.  Mr.  Phillips''s  Irish  Stew. — Take  five  thick  mutton  chops,  or 
two  pounds  oft'  the  neck  or  loin ;  two  pounds  of  potatoes,  peel  them, 
and  cut  them  in  halves ;  six  onions,  or  half  a  pound  of  onions,  peel 
and  slice  them  also.  First,  put  a  layer  of  potatoes  at  the  bottom  of 
your  stew-pan,  then  a  couple  of  chops  and  some  of  the  onions;  then 
again  potatoes,  and  so  on,  till  the  pan  is  quite  full ;  a  small  spoonful 
of  white  pepper,  and  about  one  and  a  half  of  salt,  and  three  gills  of 
broth  or  gravy,  and  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  mushroom  catsup ;  cover  all 
very  close  in,  so  as  to  prevent  the  steam  from  getting  out,  and  let 
them  stew  for  an  hour  and  a  half  on  a  very  slow  fire.  A  small  slice 
of  ham  is  a  great  addition  to  this  dish.  Great  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  let  it  burn. 

346.  Mutton  Chops  delicately  stewed^  and  good  Mutton  Broth. — 
Put  the  chops  into  a  stew-pan  with  cold  water  enough  to  cover  them, 
and  an  onion ;  when  it  is  coming  to  the  boil,  skim  it,  cover  the  pan 
close,  and  set  it  over  a  very  slow  fire  till  the  chops  are  tender ;  if 
they  have  been  kept  a  proper  time,  they  will  take  about  three-quarters 
of  an  hour  very  gentle  simmering.  Send  up  turnips  with  them — they 
may  be  boiled  with  the  chops;  skim  well,  and  then  send  all  up  in  a 
deep  dish,  with  the  broth  they  were  stewed  in. 

347.  Minced  CoUops. — Take  beef,  and  chop  and  mince  it  very 
small,  to  which  add  some  salt  and  pepper ;  put  this,  in  its  rav/  state, 
into  small  jars,  and  pour  on  the  top  some  clarified  butter.     When  in- 


1U2  THE     COMPLETE    COOK. 

tended  for  use,  put  the  clarified  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  slice 
some  onions  into  the  pan,  and  fry  them.  Add  a  little  water  to  it,  and 
then  put  in  the  minced  meat.  Stew  it  well,  and  in  a  few  minutes  it 
will  be  fit  to  serve  up. 

348.  Brisket  of  Beef ,  steioed. — This  is  prepared  in  exactly  the 
same  way  as  "soup  and  bouilli." 

349.  Harricot  of  Beef. — A  stewed  brisket  cut  in  slices,  and  sent  up 
with  the  same  sauce  of  roots,  &c.,  as  we  have  directed  for  harricot  of 
mutton,  is  a  most  excellent  dish,  of  very  mo<lerate  expense. 

350.  Salt  Beef  baked. — Let  a  buttock  of  beef,  which  has  been  in 
salt  about  a  week,  be  well  washed  and  put  into  an  earthen  pan,  v.'ith 
a  pint  of  water ;  cover  the  pan  tiijht  with  two  or  three  sheets  of 
foolscap  paper ;  let  it  bake  four  or  five  hours  in  a  moderately  heated 
oven. 

351.  Beef  baked  like  red  deer,  to  he  eaten  cold. — Cut  buttock  of 
beef  longways,  beat  it  well  with  a  rolling-  pin,  and  broil  it ;  when  it  is 
cold,  lard  it,  and  macerate  it  in  wine  vinegar,  salt,  pepper,  cloves, 
mace,  and  two  or  three  bay  leaves,  for  two  or  three  days  ;  then  bake 
it  in  rye  paste,  let  it  stand  till  it  is  cold,  and  fill  it  up  with  butter;  let 
it  stand  for  a  fortnight  before  it  is  eaten. 

352.  8hin  or  Leg  of  Beef  stewed. — Have  the  bone  sawed  in  three 
or  four  pieces,  and  the  marrow  either  taken  out,  or  stopped  with  paste. 
Cover  with  cold  water,  and  having  skimmed  it  clean,  add  onions,  car- 
rot, celery,  sweet  herbs,  and  spice.  Let  the  whole  stew  very  gently 
three  hours  and  a  half  or  four  hours.  Meanwhile,  cut  up  the  red  part 
of  two  or  three  carrots,  two  or  three  turnips,  peel  two  dozen  button 
onions,  boil  them,  and  drain  them  dry;  as  the  onions  and  turnips 
should  retain  their  shape,  and  the  carrots  require  longer  to  boil,  they 
ought  to  be  put  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour  earlier.  Do  not  let  them  be 
over-done.  When  the  meat  is  quite  tender,  take  it  out  with  a  slice, 
and  strain  the  soup.  Thicken  the  soup  with  a  small  tea-cup  full  of 
flour,  mixed  either  with  a  little  butter,  or  the  fat  of  the  soup.  Stir 
this  well  in  till  it  boils,  and  is  perfectly  smooth ;  if  not,  it  must  be 
strained  through  a  tamis,  and  carefully  skimmed,  and  then  returned 
to  warm  the  vegetables.  The  meat  may  be  served  whole,  or  scraped 
from  the  bones,  and  cut  in  pieces.  Season  the  soup  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  wine  glass  each  of  port  wine  and  mushroom  catsup,  and  pour 
over  the  meat ;  or,  if  necessary,  put  the  meat  in  a  stew-pan  to  warm. 
Serve  all  together.  Curry  may  be  added,  if  approved — also,  force 
meat  balls. 

353.  Hare. — Instead  of  roasting  a  hare,  stew  it;  if  young,  plain — 
if  an  old  one,  lard  it.  The  shoulders  and  legs  should  be  taken  ofl^,  and 
the  back  cut  in  three  pieces;  these,  with  a  bay  leaf,  half  a  dozen  es- 
chalots, one  onion  pierced  with  four  cloves,  should  be  laid  with  as 
much  good  vinegar  as  will  cover  them,  for  twenty-four  hours  in  a  deep 
dish,  in  the  meantime,  the  head,  the  neck,  ribs-,  liver,  heart,  &c.,  should 
be  browned  in  frothed  butter,  well  seasoned ;  add  half  a  pound  of  lean 
bacon,  cut  in  small  pieces,  a  large  bunch  of  herbs,  a  carrot,  and  a  fevv 
allspice.     Simmer  these  in  a  quart  of  water  till  it  is  reduced  to  about 


MADE     MEATS.  103 

half  the  quantity,  when  it  should  be  strained,  and  those  parts  of  the 
hare  which  have  been  infused  in  the  vinegar,  should  (with  the  whole 
contents  of  the  dish)  be  added  to  it,  and  stewed  till  quite  done.  Those 
who  Jiiie  onions  may  brown  half  a  dozen,  stew  them  in  part  of  the 
gravy,  and  dish  them  round  the  hare.  Every  ragout  should  be  dressed 
the  day  before  it  is  wanted,  that  any  fat  which  has  escaped  the  skim- 
ming spoon  may  with  ease  be  taken  off  when  cold. 

354.  Jugged  Hare. — Wash  it  very  nicely,  cut  it  up  in  pieces  proper 
to  help  at  table,  and  put  them  into  a  jugging  pot,  or  into  a  stone  jar, 
just  sufficiently  large  to  hold  it  well ;  put  in  some  sweet  herbs,  a  roll 
or  two  of  rind  of  a  lemon,  and  a  fine  large  onion  with  five  cloves  stuck 
in  it ;  and  if  you  wish  to  preserve  the  flavour  of  the  hare,  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  water  ;  if  you  are  for  a  ragout,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  claret- or 
port  wine,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Tie  the  jar  down  closely  with  a 
bladder,  so  that  no  steam  can  escape;  put  a  little  hay  in  the  bottom  of 
the  saucepan,  in  which  place  the  jar;  let  the  water  boil  for  about 
three  hours,  according  to  the  age  and  size  of  the  hare  (take  care  it  is 
not  over-done,  which  is  the  general  fault  in  all  made  dishes,)  keep- 
ing  it  boiling  all  the  time,  and  fill  up  the  pot  as  it  boils  away.  When 
quite  tender,  strain  off  gravy  from  fat,  thicken  it  with  flour,  and  give 
it  a  boil  up ;  lay  the  hare  in  a  soup  dish,  and  pour  the  gravy  to  it. 
You  may  make  a  pudding  the  same  as  for  roast  hare,  and  boil  it  in  a 
cloth,  and  when  you  dish  your  hare,  cut  it  in  slices,  or  make  force 
meat  balls  of  it  for  garnish.  For  sauce,  currant  jelly.  Or  a  much 
easier  and  quicker  way  of  proceeding  is  the  following  :  Prepare  the 
hare  as  for  jugging;  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  few  sweet  herbs, 
half  a  dozen  cloves,  the  same  of  allspice  and  black  pepper,  two  large 
onions,  and  a  roll  of  lemon  peel ;  cover  it  with  water ;  when  it  boils, 
skim  it  clean,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  till  tender  (about  two  hours ;) 
then  take  it  up  with  a  slice,  set  it  by  a  fire  to  keep  hot  while  you 
thicken  the  gravy;  take  three  ounces  of  butter  and  some  flour,  rub 
together,  put  in  the  gravy,  stir  it  well,  and  let  it  boil  about  ten  mi- 
nutes; strain  it  through  a  sieve  over  the  hare,  and  it  is  ready. 

355.  Slewed  Rump  Steaks. — The  steaks  must  be  a  little  thicker 
-han  for  broiling ;  let  them  all  be  the  same  thickness,  or  some  will  be 
done  too  little,  and  others  too  much.  Put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a 
Btew-pan,  with  two  onions;  when  the  butter  is  melted,  lay  in  the 
rump  steaks,  let  them  stand  over  a  slow  fire  for  five  minutes,  then 
turn  them,  and  let  the  other  side  of  them  fry  five  minutes  longer.  Have 
ready  boiled  a  pint  of  button  onions;  they  will  take  from  half  an  hour 
to  an  hour;  put  the  liquor  they  were  boiled  in  to  the  steaks;  if  there 
is  not  enough  of  it  to  cover  them,  add  broth  or  boiling  water  to  make 
up  enough  for  that  purpose,  with  a  dozen  corns  of  black  pepper,  and 
a  little  salt,  and  let  them  simmer  very  gently  for  about  an  hour  and 
a  half,  and  then  strain  off  as  much  of  the  liquor  (about  a  pint  and  a 
half,)  as  you  think  will  make  the  sauce.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in 
a  stew-pan ;  when  it  is  melted,  stir  in  as  much  flour  as  will  make  it 
into  a  stiff  paste;  some  add  thereto  a  table-spoonful  of  claret  or  port 
wine,  the  same  of  mushroom  catsup,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and 


104  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

a  quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  ground  black  pepper;  add  the  liquor  by 
(letrrees,  let  it  boil  up  for  fifteen  minute?!,  Bkiai  it,  aiid  strain  it;  serve 
up  the  steaks  with  tlie  onions  round  the  dish,  and  pour  the  gravy 
over  it. 

350.  Broiled  Rump  Steaks  with  Onion  Gravy. — Peel  and  slice 
two  larore  onions,  put  them  into  a  quart  stovv-pun,  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  v»?ater ;  cover  the  stew-pan  close,  set  it  on  a  siow  fire  till 
the  water  has  boiled  away,  and  the  onions  have  got  a  little  browned, 
then  add  half  a  pint  of  good  broth,  and  boil  the  onions  till  they  are 
tender;  strain  tiie  broth  from  them,  and  chop  them  very  fine,  and  sea- 
son with  nmshroom  catsup,  pepj)er,  and  so  it;  put  the  onion  into  it, 
and  let  it  boil  gently  for  five  minutc^s,  pour  it  into  the  dish,  and  lay 
it  over  a  broiled  rump  stenk.  U  instead  of  broth  you  use  i{(X):l  beef 
gravy,  it  will  be  superlative.  Stewed  cucumber  is  another  agree- 
able accompaniment  to  rump  steaks. 

357.  Bubble  and  Squeak. — For  tijis,  as  for  a  hash,  select  those  parts 
of  the  joint  that  Jiave  been  least  done;  it  is  generally  nmde  with 
slices  of  cold  boiled  salted  beef,  sprinkled  with  a  little  pepper,  and 
just  lightly  browned  with  a  bit  of  butler,  in  a  frying-pan;  if  it  is 
fried  too  much,  it  will  be  hard.  Boil  a  cabbage,  squeeze  it  quite  dry, 
and  chop  it  small;  take  the  beef  out  of  the  frying-pan,  and  lay  the 
cabbage  in  it;  sprinkle  a  little  pepper  and  salt  over  it;  keep  the  pan 
moving  over  tlie  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  lay  the  cabbage  in  the  middle 
of  the  dkh,  and  the  meat  round  it. 

358.  Hashed  or  minced  Veal. — To  make  a  hash,  cut  the  meat  into 
into  slices :  to  prepare  minced  veal,  mince  it  as  fine  as  possible  (do 
not  chop  it);  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  veal  or 
mutton  broih,  or  make  some  with  tiie  bones  and  trimmings,  as  ordered 
for  veal  cutlets,  a  little  lemon  peel  minced  fine,  a  spoonful  of  milk  or 
cream  ;  thicken  with  butter  and  flour,  and  season  it  with  salt,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  pickle  or  basil  wine,  or  a  pinch  of  cuiry  powder. 
If  you  have  no  cream,  beat  up  the  yolks  of  a  couple  of  eggs  with  a 
little  milk  ;  line  the  dish  with  sippets  of  lightly  toasted  bread. 

359.  To  make  an  excellent  Ragout  of  cold  Veal. — Either  a  neck, 
loin,  or  fillet  of  veal  will  furnish  this  excellent  nigout  with  a  very 
litile  expense  or  trouble.  Cut  the  veal  into  handsome  cutlets;  put  a 
piece  of  butter,  or  clean  dripping,  into  a  frying-pan;  as  soon  as  it  is 
hot,  flour  and  fry  the  veal  of  a  light  brown;  take  it  out,  and  if  you 
have  no  gravy  ready,  put  a  pint  of  boiling  water  into  the  frying-pan, 
give  it  a  boil  up  for  a  minute,  and  strain  it  in  a  ba.^ln  while  you  make 
Bomo  thickening  in  tlie  following  manner:  Put  about  an  ounce  of 
butter  into  a  stew-pnn  ;  as  soon  as  it  melts,  mix  it  with  as  much  flour 
as  will  dry  it  up;  stir  it  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  and  gradually 
add  to  it  the  gravy  you  made  in  the  frying-pan;  let  them  simmer 
together  for  ten  minutes;  season  it  with  pepper,  salt,  a  little  mace, 
and  a  wine-glassful  of  mushroom  catsup  or  wine;  strain  it  through  a 
{amis  to  the  meat,  and  stew  very  gently  till  the  meat  is  thoroughly 
warmed.  If  you  have  any  ready  boiled  bacon,  cut  it  in  slices,  anc 
put  it  to  warm  with  the  meat.  , 


MADE      MEATS.  106 

36G'  Veal  Olives.— Cat  half  a  dozen  slices  off  a  fillet  of  veal,  half 
an  inch  thick,  and  as  long  and  square  as  you  can;  flat  them  with  a 
chopper,  and  rub  them  over  with  an  egg  that  has  been  beat  on  a  plate; 
cut  some  fat  bacon  as  thin  as  possible,  the  same  size  as  the  veal ;  lay 
it  on  the  veal,  and  rub  it  with  a  little  of  the  egg ;  make  a  little  veal 
force  meat,  and  spread  it  very  thin  over  the  bacon ;  roll  up  the  olives 
tight;  rub  them  with  an  egg,  and  then  roll  them  in  fine  bread  crumbs; 
put  them  on  a  lark-spit,  and  roast  them  at  a  brisk  fire ;  they  will  tako 
three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Rump  steaks  are  sometimes  dressed  this 
way.     Mushroom  sauce,  brown  or  beef  gravy. 

361.  Knuckle  of  Veal  to  ragout. — Cut  the  knuckle  of  veal  into 
slices  of  about  half  an  inch  thick  ;  pepper,  salt,  and  flour  them ;  fry 
them  a  light  brown ;  put  the  trimmings  in  a  stew-pan,  with  the  bone, 
broke  in  several  places;  an  onion  shred,  a  head  of  celery,  a  bunch  of 
Bweet  herbs,  and  two  blades  of  bruised  mace ;  pour  in  warm  water 
enough  to  cover  them  about  an  inch ;  cover  the  pot  close,  and  let  it 
6tew  very  gently  for  a  couple  of  hours ;  strain  it,  and  then  thicken  it 
with  flour  and  butter;  put  in  a  spoonful  of  catsup,  a  glass  of  wine, 
and  juice  of  half  a  lemon;  give  it  a  boil  up,  and  strain  into  a  clean 
stew-pan ;  put  in  the  meat,  make  it  hot,  and  serve  up.  If  celery  is 
not  to  be  had,  use  a  carrot  instead,  or  flavour  it  with  celery  seed. 

362.  Scotch  Collops. — The  veal  must  be  cut  the  same  as  for  cut- 
lets, in  pieces  about  as  big  as  a  crown  piece ;  flour  them  well,  and 
fry  them  of  a  light  brown,  in  fresh  butter ;  lay  them  in  a  stew-pan ; 
dredge  them  over  with  flour,  and  then  put  in  as  much  boiling  water 
as  will  cover  the  vea  ,  pour  this  in  by  degrees,  shaking  the  stew-pan, 
and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  it  comes  to  a  boil,  take  off  the  scum,  put 
in  an  onion,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  let  it  simmer  very  gently  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour ;  lay  them  on  a  dish,  and  pour  the  gravy  through 
a  sieve  over  them.  Lemon  juice  and  peel,  wine,  catsup,  are  some- 
times added.     Add  curry  powder,  and  you  have  curry  collops. 

363.  Slices  of  Ham  or  Bacon. — Ham  or  bacon  may  be  fried,  or 
broiled  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  or  toasted  with  a  fork ;  take 
care  to  slice  it  of  the  same  thickness  in  every  part.  If  you  wish  it 
curled,  cut  it  in  slices  about  two  inches  long  (if  longer,  the  outside 
will  be  done  too  much  before  the  inside  is  done  enough) ;  roll  it  up, 
and  put  a  little  vi^ooden  skewer  through  it;  put  it  in  a  cheese-toaster, 
or  dutch  oven,  for  eight  or  ten  minutes,  turning  it  as  it  gets  crisp. 
This  is  considered  the  handsomest  way  of  dressing  bacon ;  but  we 
like  it  best  uncurled,  because  it  is  crisper  and  more  equally  done. 
Slices  of  ham  or  bacon  should  not  be  more  than  half  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  and  will  eat  much  more  mellow  if  soaked  in  hot  water  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  then  dried  in  a  cloth  before  they  are  broiled. 
If  you  have  any  cold  bacon,  yoif  may  make  a  very  nice  dish  of  it,  by 
cutting  it  into  slices  of  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.;  grate  some 
crusts  of  bread,  as  directed  for  ham,  and  powder  them  well  with  it 
on  both  sides;  lay  the  rashers  in  a  cheese-toaster — they  will  be  brown 
on  one  side  in  about  three  minutes — turn  them,  and  do  the  other. 
These  are  delicious  accompaniamejots  to  poached  or  fried  eggs.    The 


106  THE   COMPLETE   COOK. 

bacon  having  been  boiled  first,  is  tender  and  mellow.  They  are  an 
excellent  garnish  round  veal  cutlets,  or  sweetbread,  or  calf's  head 
hash,  or  green  peas,  or  beans,  &c. 

364.  A  Devil. — The  gizzard  and  rump,  or  legs,  &c.,  of  a  dressed 
turkey,  capon,  or  goose,  or  mutton  or  veal  kidney,  scored,  peppered, 
salted,  and  broiled,  sent  up  for  a  relish,  being  made  very  hot,  has  ob- 
tained the  name  of  a  "Devil." 

865.  Marrow  Bones. — Saw  the  bones  even,  so  that  they  will  stand 
Bteady;  put  a  piece  of  paste  into  the  ends;  set  them  upright  in  a 
saucepan,  and  boil  till  they  are  done  enough ;  a  beef  marrow  bone 
will  require  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours;  serve  fresh  toasted 
bread  with  them. 

366.  Ragout  of  Duck,  or  any  other  kind  of  Poultry  or  Game. — 
Partly  roast,  then  divide  into  joints,  or  pieces  of  a  suitable  size  for 
helping  at  table.  Set  it  on  in  a  stew-pan,  with  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  broth,  or,  if  you  have  no  broth,  water,  with  any  little  trimmings 
of  meat  to  enrich  it;  a  large  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  a  dozen  berries 
each  of  allspice  and  black  pepper,  and  the  rind  of  half  a  lemon  shavea 
thin.  When  it  boils  skim  it  very  clean,  and  then  let  it  simmer  gently, 
with  the  lid  close,  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Then  strain  off  the  liquor, 
and  takeout  the  limbs,  which  keep  hot  in  a  basin  or  deep  dish.  Rinse 
the  stew-pan,  or  use  a  clean  one,  in  which  put  two  ounces  of  butter, 
and  as  much  flour  or  other  thickening  as  will  bring  it  to  a  stiff  paste  . 
add  to  it  the  gravy  by  degrees.  Let  it  boil  up,  then  add  a  glass  of 
port  wine,  a  little  lemon  juice,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt;  simmer  a 
few  minutes.  Put  the  meat  in  a  deep  dish,  strain  the  gravy  over,  and 
garnish  with  sippets  of  toasted  bread.  The  flavour  may  be  varied  at 
pleasure,  by  adding  catsup,  curry  powder,  or  any  of  the  flavouring 
tinctures,  or  vinegar. 

ARTIFICIAL  PREPARATIONS   OF  MEAT,  FISH.  &c.,  FOR 
DRESSING,  SALTING,  DRYING,  &c. 

By  the  phrase  "artificial  preparations  of  meat,"  wo  allude  to  thosff 
things  which,  before  dressing,  have  to  undergo  the  processes  of  salt- 
ing, drying,  smoking,  pickling,  &c.  Before  these  n)eats  can  be 
cooked  they  must  be  prepared,  and  we,  therefore,  think  it  right  (if 
for  nothing  else  but  the  sake  of  order),  to  deviate  from  the  line  of  pro 
ceeding  of  our  predecessors,  and  to  give  directions  for  such  prepara- 
tions previous  to  the  recipes  for  cooking  them.  It  is  impossible,  fo. 
instance,  to  dress  salt  meat  before  it  is  salted. 

SALTING. 

367.  There  are  many  methods  recommended  for  carrying  this 
operation  into  effect.  The  following  in  our  opinion  are  the  best  :— 
Before  salting,  particularly  in  the  summer,  all  the  kernels,  pipes,  and 
veins,  should  be  taken  out  of  the  meat,  or  all  your  salting  will  be  in 
vain.   The  meat  will  not  keep.    The  salt  should  be  rubbed  thorougblf 


SALTING.  107 

tnd  equally  into  every  part  of  the  meat,  and  great  care  should  be 
taken  to  fill  the  holes  with  salt,  where  the  kernels  have  been  taken 
out,  and  where  the  butcher's  skewers  have  been  stuck.  It  is  also 
necessary,  directly  meat  conies  into  the  house  for  saltina,  to  wipe 
away  any  slime  or  blood  that  may  appear.  In  very  hot  weather  meat 
will  not  hang  a  single  day  without  being  liable  to  fly-blows;  if  once 
tainted,  it  will  not  take  the  salt.  In  winter  it  is  best  to  let  it  hang 
for  two  or  three  days,  but  take  care  that  it  does  npt  get  frost-bitten. 
The  salt  should  be  heated  in  very  cold  weather  before  it  is  applied  to 
the  meat. 

368.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  slightly  sprinkle  meat  with  salt  a  day  or 
two  before  finally  salting;  this  will  draw  out  the  blood.  But  the  first 
brine  should  be  thrown  away,  as  it  is  apt  to  injure  butcher's  meat, 
and  always  has  a  tendency  to  make  bacon  rusty.  The  meat  shouid 
be  wiped  thoroughly  clean  after  the  preparatory  salting. 

369.  Different  quantities  of  salt  fire  recommended ;  a  pound  of  salt 
is  sufficient  for  a  middling  sized  joint;  for  a  round  of  beef  of  twenty- 
five  pounds,  a  pound  and  a  half  should  be  rubbed  in  all  at  once,  though 
others  rub  in  a  little  at  a  time  for  two  or  three  days ;  but  at  any  rate 
it  requires  to  be  turned  and  rubbed  every  day  with  the  brine.  The 
less  salt  used  the  better,  providing  vou  use  enough  to  preserve  the 
meat.  Too  much  salt  extracts  the  juices  of  the  meat  and  makes  it 
tough.  Coarse  sugar  or  treacle  and  bay  salt  are  used  by  some  in  the 
following  proportions :  Two  ounces  of  bay  salt,  two  ounces  of  sugar, 
add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  common  salt.  A  little  saltpetre 
rubbed  in  will  make  the  meat  red,  but  is  apt  to  harden  it. 

370.  Meat  should  not  be  kept  in  salt  any  longer  than  is  necessary 
to  thoroughly  cure  it.  In  the  course  of  four  or  five  days  it  will  be 
ready  for  dressing ;  but  if  intended  to  be  eaten  cold,  two  or  three  daya 
more  will  make  it  keep  longer  and  improve  its  flavour.  Some  people 
let  meat  lie  in  salt  for  a  fortnight,  and  perhaps  this  is  necessary  for 
large  hams  and  thick  pieces  of  beef,  but  much  depends  upon  the 
quantity  of  brine.  If  this  be  sufUcient  to  cover  the  one-half  of  the 
meat,  every  time  it  is  turned,  less  time  will  be  required. 

371.  Hasty  salting  is  sometimes  necessary.  When  this  is  the 
case,  rub  half  the  quantity  of  salt  to  be  used  into  the  meat,  which 
put  in  a  warm  place  till  the  time  of  dressing.  Before  putting  it  into 
the  pot,  flour  a  coarse  cloth  and  pack  the  meat  in  it;  put  it  into  the 
water  when  boiling.  After  it  has  boiled  half  of  the  usual  time,  that 
is,  when  it  is  half  done,  take  it  up,  rub  in  the  remainder  of  the  salt 
and  again  pack  it  in  a  floured  clotli :  it  should  boil  a  little  longer 
than  when  salted  in  the  usual  manner.  Some  persona  simply  boil  it 
in  very  salt  water,  but  the  above  plan  is  the  best. 

372.  Flavoured  salt  meal  may  be  made  by  pounding  some  sweet 
herbs,  onions,  &c.,  with  salt,  and  it  may  be  rendered  still  more  relish- 
ing by  the  addition  of  a  little  zest,  or  savoury  spice. 

373.  Pickling  meat  is  effected  as  follows :  there  are  other  plans, 
but  we  prefer  the  method  given  in  the  Encyclopaedia  Britannica : — 
Six  pounds  of  salt,  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  four  ounces  of  saltpetre, 


108  THE     COMPLETE    COOK. 

boiled  in  four  gallons  of  water,  skimmed  and  allowed  to  cool,  forms  a 
very  strong  pickle,  which  will  preserve  any  meat  completely  im 
merged  in  it.  To  effect  this  complete  immersion,  which  is  essential, 
either  a  flat  stone  or  heavy  board  must  be  laid  on  the  meat.  The 
same  pickle  may  be  used  repeatedly,  provided  it  be  boiled  up  occa- 
sionally with  additional  salt  to  restore  its  strength,  diminished  by  the 
combination  of  part  of  the  salt  with  the  meat,  and  by  the  detection  of 
the  pickle  by  the  juices  of  the  meat  extracted.  By  boiling,  the  albu- 
men (which  would  cause  the  pickle  to  spoil)  is  coagulated,  and  rises 
in  the  form  of  scum,  which  must  be  carefully  removed.  Albumen  is 
so  called  because  it  resembles  in  appearance  the  white  of  an  egST,  and 
of  whose  nature  it  also  partakes.  It  is  a  constituent  in  all  meat. 
Pickled  meat  gains  in  weight;  salted  in  the  common  way,  that  is,  not 
immersed  or  covered  with  brine,  it  loses  about  one  and  a  half  in  six* 
teen. 

374.  Jerked  beef  is  made  by  cutting  it  into  thin  pieces,  or  slices,  and 
dipping  tiiem  into  sea  or  salt  water,  and  then  drying  them  quickly  in 
the  sun.  In  the  West  Indies,  where  they  can  scarcely  cure  meat  in 
the  ordinary  way  on  account  of  the  excessive  heat,  they  adopt  the 
above  method  of  preserving  beef. 

375.  Curing  bacon  is  effected  by  various  methods:  some  use  com- 
mon salt  only,  which  answers  the  purpose  very  well,  but  others  con- 
sider a  mixture  of  salt  and  sugar  or  molasses  to  be  preferable.  The 
proportions  are,  common  salt,  bay  salt,  and  coarse  sugar,  or  molasses, 
two  pounds  each,  saltpetre  six  ounces.  The  quantity  used  must  de- 
pend upon  the  size  of  the  hog  to  be  cured.  The  blood  should  be  tho- 
roughly drawn  out  of  the  meat  by  common  salt  before  finally  dressed 
for  curing,  and  the  dirty  brine  thrown  away.  Finely  powder  and  dry 
the  salt,  and  let  it  be  well  rubbed  in  ;  the  heavier  the  hand  employed, 
the  sooner  the  bacon  will  be  cured.  The  flitches  must  be  always 
kept  with  the  rind  downwards.  The  top  flitch  must  be  put  every  day 
for  a  month  at  the  bottom — thus  changiiig  them  all  round.  Some  use 
bay  salt  only,  others  rub  in  a  little  saltpetre,  for  the  purpose  of  red*- 
dening  the  lean  of  the  bacon  (see  Drying,  No.  381.) 

376.  Hams. — The  modes  of  curing  hams  are  various  in  different 
parts  of  the  country,  and  by  different  people.  We  give  the  follow- 
ing :  For  three  hams  about  twenty  pounds  each,  take  common  salt  and 
coarse  sugar  two  pounds  each,  bay  salt  and  saltpetre  six  ounces  each, 
black  pepper  four  ounces,  juniper  berries  two  ounces;  mix  together, 
and  grind  or  pound,  and  dry  before  the  fire ;  rub  this  mixture,  while 
warm,  into  the  hams,  and  then  add  as  much  common  salt  as  will  en- 
tirely cover  them.  In  two  or  three  days  pour  over  the  hams  a  pound 
of  molasses;  baste  them  with  the  pickle  every  day  for  a  month,  put- 
ting each  day  the  top  ham  to  the  bottom  ;  drain  and  smoke  (see  Dry- 
ing and  Smoking;)  or,  take  two  quarts  of  water,  two  pounds  of  salt, 
four  ounces  of  saltpetre,  one  pound  of  bay  salt,  two  pounds  of  mo- 
lasses;  boil  all  together,  and  when  cold  pour  the  mixture  over  the 
ham,  but  do  not  rub  them.  To  give  a  smoky  flavour,  some  persons 
recommend  a  pint  of  tar  water  to  be  poured  into  the  brine !     Thia 


DRYING,     SMOKING,    &C.  109 

pickle  is  sufficient  for  two  moderately  sized  hams ,  they  will  require 
to  be  about  three  weeks  in  pickle,  when  they  must  be  drained,  and 
sewed  up  separately  in  coarse  hessens  wrappers,  and  hung  to  dry 
in  a  kitchen  of  moderate  temperature,  or  laid  upon  a  bacon  rack. 

377.  Yorkshire  hams  are  completely  covered  with  the  following 
pickle,  in  quantities  according  to  the  meat  to  be  cured  :  Common  salt, 
a  peck  ;  bay  salt,  five  pounds ;  saltpetre  and  sal  prunel,  of  each  two 
ounces,  all  pounded  together.  Having  thoroughly  cleansed  your 
hands,  rub  thoroughly  in  this  mixture,  and  lay  the  rest  over  them  ; 
after  lying  three  days,  take  out  the  meat  and  boil  the  pickle  in  two 
gallons  of  water;  put  in  as  much  common  salt  as  will  make  the 
pickle  bear  an  egg;  skim  and  strain:  when  cold,  pour  it  over  the 
meat,  and  let  it  lie  a  fortnight.     Yorkshire  hams  are  not  smoked. 

378.  Tongues,  chines,  chops,  <^c. — The  pickle  first  given  in  376 
will  answer  tor  tongues,  &c.  A  neat's  tongue  will  take  a  fortnight  to 
pickle,  a  calf's  or  hog's  tongue  eight  or  ten  days,  a  small  chine  ten 
days,  or  not  more  than  a  fortnight ;  a  large  one,  nearly  three  weeks. 

379.  Mutton  hams, — The  following  is  a  good  pickle  for  mutton  hams 
and  tongues  of  all  kinds.  Take  equal  parts  of  common  salt,  bay  salt, 
and  coarse  sugar  ;  to  every  pound  of  this  mixture  add  of  saltpetre  and 
sal  prunel  one  ounce  each,  and  of  black  pepper,  albpice,  juniper  ber- 
ries, and  coriander  seed,  half  an  ounce  each  ;  bruise  or  grind  altoge- 
ther, and  dry  before  the  fire;  apply  this  mixture  hot. 

380.  Hung  or  Dutch  beef. — Hang  a  fine  tender  round  of  beef,  or 
the  silver  part  only,  for  three  or  four  days,  or  as  long  as  the  weather 
will  allow ;  then  rub  it  well  with  the  coarsest  sugar  (about  a  pound 
will  do,)  two  or  three  times  a  day,  for  three  or  four  days.  The  sugar 
having  thoroughly  penetrated  the  meat,  wipe  it  dry,  and  apply  the 
following  mixture:  Four  ounces  each  of  common  salt  and  bay  salt, 
two  ounces  each  of  saltpetre  and  sal  prunel,  one  ounce  each  of  black 
pepper  and  allspice.  Rub  them  well  in  every  day  for  a  fortnight ;  then 
roll  up  the  beef  tight,  and  bind  or  sew  it  in  a  coarse  cloth,  and  smoke 
it.  (See  381,  &c.)  Boil  a  part  as  it  may  be  wanted,  press  it  with  a 
heavy  weight  till  cold,  when  it  may  be  grated  for  sandwiches.  It 
will  keep  a  long  time. 

DRYING,  SMOKING,  &c. 

381.  Drying  may  be  eflfected  by  simply  draining  your  salted  or 
pickled  meat,  and  hanging  it  within  the  warmth  of  a  fire  in  a  dry 
kitchen,  but  smoked  dried  meat  is  preferred  by  most  persons,  and  cer 
tainly  deserves  the  preference.  The  fuel  employed  for  this  purpose 
must  be  wood  ;  sawdust  (not  deal  or  fir  sawdust)  is  generally  era- 
ployed.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  melt  or  scorch  the  meat ;  if  dried 
in  a  common  kitchen  chimney,  it  must  be  hung  high  enough.  The 
fire  must  be  kept  in  a  smothering  state,  which  may  be  easily  done 
with  sawdust,  and  in  a  place  set  apart  for  smoking ;  it  is  or  ought  to 
be  kept  burning  slowly  night  and  day.  The  best  way  is  to  send  your 
meat  to  persons  who  make  a  business  of  smoking — (not  tobacco.)    Do 

9* 


110  THE    COMPLETE     COOK. 

not  dry  your  meat  in  a  bakehouse,  or  strew  it  with  bran  when  drained 
for  drying  ;  both  will  render  the  meat  liable  to  be  infested  with  those 
voracious  little  wretches  called  weevils.  Drying  meat  by  a  malthouse 
kiln  generally  causes  it  to  rust.  After  smokingr,  the  wrappers  should 
be  removed  and  replaced  with  clean  ones.  It  is  not  a  bad  plan  to 
whitewash  hams  two  or  three  times,  when  they  are  required  to  keep 
a  long  time. 

382.  Dried  or  kippered  salmon  is  prepared  by  cleaning  (without 
washing,)  and  scaling  the  fish  ;  split  and  remove  the  bone  ;  pickle  for 
two  or  three  days  with  equal  parts  of  salt  and  sugar,  and  a  little  black 
pepper  and  saltpetre;  keep  it  well  pressed  down;  when  cured, 
stretch  each  fish  with  a  piece  of  stick,  and  dry  it  either  with  smoke 
or  otherwise. 

383.  Herrings^  <^c.  must  be  wiped  clean ;  salted  as  above ;  in 
twenty-four  hours  take  them  out  of  the  salt,  run  a  stick  through  the 
eyes,  and  hang  them  in  rows  over  an  old  cask  half  filled  with  dry  saw- 
dust, in  the  midst  of  which  thrust  a  red-hot  iron. 

384.  Haddock,  cod,  and  ling,  <^*c.  are  usually  split  down  the  mid- 
dle for  salting  let  them  lie  two  or  three  days  in  equal  parts  of  salt  and 
sugar ;  then  stretch  on  sticks,  and  dry  in  the  sun  or  artificially. 

CURING,  &c.  WITH  PYROUGNEOUS  ACID. 

385.  Mr.  Lockett,  according  to  Dr.  Wilkinson,  in  the  Philosophical 
Magazine,  1821,  was  the  first  person  who  applied  pyroligneous  acid 
in  the  curing  of  meat.  Mr.  S.  ascertained,  that  if  a  ham  had  the  re- 
duced quantity  of  salt  usually  employed  lor  smoke-dried  hams,  and 
was  then  exposed,  putrefaction  soon  took  place  where  pyroligneous 
acid  was  not  used  ;  even  one-half  of  this  reduced  portion  of  salt  is 
sufficient  when  it  is  used,  being  applied  cold,  and  the  ham  is  then 
effectually  cured  without  any  loss  of  weight,  and  retaining  more  ani- 
mal juices.  In  fact,  pyroligneous  acid,  or  acid  of  burnt  wood,  commu- 
nicates the  same  quality  to  the  meat  as  the  process  of  smoking. 

386.  In  using  this  acid  for  curing  hams,  mix  about  two  tablo 
spoonfuls  in  the  pickle  for  a  ham  of  ten  or  twelve  pounds,  and  when 
taken  out  of  the  pickle,  previous  to  being  hung  up,  paint  the  ham 
over  with  the  acid  by  means  of  a  brush ;  a  little  more  acid  is  re- 
quired for  neats'  tongues.  Dried  salmons  brushed  twice  with  the 
acid,  will  be  more  efiectualiy  cured  than  by  smoking  them  for  two 
months. 

387.  This  acid  will  preserve  meat  for  many  weeks  without  salt. 
Mr.  Lockett  kept  some  beef-steaks  perfectly  sweet  above  six  weeks. 
He  covered  the  bottom  of  the  plate  with  the  acid,  and  turned  the 
steaks  every  day. 

388.  Hams  and  beef  cured  in  this  way,  require  no  previous  soak- 
ing in  water  to  being  boiled,  and  when  boiled,  they  swell  in  size  and 
are  extremely  succulent;  the  flavour  is  increased,  and  the  meat  ren- 
dered more  nutritious.  Two  table-spoonfuls  of  acid  added  to  the 
pickle  for  Westphalia  ham  is  required,  and  when  the  ham  is  removed 


FRESH     MEAT.  Ill 

from  the  pickle,  it  must  be  well  washed  in  cold  spring  water  and 
dried,  and  then  some  of  the  acid  applied  over  it  by  means  of  a  brush, 
and  this  repeated  two  or  three  times  at  about  a  week's  interval. 

389.  To  cure  herrings,  cod,  haddock,  and  other  fish,  with  pyrolig- 
neous  acid,  salt  them  a  little  for  a  day  or  two — not  more — less  may 
do;  then  dry  them  well  with  a  coarse  cloth,  then  dip  them  into  the 
acid,  and  dry  in  the  air;  v^hen  dry,  repeat  the  process  a  few  times, 
suspending  them  like  the  manufacturer  of  candles.  The  red  colour 
in  dried  salmons  and  herrings  is  generally  attributed  to  nitre  (salt- 
petre;) very  frequently  tobacco  dissolved  in  a  fluid  not  very  agreeable 
(urine)  is  employed  for  the  purpose  of  reddening,  in  Holland.  Pyro- 
ligneous  acid  will  not  answer  for  pickling,  being  too  strong  when 
diluted  with  water  it  loses  its  virtue.  The  vinegar  of  the  shops  may 
be  advantageously  improved  by  the  addition  of  this  acid. 

KEEPING  FRESH  MEAT. 

390.  All  kinds  of  meat  should  be  hung  till  they  are  tender,  but  not 
till  they  are  putrescent ;  or,  at  any  rate,  not  a  moment  longer  than 
when  you  can  perceive  a  slight  degree  of  putrescency  in  them.  Some 
things,  such  as  venison,  hares,  &c.,  require  to  be  hung  longer  than 
others,  and  some  persons  require  meat  to  be  high,  or  partly  putrescent, 
before  it  is  dressed,  and  these  we  fear  must  have  their  palates  pleased 
whatever  may  be  the  consequence  to  their  stomachs.  Dr.  Kitchiner 
says,  "Although  we  strongly  recommend  that  animal  food  should  be 
hung  up  in  the  open  air,  till  its  fibres  liave  lost  some  degree  of  their 
toughness,  yet  let  us  be  clearly  understood  also  to  warn  you,  that  if 
kept  till  it  loses  its  natural  sweetness,  it  is  as  detrimental  to  health  as 
it  is  disagreeable  to  the  smell  and  taste."  Meat  should  be  hung  in  a 
draught  of  air,  and  in  the  shade,  particularly  in  the  summer  months ; 
and  it  should  be  dried  twice  a  day  to  keep  it  from  being  rendered 
musty  by  the  damp.  The  time  meat  should  be  hung  to  be  tender 
depends  upon  the  dampness  or  dryness  of  the  air,  and  the  degree  of 
heat.  In  damp  warm  weather  it  is  exceedingly  liable  to  become 
putrescent;  in  cold  dry  weather,  not. 

391.  If  you  find  that  your  meat  will  not  keep  till  it  is  wanted,  it  is 
a  good  plan  to  slightly  roast  it,  or  boil  it,  which  will  enable  you  to 
keep  it  a  day,  or  even  two  or  three  days  longer;  but  we  repeat  it 
must  be  very  slightly  roasted  or  boiled,  or  it  will  eat  like  meat  done 
a  second  time. 

392.  Boerhave  says,,  that  the  best  method  of  keeping  flesh  in  sum- 
mer, is  to  steep  it  in  Rhenish  wine,  with  a  little  sea  salt,  by  which 
means  it.  may  bo  preserved  a  whole  season. 

393.  According  to  Dr.  Franklin,  as  quoted  by  Dr.  Kitchiner,  game 
or  poultry  killed  by  electricity  becomes  tender  in  the  twinkling  of  an 
eye;  and  if  it  be  dressed,  will  be  delicately  tender.  We  have  no 
doubt,  indeed  it  is  an  established  fact,  that  if  they  are  killed  by  the 
operation  of  cold  lead,  the  twisting  of  the  neck,  or  any  other  of  the 
ordinary  modes  of  destroying  animal  life,  the  same  result  will  take 


112  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

pkce,  provided  they  are  dressed  before  they  are  cold,  that  is,  before 
the  sinews  and  muscles  have  become  set;  once  set,  they  must  be 
suffered  to  relax  by  keeping,  before  the  animal,  whether  ^ame  or 
poultry,  or  any  other  creature,  is  fit  for  dressing.  Take  a  fowl,  kill 
it,  put  it  into  an  oven,  or  amongst  hot  ashes,  while  it  is  still  warm 
with  life,  without  picking  off  the  feathers  or  taking  out  the  entrails, 
and  it  will  be  delicately  tender  eating,  and  perfectly  sweet.  The 
feathers  will  be  burnt  away,  and  the  entrails  are  taken  out  in  the 
shape  of  a  ball ;  the  gypsies  understand  this  mode  of  cooking.  A 
military  friend  of  ours  partook  of  part  of  a  calf  roasted  alive  in  the 
burning  of  the  buildings  of  a  farm-yard,  in  an  enemy's  country;  he 
was  not  particularly  hungry,  but  he  says  he  never  ate  meat  more  deli- 
cious and  tender.  We  mention  these  things  merely  to  illustrate  a 
principle,  not  as  an  example  to  be  followed.  In  this  country  it  is  im- 
practicable to  dress  butcher's  meat  while  still  warm  with  life;  in  hot 
countries  it  is  nearly  always  done. 

394.  For  keeping  meat  from  becoming  putrescent,  recipes,  of 
which  the  following  is  the  substance,  were  published  some  years  ago, 
and  sold  at  the  enormous  price  of  seven  shillings  and  sixpence :  Take 
a  quart  of  the  best  vinegar,  two  ounces  of  lump  sugar,  two  ounces  of 
Bait ;  boil  these  ingredients  together  for  a  few  minutes,  and  when 
cold,  anoint  with  a  brush  the  meat  to  be  preserved.  For  fish,  the 
mixture  is  directed  to  he  applied  inside;  for  poultry,  inside  and  out. 
Of  course  both  fish  and  poultry  are  to  be  cleansed. 

395.  Pyroligneous  acid,  either  with  or  without  the  sugar  and  salt, 
would  be  much  more  effectual ;  besides,  it  possesses,  to  a  certain  ex- 
tent, the  property  of  not  only  preventing  putrescency,  but  of  curing 
it  when  commenced. 


ON  THE  USE  OF  ACIDS  IN  DRESSING  FOOD. 

On  perusing  our  work  previous  to  going  to  press,  we  do  not  think 
that  we  have  dealt  sufficiently  on  the  use  of  vinegar  in  dressing  food. 
Of  pyroligneous  acid  in  the  preservation  and  curing  of  meats,  we 
have  treated  pretty  largely.  In  all  stews,  and  most  made  dishes, 
the  flavour  is  much  improved,  and  we  think  the  food  rendered  more 
digestible,  by  the  moderate  use  of  vinegar:  we  recommend,  how- 
ever, none  but  the  best  vinegar,  which  ought  to  be  applied  to  the 
meat  previous  to  its  being  put  in  the  slew-pan.  We  will  give  fo? 
example  the  following  receipt  for 

396.  Brazilian  Slew. — Take  shin  or  leg  of  beef;  cut  it  mto  slices 
or  pieces  of  two  or  three  ounces  each  ;  dip  it  in  good  vinegar,  and, 
with  or  without  onions,  or  any  other  flavouring  or  vegetable  sub- 
stances, put  it  in  a  stew-pan,  and  without  water  ;  let  it  stand  on  a 
etew-hearth,  or  by  a  slow  fire,  for  two  three,  or  four  hours,  when  it 
will  be  thoroughly  done,  will  have  yielded  plenty  of  gravy,  and  be  as 
**  tender  as  a  chicken."  Great  care  must  be  taken  that  the  heat  is 
sufficiently  moderate.  This  is  the  usual  mode  of  dressing  all  descrip- 
tions of  meat  in  the  Brazils.     We  have  recommended  leg  or  shin  of 


COOKING     VEGETABLES.  ll3 

beef,  because  it  in  fact  makes  the  richest  and  most  nutritious  stew, 
and  may  be  had  at  a  low  price ;  but  any  other  meat  or  fish  may  be  so 
dressed.  The  only  objection  to  it  is,  that  it  is  too  rich  ;  but  this  may 
be  remedied  by  eating  less  of  it,  and  a  greater  quantity  of  potatoes  or 
other  vegetables.  A  pound  and  a  half  of  leg  of  beef,  without  bone, 
so  dressed,  and  plenty  of  potatoes,  will  dine  four  people  luxuriously. 

397.  Alamode  Beef  of  the  shops,  which,  when  well  dressed,  ia 
very  delicious,  is  made  by  thickening  the  gravy  of  beef  that  has  been 
very  slowly  stewed  as  above  with  vinegar,  and  flavoure/^  with  bay 
leaves,  allspice,  «Sz.c.,  according  to  taste.  The  following  process  will 
be  found  a  good  one:  cut  your  beef,  mouse  buttock,  or  sticking  pieces, 
or  legs  (legs  are  the  best),  &c.,  into  pieces  of  two  or  three  ounces 
each;  put  into  a  deep  stew-pan  some  beef  dripping,  to  keep  the  meat 
from  sticking  to  the  bottom  ;  mince  onions,  which  mix  with  the  beef, 
previously  dipped  in  vinegar,  and  put  the  mixture  into  a  deep  stew- 
pan.  When  quite  hot,  flour  the  meat  with  a  dredger,  and  continue 
to  do  so  till  you  have  stirred  in  enough  to  thicken  it;  then  cover  it 
with  boiling  water,  which  should  be  put  in  by  degrees,  stirring  it 
together  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Flavour  with  black  pepper,  allspice, 
bay  leaves,  champignons,  truflies,  mushrooms,  &.c.,  according  to  taste  ; 
but  allspice,  black  pepper,  and  salt,  will  answer  every  useful  purpose. 
Let  it  stew  as  slowly  as  possible  for  four  or  five  hours.  We  can 
testify  from  experience  that  oar  Brazilian  stew  and  beef  alamode  are 
cheap  and  delicious  dishes. 

COOKING  VEGETABLES. 

This  branch  of  cookery,  though  apparently  very  simple,  requires 
the  utmost  attention,  and  no  little  judgment. 

398.  You  should  always  boil  vegetables  in  soft  water,  if  you  can 
procure  it ;  if  not,  put  a  tea-spoonful  or  more  of  carbonate  of  soda  in  it 
to  render  it  so. 

399.  Take  care  to  wash  and  cleanse  all  vegetables  from  dust  and 
other  impurities,  before  putting  them  into  the  pot  or  pan  ;  they  should 
be  thoroughly  cleansed ;  for  which  purpose  it  will  be  necessary  to 
open  the  leaves  of  greens,  or  otherwise  you  may  send  to  the  table 
some  fine,  fat,  overfed  caterpillars,  and  thus  spoil  the  whole  dish. 

400.  Upon  the  whole,  it  is  best  to  boil  vegetables  in  a  saucepan  by 
themselves.  The  quicker  they  boil,  the  greener  they  will  be.  When 
they  sink,  they  are  generally  done  enough,  if  the  water  has  been  kept 
constantly  boiling.  When  done,  take  them  up  immediately^  and  tho- 
roughly drain.  If  vegetables  are  a  minute  too  long  over  the  fire,  they 
Jose  all  their  beauty  and  flavour.  If  not  thoroughly  boiled  tender,  they 
are  tremendously  indigestible ;  and  much  more  troublesome  during 
their  residence  in  the  stomach,  than  underdone  meats. 

401.  Vegetables  are  in  greatest  perfection,  when  in  greatest  plenty, 
and  they  are  only  in  greatest  plenty  when  in  full  season.  All  vege- 
tables are  best  when  they  are  so  cheap  as  to  enable  the  artisan  to  eat 
them.     Very  early  peas,  or  very  early  potatoes — that  is,  peas  or  po- 


il4  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

tatoes  raised  by  artificial  means — may  be  vabjed  as  great  rarities,  but 
for  nothing  else.  We  may  assert  the  same  thing  of  nearly  all  other 
vegetables.  Sea  kale  and  early  rhubarb  are,  perhaps,  exceptions. 
All  vegetables  should  be  ripe ;  that  is,  ripe  as  vegetables ;  otherwise, 
like  fruits,  they  are  bad  tasted  and  unwholesome.  To  eat  peas  or 
potatoes  in  perfection,  you  must  eat  them  not  much  before  Mid- 
summer. 

402.  With  regard  to  the  quality  of  vegetables,  the  middle  size  are 
to  be  preferred  to  the  very  large.  Green  vegetables,  such  as  savoys, 
cabbages,  cauliflowers,  &,c.,  should  be  eaten  fresh,  before  the  life  \s 
out  of  them.  When  once  dead,  they  are  good  for  nothing  but  the 
dunghill.  This  description  of  vegetables  will  live  a  long  time  after 
they  are  cut,  but  the  fresher  they  are  the  better.  Any  one  may  easily 
see  if  they  have  been  kept  too  long.  There  are  two  ways  of  sending 
peas  to  market :  the  one  is,  by  packing  them  in  sacks,  where  they  fre- 
quently become  heated,  and,  of  course,  in  a  great  measure  spoilt.  The 
other  is,  by  sending  them  in  sieves,  which  is  by  far  the  best  way,  but, 
being  somewhat  more  expensive,  sieve  peas  fetch  a  higher  price  than 
sack  peas. 

403.  Greens,  roots,  salads,  &c.  &c.,  when  they  have  lost  their  fresh- 
ness by  long  keeping,  may  be  refreshed  a  little  by  putting  them  in 
cold  spring  water  for  an  hour  or  two  before  they  are  dressed  ;  but  this 
process  will  not  make  them  equal  to  those  which  are  gathered  just  be- 
fore they  are  boiled. 

404.  The  following  remarks,  by  a  writer  in  the  Edin.  Encyclo.  on 
this  subject,  are  very  just,  and  well  worth  the  perusal : — "  Most  vege- 
tables, being  more  or  less  succulent,  require  their  full  proportion  of 
fluids  for  retaining  that  state  of  crispness  and  plumpness  which  they 
have  when  growing.  On  being  cut  or  gathered,  the  exhalation  from 
their  surface  continues,  while,  from  the  open  vessels  of  the  cut  sur^ 
face,  there  is  often  great  exudation  or  evaporation,  and  thus  their  na* 
tural  moisture  is  diminished,  the  tender  leaves  become  flaccid,  and 
the  thicker  masses,  or  roots,  lose  their  plumpness.  This  is  not  only 
less  pleasant  to  the  eye,  but  is  a  real  injury  to  the  nutritious  powers 
of  the  vegetable  ;  for  in  this  flaccid  and  shrivelled  state  its  fibres  are 
less  divided  in  chewing,  and  the  water  which  exists  in  vegetable  sub- 
stances in  the  form  of  their  respective  natural  juices,  is  directly 
nutritious.  The  first  care,  therefore,  in  the  preservation  of  succulent 
vegetables  is,  to  prevent  them  from  losing  their  natural  moisture." 

405.  To  preserve  colour,  or  give  colour,  in  cookery,  many  good 
dishes  are  spoilt.  This  is  a  great  folly.  Taste,  nourishment,  and 
digestibility,  ought  to  be  th^  only  considerations  in  the  dres&ing  of 
food. 

406.  When  vegetables  are  quite  fresh  gathered,  they  requirr  much 
less  boiling  than  those  that  have  been  kept.  According  to  Xitch- 
iner,  fresh  vegetables  are  done  in  one-third  less  time  than  stal^ 

407.  Strong-scented  vegetables,  we  need  scarcely  say,  ougb*  to  be 
kept  apart.  If  onions,  leeks?,  and  celery,  are  laid  amongst  suc^  r^«r.- 
cate  things  as  cauliflowers,  they  will  spoil  in  a  very  short  time 


DRESSING     VEGETABLES.  115 

408  Succulent  vegetables,  such  as  cabbages,  and  all  sorts  of  greens, 
are  best  preserved  in  a  cool,  damp,  and  shady  place.  Potatoes,  tur- 
nips, carrots,  and  similar  roots,  intended  to  be  stored  up,  should  never, 
on  any  account,  be  cleaned  from  the  earth  adhering  to  them,  till 
they  are  to  be  dressed.  Never  buy  washed  potatoes,  &.c.  from  your 
shopkeeper;  have  them  with  the  soil  about  them,  and  wash  them 
just  before  they  are  boiled. 

409.  As  the  action  of  frost  destroys  the  life  of  vegetables,  and 
causes  them  speedily  to  rot,  and  as  the  air  also  injures  them,  all  roota 
should  be  protected  by  laying  them  in  heaps,  burying  them  in  sand  or 
eartli,  and  covering  them  with  straw  or  mats.  There  are,  however, 
some  sorts  of  winter  greens,  such  as  savoys,  &c.,  which  are  made 
much  better  and  more  tender  by  frost. 

PARTICULAR   DIRECTIONS   FOR  DRESSING   VEGE- 
TABLES. 

410.  Cauliflowers. — Take  off  the  outer  leaves;  round  such  as  are 
young,  leave  just  one  leaf;  put  them  with  some  salt  into  boiling  wa- 
ter; boil  according  to  size,  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes;  try  the 
Btalk  with  a  fork  ;  when  the  stalk  feels  tender,  and  the  fork  is  easily 
withdrawn,  the  flower  is  done ;  take  up  instantly,  with  a  wire  ladle. 
Both  brocoli  and  cauliflower,  unless  boiled  till  they  are  tender,  are 
neither  pleasant  to  the  taste,  nor  wholesome  to  the  body ;  but  over- 
boiling will  break  and  spoil  them.     Sauce,  melted  butter. 

411.  Brocoli. — Choose  close  firm  heads,  nearly  of  a  size.  Put 
them  into  boiling  water  with  salt;  allow  them  plenty  of  room  in  boil- 
ing, or  they  will  break  ;  and  boil  them  fast,  or  they  will  lose  their  co- 
lour. They  will  take  from  ten  minutes  to  half  an  hour,  according  to 
the  size  of  the  heads.  When  the  stalks  are  tender,  which  you  can 
know  by  putting  a  fork  up  the  middle  of  the  stalk,  they  are  done. 
Take  them  up  with  a  wire  ladle,  that  the  water  may  run  off  without 
bruising  the  heads.  Serve  on  a  buttered  toast.  Sauce,  melted 
butter. 

412.  Cabbage.— LsiYge  full-grown  cabbage  and  savoys  will  take 
half  an  hour  or  more  in  boiling.  Strip  all  the  outside  leaves  till  you 
come  to  the  white  quick  grown  ones;  then  shave  the  stocks  of  the 
leaves  that  are  left  on,  and  score  the  stalk  a  little  way  up.  Drain 
them  carefully  when  boiled,  and  serve  them  on  a  drainer. 

413.  Young  Coleioorts  and  Sprouts — Do  not  be  too  saving  in 
trimming  sprouts,  as  harsh  or  bad  leaves  will  spoil  a  whole  dish. 
They  will  take  from  ten  minutes  to  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  boiling. 
Be  careful  in  draining,  so  as  not  to  spoil  the  shape  of  the  heads. 

Cold  cabbage  may  be  fried  and  served  with  fried  beef.  It  will  re- 
quire a  little  bit  of  butter,  a  little  good  gravy,  and  a  little  pepper  and 
salt.  Shake  it  about  well,  and  let  it  remain  no  longer  in  the  pan 
than  is  necessary  to  make  it  hot  through. 

414.  Red  Cabbage. — Thi^  is  sometimes  stewed,  for  eating  with 
bouilli  beef.     Take  a  small  red  firm  cabbage ;  wash,  pick,  and  cut  it 


116  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

in  slices  half  an  inch  thick;  then  pick  it  to  pi+}ces  leaf  by  leaf.  Make 
half  a  pint  of  melted  butter,  in  5  saucepan  large  enough  to  contain 
the  whole.  Shake  the  cabbage  from  the  water  that  hangs  about  it, 
and  put  it  to  the  melted  butter,  with  a  tea-cup  full  of  good  gravy,  an 
onion,  sliced,  and  pepper,  salt,  and  cayenne.  Let  it  stew  half  an  hour 
or  more,  keeping  the  saucepan  close  shut..  When  quite  tender,  add 
a  glass  (jf  vinegar;  let  it  just  boil  up;  then  serve. 

415.  Spinach.  —  Pick  leaf  by  leaf,  wash  it  in  three  waters,  put  a 
little  salt  in  the  boiling  water,  boil  it  very  quickly,  and  keep  it  under 
the  water;  seven  or  eight  minutes  will  be  sufficient  to  boil  it;  strain 
it  on  the  back  of  a  sieve,  and  press  it  as  dry  as  possible  between  two 
plates ;  spread  it  on  a  dish,  and  score  it  crossways,  in  squares  of  an 
inch  and  a  half,  or  two  inches.  Spinach  is  often  served  with  poached 
eggs  and  buttered  toast,  or  slices  of  fried  bread.  It  is  sometimes 
etev^ed  in  the  following  manner: — When  it  has  boiled  five  minutes, 
strain  and  press  it,  and  put  it  in  a  small  stew-pan,  the  bottom  just 
covered  with  rich  boiling  gravy;  add  a  bit  of  butter,  a  little  pepper, 
ealt  and  nutmeg,  and  two  table-spoonsful  of  cream;  stew  it  five 
minutes. 

416.  Vegetable  Marroio  or  Gourd.  —  Gather  the  fruit  when  the 
size  of  an  egg ;  put  it  into  boiling  water,  v/ith  a  little  salt ;  boil  it 
until  it  is  tender,  which  will  be  in  about  half  an  hour;  cut  it  in  siicea 
half  an  inch  thick;  lay  it  on  buttered  toast;  sprinkle  it  with  pepper 
and  salt;  pour  melted  butter  over  it.  If  the  fruit  has  seeds  in  it,  the 
seedy  part  must  be  scooped  out,  but  they  are  not  so  good  in  this  state. 
The  fruit  may  be  cut  in  slices  raw,  and  fried  in  butter,  and  served 
with  melted  butter  and  vinegar. 

417.  Turnips.  —  Put  them  into  boiling  water,  with  a  little  salt; 
when  tender,  take  them  up  and  drain  the  water  from  them  ;  they 
will  take  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour  boiling.  If  for  mashing,  boil 
them  a  little  longer.  If  they  are  lumpy  or  Stringy,  rub  them  through 
a  colander,  then  put  them  into  the  saucepan,  with  an  ounce  of  butler, 
a.  spoonful  of  cream,  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  stir  them  well  till  the 
butter  is  melted,  and  the  whole  well  mixed. 

418.  Green  Peas.  — Peas  do  not  require  much  wmter  to  boil  them 
in.  Before  you  put  the  peas  into  the  boiling  water,  throw  in  a  lump 
of  sugar  aruj  a  little  salt;  boil  a  few  tops  of  mint  with  them.  If  they 
are  young  and  fresh,  they  will  not  take  more  than  ten  minutes  to  a 
quarter  of  an  hour;  if  not  very  young,  they  will  require  from  twenty 
minutes  to  half  an  hour.  Chop  up  the  mint  to  garnish  ;  stir  a  lump 
of  butter  with  them  in  the  dish,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt. 

419.  To  stew  Peas. — Young  peas  are  best  for  this  purpose  ;  but 
stewing  is  the  best  way  of  preparing  old  ones.  To  a  quart  of  peas 
allow  a  quart  of  gravy ;  put  them  in  when  the  gravy  boils,  with  three 
lumps  of  sugar,  and  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  stew  till  the  peas  are 
quite  tender,  then  thicken  with  a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour.  They 
may  be  stewed  without  gravy  ;  thus,  tp  a  quart  of  peas  allow  a  let-  - 
tuce,  two  or  three  tops  of  mint,  and  an  onion,  cut  up  and  washed  ;  the 
water  that  hangs  round  the  lettuce  will  be  sufficient;  add  pepper. 


DUE  SSTNG     VEGETABLES.  117 

salt,  and  f^uo-nr,  as  aliove  ;  stew  vo.ry  ^rpntly  for  two  hours  ;  then  beat 
up  an  ffjfo-,  nnd  stir  in  with  an  ounce  of  butter. 

420.  Carrolfi. — Wa?h  them  well  be(bro  you  put  them  into  the  pot. 
Thoy  are  best  boiled  with  meat  which  they  do  not  injure.  If  they 
are  youn^  they  will  boil  in  twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour;  large 
old  ones  will  take  two  hours  to  boil  them  tender;  do  not  quarter  car- 
rots to  boil — it  renders  them  tasteless.  If  they  are  young-,  leave  on  a 
little  of  the  top,  and  rub  them  with  a  coarse  cloth;  old  ones  are  best 
rubbed  after  thoy  are  boiled;  the  skin  comes  from  them  more  easily. 
Never  scrape  carrots — if  they  are  rough,  brush  them.  Sauce,  melted 
Iwitter. 

421.  Windsor  Beans.  — Young  beans  are  best  when  the  eyes  are 
of  a  green  colour;  when  the  eyes  are  dark,  they  are  old  and  eat 
strong;  young  beans  will  boil  from  twenty  minutes  to  half  an  hour. 
Put  them  into  plenty  of  boiling  water,  and  a  spoonful  of  salt;  if  yon 
boil  them  after  they  become  tender,  the  skins  v,/ill  shrivel;  boil  a 
large  bunch  of  parsley  with  them  ;  ciiop  some  for  parsley  and  butter. 
Stir  a  lump  of  butter  with  them,  and  put  a  little  parsley  in  the  dish 
for  garnish. 

422.  French  or  Kidney  Beans. — The  smooth  or  dv,7arf  beans  come 
in  earliest,  but  the  scarlet  runners  are  considered  the  best ;  choose 
them  young  and  nearlyof  a  size,  top  and  tail  them,  slit  them  down 
the  middle  and  cut  across.  If  they  are  old,  take  the  skin  from  each 
side;  put  them  in  boiling  water  with  some  salt;  boil  them  fast  from 
ten  minutes  to  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  stir  with  them  a  lump  of  butter. 
Sauce,  melted  butter. 

423.  Harricot  Beans  are  the  seeds  of  French  beans,  full  grown ; 
they  are  sometimes  called  colly  beans.  Stew  them  in  gravy,  thickened 
with  flour  and  cream,  or  they  may  be  fried  in  butter  ;  stir  in  a  lump 
of  butler  when  in  the  dish,  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg,  then  put 
in  some  gravy. 

424.  Jerusalem  Artichokes, — Scrub  them  clean,  and  put  them  into 
tiie  pot  with  cold  water;  throw  in  a  handful  of  salt,  do  not  let  them 
be  covered  with  water,  and  leave  oft  the  lid;  they  take  about  the 
same  time  boiling  as  potatoes.  When  they  are  tender  they  are  done; 
drain  them  and  peel  them.  Keep  them  as  hot  as  possible;  they  may 
be  kt'pt  hot  by  putting  them  in  a'dish  over  another  di^h  in  which  is 
i)ot  water.      Sauce,  melted  btitter  and  vinegar,  or  good  thick  gravy. 

425.  Aspara.frus.  —  Scrape  the  stalks  clean;  tie  them  in  bundles 
with  bass,  put  them  in  boiling  water  with  a  little  salt  in  it  ;  a  tin. 
saucepan  is  best.  If  they  are  fresh,  they  will  be  done  in  ten  or 
/.v(.'lve  minutes;  if  they  are  not  fresh,  they  will  take  a  little  longer. 
Take  up  the  niomf^nt  they  are  tender,  otherwise  the  heads  will  be 
broken,  the  flavour  spoilt,  and  the  colour  spoilt;  take  them  up  very 
carefully  with  a  slice,  cut  the  bass,  just  dip  some  toasted  bread  in  the 
liquor  in  which  the  asparagus  has  been  boiled,  put  it  on  a  drainer 
with  a  little  melted  butter,  and  the  heads  of  the  asparagus  should  be 
.aid  inwards  round  the  dish;  or  they  may  be  laid  on  a  buttered  toast.- 

426.  Artichokes.  —  Soak  in  cold  water;  put  them  into  plenty  of 

10 

I 


118  THE    COMPLF.TE     COOK. 

boilinnf  water,  throw  in  a  handful  of  palt.  They  rcniiiro  an  hour  nnj 
a  half  or  two  hours  in  hoiling.  Try  them  by  pulling  a  leaf;  if  it  draw 
out  easily,  they  are  done;  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  or  serve  on  a 
vegetable  drainer.     Sauce,  melted  butter  and  vineg"ar. 

427.  Red  Beet-root. — Boil  them  whole,  put  them  in  boiling  water; 
they  require  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  three  hours  in  boiling.  If 
for  garnish,  leave  them  whole  till  wanted  for  use,  then  scrape  and  cut 
up  inlo  slices.  If  for  salads,  scrape  and  cut  in  slices  hot,  and  pour 
cold  vinegar  over  them. 

For  stewing,  boil  them  an  hour  or  more,  then  skin  and  slice  them  ; 
season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  stew  till  tender,  with  young 
onions,  in  good  gravy:  when  nearly  done,  stir  in  a  bit  of  butter  rollod 
in  flour  and  cream  :  this  is  a  pleasant  and  nourishing  dish.  They 
may  be  baked  dry  in  the  same  manner  as  potatoes,  and  eaten  with 
cold  butter,  salt,  and  pepper. 

428.  White  Beet-root.  — This  useful  and  wholesome  plant  affords 
two  very  pleasing  varieties.  The  leaves  stripped  from  thnir  large 
fibrous  stalks  resemble  spinach.  Put  in  boiling  water  and  boil  them 
very  fast;  they  take  but  a  few  minutes;  drain,  and  press  them  very 
dry.  Sauce,  melted  butter.  The  stalks  tie  in  bundles,  dress  as 
asparagus.     Sauce,  melted  butter  and  vinegar. 

429.  Herbs  to  fry  to  eat  with  liver,  or  with  rashers  and  eggs. — 
Clean  and  drain  four  handfuls  of  young  spinach,  and  two  of  young 
lettuce  leaves,  two  handfuls  of  parsley  and  one  of  young  oniong 
chopped  small ;  set  them  over  the  fire  in  a  stew-pan  ;  put  one  ounce 
of  butter  and  some  pepper  and  salt ;  close  the  pan  up  and  shake  it 
well,  and  when  it  boils,  set  it  on  the  hob  or  stove  to  simmer  slowly 
till  the  herbs  are  tender.  Serve  them  on  a  dish  with  the  liver,  or 
rashers  and  eg^^ ;  lay  them  on  the  herb.^. 

430.  K(de^  Sea  and  Scotch.  —  This  last  kale  is  a  favourite  sort  of 
greens  for  winter  and  spring;  the  heads  should  not  be  gathered  before 
November.  These  will  take  a  quarter  of  an  hour  or  twenty  minutes 
fast  boiling;  put  them  into  boiling  water.  The  sprouts,  which  in 
spring  are  very  abundant,  will  boil  in  a  few  minutes.  Sauce,  melted 
butter. 

Sea  Kale  is  boiled  tied  up  in  bunches,  like  asparao-us.  It  is  eaten 
with  rich  gravy,  or  thick  melted  butter,  and  may  be  served  on  toasted 
bread. 

431.  Celery  makes  an  excellent  addition  to  salads;  it  also  gives  an 
agreeable  flavour  to  soups  and  sauce,  and  is  sometimes  stewed  as  an 
accompaniment  to  boiled  or  stewed  meat.  Wash  six  or  eight  heads, 
and  take  off  the  outer  leaves ;  cut  the  heads  up  in  bits  three  or  four 
inches  long.  Stew  them  till  tender  in  half  a  pint  of  veal  broth,  or 
white  gravy;  then  add  two  spoonsful  of  cream  and  an  ounce  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg,  and  simmer  the 
whole  together.  The  leaves  will  do  to  flavour  soup  that  is  to  be 
strained. 

'.  432.  Mushrooms. — The  large  flap  mushrooms  are  excellent  broiled. 
Have  a  very  clear  fire;  make  the  bars  of  the  gridiron  very  clean,  and 


DRESSING      VEGETABLES.  119 

rub  them  with  rmiUon  suet  to  prevent  them  from  sticking- ;  a  few 
minutes  will  broil  them.  When  they  stearn  but,  sprinkle  them  with 
pepper  and  salt;  have  ready  a  very  hot  dish,  and  when  thoy  are  taken 
up,  lay  a  bit  or  two  of  butter  under  and  over  each.  To  stew  theni, 
put  them  in  a  small  saucepan  with  pepper  and  salt,  a  bit  of  butter  and 
a  spoonful  or  two  of  ^ravy  of  roast  meat  or  cream  ;  shake  them  about, 
and  when  they  boil  they  are  done. 

483.  Morels  resemble  mushrooms  in  their  growth  and  many  other 
respects,  and  are  usually  dressed  in  the  same  manner.  It  is  not 
possible,  however,  to  make  catsup  from  them,  which  shows  that  they 
do  not  possess  the  same  qualities  as  mushrooms.  For  a  stew  or  ragout 
of  morels,  take  off  their  stalks;  split  them,  if  large,  into  two  or  three 
pieces ;  wash  them  and  put  them  into  a  basin  of  warm  water,  and 
cleanse  them  from  the  sand,  &c. ;  then  blanch,  drain  and  put  them 
into  a  stew-pan,  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  some  lemon  juice. 
Moisten,  after  a  few  turns  in  the  stew-pan,  with  either  brown  or 
white  sauce.  There  are  various  other  modes  of  dressing-  them,  but 
as  morels  are  not  much  eaten  in  this  country,  the  above  may  suffice. 
Morels  are  of  a  higher  and  finer  flavour  in  Eastern  countries  tlian 
here. 

434.  Truffles. — These  are  a  very  curious  description  of  vegetables; 
they  grow  under  ground,  no  part  of  the  plants  ever  being  seen  on  the 
surface.  It  is  like  the  mushroom  kind,  a  species  of  fungus,  and  is 
propagated  by  seed  which  is  nurtured  by  the  decaying  of  the  old 
plant.  They  are  found  about  ten  inches  below  the  surface  of  the 
earth,  dogs  being  trained  to  discover  them  by  their  scent.  The  truffle 
lias  a  very  rich,  tart,  and  high  flavour  when  fresh  and  in  season,  but 
loses  it  when  dried,  or  out  of  season.  They  are  not  very  common  in 
America,  but  they  are  found  in  great  quantities  in  France  and  Italy, 
A  writer  in  Rees'sCyclopa)dia  informs  us,  that  "  truffles  are  generally 
in  seed  about  August,  when  they  are  of  a  fine  high  flavour  and  agree- 
able smell;  continue  good  till  the  beginning  of  winter,  and  sometimes 
as  late  as  March ;  but  those  gathered  between  March  and  July  are 
Sinn II,  white,  and  of  a  poor  flavour.  The  same  authority,  in  the  same 
article,  intimates  that  truffles  are  tenderest  and  best  in  spring,  though 
easiest  found  in  autunm ;  the  wot  swelling  them  and  the  thunder  and 
lightning  disposing  them  to  throw  out  their  scents:  hence  by  the 
ancients  they  were  called  thund*er-roots.  Hogs  are  fond  of  them ; 
hence  the  common  people  call  them  swine-bread."  It  is  now,  the 
editor  may  observe,  a  well-established  fact,  that  truffles  are  not  good 
after  March,  or  before  August.  They  require  a  great  deal  of  wash- 
ing and  brushing,  in  several  waters,  before  they  can  be  applied  to  culi- 
nary purposes.  When  fresh  and  fine  they  are  very  rich,  and  are  a 
very  delicious  addition  to  some  dishes.  They  may  be,  and  frequently 
are,  stewed  like  mushrooms,  and  prepared  in  other  ways,  and  eaten 
by  themselves. 

435.  Cucumbers  may  be  stewed  in  the  same  way  as  celery,  with 
the  addition  of  some  sliced  onions;  or  the  cucumbers  and  onions Inay 


120  THE     COMPLETE    COOK. 

be  fii'rit  flouivd  and  fried  in  butter;  then  add  the  gravy,  and  stew  til) 
tender;  sknn  oft'  the  iat. 

436.  Parsnips. — Ch;an  and  dress  just  the  same  as  carruts,  they 
require  boihn^  from  one  hour  to  two,  accordini^  to  their  size  and 
freshness;  they  should  be  drained  well,  and  set  on  the  hob  in  a  dry 
saucepan  to  steam ;  they  are  sometimes  mashed  with  butter,  pepper, 
salt,  and  cream,  or  milk,  the  same  as  turnips;  they  are  eaten  alone, 
or  with  salt  beef  or  salt  pork.     {Sauce,  melted  butter  and  vhiegar. 


POTATOES. 

437.  In  our  directions  for  dressing  vegetables,  we  speak  lastly  of 
potatoes — not  because  the  cooking  of  this  e very-day  food  is  of  the 
least  importance,  but  because,  on  the  contrary,  it  is  of  the  greatest. 
There  are  few  persons,  simple  as  the  process  may  appear  to  be,  who 
can  cook  potatoes  well  with  certainty.  Potatoes  from  the  same 
ground,  and  of  the  same  kind,  dressed  by  the  same  cook,  may  come 
to  table  one  day  palatable  and  nutritious,  and  the  next  tiie  very  re- 
verse of  these  qualities.  How  does  this  happen  %  The  cook  acts 
upon  no  principle.  By  accident  the  potatoes  may  be  boiled  well,  and 
by  accident  they  may  be  boiled  bad  :  in  one  word,  the  boiling  of 
potatoes  is,  with  the  generality  of  cooks,  all  chance  work.  A  friend 
of  ours,  Mr.  John  Barker,  the  attorney,  no  mean  judge  in  such  mat- 
ters, always  averred,  that  a  woman  who  could  boil  potatoes  and  melt 
butler  well^  was  a  good  cook ;  he  never  requires  any  other  proof  of 
the  capabilities  of  a  cook.  The  fact  is,  those  who  thoroughly  under- 
stand the  elements  of  any  art  or  science,  find  little  or  no  difficulty  in 
what  are  called  the  higher  branches.  It  is  for  this  reason  that  we 
have,  in  our  little  work,  dwelt  so  much  upon  elementary  principles, 
in  preference  to  filling  it  up  with  long  receipts,  which  every  body 
may  obtain,  but  which  do  not  teach  any  principle  of  the  art  of  cookery. 
Dr.  Kitchiner  observes,  that  "  the  vegetable  kingdom  affords  no  food 
more  wholesome,  more  easily  procured,  easily  prepared,  and  less  ex- 
pensive, than  the  potatoe."  This  is  perfectly  true,  and  yet  how  few 
are  there  that  can  boil  potatoes  properly !  In  Ireland,  as  every  body 
knows,  potatoes  constitute  almost  entirely  the  food  of  the  great  mass 
of  the  people ;  in  Ireland,  therefore,  necessity  must  have  taught  the 
people  the  best  mode  of  cooking  them.  Their  process  is  this:  the 
potatoes,  unpeeled,  that  is  with  their  jackets  on,  after  being  washed, 
are  put  into  a  cast-iron  pot  of  cold  water,  which  is  placed  on  the  fire. 
When  the  water  boils,  a  small  quantity  of  cold  water  is  put  into  the 
pot  to  check  the  boiling;  this  is  once  or  twice  repeated.  When  the 
potatoes  are  done,  or  nearly  done,  the  water  is  poured  away  from  the 
potatoes,  which  are  again  subjected  to  the  fire  to  let  the  steam  evapo- 
rate, and  make  the  potatoes  mealy.  They  are  then  served  up  in  the 
usual  way,  (we  are  speaking  of  the  tables  of  the  middling  class(!s,) 
and  each  person  takes  as  many  potatoes  as  he  chooses;  he  peels  thenj, 
depositing  the  skins  by  the  side  of  hi.'^  plate.     In  the  course  of  the 


POTATOES.  121 

dinner  the  potatoes  on  the  table  will  become  cold,  when  a  fresh  supply 
is  ordered,  and  when  furnished,  the  host  calls  out  to  his  guest,  "a  hot 
putaloe,  Sir."  Before  the  dinner  is  finished,  you  will  have  two  or 
three  supplies  of  hot  potatoes,  and  the  last,  though  all  from  the  same 
pot,  are  to  our  taste  better  than  the  first.  They  are  all  the  time  kept 
«n  the  fire;  the  action  of  the  heat  completely  evaporates  the  moisture 
from  the  potatoes,  aud  those  at  the  bottom  of  the  iron  pot  become  par- 
tially roasted.  Such  is  the  Irish  mode  of  dressing  potatoes,  and  if  we 
could  reconcile  ourselves  to  the  "  bother''^  of  peeling  them,  and  to  the 
disagreeable  appearance  of  a  table-cloth  nearly  covered  with  potatoe 
skins,  there  is  no  doubt  that  we  should  consider  the  Irish  way  of 
dressing  and  serving  potatoes  the  best.  The  generality  of  modern 
cookery  books  recommend  the  dressing  of  potatoes  with  their  skfns 
on,  like  the  Irish,  but  direct  that  they  should  be  peeled  before  sent  to 
the  table;  this  mode  spoils  the  potatoes  by  cooling  them;  when  so 
dressed,  they  should  be  eaten  hot.  We  recommend  that  potatoes,  ex- 
cepting when  young,  for  the  table,  should  be  always  pared,  carefully 
pared,  before  they  are  boiled :  that  they  should  be  put  into  cold  water 
with  salt,  and  boiled  quickly,  till  they  are  nearly  done ;  that  then  the 
water  should  be  poured  off,  and  the  potatoes  again  subjected  to  the 
fire,  covered  with  a  close  lid,  till  they  are  quite  done,  when  the  lid 
ought  to  be  removed,  and  the  moisture  evaporated.  They  may  be 
then  mashed,  or  served  whole.  The  cook  should  take  care  to  have 
potatoes  pretty  much  of  an  equal  size,  or,  if  this  be  not  practicable, 
she  should  divide  the  large  ones.  We  ought,  however,  to  add,  with 
regard  to  peeling  potatoes,  that  most  people  very  fond  of  this  root 
insist  upon  it,  that  you  do  not  get  the  true  flavour  if  you  do  not  dress 
it  wiih  the  skin  on.  Let  it  be  always  remembered,  that- potatoes  differ 
very  much  in  quality,  and  that  no  cook  can  dress  a  bad  potatoe  into  a 
good  one. 

This  brings  us  to  the  choice  of  potatoes.  We  can  lay  down  no 
rule,  notwithstanding  what  former  writers  have  said,  for  the  choice 
of  potatoes.  As  it  is  with  pudding,  so  it  is  with  potatoes — the  proof 
is  in  the  eating.  The  dealers  in  nuts  say,  "  Crack  and  try  before  you 
buy,"  and  we  say  as  regards  potatoes.  Boil  and  try  before  you  buy; 
tiie  expenditure  of  one  half-penny  will  enable  you  to  do  this.  Dr. 
Kitchiner  says,  that  "reddish  coloured  potatoes  are  belter  than  the 
white,  but  the  yellowish  ones  are  the  best."  The  colour  of  a  potatoe 
is  no  criterion  of  its  goodness  or  badness;  there  are  good  of  all 
colours,  and  there  are  bad  of  all  colours.  You  should  never  buy 
washed  potatoes ;  they  should  never  be  washed  till  they  are  to  be 
used,  and  as  little  as  possible  exposed  to  the  open  air.  When  frost- 
bitten, they  are  good  for  nothing  as  regards  culinary  purposes.  There 
are  various  directions  given  by  writers  for  dressing  potatoes,  some  of 
which  we  subjoin.  Kitchiner  says,  that  "most  boiled  things  are 
spoiled  by  having  too  little  water;  but  potatoes  are  often  spoiled  by 
too  much."  It  is  sufficient  to  just  cover  them  with  water.  Potatoes 
may  be  boiled  well  according  to  either  of  the  subjoined  methods;  but 
after  trying  all,  we  prefer  our  own, 
10 '^ 


122  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

438.  PoluLoes  to  boil.  —To  boil,  ch(X)se  them  ail  of  a  size,  that  tlioy 
may  be  all  done  together;  put  them  on  with  cold  water,  and  a  spoon- 
ful of  salt,  in  a  eaucepan  larger  than  they  require,  without  the  lid, , 
and  with  not  quite  water  enough  to  cover  them.  When  they  boil, , 
put  in  a  little  cold  water;  do  this  twice  or  three  times  as  they  come  to 
boil.  V/hen  a  fork  will  easily  go  into  them,  strain  off,  and  put  the 
saucepan  on  the  hob  for  two  minutes,  for  the  steam  to  evaporate.  If 
done  too  soon,  fold  a  coarse  cloth  and  cover  them  up  immediately,  to 
keep  tliem  hot  and  mealy ;  but  tliey  are  best  served  immediately  they 
are  done. 

Another  Method.  The  best  method  in  the  opinion  of  some,  is  to 
wash  the  potatoes  quite  clean  and  put  them  in  the  saucepan  with  a 
large  table-spoonful  of  salt,  and  cover  them  with  water ;  but  when 
they  boil  up,  pour  three  parts  of  the  water  away,  put  the  lid  on  the 
saucepan,  and  set  them  where  they  will  boil,  but  not  very  fast.  Ob- 
serve if  the  skins  are  cracked;  if  not,  carefully  crack  tliera  with  a 
fork  to  let  the  watery  matter  contained  in  the  potatoe  out;  this  you 
cannot  do  until  they  are  nearly  done.  When  they  are  boiled  sutfi- 
ciently,  drain  all  the  water  away;  take  off  the  lid,  and  hold  them 
over  the  lire  for  a  minute,  giving  them  a  gentle  shake.  They  are 
best  served  immediately,  while  they  are  dry  and  hot.  This  method 
is  good  in  a  small  family,  but  where  there  are  a  great  many  to  dine 
it  would  be  best  to  pare  them,  and  take  out  all  the  eyes  with  the  point 
of  your  knife;  wash  them,  put  them  in  the  saucepan  witli  a  large 
table-spoonful  of  salt,  cover  them  with  water,  and  when  they  boil,  pour 
three  parts  of  the  water  off,  close  the  saucepan,  and  let  them  boil 
gently  ;  when  done,  dry  them  over  the  fire.  As  potatoes  should  be 
always  served  hot,  by  this  method  you  lose  no  time  in  taking  off"  the 
skins. 

489.  Potatoes  to  steam. — Let  the  potatoes  be  washed,  and  put  into 
the  steamer,  when  the  water  boils  in  the  saucepan  beneath  ;  they 
will  take  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  steam,  and  should  be 
taken  up  as  soon  as  done,  or  they  become  watery. 

440.  T'o  roast. — Wash  and  dry  potatoes  all  of  a  size ;  put  them  in 
a  dutch  oven,  or  cheese  toaster,  or  in  the  oven  by  the  side  of  the  lire; 
take  care  that  the  heat  is  not  too  great,  or  they  will  burn  before  they 
are  baked  through.  They  may  be  parboiled  lirst;  in  that  case  they 
will  take  less  time  in  biking. 

441.  Potatoes  mashed. — When  the  potatoes  are  thoroughly  boiled 
or  steamed,  drain  them  dry,  pick  out  every  speck,  and  while  hot  rub 
them  through  a  colander  into  a  clean  saucepan,  in  which  warm  them, 
stirring  in  half  an  ounce  or  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  a  table-spoonful 
of  milk,  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt;  do  not  make  them  too  wet; 
then  put  them  into  tiie  scallop  shells,  or  padding  shells  buttered,  the 
tops  washed  over  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  browned  in  an  oven 
by  the  side  of  the  lire ;  but  best  in  a  dutch  oven.  Some  people  con- 
sider a  mixture  of  boiled  onions  an  improvement. 

442.  Potatoes  roasted  under  meat.  —  Parboil  large  potatoes;  peel 
them,  and  put  them  m  nu  earthen  di^h,  or  daiall  tin  pan,  under  meat 


that  is  roastinw.  They  will  partake  of  the  basting,  sniting,  und  flour- 
ing-, that  are  put  on  the  meat;  when  one  side  is  brown,  turn  and 
brown  the  other.  They  may  be  baked  in  the  same  manner  in  an  oven. 
44;i  Potatoes  fried  or  broiled.  —  Cut  cold  potatoes  into  slices  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  fry  them  brown  in  a  clean  drippino-pan. 
Some  people  like  them  shaved  in  little  thin  piece?,  sprinkled  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  stirred  about  in  the  frying-pan  till  hot  through.  They 
are  very  good  fried  whole ;  first  dip  them  in  egg  and  roll  them  in 
bread  crumbs;  they  are  likevv'ise  very  good  broiled  on  a  gridiron,  after 
being  partially  boiled.  Cold  potatoes,  which  are  generally  thrown 
away,  are  very  good  when  broiled. 

444.  Fotatoe  Bulls. — Mix  maslied  potatoes  with  a  beaten  egg,  roll 
them  in  balls  and  fry  them,  either  with  or  without  crumbs. 

445.  Potutoe  Snow. — Wash  very  clean  some  potatoes  of  a  white 
mealy  sort ;  set  them  on  in  cold  water,  and  boil  them  according  to 
the  first  direction;  when  done,  strain  the  water  from  them,  crack  the 
skins,  put  thenj  by  the  fire  until  they  are  quite  dry  and  fall  to  pieces; 
then  rub  them  through  a  wire  sieve  on  the  dish  they  are  to  be  served 
on,  and  do  not  disturb  ihern. 

SALADS. 

446.  Among  the  principal  salad  herbs  we  may  reckon  lettuce,  of 
which  the  v/hite  cos  in  summer,  and  in  winter  the  brown  Dutch  cos 
and  brown  cos,  are  the  best;  endive,  of  which  the  curled  leaf  is  pre- 
ferred; corn-salad  and  water-cress,  both  of  which  are  preferred  when 
the  leaves  have  a  brovvnii-h  cast;  mustard  and  cress,  or  small  salad- 
ing,  of  which  a  succession  may  bo  kept  up  through  the  spring  months ; 
celery,  young,  crisp,  and  well  blanched.  All  or  any  of  these  may  be 
united  in  the  composition  of  a  salad.  Cucumbers,  eitlier  sliced  by 
themselves,  or  mixed  with  other  articles.  Radishes  give  a  lively 
appearance,  by  way  of  garnish,  to  a  salad,  but  are  not  themselves 
improved  by  dressing.  Red-beet  also  is  much  in  request  for  winter 
salads,  especially  mijs,ed  with  endive.  Young  onions  or  escalions  are 
liked  by  many  people,  but  much  disliked  by  others;  therefore  they 
should  not  be  mixed  in  the  bowl,  but  sent  up  on  a  small  dish  by  them- 
selves. Sorrel  gives  a  pleasing  acid  taste;  and  pimpernel,  or  burnet, 
gives  a  flavour  resembling  that  of  cucumber.  Dandelion,  if  well 
grown  and  well  blanched  with  a  tile  or  slate  (in  the  same  manner  as 
endive),  is  equally  good  and  wholesome. 

Let  the  mgredients  of  the  salad  be  well  picked,  and  washed  and 
dried  ;  but  do  not  add  the  dressing  till  just  before  eating,  as  it  is  apt 
to  make  the  salad  flabby.  The  most  simple  way  of  dressijig  a  salad 
is,  perhaps,  the  best ;  certainly  the  most  wholesome  ;  merely  salt,  oil, 
and  vinegar,  to  taste  ;  one  table-spoonful  of  the  best  olive  oil  to  three 
of  vinegar,  is  a  good  proponion.  For  those  who  do  not  like  oil,  or 
when  it  is  nut  at  hand,  the  following  may  be  used  as  a  substitute; 
TJm^  gravy  that  has  dropped  from  roasted  meat,  good  svveet  thicK 
cream,  a  bit  of  (VcJi  butler  rubbed  up  with  fine  moist  t.ui;ai,  >r  just 


124  THE    COMPL'ETE     COOK. 

melted,  without  either  flour  or  water;  great  care  must  be  taken  in 
thus  melting'  the  butter,  or  it  will  be  apt  to  oil  or  curdle;  it  must  be 
shaken  one  way  only,  and  kept  near  the  fire  no  lono-or  than  is  neces- 
Biiry  to  dissolve  the  lumps  —  on  no  account  suffered  to  boil.  Eggs 
boiled  for  salads  require  ten  or  twelve  minutes  boiling,  and  should 
immediately  be  plunged  into  cold  water. 

\n  the  more  complicated  preparation  of  a  salad,  great  care  must  be 
taken  that  every  additional  ingredient  is  thoroughly  well  blended  be- 
fore proceeding  to  add  another. 

Prepare  the  dressings  in  the  bowl,  and  add  the  herbs  ;  after  stirring 
them  in,  take  care  that  all  the  various  colours  are  displayed.  The 
coral  of  a  lobster  or  a  crab  makes  a  beautiful  variety  with  a  lettuce, 
onion,  radish,  beet,  and  white  of  egg.  The  following  are  the  ordinary 
proportions,  but  various  tastes  will  suggest  variety  :  The  yolks  of  two 
eggs  rubbed  very  smooth  with  a  very  rich  cream  ;  if  perfectly  rubbed  ■ 
and  quite  cold,  they  will  form  a  smooth  paste  without  straining;  a 
tea-spoonful  each  of  thick  mustard,  salt,  and  powdered  loaf-sugar,  or 
a  little  cayenne  instead  of  mustard,  less  than  half  of  the  mustard  ; 
when  these  are  well  rubbed  in,  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  oil  (or 
whichever  of  its  substitutes  is  adopted),  and  then  four  spoonfuls  of  the 
best  white  wine  vinegar;  then  lay  the  herbs  lightly  on. 

Cv.cumhers  are  only  to  be  pared  and  sliced,  with  slices  of  onion, 
which  correct  their  crudity,  and  render  them  less  unwholesome;  the 
pickle  for  them  consists  of  pepper,  salt,  oil,  and  vinegar. 


VINEGARS    FLAVOURED. 

Vinegar  is  employed  in  extracting  flavours  as  well  as  spirits  and 
wine.  But  such  extracts  are  principally  used  with  salads,  or  as 
relishes  to  cold  meats,  and  in  a  few  instances  to  flavour  sauces  and 
Boups  ;  but,  in  English  cookery,  flavours  extracted  by  sherry  wine  are 
preferred  for  soup. 

447.  Vinegar  for  Salads. — Take  three  ounces  each  of  tarragon, 
chives,  eschalots,  savoury,  a  handful  of  the  tops  of  balm  and  mint,  all 
oj'y  and  pounded  ;  put  these  into  a  wide-mouthed  bottle,  with  a  gallon 
oV  the  best  vinegar,  cork  it  close  and  set  it  in  the  sun,  and  in  a  fort- 
niglit  strain  it  off',  and  press  the  herbs  to  get  out  all  the  juice;  let  it 
stand  a  day  to  settle,  and  then  strain  it  through  a  filtering  bag. 

448.  Basil  Vinegar  or  Wine.  —  Sweet  basil  is  in  perfection  about 
the  middle  of  August;  gather  the  fresh  green  leaves,  quite  free  from 
stalk,  and  before  it  flowers  ;  fill  a  wide-mouthed  bottle  with  them,  fill 
it  with  vinegar  or  wine,  and  steep  them  ten  days  ;  if  you  want  a  very 
strong  essence,  strain  the  liquor,  put  it  on  some  fresh  leaves,  and  let 
them  steep  fourteen  days  more;  strain  it  and  bottle,  cork  it  close;  it 
is  a  very  agreeable  addition  to  cold  meat,  soups,  sauces,  and  to  the 
mixture  generally  made  for  salads.  A  table-spoonful,  when  the  soup  ' 
is  ready,  impregnates  a  tureen-full  with  the  basil  and  acid  flavours  at 
a  very  little  expense,  when  fresh  basil  and   lemons  arc  very  dear. 


CATSUPS 


isr* 


The  flavour  of  other  sweet  or  savoury  herbs  may  be  preserved  in  the 
same  manuer,  by  infusing-  them  in  wme  or  vinegar. 

449.  Burnet  Vinegar  is  made  exactly  in  the  same  way  as  the 
above,  and  imparts  t[ie  flavour  of  cucumbers  so  exactly,  when  steeped 
in  vinegar,  that  the  nicest  pajato  could  not  distinfruissh  it  from  the 
fruit  itself.  This  is  a  nice  relish  to  cold  meat,  salads,  &c.  Burnet  is 
best  in  season  from  Midsummer  to  Michaelmas. 

450.  Cress  or  Celei-y  Vinegar.  —  Pour  over  a  quart  of  the  best 
vineo^ar  to  an  ounce  of  celery  or  cress  seeds,  when  dried  and  pounded  ; 
let  them  steep  ten  days,  shake  it  every  day,  then  sirain  and  bottle  in 
ijmall  bottles. 

451.  Ilorse-radish  Vinegar.  —  Pour  a  quart  of  best  vineg-ar  on 
three  ounces  of  fcraped  horse-radish,  one  drachm  of  cayenne,  and  an 
ounce  of  shred  eschalot;  let  it  stand  a  week.  This  is  very  cheap, 
and  you  have  an  excellent  relish  for  cold  beef,  salads,  &c.  Horse- 
radish is  in  perfection  in  November. 

452.  Garlic,  Onion,  or  Eschalot  Vinegar.  —  Put  and  chop  two 
ounces  of  the  root,  pour  over  them  a  quart  of  the  best  vinegar,  in  a 
Dottle,  shake  it  well  every  day  for  ten  days;  then  pour  oft"  the  clear 
hquor  into  half-pint  bottles.-  A  few  drops  of  the  garlic  will  flavour  a 
pint  of  gravy,  as  it  is  very  powerful. 

453.  Tarragon  Vinegar.  —  Fill  a  wide-mouthed  bottle  with  fresh 
gathered  tarragon  leaves.  They  should  be  gathered  on  a  dry  day, 
just  before  it  flowers,  between  Midsummer  and  Michaelmas.  Pick 
the  leaves  ofi'  the  stalks,  and  dry  them  a  little  before  the  fire;  cover 
them  with  the  best  vinegar,  and  let  them  steep  fourteen  days;  then 
strain  them  through  a  flannel  jelly-bag  till  it  is  fine,  then  pour  it  into 
half-pint  bottles,  cork  them  tight,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  place. 

454.  Elder  Flower  Vinegar  is  prepared  in  the  same  manner  aa 
above,  and  other  herbs  also. 

455.  Green  Mint  Vinegar  is  made  exactly  the  same  way,  and  tho 
same  proportions,  as  basil  vinegar.  In  housed  lamb  season,  green  mint 
is  sometimes  not  to  be  got,  it  is  then  a  welcome  substitute. 

456.  Camp  Vinegar. — Take  four  table-spoonfuls  of  soy,  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  cayenne  pepper,  six  anchovies,  bruised  and  chopped, 
walnut  pickle  a  quarter  of  a  pint,  a  clove  of  garlic  shred  fine;  steep 
the  whole  for  a  month  in  a  quart  of  the  best  vinegar,  shake  it  four  or 
five  times  a  v/eek,  strain  it  through  a  tamis,  and  put  it  in  half-pint 
bottles,  close  corked  and  sealed,  or  dipped  in  bottle  cement. 

457.  Capsicum,  Cayenne,  or  Chili  Vinegar. — Pound  fifty  fresh 
red  chiiies,  or  capsicums,  or  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cayenne  pepper; 
steep  in  a  pint  of  the  best  vinegar  foj:  a  fortnight. 


CATSUPS. 

These  rank  high,  and  deservedly  so,  amongst  the  lists  of  flavour- 
ngs,  particularly  mushroom  catsup,  with  the  directions  for  the  making 
af  which  wo  have  been  at  considerable  pains.  You  cannot  be  certain 
jf  having  it  good,   unless  you   make  it  yourself,   for   no   article  is 


126  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

more  adulterated  and  diluted  than  this  most  delicious  and  useful  i 
flavourer. 

458.  WaJmit  Catsup. — Take  three  half  sieves  of  walnut  shells, 
put  them  into  a  tub,  mix  them  up  well  wilh  common  salt,  about  a 
pound  and  a  half.     Let  them  s-tand  six  days,  frequently  beating  and  , 
washing  them;  by  this  time  the  shells  become  soft  and  pulpy;  thcat 
bv  bankinir  them  up  on  one  side  of  the  tub,  raising-  the  tub  on  the  i 
bame  side,  the  liquor  will  run  clear  off  to  the  other;  then  take  that 
liquor  out.'  The  mashing  and  banking-  maybe  repeated  as  long- ag  i 
any  liquor  runs.     The  quantity  will  be  about  three  quarts.     Simmer- 
it  in  an  iron  pot  as  loner  as  any  scum  rises;  then  add  two  ounces  of 
allspice,  two  ounces  of  ginger,  bruised,  one  ounce  of  long  pepper,  onei 
ounce  of  cloves,  with  the  above  articles;  let  it  boil  slowly  i'ov  half  aai 
hour;  whon  bottled,  take  care  that  an  equal  quantity  of  spice  goes* 
into  each  bottle;  let  the  bottles  bo  quite  filled  up,  cork  them  tight,, 
and  seal  then;  over.    Put  them  into  a  cool  and  dry  place,  for  one  year- 
before  they  are  used. 

459.  Oyster  Catsup. — Take  fine  large  fresh  oysters,  open  them, 
carefully,  and  wash  them  in  their  own  liquor,  to  take  any  particle  of 
shell  that  may  remain,  strain  the  liquor  aftor.  Pound  the  oysters  in  a 
mortar,  add  the  liquor,  and  to  every  pint  put  a  pint  of  sherry,  boil  it 
up  and  skim,  then  add  two  anchovies,  pounded,  an  ounce  of  common 
salt,  two  drachms  of  pounded  mace,  and  one  of  cayenne.  Let  it  boil; 
up,  skim  it,  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve.  Bcjttle  it  when  cold,  and  seal! 
it.     What  remains  in  the  sieve  will  do  i'ov  oyster  sauce. 

460.  Cockle  and  Muscle  Catsup. — The  same  way  as  oyster  catsup. 

461.  Mushroom  Catsup. — The  juice  of  mushrooms  approaches  the 
nature  and  flavour  of  gravy  meat  more  than  other  vegetable  juices. . 
Dr.  Kitchiner  sets  a  high  value,  and  not  without  reason,  upon  goodi 
mushroom  catsup,  "  a  couple  of  quarts  of  which,"  he  says,  "  will  save: 
some  score  pounds  of  meat,  besides  a  vast  deal  of  time  and  trouble.'*' 
The  best  method  of  extracting  the  essence  of  mushrooms,  is  thatt 
which  leaves  behind  the  least  quantity  of  water.  In  all  essences,  it! 
is  quality,  not  quantity,  to  which  we  ought  to  look.  An  excess  of 
aqueous  fluid  in  essences  renders  them  less  capable  of  keeping;  while 
in  flavouring  sauces,  &.c.  a  small  quantity  is  sufllcient,  so  that  by  this- 
means  you  do  not  interfere  with  the  thickness  or  consistency  of  the 
thing  flavoured.  Mushrooms,  that  is,  field  mushrooms,  begin  to  come: 
in  about  September.  There  are  several  varieties  of  these  fungi,  and  I 
they  differ  very  much, both  in  their  wholesomeness  and  flavour.  The; 
best  and  finest  flavoured  mushrooms  are  those  whicli  grow  spontane-- 
ously  upon  rich,  dry,  old  pasture  land.  The  following  is  the  mode  of," 
making  good  mushroom  catsup,  o'r,  as  Dr.  Kitchiner  calls  it,  "  double? 
catsup,"  ' 

Take  mushrooms  of  the  right  sort,  fresh  gathered  and  full  grown, 
but  not  maggoty  or  putrescent ;  put  a  layer  of  these  at  the  bottom  of 
a  deep  earthen  pan,  and  sprinkle  them  with  salt;  then  put  another 
layer  of  mushrooms,  sprinkle  more  salt  on  them,  and  so  on  alternately, 
mushroom.-  and  salt.     Let  them  remain  two  or  three  hours,  by  which  . 


CLARIFYING.  127 

lime  the  salt  will  have  penetrated  the  mushrooms,  nnd  have  mada 
thetn  easy  to  break ;  then  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  or  break  them  well 
with  your  hands;  then  let  them  remain  in  this  state  for  two  days, not 
more,  mashing-  them  well  once  or  twice  a  day  ;  then  pour  them  into  a 
stone  jar,  and  to  each  quart  add  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  whole  black 
pepper,  and  half  an  ounce  of  allspice ;  stop  the  jar  very  close,  and  set 
it  in  a  saucepan  or  stew-pan  of  boiling  water,  and  keep  it  boiling-  for 
two  hours  at  least.  Take  out  the  jar,  and  pour  the  juice  clear  from 
the  settlings,  through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  clean  stew-pan.  Let  it  boil 
very  gently  for  half  an  hour ;  but  to  make  good  or  double  catsup,  it 
should  boil  gently  till  the  mushroom  juice  is  reduced  to  half  the  quan- 
tity, or,  in  other  words,  till  the  more  aqueous  part  is  evaporated  ;  then 
skim  it  well,  and  pour  it  into  a  clean  dry  jar  or  jug-;  cover  it  close, 
and  let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place  till  next  day,  then  pour  it  off  as  gently 
as  possible  (so  as  not  to  disturb  the  settlings  at  the  bottom  of  the  jug,) 
through  a  tamis,  or  thick  flannel  bag,  till  it  is  perfectly  clear;  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  good  unflavoured  spirits  (brandy  is  dear  and  not  a 
whit  better  than  common  spirits  of  wine  of  equal  strength)  to  each 
pint  of  catsup,  and  let  it  stand  as  before.  A  fresh  sediment  will  be 
deposited,  from  which  the  catsup  is  to  be  poured  off  gently,  and  bot- 
tled in  half  pints,  washed  with  spirit.  Small  bottles  are  best,  as  they 
are  sooner  used,  and  the  catsup,  if  uncorked  often,  is  apt  to  spoil.  The 
cork  of  each  bottle  ought  to  be  sealed  or  dipped  in  bottle  cement. 
Keep  it  in  a  dry  cool  place;  it  will  soon  spoil  if  kept  damp.  If  any 
pellicle  or  skin  should  appear  upon  it  when  in  the  bottle,  boil  it  up 
again  with  a  few  peppercorns.  It  is  a  question  with  us,  whether  it 
would  not  be  best  to  dispense  with  the  spice  altogether,  and  give  an 
addition  of  spirits.  When  a  number  of  articles  are  added  to  the  cat- 
sup, such  as  different  spices,  garlic,  eschalot,  anchovy,  &c.  &,c.,  the 
fiavour  of  the  mushroom  is  overpowered,  and  it  ceases  to  be,  properly 
speaking,  mushroom  catsup. 

462.  Mushroom  Catsup  witJwut  Sjrlce  is  made  thus  : — Sprinkle  a 
little  salt  over  your  mushrooms.  Three  hours  after,  mash  them;  next 
day,  strain  off  the  liquor,  and  boil  it  till  it  is  reduced  to  half.  It  will 
not  keep  long,  but  an  artificial  mushroom  bed  will  supply  sufricient 
for  this,  the  very  best  of  mushroom  catsup,  all  the  year  round. 

463.  Mushroom  Powder  may  be  made  of  the  refuse  of  the  mush- 
rooms, after  they  have  been  squeezed,  by  drying  them  well  in  a  dutch 
oven,  or  otherwise,  and  then  reducing  them  to  powder.  If  the  mush- 
rooms themselves  are  dried  and  pounded,  the  powder  will  be  much 
stronger.  Tincture  or  essence  of  mushrooms,  we  apprehend,  might 
be  niade,  by  steeping  dried  mushrooms  in  spirits. 

CLARIFYING. 

464.  Clarified  Butler. — Put  the  butter  in  a  clean  saucepan  over  a 
very  clear,  slow  fire,  and  when  it  is  melted,  carefully  skim  off  the  but- 
ter-milk, which  will  swim  on  the  top;  let  it  stand  for  a  minute  or  two 
for  the  imouritjes  to  sink  to  the  bottom,  then  pour  the  clear  butter 


128  THE    COMPLETE    COOK. 

through  a  sieve  into  a  basin,  leaving  the  sediment  at  thelxittom  of  the  ' 
pan. 

465.  Burnt  Butter. — Pat  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  into  a  fryino-- 
pan  ;  when  it  becomes  a  dark  brown  coiour,  add  a  table-spoDufnl  and 
a  half  of  good  vinegar  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Thii  is  used  lor 
sauce  to  boiled  iish  or  poached  eggs. 

466.  Oiled  Butter. — Put  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  into  a  sauce- 
pan, melt  it  gradually  till  it  comes  to  an  oil,  and  pour  it  off  quietly 
from  the  dregs.     This  will  supply  the  place  of  olive  oil. 

467.  To  clarify  Dripping. — Be  careful  that  no  cinders  or  ashes 
fall  into  thedrippmg-pan,  and  empty  the  well  before  the  meat  is  salted 
or  floured,  as  the  dripping  will  be  more  valuable.  The  NoLtiiiglinin 
ware  are  the  best  vessels  for  Ue<jping  dripping  in  ;  where  much  drip- 
ping is  made,  however,  keep  one  general  receiving  pot ;  do  not  put  \n 
seasoned  dripping,  or  dripping  of  game  and  poultry;  this  should  be 
kept  by  itself;  it  answers  very  well  to  baste  similar  articles  again,  or 
it  makes  very  good  common  crust  for  meat  pies,  or  f(ir  frying;  it  is 
not  tit  ibr  delicate  pastry.  Tiie  cook  will  tind  at  the  bottom  of  the  re- 
ceiving pot,  after  it  has  stood  a  few  days,  some  gravy  which  may  be 
useful  to  make  gravy,  and  if  not  removed  will  spoil  the  colour  of  the 
dripping  ;  then  put  the  dripping  into  a  saucepan  over  a  clear  slow  fire, 
at  a  good  distance ;  when  it  is  nearly  boiling  skim  it  well,  then  let  it 
boil,  and  immediately  put  it  aside;  when  cool,  and  a  little  settled, 
pour  it  steadily  through  a  sieve  into  the  pan ;  this  is  very  nice  drip- 
ping tor  pastry.  What  remains  may  be  put  into  the  receptacle  of 
seasoned  dripping,  or  kept  by  itself,  and  will  do  tor  basting  meat. 

In  this  manner  the  fat  that  settles  on  the  top  of  stews  and  boils  and 
soups  may  be  clarified  and  turned  to  use.  Remove  the  fat  before  you 
add  the  vegetables  or  seasoning.  Nothing  makes  a  lighter  piecrust 
than  this  sort  of  fat.  It  should  be  used  soon,  as  the  moisture  hanging 
about  it  will  turn  it  sour. 

468.  To  clarify  Suet  and  Fat. — Take  away  whatever  fat  or  suet 
that  is  not  likely  to  be  used  oft' a  loin  of  mutton,  loin  of  veal,  or  sirloin 
©f  beef.  An  inch  thickness  of  fat  may  be  taken  from  a  loin  or  neck 
of  mutton,  and  a  good  deal  of  fat  from  the  kidney  ;  then  shave  it  into 
very  thin  slices,  or  chop  it  upas  suet;  pick  out  all  veins  and  skin, 
then  put  it  into  a  stone  jir  or  saucepan,  and  set  it  in  a  slow  oven,  or 
over  a  stove  till  it  is  melted;  then  strain  it  through  a  hair  sieve  into 
jars  or  pots;  when  quite  cold,  tie  over  the  jirs.  Be  careful  not  to  put 
this  or  dripping  into  a  warm  place. 

469.  Hog's  Lard. — The  inside  fat  or  leaf  of  a  pig  should  bo  beaten 
with  a  lard-beater,  or  rolling-pin ;  then  put  it  into  a  jar  or  earthen 
pot,  in  a  large  kettle  of  boiling  water,  till  it  is  melted  ;  add  a  little 
salt  and  a  little  rosemary — the  last  may  be  left  out  if  not  preferred. 
When  melted,  pour  it  into  jars  or  bladders,  nicely  cleaned.  The  bits 
of  skins  that  are  left  are  called  crittens,  and  chopped  up  with  apples 
or  currants  to  make  fritters,  or  a  pie.  Lard  is  frequently  melted  in  a 
brass  kettle  over  a  slow  fire.     It  is  better  to  surround  it  with  water. 

470.  Clarified  Sugar  is  merely  brought  to  a  syrup  in  the  followinij 


ip.  0         PICKLES.  129 

manner: — Break  up  the  sug-ar  in  larg'e  jumps,  and  allow  a  pint  of 
water  to  every  two  pounds  of  sugar:  but  whatever  quantity  is  em- 
ployed, keep  out  a  quarter  of  a  pint  cold.  Put  tlie  sugar  and  water 
in  the  preserving  pan,  with  the  white  of  one  egs  well  beaten,  to  every 
two  pounds  of  sugar.  When  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  set  it  on  the  fire, 
and  when  it  boils  fast,  throw  in  tlie  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cold  water; 
this  is  intended  to  throw  up  ihe  scum.  When  it  boils  again,  take  the 
vessel  from  the  fire  and  let  it  stand  to  settle;  then  remove  all  scum, 
and  place  it  in  a  hair  sieve;  what  runs  through  may  be  returned  to 
the  rest:  give  it  another  boil,  and  again  settle  and  skim.  It  should 
not  be  stirred  after  the  sugar  is  dissolved  and  syrup  begins  to  warm. 
In  this  manner  sugar  is  clarified  for  jelly  which  is  to  be  put  in  glasses. 


PICKLES. 

Like  Dr.  Kitchiner,  we  are  not  fond  of  pickles.  They  are,  indeed, 
for  the  most  part,  mere  vehicles  for  taking  up  vinegar  and  spice — and 
very  unwholesome,  indigestible  vehicles  tbcy  are.  By  pounding  them, 
as  they  do  in  India,  they  are  rendered  less  indigestible.  Those  who 
are  fond  of  relishes,  and  who  are  wise  enough  not  to  gratify  their 
tastes  at  tiie  expense  of  their  stomachs,  will  find  the  various  flavoured 
vinegars,  mixed  to  each  individuars  liking,  an  excellent  substitute  for 
pickles.  . 

471.  There  are  three  methods  of  pickling;  the  most  simple  is, 
merely  to  put  the  articles  into  cold  vinegar.  The  strongest  pickling 
vinegar  of  white  wine  should  always  be  used  for  pickles;  and  for 
such  as  are  wanted  for  white  pickles,  use  distilled  vinegar,  which  is 
as  white  as  water.  This  method  we  recommend  for  all  such  vege- 
tables as,  being  hot  themselves,  do  not  require  the  addition  of  spice, 
and  such  as  do  not  require  to  be  softened  by  heat,  such  as  capsicums, 
chili,  nasturtiiHus,  button  onions,  radish-pods,  horse-radish,  garlic,  and 
eschalots.  Half  fill  the  jars  with  best  vinegar,  fill  them  up  with  the 
vegetables,  and  tie  down  immediately  with  bladder  and  leather.  One 
ridvantage  of  this  plan  is,  that  those  who  grow  nasturtiums,  radish- 
pwls,  and  so  forth,  in  their  own  gardens,  may  gather  them  from  day 
to  day  when  they  are  exactly  of  the  proper  growth.  They  are  very 
much  better  if  pickled  quite  fresh,  and  all  of  a  size,  which  can 
t^carcely  be  obtained  if  they  be  pickled  all  at  one  time.  The  onions 
should  be  dropped  in  the  vinegar  as  fast  as  peeled ;  this  secures  their 
colour.  The  iiorse-radish  should  be  scraped  a  little  outside,  and  cut 
up  in  rounds  half  an  inch  deep.  Barbaries  for  garnish  ;  gather  fine 
full  l)nnches  before  they  are  quite  ripe;  pick  away  all  bits  of  stalk 
nnd  leaf  and  injured  berries,  and  drop  them  in  cold  vinegar ;  they 
may  be  kept  in  salt  and  water,  changing  the  brine  whenever  it  begins 
lo  ferment :  but  the  vinegar  is  best. 

472.  The  second  method  of  pickling  is  that  of  heating  vinegar  and 
spice,  and  pouring  them  hot  over  the  vegetables  to  be  pickled,  which 
are  previously  prepared  by  sprinkling  with  salt,  or  immersing  in  brine. 
It  is  better  not  to  boil  the  vinegar,  by  which  process  its  strength  is 


1^  THE      COMTLETE      COOK. 

evaporated.  Put  the  vinegar  and  spice  into  a  jar,  bun^  it  down ; 
tightly,  tie  a  bladder  over,  and  let  it  stand  on  the  hob,  or  on  a  trivet v 
by  the  side  of  the  fire,  for  three  or  four  days,  well  shaken  three  or  four  ' 
times  a  day;  this  method  may  be  applied  to  gherkins,  French  beans,, 
cabbage,  brocoli,  cauliflowers,  onions,  and  so  forth. 

473.  The  third  method  of  pickling  is  when  the  vegetables  are  in  ftr 
greater  or  less  degree  done  over  the  fire.  Walnuts,  artichokes,  arti-- 
choke  bottoms,  and  beet-roots,  are  done  thus,  and  sometimes  onions  i 
and  cauliflowers. 

474.  Gherkins  or  young  Cucumbers  should  be  the  size  of  a  finger; ; 
if  smaller  they  have  not  attained  their  flavour,  if  much  larger  they 
are  apt  to  be  seedy;  put  them  in  unglazed  stone  jars;  cover  thenii 
with  brine,  composed  of  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  dissolved  in  ai 
quart  of  boiling  water,  and  left  to  become  cold;  cover  down  the  jnrsi 
and  put  them  on  the  hearth  before  the  fire  for  two  or  three  days,  till; 
they  become  yellow;  then  pour  off  the  brine,  drain  the  cucumbers,, 
scald  and  dry  the  jars,  return  the  cucumbers  and  cover  them  witfii 
vinegar:  set  them  again  before  the  fire  and  let  them  remain  until' 
they  become  green,  which  will  be  in  eight  or  ten  days;  then  pour  ofl' 
the  vinegar,  and  put  to  them  a  pickle  of  fresh  vinegar  (prepared  for 
gherkins,  French  beans,  and  so  forth,  as  directed.)  To  each  quart,, 
black  pepper  two  ounces,  ginger  one  ounce,  salt  one  ounce,  cayennoi 
half  a  drachm,  mustard-seed  one  ounce. 

The  vinegar  in  which  the  cucumbers  were  greened  should  be  bot- 
tled: it  will  make  good  sauce  for  cold  meat  or  salads.  Cucumbers* 
are  often  steeped  in  vinegar  on  purpose  to  give  it  a  flavour. 

475.  French  Beans. — The  best  sort  for  this  purpose  are  white- 
runners.  They  are  very  large  long  beans,  but  should  be  gathered  I 
quite  young,  before  they  are  half  grown;  they  may  be  done  in  thai 
same  way  as  gherkins,  but  will  not  require  so  long  a  time,  and  thai 
first  vinegar  is  not  so  nice  as  that  from  cucumbers. 

476.  Onions. — Onions  should  be  chosen  about  the  size  of  marbles,, 
the  silver-skinned  sort  are  the  best.  Prepare  a  brine  and  put  themi 
into  it  hot;  let  them  remain  one  or  two  days,  then  drain  them,  and,, 
when  quite  dry,  put  them  into  clean  dry  jars,  and  cover  them  with  \ 
hot  pickle,  in  every  quart  of  which  has  been  steeped  one  ounce  each 
of  horse-radish  sliced,  black  pepper,  allspice,  and  salt,  with  or  with- 
out mustard-seed.  In  all  pickles  the  vinegar  should  always  be  two  > 
inches  or  more  above  the  vegetables,  as  it  is  sure  to  shrink,  and  if  the  ^ 
vegetables  are  not  thoroughly  immersed  in  pickle  they  will  not  keep. . 

477.  Red  Cabbage. — Choose  fine  firm  cabbages:  the  largest  areiy 
not  the  best;  trim  off'  the  outside  leaves;  quarter  the  cabbage,  take- 
out the  large  stalk,  slice  the  quarters  into  a  colander,  find  sprinkle  a 
little  salt  between  the  layers;  put  but  a  little  salt,  too  much  will 
spoil  the  colour;  let  it  remain  in  the  colander  till  next  day,  shake  it 
well  that  all  the  brine  may  run  off";  put  it  in  jars,  cover  it  with  a  hot 
pickle  composed  of  black  pepper  and  allspice,  of  each  an  ounce; 
ginger  pounded,  horse-radish  sliced,  and  salt,  of  each  half  an  ouncd 


PICKLES.  131 

to  every  quart  of  vineg-ar  (steeped  as  above  directpd)  ;  two  capsicums 
may  be  added  to  a  quart,  or  one  drachm  of  cayenne, 

478.  Garlic  and  Eschalots. — Gurlic  and  eschalots  may  be  pickled 
in  !ho  same  way  as  onions. 

479.  Melons,  Mangoes,  and  long  Cucumbers,  may  all  be  done  in 
the  same  manner.  Melons  should  not  be  much  nior^^  than  half  g^rovvn; 
cucumbers  full  grown,  but  not  overgrown.  Cut  otf'tlie  top,  but  leave 
it  han<,nn(r  by  a  bit  of  rind,  which  is  to  serve  as  a  himre  to  a  box-lid  ; 
with  a  marrow-spoon  scoop  out  all  the  seeds,  and  fill  the  fruit  with 
equal  parts  of  mustard-seed,  ground  pepper,  and  ginger,  or  flour  of 
mustard  instead  of  the  seeds,  and  two  or  three  cloves  of  garlic.  The 
lid  which  encloses  the  spice  may  be  sewed  down  or  tied,  by  running 
a  while  thread  tiirough  the  cucumber,  and  through  the  lid,  and  then, 
tying  it  together,  cut  off  the  ends.  The  pickle  may  be  prepared  with 
the  spices  directed  for  cucumbers,  or  with  the  following,  which  bears 
a  nearer  resemblance  to  India.  To  each  quart  of  vinegar  put  salt, 
flour  of  mustard,  curry  powder,  bruised  gmger,  turmeric,  half  an 
ounce  of  each,  cayenne  pepper  one  drachm,  all  rubbed  together  with 
a  large  glassful  of  salad  oil  ;  eschalots  two  ounces,  and  garlic  half 
an  ounce,  sliced;  steep  the  spice  in  the  vinegar  as  before  directed, 
and  put  the  vegetables  into  it  hot. 

4S0.  Brocoli  or  CauliJIowers. — Choose  such  as  are  firm,  yet  of 
their  full  size;  cut  away  all  the  leaves,  and  pare  the  stalk;  pull  away 
the  flowers  by  bunches,  steep  in  brine  two  days,  then  drain  them; 
wipe  them  dry  and  put  them  into  hot  picUle;  or  merely  infuse  for 
three  days  three  ounces  of  curry  powder  in  every  quart  of  vinegar. 

481.  Walnuts. — Be  particular  in  obtaining  them  exactly  at  the 
proper  season ;  if  they  go  beyond  the  middle  of  July,  there  is  danger 
of  their  becoming  hard  and  woody.  Steep  them  a  week  in  brine.  If 
they  are  wanted  to  be  soon  ready  for  use,  prick  them  with  a  pin,  or 
run  a  larding  pin  several  times  through  them;  but  if  they  are  not 
vi'anted  in  haste,  this  method  had  better  be  let  alone.  Put  them  into 
a  kf'ttle  of  brine,  and  give  them  a  gentle  simmer,  then  drain  them  on 
a  sieve  and  lay  them  on  fish  drainers  in  an  airy  place,  until  they  be- 
come black,  which  may  be  two  days;  then  add  hot  pickle  of  vinegar 
in  which  has  been  steeped,  in  the  proportion  of  a  quart,  black  pepper 
one  ounce,  ginger,  eschalots,  salt,  and  mustard-seed,  one  ounce  each. 
Most  pickle  vinegar,  when  the  vegetables  are  used,  may  be  turned  to 
use,  walnut  pickle  in  particular;  boil  it  up,  allowing  to  each  quart 
four  or  six  anchovies  chopped  small,  and  a  large  table-spoonful  of 
eschalots,  also  chopped.  Let  it  stand  a  few  days,  till  it  is  quite  clear, 
then  pour  oft'  and  bottle.  It  is  an  excellent  store  sauce  for  hashes, 
fish,  and  various  other  purposes. 

482.  Beet-roots. — Boil  or  bake  gently  until  they  are  nearly  done* 
according  to  the  size  of  the  roots  they  will  require  from  an  hou 
and  a  half  to  two  hours;  drain  them,  and  when  they  begin  to  cool 
peel  and  cut  in  slices  half  an  inch  thick,  then  put  them  into  a  pickle 
comp(3sed  of  black  pepper  and  allspice,  of  each  one  ounce,  ginger 
pounded,  horse-radish  sliced,  and  salt,  of  each  half  an  ounce  to  wery 


i32  THE      COMPLETE      COOK. 

quart  of  vinegar,  steeped.     Two  capsicums  may  be  added  to  a  quart, 
or  one  drachm  of  cayenne. 

483.  CauliJImoers  or  Brocoli. — Choose  firm  full-ofrown  cauliflowers 
and  brocoli,  cut  away  all  the  leaves  and  pare  the  stalk,  and  instead  of 
sleeping  in  cold  brine,  set  them  over  the  fire  in  cold  brine,  and  let  it 
heat  gradually.  Just  before  it  comes  to  boil,  take  them  up  in  a  wire 
ladle,  and  spread  them  on  a  cloth  before  the  fire;  when  quite  dry,  put 
them  into  glass  or  jars,  and  add  cold  pickle,  according  to  the  second 
method  of  making  pickle  (472). 

484.  Artichokes. — Gather  young  artichokes  as  soon  as  formed  ; 
throw  them  into  boiling  brine,  and  let  them  boil  two  minutes ;  drain 
them;  when  cold  and  dry  put  them  in  jars,  and  cover  with  vineofar, 
prepared  as  method  the  third,  but  the  only  spices  employed  should  be 
ginger,  mace  and  nutmeg. 

485.  Artichoke  Bottoms. — Get  full-grown  artichokes  and  boil  them, 
but  not  so  much  as  for  eating,  but  just  until  the  leaves  can  be  pulled  ; 
remove  them  and  the  choke  ;  in  taking  off  the  stalk,  be  careful  not  to 
break  it  off  so  as  to  bring  away  any  of  the  bottom ;  it  would  be  better 
to  pare  them  with  a  silver  knife,  and  leave  half  an  inch  of  tender  stalk 
coming  to  a  point;  when  cold,  add  vinegar  and  spice,  the  same  as  for 
aitichokes. 

486.  Mushrooms. — Choose  small  white  mushrooms ;  they  should 
be  but  one  night's  growth.  Cut  ofTthe  roots,  and  rub  the  mushrooms 
clean  with  a  bit  of  flannel  and  salt;  put  them  in  a  jar,  allowing  to 
every  quart  of  mushrooms  one  ounce  each  of  salt  and  ginger,  half  an 
ounce  of  whole  pepper,  eight  blades  of  mace,  a  bay  leaf,  a  strip  of  le- 
mon rind,  and  a  wine-glassful  of  sherry ;  cover  the  jar  close,  and  let  it 
stand  on  the  hob  or  on  a  stove,  so  as  to  be  thoroughly  heated,  and  on 
the  point  of  boiling;  so  let  it  remain  a  day  or  two,  till  the  liquor  is  ab- 
sorbed by  the  mushrooms  and  spices;  then  cover  them  with  hot  vine- 
gar, close  them  again,  and  stand  till  it  just  comes  to  a  boil ;  then  take 
them  away  from  the  fire.  When  they  are  quite  cold  divide  the  mush- 
rooms and  spice  into  wide-mouthed  bottles,  fill  them  up  with  the  vine- 
gar, and  tie  them  over.  In  a  week's  time,  if  the  vinegar  has  shrunk 
so  as  not  entirely  to  cover  the  mushrooms,  add  cold  vinegar.  At  the 
top  of  each  bottle  put  a  tea-spoonful  of  salad  or  almond  oil ;  cork  close, 
and  dip  in  bottle  resin. 

487.  Samphire. — On  the  sea-coast  this  is  merely  preserved  in  wa- 
ter, or  equal  parts  of  sea-water  and  vinegar;  but  as  it  is  sometimes 
pent  fresh  as  a  present  to  inland  parts,  the  best  way  of  managing  it 
under  such  circumstances,  is  to  steep  it  two  days  in  brine,  then  drain 
and  put  it  in  a  stone  jar  covered  with  vinegar,  and  having  a  lid,  over 
which  put  thick  paste  of  flour  and  water,  and  set  it  in  a  very  cool  oven 
all  night,  or  in  a  warmer  oven  till  it  nearly,  but  not  quite  boils.  Then 
let  it  stand  on  a  warm  hob  for  half  an  hour,  and  let  it  become  quite  cold 
before  the  paste  is  removed  ;  then  add  cold  vinegar,  if  any  more  is  re- 
quired, and  secure  as  other  pickles. 

488.  India?!.  Fickle. — The  vefietables  to  be  employed  for  this  fa- 
vourite pickle,  are  small  hard  knots  of  white  cabbage  sliced,  cauli- 


.  il  O  O  PICKLES.  ^  '*^  133 

flowers  or  brocoli  in  flakes,  long-  carrots  not  larger  than  a  finder,  or 
laroe  ciirrots  sliced  (the  former  are  far  preferable,)  gherkins,  Frenclj 
beans,  small  bottom  onions,  white  turnip  radi.<hes  half  grown,  radish- 
pods,  eschalots,  young  hard  apples,  green  peaches  when  the  trees  arc 
thinned  before  the  stones  begin  to  form,  vegetable  marrow  not  larger 
than  a  hen's  eg^,  small  green  melons,  celery,  shoots  of  green  elder, 
horse-radish,  na^iturtiums,  capsicums,  and  garlic.  As  all  these  vege- 
tables do  not  come  in  season  together,  the  best  method  of  doing  this 
is  to  prepare  a  large  jar  of  pickle  at  sucli  time  of  the  year  as  most  of 
the  things  may  be  obtained,  and  add  the  others  as  they  come  in  sea- 
son. Thus  the  pickle  will  be  nearly  a  year  in  making,  and  ought  to 
btand  another  year  before  nsing,  when,  if  properly  managed,  it  will 
be  excellent,  but  will  keep  and  continue  to  improve  for  years.  For 
preparing  the  several  vegetables,  the  same  directions  may  be  observed 
»s  for  pickling  them  separately,  only  take  this  general  rule — that,  if 
possible,  boiling  is  to  be  avoided,  and  soaking  in  brine  to  be  preferred  ; 
be  very  particular  that  every  ingredient  is  perfectly  dry  before  put- 
ting into  the  jar,  and  that  the  jar  is  very  closely  tied  down  every  time 
that  it  is  opened  for  the  addition  of  fresh  vegetables.  Neither  mush- 
rooms, walnuts,  nor  red  cabbage,  are  to  be  admitted. 

For  the  pickle-  To  a  gallon  of  the  best  wine  vinegar  add  salt 
three  ounces,  flour  of  mustard  half  a  pound,  turmeric  two  ounces, 
white  ginger  sliced  three  ounces,  cloves  one  ounce,  mace,  black  pep- 
per, long  pepper,  white  pepper,  half  an  ounce  each,  cayenne  two 
drachms,  eschalots  peeled  four  ounces,  garlic  peeled  two  ounces; 
steep  the  spice  in  vinegar  on  the  hob  or  trivet  for  two  or  three  days. 
The  mustard  and  turmeric  must  be  rubbed  smooth  with  a  little  cold 
vinegar,  and  stirred  into  the  rest  when  as 'near  boiling  as  possible. 
Such  vegetables  as  are  ready  may  be  put  in ;  when  cayenne,  nastur 
liums,  or  any  other  vegetables  mentioned  in  the  first  method  of  pick- 
ling, come  in  season,  put  them  in  the  pickle  as  they  are ;  any  in  the 
second  method,  a  small  quantity  of  hot  vinegar  witiiout  spice  ;  when 
cold  pour  it  off,  and  put  the  vegetables  into  the  general  jar.  If  the 
vegetables  are  greened  in  vinegar,  as  French  beans  and  gherkins, 
this  will  not  be  so  necessary,  but  will  be  an  improvement  to  all. 
Onions  had  better  not  be  wet  at  all ;  but  if  it  be  desired  not  to  have  the 
full  flavour,  both  onions,  eschalots,  and  garlic,  may  be  sprinkled  with 
salt  in  a  colander,  to  draw  off  all  the  strong  juice ;  let  them  lie  two  or 
three  hours. 

The  elder  apples,  peaches,  and  so  forth,  to  be  greened  as  gherkins. 
See  method  the  second  (472.) 

The  root--,  radishes,  carrots,  celery,  are  only  soaked  in  brine  and 
dried.  Haifa  pint  of  salad  oil,  or  of  mustard  oil,  is  sometimes  added. 
It  should  be  rubbed  with  the  flour  of  mustard  and  turmeric.  It  is  not 
essential  to  Indian  pickle  to  have  every  variety  of  vegetable  here  men- 
tioned ;  but  ull  these  are  admissible,  and  the  greater  variety  the  more 
epproved. 
11* 


134  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

PASTRY.— GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

We  are  no  friends  to  pastry,  particularly  what  is  called  the  rich 
flaky  pastry.  It  is  decidedly  iiidi^restible,  and  consequently  unvvhoie- 
sofne.  A  crisp,  short  paste,  however,  we  consider  nutritious;  the  but- 
ler, lard,  &LC.  being  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  flour  iti  the  pro- 
cess of  making  it.  Oleaginous  substance?,  such  as  lard,  become  not 
only  perfectly  innocuous,  when  well  mixed  with  farina,  and  well 
baked  or  boiled,  but  very  nourishing  and  wholesome;  and  this  we 
take  to  be  the  best  way  of  preparing  such  things  for  human  food. 

In  making  pastry,  the  cook,  as  indeed  she  ought  to  be  on  all  occa- 
sions, should  be  particularly  clean  and  neat.  Her  utensils  should  be 
kept  in  "  apple-pie  order,"  and  when  they  are  done  with,  they  should 
be  carefully  cleaned  and  put  in  their  places.  Her  paste-board  and 
rolling-pin,  let  it  be  remembered,  shoijld,  after  using,  be  well  scoured 
with  hot  water  alone.  She  should  not  use  soap,  sand,  or  stone  dust 
of  any  kind.  A  marble  slab  is  preferable  to  a  board  for  rolling  paste. 
Both  are  generally  made  too  small  to  be  convenient.  Three  feet  long 
by  two  feet  wide  is  a  good  size.  In  making  a  paste,  a  good  cook  will 
have  no  waste  of  any  kind,  and  particularly  she  will  not  make  more 
at  one  time  than  she  wants,  under  the  idea  that  she  can  keep  it  in 
flour  till  the  next  time  of  making ;  for  it  is  ten  to  one  but  that  the  old 
paste  will  spoil  the  new.  No  Hour  except  the  very  best  can  be  used 
for  fine  descriptions  of  pa.stry,  and  in  damp  weather  it  should  be  dried 
before  the  fire,  but  not  scorched.  Clarified  dripping,  good  lanl,  mar- 
row, salt  butter  well  washed,  may  be  used  for  ordinary  pastry  ;  indeed, 
if  they  are  pure  and  sweet  they  will  form  good  pastry,  with  good  flour 
and  good  management.  In  wealthy  families,  however,  where  economy 
is  not  an  object,  and  every  thing  tor  the  table  is  required  to  be  of  the 
first  quality,  the  safest  plan  is  to  use  the  best  fresh  butter.  The  fat 
that  settles  on  stews,  and  on  the  broth  in  which  meat  has  been  boiled, 
may  be  used  tor  pastry,  that  is,  provided  it  is  tasteless.  Suet  is  some- 
limea  used  for  meat  pies,  but  though  it  makes  a  light  crust,  when  hot, 
it  does  not  eat  well  when  cold. 

A  most  wholesome  crust  is  made  without  butter  or  any  other  oily 
matter.-  For  this  pufpose  take  half  a  quartern  of  dough,  work  in  an 
egg,  and  cover  your  pie.  This  will  be  sutficient  for  a  large  one.  A 
great  deal  more  butter,,  or  fat  of  some  kind  or  other,  was  formerly 
directed  to  be  used  in  making  pastry  than  at  present.  For  ordinary 
purposes,  half  the  weiglit  of  lard,  or  butter,  is  sufficient,  but  in  the 
richest  crusts  the  quantity  should  never  exceed  the  weight  of  flour. 
Eggs  may  be  added  to  enrich  the  crust;  use  no  more  water  or  other 
liquid  in  making  paste  than  is  absolutely  necessary,  or,  in  other  words?, 
take  care  not  to  "put  out  the  miller's  eye,"  that  is,  to  make  the  paste 
loo  moist.  The  great  thing  is  to  incorporate  the  flour  well  with  the 
fat,  which  you  cannot  do  if  you  allow  too  njuch  water  or  milk  in  the 
first  instance. 

The  under  or  side  crust,  which  should  be  th'n,  should  not  be  made 
so  rich  as  the  top  crust,  as  otherwise  it  will  make  the  gravy  or  syrup 


PASTRY.  135 

gfRHKy.  All  diphes  in  which  pies  are  to  bo  baked  should  be  buttered 
or  greased  round  the  edaes  to  prevent  the  crust  from  sticking,  and  if 
there  be  an  under  crust,  all  over  the  in.side :  —  the  same  must  be 
done  with  tins  or  saucers. 

There  is  a  number  of  other  little  things  to  bo  attended  to  in  mak- 
ing pastry,  which  we  will  enumerate  in  as  few  words  as  wo  can. 
Fruit  pics  or  large  tarts  should  have  a  hole  made  in  the  middle  of  the 
crust,  and  it  is  a  good  plan  in  a  family  pie  to  place  a  small  tea-cup  in 
the  middle  of  the  pie;  this  will  form  a  receptacle  for  the  syrup,  and 
prevent  its  bniling  over.  For  the  same  reason  meat  pies  should  have 
holes  round  their  edges,  but  they  do  not  require  a  tea-cup.  The 
thickness  of  the  crust  must  be  regulated  by  the  judgment  of  the  cook 
with  reference  to  the  nature  of  the  pie,  and  the  circumstances  of  the 
party  by  whom  it  is  to  be  eaten.  Top  crusts  vary  in  thickness  from 
half  an  inch  to  an  inch  or  more.  Of  course  a  meat  pie  will  require  a 
longer  time  to  bake  than  a  fruit  one,  and  some  descriptions  of  fruit 
again  longer  than  others.  The  edges  of  pies  are  sometimes  crimped 
or  jagged,  and  some  persons  further  ornament  them  with  leaves,  or 
stars  cut  out  of  paste,  and  laid  on  the  top  of  the  crust.  Pigeon  and 
game  pies,  &.c.  are  general iy  washed  over  with  finely  beaten  yolk  of 
eggs,  simply  to  give  them  a  nice  appearance,  but  they  are  just  as 
nice  without  it.  We  ought  to  add,  that  where  the  paste  is  wanted 
to  adhere,  as  in  the  upper  and  under  crusts  of  a  pie,  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  touch  the  parts  with  tlie  white  of  an  egg;  a  little  water  will  do, 
but  not  so  well. 

489.  Flaky  and  Short  Crusls. — In  making  a  Jlaky  crust  a  part  of 
the  flit  should  be  worked  witii  the  hand  to  a  cream,  and  then  the 
whole  of  the  flour  well  rubbed  into  it  before  any  water  or  milk  is 
added.  The  remaining  fat  must  bo  stuck  on  the  paste  and  be  rolled 
out.  For  crisp  crust,  by  far  the  most  wholesome,  the  whole  of  the 
fat  should  be  rubbed  in  and  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  flour. 
Water  or  milk  must  be  added  when  this  is  done,  and  the  dough,  or 
rather  paste,  made  up.  The  pie-board  and  rolling-pin  should  be  well 
dusted  with  flour,  and  the  dough  sliould  be  well  beaten  with  the  pin 
to  thoroughly  mix  it,  and  render  it  light.  Mind,  in  rolling  out  paste 
do  not  drive  the  pin  backwards  and  forwards,  but  always  keep  rolling 
from  you.  In  making  flaky  crusts  the  paste  must  be  rolled  out  thin, 
and  the  fat  or  butter  laid  all  over  it;  then  roll  it  up  and  beat  it  till  it 
putfs  up  in  little  bladders:  it  should  be  then  finally  rolled  out,  and 
put  in  the  oven  as  quickly  as  possible. 

490.  Raised  Crust.  —  Put  two  pounds  and  a  half  of  flour  on  the 
paste-board,  and  put  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  three-quarters  of  a  pint 
of  water,  and  half  a  pound  of  gooti  lard;  when  the  water  boils,  make 
a  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  flour,  pour  in  the  water  and  lard  by  degrees, 
gently  mix  it  with  a  spoon,  and  when  it  is  well  mixed,  then  knead  it 
with  your  hands  till  it  becomes  stifi';  dredge  a  little  flour  to  prevent 
it  sticking  to  the  board,  or  you  cannot  make  it  smooth  ;  then  set  it 
aside  for  an  hour,  and  keep  it  cool :  do  not  roll  it  with  your  rol'ing- 
pin,  bat  roll  it  with  your  hands,  about  the  thickness  of  a  quart  pot; 


136  THE     COMPLETE      COOK. 

cut  it  into  six  pieces,  leaving  a  little  for  the  covers ;  put  the  left  hand, 
clenched,  in  the  middle  of  one  of  the  pieces,  and  with  the  other  on 
the  outside  work  it  up  ao^ainst  the  back  of  the  left  to  a  round  or  oval 
shape.  It  is  now  ready  for  the  meat,  which  must  be  cut  into  small 
pieces  with  some  fat,  and  pressed  into  the  pie;  then  cover  it  with  the 
paste  previously  rolled  out  to  a  proper  thickness,  and  of  the  size  of 
the  pie;  put  this  lid  on  the  pie  and  press  it  toofelher  with  your  thumb 
and  lingL-r,  cut  it  all  round  with  a  pair  of  scissors,  and  bake  for  an 
hour  and  a  half.  Our  good  old  country  housewives  pride  themselves 
very  much  upon  beino-  able  to  raise  a  largo  and  high  pork  pie.  This 
crust  vvill  answer  for  many  meat  and  other  pies  baked  in  dishes 
or  tins. 

491.  Puff  Paste. — This  paste  is  nearly  the  same  as  what  we  have 
called  (439)  flaky  crust,  and,  of  course,  made  upon  the  same  princi- 
ples. If  f^giTB  are  desired,  allow  three  yolks  to  a  pound  of  butter  or 
lard.  Rub  a  fourth  part  of  the  fat  to  a  cream,  then  mix  the  eggs 
with  it,  and  afterwards  the  flour.  A  very  little  water  will  suffice  to 
vyet  it.  Beat  it  with  the  pin  to  make  it  flaky;  roll  it  out  thin  three 
times,  puttinfT  in  a  portion  of  the  fat  each  time,  and  roll  it  from  you: 
after  each  rolling,  beat  it  well. 

492.  Sweet  Paste. — This  is  suitable  to  fruit  tarts  generally,  apples 
perhaps  excepted,  for  which  we  recommend  a  puflT  paste.  To  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  put  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour,  three  or 
four  ounces  of  sifted  loaf-sugar,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  half  a  pint 
of  new  milk.  Bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven;  if  required  to  be  iced, 
see  500. 

493.  Crust  for  Savoury  Pies. — To  two  pounds  of  flour,  one  and  a 
half  of  butter,  or  lard,  and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs;  rub  part  of  the 
fat  to  a  cream  with  the  eggs,  then  rub  in  the  flour;  v^'et  with  cold 
water,  and  roll  out  with  the  remainder  of  the  butter.  This  crust  is 
suitable  f)r  pigeon,  rabbit,  hare,  and  other  savoury  pies. 

494.  A  rich  Short  Crust.  —  Rub  to  a  cream  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter ;  add  one  pound  of  well-dried  and  very  fine  flour,  and  two 
ounces  or  more  of  pounded  loaf-sugar;  rub  together  till  they  are  tho- 
roughly incorporated  ;  then  add  the  yolks  of  two  good-sized  eggs,  and 
as  much  boiling  hot  cream  as  will  bring  it  to  a  proper  consistence. 
Bike  \i\  a  moderate  oven.  . 

495.  Biscuit  Paste. — Take  six  yolks  of  eggs,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  loaf-sugar,  a  pound  of  flour,  and  a  tea-cup  full  of  milk.  Rub  these 
ingredients  into  a  stiff  pnste.  This  paste  is  only  fit  for  light  preserved 

■fruits  that  require  scarcely  any  baking.  It  is  sometimes  cut  out  in 
rounds,  a  bit  of  jam  or  jelly  placed  on  each,  and  baked  in  tins. 

49G.  Crust  for  Venison  Pasty. — Raised  crust  (490)  will  do,  but  if 
a  richer  be  required,  increase  the  quantity  of  butter,  and  add  eggs. 
Let  the  top  crust  be  substantial,  and  line  the  sides  of  the  dish,  but  not 
the  bottom. 

497.  Stringing  Paste  m  jst  be  made  more  tenacious  than  I  he  other 
descriptions.     A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour  to  one  ounce  of  butter, 


PIES,     TARTS,     AND     PUFFS.  137 

•with  a  very  little  water,  will  make  paste  which  may  be  drawn  out  in 
fine  striny.--^  and  laid  across  the  tartlets. 

498.  Foiatoe  Paste. — Boil  your  potatoes;  rub  through  a  colander, 
and  while  quite  hot  add  butter  and  an  egg".  Use  plenty  of  Hour  on 
the  pie-hoard  and  rolling-pin;  cover  your  pie,  and  put  it  into  the  oven 
while  quite  warm. 

499.  Rice  Paste. — Simmer  the  rice  in  water  or  milk  till  quite  soft 
and  pulpy;  drain  it  well  oft;  stir  in  yolks  of  eggs,  one  to  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  rice,  and  a  little  butter,  if  you  like.  Roll  out  the  paste 
with  a  dust  of  flour.  Cover  your  pie  and  bake  without  suffering  to 
cool.     Tills  paste  will  do  for  either  savoury  or  sweet  pies. 

500.  Icing  Pastry. — When  nearly  baked  enough,  take  the  pastry 
out  of  the  oven  and  sift  fine  powdered  sugar  over  it.  Replace  it  in 
the  oven  and  hold  over  it,  till  the  sugar  is  melted,  a  hot  salamander 
or  shovel.  The  above  method  is  preferred  for  pastry  to  be  eaten  hot: 
for  cold,  beat  up  the  white  of  two  eggs  well,  wash  over  the  tops  of 
the  pies  with  a  brush,  and  sift  over  this  a  good  coating  of  sugar; 
cause  it  to  adhere  to  the  egg  and  pie  crust;  trundle  over  it  a  clean 
brush  dipped  in  water  till  the  sugar  is  all  moistened.  Bake  again  for 
about  ten  minutes. 


PIES,    TARTS,    AND    PUFFS. 

501.  Perigord  Pie. — Make  a  force  meat  chiefly  of  truffles,  a  small 
quantity  of  basil,  thyme,  parsley,  knotted  marjoram,  the  liver  of  any 
kind  of  game  (if  of  woodcocks,  that  and  the  entrails,  except  the  little 
bag),  a  small  quantity  of  fat  bacon,  a  few  crumbs,  the  flesh  of  wild  or 
tame  fowls,  pepper,  and  salt.  Lard  the  breasts  of  pheasants,  par- 
tridges, woodcocks,  moor-game,  or  whatever  game  you  have,  with 
bacon  of  different  sizes;  cut  the  legs  and  wings  from  the  backs,  and 
divide  the  backs  ;  season  them  all  with  white  pepper,  a  little  Jamaica 
pepper,  mace,  and  salt ;  make  a  thick  raised  crust  to  receive  the 
above  articles;  it  is  thought  better  than  a  dish,  but  either  will  do. 
Line  it  closely  with  slices  of  fine  fat  bacon,  then  cover  it  with  stuflT- 
ing,  and  put  the  different  parts  of  the  game  lightly  on  it,  with  whole 
green  truffles,  and  pieces  of  stuffing  among  and  over  it,  observing  not 
to  crowd  the  articles,  so  as  to  cause  them  to  be  underbaked.  Over 
the  whole  lay  slices  of  fat  bacon,  and  then  a  cover  of  thick  common 
crust.  Bake  it  slowly,  according  to  the  size  of  the  pie,  which  will 
require  a  long  time. 

Some  are  made  with  a  pheasant  in  the  middle  whole,  and  the  other 
game  cut  up  and  put  round  it. 

502.  Sole  Pie.  —  Split  the  soles  from  the  bone,  and  cut  the  fins 
close ;  season  with  a  mixture  of  salt,  pepper,  a  little  nutmeg,  and 
pounded  mace,  and  put  them  in  layers  with  oysters.  They  eat  ex- 
cellently. A  pair  of  middling  sized  ones  will  do,  and  half  a  hundred 
of  oyt^ters;  put  in  the  dish  the  oyster  liquor,  two  or  three  spoonfuls 
of  broth,  and  some  butter.  When  the  pie  is  baked,  pour  in  a  cupfttl. 
of  thick  cream  boiled  up  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour. 


138  THE     COMPLETECOOK. 

503.  Eel  Pie. — Cut  the  eels  in  lengths  of  two  or  throe  inches, 
after  skinning  thorn  ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  place  in  the 
diirh  with  some  bits  of  butter  and  a  little  water,  and  cover  it  with 
pd.stp.     Middle-sized  eels  do  best. 

504.  Oyster  Fie. — Open  the  oysters  and  strain  the  liquor  from 
thesn  ;  parboil  them  after  taking  oif  the  beards.  Parboil  sweetbreads, 
cut  them  in  slices,  lay  them  and  the  oysters  in  layers,  season  them 
v*ry  lightly  witli  salt,  popper,  and  mace,  then  put  half  a  tea-cup  full 
of  liquor,  and  the  same  of  gravy.  Bake  in  a  slow  oven,  and  before 
you  serve,  put  a  tea-cup  full  of  cream,  a  little  more  of  oyster  liquor, 
and  a  cup  of  white  gravy,  all  warmed,  but  not  boiled. 

505.  Pilchard  Pie. — Clean  and  skin  the  white  part  of  large  leeks; 
scald  in  milk  and  water,  and  put  them  in  layers  into  a  di.-.h,  and,  be- 
tween the  byers,  two  or  three  salted  pilchards  which  have  been 
soaked  for  two  or  three  hours  the  day  before.  Cover  the  whole  with 
a  good  plain  crust.  When  the  pie  is  taken  out  of  the  oven,  lift  up 
the  side  crust  with  a  knife  and  empty  out  all  the  liquor;  then  pour 
in  half  a  pint  of  scalded  cream. 

506.  A  remarkably  Jine  Fish  Pie. — Boil  two  pounds  of  small  eels; 
having  cut  the  fins  quite  close,  pick  the  flesh  off  and  throw  the  bones  i 
into  the  liquor  with  a  little  mace,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  slice  of  onion, , 
and  boil  till  rich,  and  strain  it;  make  force  meat  of  the  flesh,  an  i 
anchovy,  parsley,  lemon  peel,  salt,  pepper,  and  crumbs,  and  four; 
ounces  of.  butter  warmed,  and  lay  it  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish.  Take  ' 
the  flesh  of  soles,  small  cod,  or  dressed  turbot,  and  lay  it  on  the  force 
meat,  having  rubbed  it  with  salt  and  pepper;  pour  the  gravy  over*, 
and  bake.     Ob.-erve  to  take  off  the  skins  and  fins,  if  cod  or  soles. 

507.  Becf-sleak  Pie. — Take  beef-steaks  tliat  have  been  well  hung, 
beat  them  gently  with  a  circular  steak-beater,  season  them  with  > 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  eschalot  minced  very  fine.  Roll  each  steak: 
with  a  good  piece  of  fat,  and  fill  your  dish.  Put  some  crust  on  thei 
edge  an  inch  below  it,  and  a  cup  of  water  or  broth  in  the  dish.  Cover" 
with  rather  a  thick  crust,  and  set  in  a  moderate  oven. 

508.  Becf-sleak  and  Oyster  Pie. — l^repare  tlie  steaks  as  above,, 
without  rolling,  and  put  layers  of  them  and  of  oysters.  Stew  that 
liquor  and  beards  of  the  latter,  with  a  bit  of  lemon  peel,  mace,  and  a:i 
sprig  of  parsley.  When  the  pie  is  baked,  boil  with  above  three"* 
spoonfuls,  and  an  ounce  of  butter  rolled  with  flour.  Strain  it,  and*! 
put  it  into  the  dish.  • 

509.  Veal,  Chicken  and  Parsley  Pie. — Cut  some  slices  from  the^ 
neck  or  leg  of  veal ;  if  from  the  leg,  about  the  knuckle;  season  thenif 
with  salt,  scald  some  parsley  that  is  picked  from  the  stems  and  press  i 
it  dry ;  cut  it  a  little  and  lay  it  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  then  put  the 
meat,  and  so  on,  in  layers.     Fill  the  dish  witli  milk,  but  not  so  higii 
as  the  crust:  cover  it  with  crust,  and  when  baked,  pour  out  a  little  of 
the  milk,  and  put  in  half  a  pint  of  good  scalded  cream.     Chickens 
may  be  cut  up  and  cooked  in  the  same  way. 

510.  Veal  Olive  Pie. — Make  the  olives  in  the  following  manner; 
Cut  long  thin  slices  of  veal,  beat  tiiem,  lay  on  them  thin  slices  of  fat 


PIES,      TARTS       AND     PUFFS.  139 

bacon,  and  over  them  a  layer  offeree  meat,  seasoned  high  with  shred 
eschalot  and  cayenne.  Roll  them  tight,  about  the  size  of  two  fingers, 
but  not  more  than  two  or  three  inches  long;  fasten  them  round  with 
a  small  skewer,  rub  egg  over  them.  Put  them  round  and  round  the 
dit«h,  making  the  m.iddle  highest;  fill  it  up  almost  with  water,  and 
cover  it.  Add  gravy,  cream,  flour,  and  mushroom  powder,  when 
baked. 

511.  Veal  Pie. — Take  some  of  the  middle  or  scrag  of  a  small  neck; 
season  it  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  either  put  to  it,  or  not,  a  few  slices 
of  lean  bacon  or  ham.  if  it  is  wanted  of  a  high  relish,  add  mace, 
cayenne,  and  nutmeg,  to  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  also  force  meat  and 
eggs,  and  if  you  choose  add  truffles,  morels,  mushrooms,  sweetbreads 
cut  into  small  bits,  and  cocks'-combs  blanched,  if  liked.  Have  a  rich 
gravy  to  pour  in  after  baking ;  it  will  be  very  good  without  any  of  the 
latter  additions. 

512.  A  rich  Veal  Pie. — Cut  steaks  from  the  neck  or  breast  of  veal ; 
season  them  with  pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg,  and  a  very  little  clove  in 
powder.  Slice  two  sweatbreads,  and  season  them  in  the  same  man- 
ner. Lay  a  puff  paste  on  the  edge  of  the  dish;  then  put  the  meat, 
yolks  of  hard  eggi*,  the  sweetbreads,  and  some  oysters,  up  to  the  top 
of  the  dish.  Lay  over  the  whole  some  very  thin  slices  of  ham,  and 
fill  up  the  dish  with  water;  cover,  and  when  it  is  taken  out  of  the 
oven  pour  in  at  the  top,  through  a  funnel,  some  veal  gravy  and  rich 
cream,  warmed  together.  Lay  a  paper  over  the  crust,  that  it  may 
not  be  too  brown. 

513.  Calfs  Head  Pie. — Stew  a  knuckle  of  veal  till  fit  for  eating, 
with  two  onions,  a  few  isinglass  shavings,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a 
blade  of  mace,  and  a  few  peppercorns,  in  three  pints  of  water.  Keep 
the  broth  for  the  pie.  Take  off  a  bit  of  the  meat  for  the  balls,  and 
let  the  other  be  eaten  ;  butter,  simmer  the  bones  in  the  broth  till  it  is 
very  good.  Half  boil  the  head,  and  cut  it  into  square  bits;  put  a 
layer  of  ham  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  then  some  head,  first  fat,  then 
lean,  with  balls  and  hard  eggs  cut  in  half,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  is 
full ;  and  take  care  not  to  place  the  pieces  close,  or  the  pie  will  be  too 
solid,  and  there  will  be  no  space  for  the  jelly.  The  meat  must  be 
first  pretty  well  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  scrape  or  two  of 
nutmeg.  Put  a  little  water  and  a  little  gravy  into  the  dish,  and  cover 
it  with  a  tolerably  thick  crust;  bake  it  in  a  slow  oven,  and  when  done, 
pour  in  as  much  gravy  as  it  will  hold,  and  do  not  cut  it  till  perfectly 
cold,  in  doing  which  observe  to  use  a  very  sharp  knife,  and  first  cut 
out  a  large  piece,  going  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  when  cut 
thus,  thinner  slices  can  be  cut.  The  different  colours  and  the  jelly 
have  a  beautiful  marble  appearance.  A  small  pie  may  be  made  to 
eat  hot,  which,  with  high  seasoning,  oysters,  mushrooms,  truffle.-^,  and 
morels,  has  a  very  good  appearance.  The  cold  pie  will  keep  many 
days;  slices  make  a  pretty  side  dish.  Instead  of  isinglass,  use  a 
calf's  foot  or  a  cow-heel,  if  the  jelly  is  not  likely  to  be  stiff  enough. 
The  pickled  tongues  of  calves'  heads  may  be  cut  instead  of,  or  in  ad- 
dition to,  ham. 


149  THE      COMPLETE      COOK. 

514.  Excellent  Pork  Pies  to  cat  cold— Cut  the  trimininfrs  ofF  n 
hog  when  cut  uj5,  and  if  you  have  not  sufficient,  tako  the  meat  otf  f- 
Bweet-bonf?.  Beat  it  well  with  your  rollinor-pin ;  season  with  salt  ana 
keep  the  lean  and  fat  separate.  Raise  common  crust  either  in  a 
round  or  oval  form ;  put  a  layer  of  lean  and  then  a  layer  of  fat,  or 
mix  your  fat  and  lean,  and  so  on  till  you  have  filled  the  pie  to  the 
top;  lay  on  the  lid,  cut  the  edge  smoothly  round,  and  pinch  it  close. 
Bake  in  a  slow  oven,  as  the  meat  is  very  solid.  Do  not  put  any 
water  or  bone  into  pork  pies.  The  outside  pieces  will  be  hard  unleas 
they  are  cut  sn)all  and  pressed  close.     See  raised  crust,  490. 

515.  Lamb  Pie. — Make  it  of  the  breast,  neck,  or  loin ;  it  should 
not  be  seasoned  much  with  salt  and  pepper;  the  bone  taken  out,  but 
not  the  gristles ;  a  small  quantity  of  jelly  gravy  should  be  put  in  hot; 
put  two  spoonfuls  of  water  before  bakincr.  This  pie  should  not  he 
cut  until  cold.  House  lamb  is  one  of  the  most  delicate  things  that 
can  be  eaten.  Grass  lamb  makes  an  excellent  pie,  and  may  either 
be  boned  or  not,  but  not  to  bone  it  is  perhaps  the  bpst.  Season  with 
only  pepper  and  salt;  put  two  spoonfuls  of  water  before  baking,  and 
as  much  gravy  when  taken  out  of  the  oven.  Meat  pies  being  fat,  it 
is  best  to  pour  out  the  liquor  on  one  side,  take  the  fat  off,  and  put  it 
in  again  and  a  litiie  more  to  it  (by  means  of  a  funnel),  at  the  top. 

516.  Mutton  Pie. — Take  steaks  from  the  loin  "or  neck  of  mutton 
that  has  been  kept  some  time  hanging ;  beat  them  and  cut  off  soma 
of  the  fat;  add  pepper,  salt,  and  a  small  onion;  put  a  litiie  water  at 
the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  paste  on  the  edge,  put  in  the  steaks,  and 
cover  it  over  with  rather  a  thick  crust.  If  you  make  raised  smal) 
pics,  break  the  bones  in  two;  season  and  cover  them  over,  pinch  the 
edges.  When  baked,  pour  into  each  a  little  gravy  made  of  mutton, 
seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  small  hit  of  onion. 

.517.  Chicken  Pie. — Take  two  young  fowls,  cut  them  up  and  season 
them  with  salt,  a  little  mace,  nutmeg,  and  white  pepper  very  finely 
powdered  ;  add  a  small  bit  of  cayenne.  Put  the  chickens,  force  meat 
balls,  slices  of  ham  or  gammon,  and  hard  eggs,  in  turn  by  layers.  If 
they  are  to  be  made  into  raised  pies,  add  no  water;  if  in  a  dish,  put 
a  little  at  the  bottom.  Make  gravy  of  the  scrag  or  a  knuckle  of  veal, 
with  some  shank  bones  of  mutton,  seasoned  with  mace,  white  pepper, 
an  onion,  a  small  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  a  little  salt.  Add  morels, 
truffles,  mushrooms,  and  so  forth,  if  eaten  hot;  but  not,  if  eaten  cold. 
Should  you  make  this  pie  in  a  dish,  put  as  much  gravy  as  it  will  hold; 
but  if  in  a  raised  crust  the  gravy  must  be  strained,  and  then  put  w 
cold,  as  jelly.  Make  the  jelly  clear  by  boiling  with  it  the  whites  of 
two  eggs  well  beaten;  take  away  the  meat  previous  to  adding  the 
whites;  strain  it  through  a  muslin  sieve. 

Young  Rabbits  are  prepared  in  the  same  way ;  their  legs  should 
be  cut  short,  and  the  breast-bones  must  not  be  put  in  ;  they  will  help 
to  make  the  gravy. 

519.  G-iblet  Pie. — Nicely  clean  goose  or  duck  giblets;  stew  them 
in  a  little  water  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  black  pepper,  onion,  a 
little  salt,  till  nearly  done;  let  them  stand  till  cold.     If  you  have  not 


PIES,     TARTS,      AND     PUFFS.  141 

enough  to  fill  the  dish,  put  a  veal  or  beef-steak,  or  two  or  three  mut- 
ton chops,  at  the  bottom.  Put  the  liquor  that  you  have  stewed  your 
giblets  in  into  the  dish ;  put  in  the  giblets,  and  when  baked,  pour  into 
it  a  tea-cup  full  of  cream. 

520.  Green  Goose  Pie. — Pluck  and  singe  two  young  green  geese 
of  a  good  size ;  bone  them  and  wash ;  season  them  well  with  allspice, 
mace,  pepper,  and  salt.  Put  one  inside  the  other  and  press  them  as 
close  as  you  can,  drawing  the  legs  inwards.  Butter  them  well,  and 
bake  either  with  or  without  crust.  If  made  a  pie  of,  the  cover  must 
fit  the  dish  close,  to  keep  the  steam  in.  It  will  keep  many  days. 
Gravy-jelly  may  be  put  in  when  served. 

521.  Staffordshire  Goose  Pies. — Bone,  wash,  and  season  the  birds 
with  allspice,  mace,  pepper,  and  salt.  Put  rather  a  small  turkey  in- 
side a  goose,  duck,  fowl,  and  then  less  birds,  tongue  or  force  meat. 
Force  meat  may  fill  up  the  spaces  between  the  crust  and  fowls,  and 
be  omitted  within.  Ornament  the  crust,  and  put  a  knob  or  flower  at 
the  top  by  which  to  lift  it,  as  it  must  not  be  cut,  but  kept  to  cover  the 
pie.  A  less  expensive  and  smaller  pie  may  be  made  by  omitting  the 
goose  and  turkey.  All  pies  made  of  white  meats  or  fowls  are  im- 
proved by  a  layer  of  fine  sausage  meat. 

522.  Hare  Pie  to  cut  cold — Cut  up  the  hare  ;  season  it;  and  bake 
it  with  force  meat  and  egg^  in  a  raised  crust  or  dish.  When  served, 
cut  off  the  lid,  and  cover  it  with  jelly-gravy. 

523.  Partridge  Pie. — Pick  and  singe  four  partridges ;  cut  off  the 
legs  at  the  knees ;  season  them  with  chopped  parsley,  thyme,  mush- 
room?,  pepper,  and  salt.  Put  a  slice  of  ham  and  a  veal  cutlet  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  dish  ;  put  the  partridges  in,  and  half  a  pint  of  good  broth. 
Put  puff  paste  on  the  edge  of  the  dish ;  cover  it ;  brush  it  over  with 
eggs  ;  and  bake  an  hour. 

524.  A  French  Pie. — Lay  a  puff  paste  on  the  edge  of  a  dish  ;  put 
into  it  either  chickens  jointed,  veal  in  slices,  or  rabbits,  with  force 
meat  balls,  sweetbreads  cut  in  pieces,  a  few  truffles,  and  artichoke 
bottoms. 

525.  Pigeon  Pie. — Rub  the  pigeons  with  salt  and  pepper,  inside 
and  out ;  put  a  bit  of  butter  inside,  and,  if  approved,  some  parsley  chop- 
ped fine,  with  the  livers,  salt,  and  pepper.  Lay  a  beef-steak  at  the 
bottom  of  the  dish,  and  place  the  birds  on  it.  Between  every  two  a 
hard  egg.  Lay  a  bit  of  ham  on  each  pigeon  ;  put  a  cup  of  water  at 
the  bottom  of  the  dish.  When  ham  is  cut  for  pies  or  gravy,  take  the 
under  part  rather  tiian  the  prime.  Season  the  gizzards  and  two  joints 
of  the  wings,  and  place  them  in  the  middle  of  the  pie ;  and  over  them, 
in  a  hole  made  in  the  crust,  three  feet,  nicely  cleaned,  to  show  what 
pie  it  is. 

526.  Squab  Pie. — Cut  apples,  and  lay  them  in  rows,  with  mutton 
chops,  a  little  sugar,  and  an  onion ;  cut  fine,  and  put  among  them. 

527.  Duck  Pie. — Bone  a  fowl  and  a  full-grown  duck  ;  wash  them, 
season  with  a  small  quantity  of  mace  and  allspice,  in  the  finest  pow- 
der, with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  the  fowl  within  the  duck.  Put  a 
calf's  tongue,  pickled  red,  boiled  very  tender,  and  skinned,  into  the 

12 


142  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

fowl;  press  the  whole  closo.  The  skins  of  the  legs  should  be  drawn 
inwards,  that  the  body  of  the  fowl  may  be  quite  smooth.  The  apaco 
between  the  sides  of  the  crust  and  fowl  may  be  filled  with  a  fine  forco 
meat,  if  approved. 

Bake  it  in  a  slow  oven,  either  in  a  raised  crust  or  dish,  with  a  thick 
crust  ornamented. 

528.  Rabbit  Pie. — Cut  up  two  young  rabbits ;  take  a  pound  of  fat 
pork,  that  has  been  in  pickle  a  week ;  cut  it  into  small  bits;  season  it 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  into  a  dish.  Parboil  the  livers  and 
brains,  and  beat  them  in  a  mortar  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat 
bacon  or  ham  ;  add  mace,  salt,  pepper  and  sweet  herbs,  chopped  fine. 
Make  this  into  small  balls,  and  distribute  in  the  dish,  with  artichoke 
bottoms,  cut  in  dice.  Grate  half  a  small  nutmeg  over,  and  add  half  a 
pint  of  port,  and  the  same  quantity  of  water.  Cover  with  a  tolerably 
thick  crust,  and  bake  it  an  hour  in  a  quick  oven. 

529.  Vegetable  Pie. — Cut  young-  carrots,  artichoke  bottoms,  let- 
tuces, mushrooms,  turnips,  broad  beans,  scalded  and  blanciied,  onions, 
celery,  parsley,  and  add  peas.  Or  use  any  of  them  you  may  chance 
to  have.  Make  them  into  a  stew,  with  some  good  veal  gravy ;  sea- 
son with  salt  and  {>epper.  Bake  a  crust  over  a  dish,  with  some  paste 
over  the  edge,  and  a  cup  turned  bottom  upwards,  to  prevent  its  sink- 
ing when  baked.  Pour  the  stew  into  the  dish,  and  lay  the  crust  over 
it.  Winter  vegetables  may  be  used  in  the  same  way.  A  cup  of  cream 
is  a  great  improvement, 

530.  An  Herb  Pie. — Take  one  handful  of  spinach,  two  handfulsof 
parsley,  from  the  stems,  some  mustard  and  cress,  two  lettuces,  a  few 
leaves  of  borage,  and  white  beat  leaves.  Wash  and  boil  them  a  little, 
and  then  drain  out  all  the  water;  cut  them  small;  mix,  and  lay  in  a 
dish ;  sprinkle  with  some  salt ;  mix  a  batter  with  two  eggs  well  beaten, 
a  pint  of  cream,  and  half  a  pint  of  milk,  as  much  flour  as  will  bring  it 
to.  a  paste  not  very  thick,  and  pour  it  on  the  herbs;  cover  with  a  good 
crust,  and  bake. 

531.  To  prepare  Venison  for  Pasty. — Take  the  bones  out;  season 
and  beat  the  meat ;  lay  it  in  a  stone  jar  in  large  pieces  ;  pour  upon  it 
some  plain  drawn  beef  gravy,  rather  weak.  Put  the  bones  on  the 
top  ;  then  set  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  ;  simmer  between 
three  and  four  hours.  Put  it  in  a  cold  place  until  next  day.  Then 
remove  the  cake  of  fat.  Lay  the  meat  in  handsome  pieces  on  a  dish. 
Put  some  of  the  gravy  in,  and  keep  the  remainder  for  the  time  of 
serving.  Venison  thus  prepared  will  require  less  time  in  baking,  and 
a  thinner  crust. 

532.  Venison  Pasty. — A  boned  and  skinned  shoulder  makes  a  good 
j)asty.  It  must  be  beaten  and  seasoned.  Add  the  fat  of  a  loin  of 
mutton,  well  hung,  as  the  shoulder  is  lean.  Steep  twenty-four  hours 
in  equal  parts  of  vinegar  and  port.  Rub  the  shoulder  well  with  sugar 
for  two  or  three  days,  as  it  is  sinewy.  Wipe  it  clean  from  the  sugar 
and  wine  when  it  is  used.  Either  in  the  shoulder  or  side  the  meat 
must  be  cut  in  pieces,  and  laid  with  fat  between,  that  it  may  be  pro- 
portioned to  each  person,  without  breaking  up  the  pasty  to  find  it. 


PASTRY.  14.'1 

Dust  some  salt  and  peppor  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  put  a  bit  of  but 
ter ;  then  the  meat,  nicely  paci<ed,  so  as  not  to  be  hollow.     Bake  be-j 
tween  three  and  four  hours  in  a  slow  oven.  Take  some  fine  old  mutton, , 
and  boil  with  the  bones  of  the  venison  to  make  gravy :  season  it  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  mace;  put  half  a  pint  of  this  gravy,  cold,  into 
the  dish  ;  butter  the  venison;  line  the  sides  of  the  dish  with  a  thick^ 
paste ;    lay  a  thick  crust  over  the  top.      Put  the  remainder  of  the , 
gravy,  hot  (when  it  is  baked,)  into  it,  with  a  funnel,  through  the  hole 
at  the  top. 

533.  To  make  a  Pasty  of  Beef  or  Mutton,  to  eat  as  well  as  Veni- 
son.— Bone  a  sirloin,  or  a  small  rump  of  beef,  or  a  fat  loin  of  mutton, 
after  hanging  several  days;  beat  it  well  with  a  rolling-pin;  then  rub 
ten  pounds  of  meat  with  four  ounces  of  sugar ;  then  pour  over  it  a 
glass  of  vinegar,  and  a  glass  of  port  wine.  Let  it  lie  five  days  and 
then  wash  and  wipe  the  meat  very  dry,  and  season  it  very  hign  with 
salt,  Jamaica  pepper,  nutmeg,  &c.  To  ten  pounds  of  meat,  one  pound, 
or  nearly,  of  butter  ;  spread  it  over  the  meat.  Lay  it  in  the  dish.  Put 
a  crust  round  the  edges,  rather  thick,  and  cover.  It  must  be  baked  ia 
a  slow  oven.  Put  the  bones  in  a  pan  in  the  oven,  with  no  more  wa^ 
ter  than  will  cover  them,  and  one  glass  of  port  wine,  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  in  order  that  you  may  have  a  little  rich  gravy  to  add  to  the 
pasty  when  baked.  Put  it  in  the  pie,  through  a  funnel,  at  the  top  of 
the  pasty.  Sugar  gives  shortness  and  better  flavour  to  meat  thaa 
salt  (too  great  a  quantity  of  salt  hardens  it,)  and  is  quite  as  good  a 
preservative,  except  from  flies. 

534.  Apple  Pie. — Wipe  the  outside  of  some  apples,  pare,  and  core 
them  ;  boil  the  parings  and  cores  in  a  little  water  till  it  tastes  well ; 
strain,  and  put  a  bit  of  bruised  lemon,  a  little  sugar  and  cinnamon, 
and  simmer  again.  Put  a  paste  round  the  edge  of  the  dish  ;  place  the 
apples  in  it;  when  one  layer  is  made,  sprinkle  half  the  sugar,  shred 
lemon  peel,  and  squeeze  some  juice,  or  a  glass  of  cider.  Put  in  the 
liquor  that  you  have  boiled.  Cover  with  paste.  Add  butter  when  cut, 
it'  hot.  To  flavour  the  pie  you  may  add  quince,  marmalade,  orange 
paste,  or  cloves,  to  flavour. 

535.  Cherry  Pie  should  have  a  mixture  of  currants  or  raspberries, 
or  both. 

530.  Currant  Pie. — With  or  without  raspberries. 

537.  Mince  Pies. — Of  scraped  beef  or  tongue,  free  froiri  skin  and 
string,  two  pounds,  four  pounds  of  beef  suet  chopped  fine,  two  pounds 
of  jar  raisins  stoned  and  chopped,  six  pounds  of  currants  nicely 
cleaned,  perfectly  dry,  of  chopped  apples  three  pounds,  the  peel  and 
juice  of  two  lemons,  a  pint  of  sweet  wine,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  brandy, 
a  nutmeg,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cloves,  the  same  of  mace,  the  same 
of  pimento,  in  fine  powders.  Press  the  whole  into  a  deep  pan  when 
well  mixed,  and  keep  it  covered  in  a  cool  place.  Have  orange,  and 
lemon  peel,  and  citron,  ready,  and  put  some  of  each  in  the  pies  when 
made.  Half,  or  a  quarter  of  the  quantity  may  be  made,  unless  for  a 
very  large  family. 

638.  Tarte  de  Moie. — Put  a  light  paste  into  a  dish,  then  layers  of 


144  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

all  kinds  of  sweetmeats,  biscuits,  marrow,  and  butter.  Add  a  mode- 
rately rich  custard,  not  verj'  sweet,  and  seasoned  with  orange  liower 
water;  give  it  a  scald,  and  pour  over  the  whole.  It  will  take  half 
an  hour  to  bake.     Turn  it  out.     It  is  good  hot  or  cold. 

539.  Rhubarb  Tart. — Take  the  skin  otf  the  rhubarb,  and  cut  tho 
stalks  in  lengths  of  four  or  five  inches.  Make  a  syrup  for  a  quart 
basin.  Take  a  pound  of  common  lump  sugar;  boil  it  in  nearly  half  a 
pint  of  water  to  a  thin  syrup;  skim  it,  and  put  in  the  rhubarb,  and  as 
it  simmers  shake  the  pan  over  the  fire.  It  will  turn  yellow  at  first, 
but  keep  it  very  gently  simmering  till  it  greens,  and  then  take  it  off. 
When  cold,  put  in  a  tart  dish,  with  as  much  syrup  as  will  make  it 
very  moist.  Put  a  light  crust -over,  and  when  that  is  done,  the  tart 
will  be  sufficiently  baked.  Quarter  the  crust,  and  fill  the  dish  with 
custard  or  cream. 

540.  To  prepare  Cranberries  for  Tarts.  —  Simmer  them  in  moist 
sugar,  without  breaking,  twenty  minutes;  and  let  them  become  cold 
before  used  ;  a  pint  will  require  nearly  three  ounces  of  sugar.  Tlie 
Russian  and  American  sorts  are  larger  and  better  flavoured  than  tho.-e 
of  England.  The  juice,  when  pressed  from  the  baked  fruit  and 
sweetened,  makes  a  fine  drink  in  fevers.  Stewed  with  sugar,  they 
eat  exceedingly  nice  with  bread. 

541.  Lemon  Tart. — Take  the  rind  of  four  lemons,  pared  rather 
thick,  boil  it  in  water  till  tender,  and  beat  fine.  Add  to  it  four  ounces 
of  lump  sugar,  four  ounces  of  blanched  almonds  cut  thin,  the  juice  of 
the  lemon,  and  a  little  grated  peel.  Simmer  to  a  syrup;  when  cold 
turn  it  into  a  shallow  tin,  lined  with  a  thin  rich  puff  paste,  and  lay 
bars  of  the  same  over.     As  soon  as  the  paste  is  baked,  take  it  out. 

542.  Orange  Tartlets  or  Puffs.  —  Line  patty-pans ;  when  baked, 
put  in  orange  marmalade  made  with  apple  jelly. 

543.  Fried  Patties. — Mince  a  bit  of  cold  veal  and  six  oysters  with 
a  few  crumbs  of  bread,  nutmeg,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  small  bit  of  lemon 
peel;  add  the  liquor  of  the  oysters;  warm  all  in  the  tosser,  but  do 
not  boil  it;  let  it  get  cold.  Make  a  good  puft'  paste,  roll  thin,  and 
cut  it  in  round  or  square  bits ;  put  the  meat  between  two  of  them, 
pinch  the  edge  to  keep  in  the  gravy,  and  fry  them  of  a  fine  brown. 
This  is  a  very  good  thing  —  and  baked,  is  a  fashionable  dish.  Wash 
all  patties  over  with  egg  before  baking. 

544.  Oyster  Patties.— Fai  a  fine  puff  paste  into  small  patty-pans; 
put  a  bit  of  bread  in  each,  and  cover  with  paste ;  bake  them;  and  in 
the  mean  time  make  ready  the  oysters.  Take  off  the  beards  of  the 
oysters ;  cut  the  other  parts  in  small  bits,  put  them  in  a  small  tosser, 
with  a  grate  of  nutmeg,  a  little  white  peppnr  and  salt,  a  bit  of  lemon 
chopped  very  fine,  a  little  cream,  and  a  little  of  the  oyster  liquor; 
take  the  bread  out  of  the  patties,  and  fill  them,  after  simmering  them 
a  few  minutes.  Observe  to  put  a  bit  of  bread  into  all  the  patties,  to 
keep  them  hollow  while  baking. 

545.  Beef  Patties.  —  Cut  very  fine  some  underdone  beef  with  a 
little  fat,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  onion  or  eschalot 
Make  plain  paste,  thin,  in  an  oval  shape;  fill  it  with  minco,  pinch 


PUDDINGS,     CHEESECAKES,     &C.  145 

tJie  edges,  and  fry  them  of  a  fine  brown.     The  paste  should  be  made 
with  a  small  quantity  of  butter,  egg,  and  milk. 

546.  A  good  Mince  for  Patties.  —  Two  ounces  of  ham,  four  of 
chicken  or  veal,  one  egg  boiled  hard,  a  blade  of  mace,  salt,  and  pep- 
per, three  cloves  in  powder.  Just  before  you  serve,  warm  it  with 
four  spoonfuls  of  rich  gravy,  four  spoonfuls  of  cream,  and  an  ounce 
of  butter:  fill  as  usual. 

547.  Apple  Puffs. — Pare  and  core  the  fruit,  and  either  stew  them 
in  a  stone  jar,  or  bake  them.  When  cold,  mix  the  pulp  of  the  apple 
with  sugar  and  lemon  peel  shred  fine,  taking  as  little  of  the  apple 
juice  as  you  can.  Bake  them  in  a  thin  paste,  in  a  quick  oven ;  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  will  do  them,  if  small.  Orange  or  quince  mar- 
malade is  a  great  improvement;  cinnamon  pounded,  or  orange  flower 
water,  in  change. 

548.  Lemon  Puffs. — Beat  and  sift  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  double 
refined  sugar,  grate  the  rind  of  two  large  lemons  and  mix  it  with  the 
sugar;  then  beat  the  whites  of  three  new-laid  eggs  a  long  time,  add 
them  to  the  sugar  and  peel,  and  beat  them  for  an  hour.  Make  it  up 
in  any  shape  you  please,  and  bake  them  on  ^aper ;  put  on  tin  plates, 
in  a  moderate  oven.  Do  not  remove  the  paper  till  cold.  Oiling  the 
paper  will  make  it  come  off"  with  ease. 

549.  Excellent  light  Puffs.  —  Mix  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  half  a 
spoonful  of  brandy,  one  egg,  a  little  grated  lemon  peel,  a  little  loaf- 
sugar,  some  nutmeg;  then  fry,  but  not  brown;  beat  it  in  a  mortar 
with  five  eggs;  put  a  quantity  of  lard  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  quite 
hot,  drop  a  dessert  spoonful  of  batter  at  a  time ;  turn  as  they  brown, 
Serve  them  immediately  with  sweet  sauce. 

550.  Cheese  Puffs.  —  Strain  cheese  curd  from  the  whey,  and  beat 
half  a  pint  of  it  fine  in  a  mortar,  with  three  eggs,  a  spoonful  and  a 
half  of  flour,  only  one  white  of  the  eggs,  a  quarter  of  a  nutmeg,  orange 
flower  water,  and  sugar  to  make  it  sweet.  Put  a  little  of  this  paste 
in  very  small  round  cakes  on  a  tin  plate.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  will 
bake  them,  if  the  oven  is  hot.     Serve  with  pudding  sauce. 

PUDDINGS,    CHEESECAKES,    &,c. 

The  first  thing  to  be  learnt,  with  regard  to  making  puddings,  is 
the  composition  of  the  batter.  Without  good  batter,  you  cannot  have 
good  pudding ;  and  without  good  eggs,  flour,  and  milk,  you  cannot 
have  either.  For  all  kinds  of  puddings  and  pastry,  it  is  of  great  im- 
portance that  your  flour  should  be  of  the  very  best  quality.  Your 
milk  too  should  be  good.  The  goodness  or  badness  o/  milk  depends 
much  on  the  kind  of  food  upon  which  the  cow  is  fed ;  hnl  cows  fed 
upon  the  same  food  do  not  yield  milk  of  the  same  quality.  A  cow 
that  gives  a  large  quantity  of  milk  does  not  always  produ^  a  propor- 
tionate quantity  of  cream,  and  of  course  poor  milk  will  not  make  so 
good  a  pudding  as  rich.  Flour  is  not  the  better  for  being  fresh 
ground,  as  Dr.  Kitchiner  intimates,  but  on  the  contrary.  It  should, 
however,  be  perfectly  sweet.  The  goodness  of  well-manufactured 
12* 


146  THE     COMPLETE      COOK. 

flour  depends  upon  the  quality  of  the  wheat  from  which  it  is  made. 
Without  good  wheat  you  can  have  no  good  flour.  In  one  word,  to 
ensure  a  good  pudding,  your  eggs  must  be  new  laid,  your  butter 
rich  and  fresh,  your  flour  of  the  first  quality,  and  all  your  ingredients 
of  the  same  character.  In  the  making  of  a  pudding — a.  good  pudding 
—the  cook  must  observe  the  utmost  cleanliness,  both  as  respects  her- 
self and  the  utensils  which  she  uses.  The  eggs  directed  to  be  used 
in  the  following  receipts  are  full-sized  hen  eggs ;  if  pullet  eggs  are 
used,  two  will  be  required  for  one  hen  egg.  There  is  no  substitute, 
that  we  know  of,  for  eggs  in  pudding  making.  We  have  heard  male 
said  female  old  women  talk  about  using,  as  substitutes  for  eggs,  snow 
and  small  beer.  Dr.  Kitchiner  says,  truly,  "  that  they  will  no  more 
answer  this  purpose  than  as  substitutes  for  sugar  or  brandy."  Batter 
puddings  in  all  their  varieties  are  composed  of  milk,  eggs,  and  flour. 
As  has  been  properly  observed,  "  the  proportions  may  vary,  and  other 
articles  may  be  added,  by  which  the  name  is  changed,  but  the  great 
matter  is  to  know  how  to  mix  eggs,  flour,  and  milk,  and  then  yoa 
may  easily  adopt  any  variety  that  is  directed."  In  using  eggs,  you 
should  always  break  them,  one  by  one,  into  separate  cups,  or  at  any 
rate  take  care  not  to  spoil  all  your  eggs  by  the  admission  of  one  that 
is  bad  into  the  mass.  Let  the  eggs  be  well  beaten,  and  then  add  the 
flour,  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  little  nutmeg,  and  mix  the  eggs  and 
flour  thoroughly  before  any  milk  is  added  ;  then  by  degrees  put  in  as 
much  milk  as  will  bring  the  batter  to  the  consistency  you  wish.  It 
ought,  indeed  it  must  be,  well  stirred  immediately  before  being  put 
into  the  basin  or  dish. 

The  vessel  in  which  a  batter  pudding  is  to  be  dressed  must  be  well 
buttered.  Dripping,  or  lard,  will  answer  as  well  for  a  baked  pud- 
ding. The  cloth  tied  over  the  basin  must  be  buttered,  or  dipped  in 
boiling  water,  wrung  out,  and  dredged  with  flour,  but  buttering 
is  best. 

The  pudding  will  break  in  boiling,  if  the  batter  do  not  exactly  fill 
the  vessel.  In  baking,  the  pudding  is  sure  to  swell  considerably,  and 
therefore  the  batter  should  not  fill  the  vessel  by  about  an  inch.  Be- 
fore putting  the  pudding  into  the  pot,  take  care  that  the  water  boils 
rapidly,  and  afterwards  make  the  water  boil  as  soon  as  possible,  which 
must  be  kept  up  till  the  pudding  is  done.  Just  after  putting  the  pud- 
ding into  the  pot,  it  should  be  shook  two  or  three  times  to  prevent  it 
settling. 

The  length  of  time  that  a  pudding  requires  to  be  boiled  depends 
upon  its  size,  and,  in  some  degree,  upon  the  material  of  which  it  is 
made.  The  less  flour,  the  shorter  time  is  required  for  boiling.  A 
one-egg  pudding,  not  exceeding  three  parts  of  half  a  pint  in  quantity, 
in  a  tea-cup,  will  require  about  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes  boiling; 
or  with  three  eggs  about  half  an  hour;  and  so  on  in  proportion.  But 
the  best  way  of  ascertaining  when  a  pudding  is  done,  is  to  run  your 
fork  into  the  middle  of  it,  and  if  the  fork  comes  out  cZear,  the  pudding 
is  done. 

551.  To  make  Pudding  Paste. — Beat  one  egg,  mix  it  with  half  & 


PUDDINGS,     CHEESECAKES,   &C.  147 

pound  of  suet,  well  chopped,  add  one  pound  of  flour ;  well  mix ,  then 
add  as  much  cold  water  as  is  requisite  to  bring  it  to  a  stiff'  paste  ; 
flour  the  pie-board  and  rolling-pin,  and  beat  the  paste  till  it  puffs  up; 
roll  it  out  to  the  size  desired,  and  put  in  the  fruit.  If  boiled  in  a 
basin,  it  should  be  well  buttered,  and  the  cloth  well^  floured  before 
tying  it  over.  This  paste  is  used  for  all  kind  of  fresh  fruit.  A  very 
small  quantity  of  sugar  should  be  put  in  with  the  fruit  to  draw  the 
juice,  but  not  much,  or  it  will  become  so  juicy  as  to  by.rst  the  crust. 
A  fruit  pudding  is  lighter  boiled  in  a  cloth,  but  it  should  be  well 
secured  to  prevent  the  juice  from  escaping.  An  hour  and  a  half  will 
boil  a  pudding  of  this  size,  if  boiled  in  a  cloth ;  if  in  a  basin,  allow 
another  quarter  of  an  hour  or  twenty  minutes.  The  same  paste  will 
do  for  a  roll  pudding  and  meat  puddings. 

552.  Flum  Pudding. — To  make  a  rich  plum  pudding  take  a  pound 
of  marrow,  or  suet,  well  chopped,  a  pound  of  fine  flour  tlried,  eight  or 
ten  eggs  beaten  well ;  half  a  nutmeg  grated;  as  much  mace,  cinnamon, 
and  gmger,  all  powdered  very  fine ;"  a  pinch  of  salt ;  mix  these  well 
together,  and  beat  up  into  a  batter;  then  add  one  pound  of  currants,  one 
pound  of  raisins,  stoned  and  chopped  a  little;  the  currants  should  be 
rubbed  in  a  cloth,  and  well  picked,  or  well  wash  and  dry  them ;  two 
ounces  of  candied  citron  peel,  or  part  lemon,  and  orange,  cut  small ;  and 
two  ounces  of  sweet  almonds,  blanched  and  cut  up  in  bits;  two  ounces 
of  loaf-sugar  grated ;  then  add  these  to  the  batter,  and  put  in  a  wine- 
glass of  brandy ;  well  mix  them  together.  It  may  be  boiled  in  a  but- 
tered basin  or  mould  ;  if  the  batter  should  be  too  stiff,  put  a  glass  of 
white  wine  in  it.  It  will  take  four  or  five  hours  boiling.  Strew  over 
it  powdered  loaf-sugar;  garnish  with  sliced  lemon.  Sauce,  contain- 
ing half  a  glass  of  best  brandy,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  a  little  rind  of 
lemon  grated,  and  a  little  powdered  cinnamon,  half  an  ounce  of  grated 
loaf-sugar,  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  very  thick  melted  butter. 
It  is  a  good  plan  to  make  and  keep  by  you  a  little  of  this  sauce,  and 
then  it  is  ready  at  any  time.  In  a  bottle  containing  a  pint  of  sherry, 
and  half  a  pint  of  best  brandy,  add  two  ounces  of  loaf-sugar,  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  mace,  half  an  ounce  of  shaved  lemon  rind,  with  kernels 
of  apricots,  peaches,  and  nectarines,  and  steep  in  a  little  white  wine; 
when  steeped,  pour  it  off  clear,  and  put  to  the  wine  and  brandy ;  and 
add  half  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  capillaire.  Two  table-spoonfuls  of  this 
sauce  will  flavour  a  boat-full  of  thick  melted  butter. 

553.  A  plain  family  Plum  Pudding. — Beat  up  three  eggs,  six 
ounces  of  suet  chopped,  a  pound  of  flour,  a  third  part  of  a  pound  of 
raisins,  and  the  same  weight  of  currants;  one  ounce  of  candied  orange 
or  lemon  peel,  cut  small,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  ground  allspice,  a  little 
salt,  two  ounces  of  brown  sugar:  make  a  stiff  batter  with  water,  and 
mix  the  fruit  and  spice  well  in.  If  boiled  in  a  basin,  allow  three  hours 
and  a  hah";  if  in  a  cloth,  three  hours. 

554.  A  common  Plum  or  Currant  Pudding  is  nothing  more  than 
a  suet  pudding,  with  the  addition  of  plums,  or  currants,  and  allspice, 

555.  Very  light  Plum  Pudding. — Mix  grated  bread,  suet,  and 
stoned  raisins,  four  ounces  each,  with  two  well-beaten  eggs  three  or 


148  THE    COMPLETE    COOK. 

four  spoonfuls  of  milk,  and  a  little  salt:  boil  four  hours.     Sauc^,  a 
spoonful  of  brandy,  sugar,  and  nutme<r,  in  melted  butter. 

556.  National  Plum  Pudding. — Mix  suet,  jar  raisins,  and  cur- 
rants, one  pound  each,  four  ounces  of  crumbs  of  bread,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  suu^ar,  one  table-spoonful  of  grated  lemon  peel,  half  a 
nutmeg,  a  small  blade  of  mace,  a  tea-spoonful  of  ginger,  and  six  well- 
beaten  eggs.  Boil  it  five  hours. — IS.  B.  If  you  want  to  keep  plum 
puddings  good  for  a  long  time,  say  some  months,  hang  them  in  a  cold 
place  in  the^loth  in  which  they  were  boiled.  When  wanted  to  ba 
used,  take  them  out  of  the  cloth,  cover  them  with  a  clean  one,  and 
warm  them  through  with  hot  water;  they  will  then  be  fit  for  the 
table. 

557.  Potatoe  Pudding. — Boil  mealy  potatoes  in  their  skins,  accord- 
ing to  the  rule  laid  down,  skin  and  mash  them  with  a  little  milk,  pep- 
per, and  salt:  this  will  make  a  good  pudding  to  bake  under  roast  meat. 
With  the  addition  of  a  bit  of  butter,  an  egg,  milk,  pepper,  and  salt, 
it  makes  an  excellent  batter  for  a  meat  pudding  baked.  Grease  a 
baking  dish  ;  put  a  layer  of  potatoes,  then  a  layer  of  meat  cut  in  bits, 
and  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  a  little  allspice,  either  with  or  with- 
out chopped  onions;  a  little  gravy  of  roast  meat  is  a  great  improve- 
ment: then  put  another  layer  of  potatoes,  then  meat,  and  cover  with 
potatoes.  Put  a  buttered  paper  over  the  top  to  prevent  it  from  being 
burnt,  and  bake  it  an  hour  or  an  hour  and  a  half. 

558.  Cottage  Potatoe  Pudding. — Two  pounds  of  mashed  potatoes 
rubbed  through  a  colander,  two  or  three  eggs  well  beaten,  two  ounces 
of  moist  sugar,  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  milk,  a  little  nutmeg  and 
salt,  three  ounces  of  raisins,  or  currants.  It  is  very  good  without  the 
fruit,  and  will  take  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to  bake.  Omitting  the 
milk  and  adding  three  ounces  of  butter,  it  makes  a  very  nice  cake. 

559.  For  a  rich  sweet  Potatoe  Pudding. — Rub  a  pound  of  potatoe 
meal  through  a  colander;  add  half  a  pint  of  cream,  nutmeg,  cinna- 
mon, and  from  two  to  four  ounces  of  loaf-sugar,  from  two  to  four 
ounces  of  fresh  butter  or  marrow,  from  three  to  six  eggs,  two  ounces 
of  sweet  almonds,  blanched  and  cut,  one  ounce  of  candied  citron,  cut 
small,  a  few  dried  currants,  a  spoonful  of  ratafia  or  brandy :  put  a 
crust  round  the  edge  of  the  dish  and  entirely  line  the  dish :  if  baked, 
put  in  the  batter,  bake,  and  when  it  is  brown,  it  is  done.  Only 
substituting  potatoe  for  flour,  a  very  good  family  plum  pudding  may 
be  made,  but  it  should  be  baked. 

560.  Carrot  Pudding.— Gr Bite  a  raw  red  carrot;  mix  with  double 
the  weight  of  bread  crumbs,  or  Naples  biscuit,  or  part  of  each;  to  a 
oound  and  a  half  put  half  a  pint  of  new  milk  or  cream. 

561.  A  Black-cap  Pudding.— Ruh  three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour 
^'mooth  by  degrees  into  a  pint  of  milk,  strain  it,  and  simmer  it  over 
the  fire  until  it  thickens;  stir  in  tvvp  ounces  of  butter ;  when  cold, 
add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  well  beaten  and  strained,  and  half  a  pound 
of  currants  rubbed  and  picked ;  put  the  latter  into  a  cloth  well  but- 
tered, tie  it  tight,  and  plunge  it  into  boiling  water ;  keep  it  in  motion 
for  five  minutes,  that  it  may  be  well  mixed. 


PUDDINGS,     CHEESECAKES,    &:C  14l9 

562.  Sago  Pudding. — Boil  a  pint  and  a  half  of  new  milk  with 
four  spoonfuls  of  sago  nicely  washed  and  picked,  lemon  peel,  cinna 
mon,  nutmeg;  sweeten  to  taste,  then  mix  four  eggs;  put  a  paste 
round  the  dish,  and  bake  slowly, 

563.  A  very  good  Pudding. — Mix  one  pound  and  a  half  of  suet, 
cut  small,  and  free  from  skin,  with  two  pounds  of  flour,  a  pound  of 
currants  picked  and  rubbed  in  a  coarse  cloth,  six  eggs  well  beaten,  a 
table-spoonful  of  infusion  of  saffi-on,  a  glass  of  brandy,  a  little  grated 
ginger,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  pint  of  milk ;  put  it  into  a  basin  that 
will'  just  hold  it,  tie  a  floured  cloth  tight  over  it,  and  put  it  into  a  pot 
of  boiling  water.     Boil  it  four  hours. 

564.  Bread  and  Butler  Pudding. — Slice  bread,  and  butter  it,  and 
lay  it  in  a  dish  with  currants  between  each  layer,  and  sliced  citron, 
orange,  or  lemon  peel ;  pour  over  an  unboiled  custard  of  milk,  two  or 
three  eggs  beaten,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  a  little  ratafia  ;  two  hours 
at  least  before  it  is  baked,  to  soak  the  bread. 

565.  Almond  Pudding. — Beat  half  a  pound  of  sweet  and  a  few 
bitter  almonds  with  a  spoonful  of  water,  then  mix  four  eggs,  four 
ounces  of  butter,  two  spoonfuls  of  cream  put  warm  to  the  butter,  one 
spoonful  of  brandy,  a  little  nutmeg  and  sugar  to  taste.  Butter  some 
cups,  half  fill,  and  bake  the  puddings.  Serve  with  pudding  sauce. — 
Or,  beat  fine,  four  ounces  of  almonds,  four  or  five  bitter  almonds,  with 
a  little  wine,  yolks  of  six  eggs  beaten,  peel  of  two  lemons  grated,  six 
ounces  of  melted  butter,  nearly  a  quart  of  cream,  and  juice  of  one 
lemon.  When  well  mixed,  bake  it  half  an  hour,  with  paste  round 
the  dish. 

566.  Kitchiner^s  Pudding.  —  Beat  up  three  eggs,  strain  them 
through  a  sieve,  and  gradually  add  to  them  a  quartet  of  a  pint  of  new 
milk;  stir  them  well  together;  rub  together  in  a  mortar  two  ounces 
of  moist  sugar,  and  as  much  nutmeg  as  will  lie  on  a  sixpence  ;  stir 
these  to  the  eggs  and  milk,  then  add  four  ounces  of  flour,  and  beat  it 
to  a  smooth  batter  (the  only  way  of  doing  this  is,  by  adding  a  little 
of  the  milk,  &c.,  and  mixing  that  to  a  smooth  paste,  then  gradually 
thinning  it).  Stir  to  it  by  degrees  seven  ounces  of  suet  chopped  fine, 
and  three  ounces  of  bread  crumbs ;  mix  the  whole  half  an  hour  or 
more  before  boiling;  well  butter  a  mould  or  basin,  tie  over  a  pudding 
cloth  very  tight,  and  boil  it  three  hours.  Half  a  pound  of  muscatel 
raisins,  cut  in  half,  and  a  little  grated  lemon  peel,  will  make  the  above 
a  good  plum  pudding:  or  without  the  plums,  by  adding  half  a  pint 
more  milk,  it  bakes  well  under  meat  as  a  Yorkshire  pudding;  or  it 
may  be  baked  in  saucers  or  tin  patty-pans,  and  served  with  wine 
sauce.  An  hour  Vv'ill  bake  it  the  size  of  a  saucer. — Or,  simmer  for 
ten  minutes  half  a  pint  of  milk  with  a  roll  of  lemon  peel,  and  two 
blades  of  mace,;  strain  it  into  a  basin,  and  put  it  away  to  cool;  beat 
three  eggs  with  three  ounces  of  loaf-sugar,  the  third  part  of  a  nut- 
meg, and  three  ounces  of  flour ;  mix  well  with  the  eggs,  add  the 
milk  by  degrees;  then  three  ounces  of  butter  broken  in  bits,  three 
ounces  of  bread  crumbs,  three  ounces  of  currants  rubbed  and  picked, 
three  ounces  of  raisins  stoned  and  chopped ;  mix  all  well  together 


150  THE    COMPLETE     COOK. 

butter  ft  mould,  tie  a  cloth  tightly  over  and  boil  it  two  hours  and  a 
half.  Serve  with  melted  butter,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  brandy,  and  a 
little  loaf-sugar. 

567.  A  Dutch  Rice  Pudding-. — Soak  four  ounces  of  rice  in  warm 
water  half  an  hour,  then  drain  the  water  from  it,  and  throw  the  rice 
into  a  stew-pan,  with  half  a  pint  of  millc,  half  a  stick  of  cinnamon, 
and  simmer  till  tender;  when  cold,  put  four  whole  eggs,  well  beaten, 
two  ounces  of  butter  melted  in  a  tea-cup  full  of  cream  (or  milk  where 
cream  is  scarce  or  dear),  and  put  three  ounces  of  sugar,  a  quarter  of 
a  nutmeg,  and  a  good  piece  of  lemon  peel.  Put  a  light  puff  paste  in 
a  mould  or  dish,  or  grated  tops  and  bottoms,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven. 

568.  Rice  Puddings. — It  will  be  well  to  make  a  few  observations 
on  rice  before  we  enter  upon  rice  puddings.  Large  long  corn  which 
is  quite  white  and  clear  is  the  best ;  though  this  may  cost  a  little 
more  money,  it  will  be  f)und  the  cheapest.  Bad  rii^e  has  a  dingy  red 
and  .yellow  appearance,  and  is  dusty ;  in  this  state  it  is  almost  sure 
to  turn  the  milk  with  which  it  is  used.  The  best  rice  takes  less 
sugar  to  sweeten  it,  and  the  flavour  of  it  is  much  superior  to  the 
inferior  sort.  Good  rice  will  soon  become  tender  and  swell,  and 
when  this  is  the  case  it  is  done.  Inferior  rice  may  be  used  for  broths 
or  stews,  as  thickeners,  but  it  is  not  so  wholesome  as  the  best.  Rice 
should  be  kept  in  a  vessel  closely  shut,  and  in  a  dry  place.  It  does 
not  keep  well  after  grinding;  it  is  almost  sure  to  become  sour.  It 
should  be  ground  as  it  is  wanted. 

569.  A  Rice  Pudding. — Take  two  parts  of  a  pound  of  rice,  put  it 
in  a  cloth  or  bag  that  would  hold  three  times  the  quantity;  put  it  into 
boiling  water,  and  let  it  boil  an  hour.  Take  it  up,  and  beat  two  eggs 
and  add  to  it;  mix  and  beat  with  the  rice  a  little  sugar,  nutmeg,  and 
one  ounce  of  suet,  or  butter,  with  or  without  currants ;  flour  a  cloth 
and  tie  it  tight  in  it,  and  let  it  boil  half  an  hour.  Sauce,  boiled  milk 
with  a  little  sugar  and  nutmeg,  or  wine  sauce. 

570.  A  baked  Rice  Pudding. — The  above  may  be  used,  enriched 
by  slices  of  bread  and  butter  laid  at  the  top,  with  a  little  sugar  and 
nutmeg  strewed  over.  —  Or,  scald  the  rice  in  a  small  quantity  of 
water;  when  all  the  water  is  ab^^o-rbed  by  the  rice,  add  a  quart  of  new 
milk,  and  let  it  boil  up,  with  a  stick  of  cinnamon  for  flavour;*  beat 
three  or  four  eggs  with  fine  moist  sugar,  stir  to  them  gradually  the 
boiling  milk  and  rice  ;  add  one  ounce  of  beef  suet  or  butter  ;  when  it 
is  in  the  pan,  or  dish,  which  should  be  buttered  before  putting  in, 
grate  nutmeg  over  the  top;  put  it  in  the  oven  as  soon  as  made,  and 
bake  an  hour. 

571.  Ground  Rice  Pudding.  —  Put  on  the  fire  a  quart  of  new 
milk  ;  put  into  it  five  or  six  young  laurel  leaves,  a  stick  of  cinnamon, 
a  pinch  of  salt;  when  it  boils,  stir  into  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ground 
rice,  which  has  been  previously  wetted  with  a  little  cold  water;  stir 

♦Laurel  Ir^aves  are  iiBually  directed ;  but  they  are  decidedly  poisonojis,  and  wt 
•trongly  disapprove  of  tlie  use  of  them. 


PUDDINGS,     CHEESECAKES,    &C.  151 

till  it  boils  and  thickens.  As  if  is  apt  to  burn,  a  double  saucepan  is 
the  best  for  this  purpose.  Take  the  flavourings  out,  and  stir  into  it 
throe  or  four  eggs,  well  beaten,  with  an  ounce  of  sugar,  and  a  little 
grated  nutmeg  :  throe-quarters  of  an  hour  will  bake  it.  This  pudding 
(if  desired)  can  be  very  much  enriched  by  adding  one  or  two  more 
eggs,  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  or  marrow,  a  tea-cup  full  of  cream, 
and  a  large  spoonful  of  brandy,  ratafia,  or  noyeau. 

572.  Rice  Snow  Balls. — Pick  and  wash  half  a  pound  of  the  best 
rice,  boil  it  in  water  for  ten  minutes  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  drain  it 
quite  dry;  there  should  be  more  water  than  the  rice  will  take  up: 
after  it  is  well  drained  through  a  sieve,  divide  it  into  six  parcels; 
take  apples  as  for  dumplings,  surround  each  with  rice;  tie  them  in  a 
clotli  separately,  and  rather  loosely;  boil  one  hour.  Sauce,  sugar 
and  butter,  or  wine  sauce. 

573.  Plain  Rice  Pudding. — If  you  wish  to  boil  it,  take  half  a 
pound  of  ground  rice,  put  it  into  a  bag  that  would  hold  three  times  as 
much,  put  it  into  the  saucepan  containing  boiling  w^ter ;  let  it  boil 
an  hour  and  a  quarter.  For  baking,  take  a  third  part  of  a  pound  of 
rice,  put  it  into  a  deep  dish  with  tv^o  quarts  of  skim  milk;  it  will  take 
an  hour  and  a  half  baking.  Sauce,  cold  butter,  and  sugar  and  nut- 
meg, or  preserved  fruit. 

574.  Rice  Bignels.  —  In  a  pint  of  new  milk  simmer  three  ounce? 
of  rice  till  it  becomes  a  stiff  paste;  add  half  a  tea-cup  full  of  thick 
cream,  the  grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon,  two  ounces  of  loaf-sugar,  and 
a  little  powdered  cinnamon,  mace,  and  nutmeg,  and  two  eggs  well 
beaten;  grate  a  small  tea-cup  full  of  bread  crumbs;  when  the  rice  is 
cold,  cut  it  into  bits  and  roll  it  into  small  balls,  dip  each  in  the  egg, 
roll  in  the  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  them  quickly.     Sauce,  wine  sauce. 

575.  Vermicelli,  Sago,  Tapioca,  and  Russian  Seed  Puddings. — 
These  are  all  inade  in  the  same  way  as  rice  puddings.  Arrow-root 
pudding  is  made  as  ground  rice  pudding.  It  is  generally  baked  in  a 
dish  lined  with  paste,  and  turned  out. 

576.  Yeast  Dumplings. — Procure  half  a  quarter  of  dough  from  the 
baker's.  Keep  it  covered  over  by  the  fire  till  it  is  wanted.  Should 
it  be  wished  to  make  the  dough  at  home,  set  half  a  quarter,  or  rather 
less,  of  the  best  flour,  with  a  wine  glass  full  of  fresh  yeast,  stirred 
into  half  a  tea-cup  full  of  milk,  just  warm.  Let  it  rise,  in  a  warm 
place,  for  about  an  hour.  Then  make  your  dumplings,  and  boil.  Each 
dumpling  should  be  about  the  size  of  an  egg.  Put  them  in  a  large 
eaucepan  of  boiling  water,  or  in  a  steamer,  which  is  much  better; 
they  should  boil  or  steam  twenty  minutes.  Stick  in  a  fork;  if  done, 
the  fork  will  come  out  clean.  Take  them  up,  and  they  should  be 
eaten  directly,  as  they  become  hard  in  their  own  steam.  Tear  them 
apart  with  your  fork ;  if  cut  with  your  knife  it  will  make  them  close. 
French  baker's  dough  is  always  very  light,  and  is  much  better  for 
dumplings.     Sauce,  cold  butter  and  sugar,  or  wine  sauce. 

577.  Suet  Pudding. —  Shred  a  pound  of  suet;  mix  with  a  pound 
and  a  quarter  of  flour,  two  eggs  beaten  separately,  a  little  salt,  and 
as  little  miik  as  will  make  it.     Boil  it  four  hours.     It  eats  well  the 


152  THECOMPLETECOOK. 

next  day,  cut  in  slices  and  broiled.  The  outward  fat  of  loins  and 
necks  of  mutton,  finely  shred  or  chopped,  makes  a  more  delicate  pud- 
ding- than  suet;  and  both  are  far  better  for  the  purpose  than  butter, 
which  causes  the  pudding  to  be  heavy  or  close. 

578.  Hunter's  Pudding. — Mix  a  pound  of  suet,  a  pound  of  flour,  a 
Dound  of  currants,  a  pound  of  raisins,  stoned  and  a  little  cut,  the  rind 
of  half  a  lemon,  shred  as  fine  as  possible,  six  Jamaica  peppers,  m  fine 
powder,  four  eggs,  a  glass  of  brandy,  a  little  salt,  and  as  little  milk 
as  will  make  it  of  a  proper  consistence;  boil  it  in  a  flannel  cloth,  or  a 
melon  mould,  eight  or  nine  hours.  Sweet  sauce.  Add  sometimes  a 
spoonful  of  peach  water,  for  change  of  flavour.  This  pudding  will  keep, 
after  it  is  boiled,  six  months,  if  tied  up  in  the  same  cloth,  and  hung 
up,  folded  in  a  sheet  of  cap  paper,  to  preserve  it  from  dust,  being  first 
cold.     When  used,  it  must  first  be  boiled  a  full  hour. 

579.  Marlborough  Padding. — Cover  the  dish  with  a  thin  puflf 
paste ;  then  take  candied  citron,  oranoe,  and  lemon  peel,  each  one 
ounce;  slice  these  sweetmeats  very  thin,  and  lay  them  all  over  the 
bottom  of  the  dish;  dissolve  six  ounces  of  butter,  without  water,  and 
six  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  well  beaten  ; 
stir  them  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  boils,  then  pour  it  on  the 
sv/eetmeats,  and  bake  the  pudding  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  mo- 
derate oven. 

580.  Custard  Pudding. — Boil  a  quart  of  milk  until  it  is  reduced 
to. a  pint;  take  from  it  a  few  spoonfuls,  and  let  it  cool,  mixing  with 
it,  very  perfectly,  one  spoonful  of  flour,  which  add  to  the  boiling  milk, 
and  stir  until  it  is  quite  cool.  Beat  four  yolks  and  two  whites  of 
eggs,  strain  them,  and  stir  them  into  the  milk,  two  ounces  of  sifted 
sugar,  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  wine,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg. 
Put  it  into  a  basin,  .tie  a  cloth  over  it,  and  boil  it  half  an  hour ;  untie 
tfe^  cloth,  cool  the  basin  a  little,  lay  a  dish  upon  the  top  of  it,  and  turn 
it  out. 

581.  Custard. — Boil  half  a  pint  of  new  milk,  with  a  piece  of  lemon 
peel,  and  two  peach  leaves,  and  eight  lumps  of  white  sugar.  Should 
cream  be  used  instead  of  milk,  there  will  be  no  occasion  to  skim  it; 
boat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  three  eggs,  strain  the  milk  through 
coarse  mushn,  or  a  hair  sieve;  then  mix  the  eggs  and  milk  very 
gradually  together,  simmer  it  gently  on  the  fire,  and  stir  it  till  it 
thickens. 

582.  Almond  Custard. — Boil  in  a  pint  of  milk  or  cream  two  or 
three  bitter  almonds,  and  cinnamon,  and  a  piece  of  lemon  peel,  pared 
thin,  with  eight  or  ten  lumps  of  sugar;  let  it  simmer  to  extract  the 
flavour,  then  strain  it,  and  stir  it  till  cool.  Beat  the  yolks  of  vsix  G(r(Ts^ 
mix  them  with  the  milk,  and  stir  the  whole  over  a  slow  fire,  until  o** 
a  proper  thickness,  adding  one  ounce  of  sweet  almonds,  beaten  fine 
in  rose  water. 

583.  Rice  Custard. — Take  a  cup  of  whole  Carolina  rice,  and  seven 
cups  of  milk;  boil  it,  by  placing  the  pan  in  water,  which  must  never 
be  allowed  to  go  off  the  boil  until  it  thickens ;  then  sweeten  it,  and 
add  an  ounce  of  sweet  almonds  pounded. 


PUDDINGS,     CHEESECAKES,   &C.  153 

584.  Baked  Vermicelli  Pudding,— ^Simmer  four  ounces  of  vermi- 
celli in  a  pint  of  new  milk  ten  minutes;  then  put  into  it  half  a  pint 
of  cream,  a  tea-spoonful  of  pounded  cinnamon,  four  ounces  of  butter 
warm,  the  same  of  white  sugar,  and  yolks  of  four  eggs,  well  beaten. 
Bake  it  in  a  dish  without  a  lining. 

585.  Marrow  Pudding. — Four  ounces  of  marrow,  four  of  biscuits, 
or  French  biscuits,  three  of  jar  raisins,  stoned,  candied  orange  peel, 
sugar  and  nutmeg  to  the  taste.  Place  these  articles  in  layers  in  a 
dish  surrounded  by  paste ;  then  beat  up  four  eggs,  leave  out  the  whites 
of  two,  in  half  a  pint  of  cream,  or  good  milk,  and  pour  it  over  the 
other  ingredients.     It  will  take  an  hour  and  a  half  to  bake. 

586.  The  Conservative  Pudding. — Take  four  sponge  biscuits,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  ratafia  and  macaroone  cakes,  mixed,  the  yolka 
of  eight  eggs,  a  glass  of  brandy,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  well  beaten 
together,  the  cakes  being  soaked  in  the  brandy  and  cream.  Butter  a 
quart  mould,  place  dried  cherries  or  stoned  raisins  in  a  pattern  over 
it,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  place  the  mould  in  a  stew-pan,  surrounded 
by  water,  and  let  it  simmer  an  hour  and  a  half  over  charcoal. 

587.  Economical  Pudding.  —  In  families  where  there  are  loose 
pieces  of  bread,  they  can  be  made  into  a  pudding  instead  of  throwing 
them  on  one  side.  Boil  as  much  milk  as  the  size  of  your  dish  will 
require,  put  in  a  bit  of  lemon  peel,  and  two  or  three  of  young  laurel 
leaves ;  cut  up  the  bread  crust  too  in  thin  slices.  When  the  milk 
boils,  take  out  the  flavourings,  put  in  the  bread,  cover  it  up,  and  set 
it  by  the  fire  to  swell ;  then  beat  it  up  fine,  and  stir  to  it  two  or  three 
eggs  well  beaten,  with  a  little  moist  sugar  and  ground  allspice,  a  bit 
of  butter  or  suet,  chopped  fine,  or  a  bit  of  good  beef  dripping.  A  few 
currants  or  not ;  currants  are  apt  to  turn  the  milk  wheyey.  Three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  will  bake  it.  It  is  a  very  wholesome  pudding  for 
children. 

588.  A  delicate  Bread  Pudding. — Take  fine  bread,  grated  fine, 
and  rich  new  iniik.  When  the  milk  boils,  put  in  the  bread  crumbs; 
for  every  table-spoonful  of  bread,  allow  one  eggy  well  beaten; 
sweeten  it  with  loaf-sugar  to  your  taste,  and  grate  in  a  little  nutmeg. 
Put  it  into  a  buttered  basin,  and  boil  it  from  twenty  minutes  to  fifty, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  pudding.  If  baked,  rather  less  time  will 
do  it.     It  only  roqnirns  to  be  a  light  brown. 

569.  Barley  Pudding. — Take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  Scotch  or 
pearl  barley.  Wash,  and  simmer  it  in  a  small  quantity  of  water ; 
pour  off  the  water,  and  add  milk  and  flavourings  as  for  rice  puddings. 
Beat  up  with  sugar  and  nutmeg,  and  mix  to  the  milk  and  barley  in 
the  same  way.  It  may  be  more  or  less  rich  of  eggs;  and  with  or 
without  the  addition  of  butter,  cream,  or  marrow.  Put  it  into  a  but- 
tered deep  dish,  leaving  room  for  six  or  eight  ounces  of  currants,  and 
an  ounce  of  candied  peel,  cut  up  fine,  with  a  few  apples  cut  in  small 
pieces.     An  hour  will  bake  it. 

590.  Hard  Dumplings. — Mix  flour  and  water,  with  a  bit  of  salt,  to 
the  consistency  of  dough.  Make  it  into  dumplings,  and  boil  them  half 
an  hour.    Serve  them  with  butter  and  salt.    Skimmer  cakes  are  made 


154  THE     COMPLETE      COOK. 

in  the  same  way,  and  flatted  to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch,  and 
boiled  on  the  skimmer,  which  should  be  previously  buttered ;  when 
done,  it  will  slip  off  tlie  skimmer.  They  are  eaten  with  sugar  and 
butter. 

591.  Newmarket  Pudding. — A  pint  of  new  milk,  half  a  lemon 
rind,  a  little  cinnamon,  and  a  bay  leaf;  simmer  a  few  minutes,  sweeten 
with  loaf-sugar,  and  strain  by  degrees  to  five  well-beaten  eggs  (leav- 
ing out  two  whites;)  pour  this  over  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter 
strewed  with  currants.     Bake  half  an  hour. 

592.  A  light  Pudding — Take  a  pint  of  new  milk,  eight  eg^s,  and 
half  a  pint  of  cream,  to  two  spoonfuls  of  flour.  Beat  the  yolks,  and 
whites  of  the  eggs  separately  ;  beat  up  the  batter  without  the  whites, 
but,  just  before  putting  it  in  the  pot,  or  oven,  slir  in  the  whites,  with 
one  ounce  of  fine  loaf-sugar,  a  little  powdered  cinnatnon,  or  nutmeg, 
and  half  a  glass  of  brandy  or  ratafia.  Butter  the  basin  or  mould  which 
it  will  exactly  fill.  Put  it  into  the  water  fast  boiling,  and  keep  it 
shaking  about  several  minutes,  lest  the  eggs  should  settle  on  one  side. 
Half  an  hour  will  boil  it.  When  turned  out,  grate  over  the  top  fine 
sugar  and  nutmeg,  with  melted  butter,  or  wine  sauce,  round  it;  or 
stick  bits  of  raspberry  jam,  or  red  currant  jelly,  at  top.  If  baked,  it 
will  not  require  more  than  twenty  minutes.  A  rich  puff'  paste,  put 
round  the  edge  of  any  baked  pudding,  greatly  improves  the  appear- 
ance. 

593.  A  Yorkshire  Pudding. — Beat  up  four  eggs,  and  mix  with 
them,  by  degrees,  four  spoonfuls  of  flour ;  beat  it  to  a  smooth  paste, 
and  add  a  pint  of  new  milk  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Put  it  into  a  shallow 
square  tin,  under  roast  meat.  It  should  not  be  put  down  until  the 
meat  is  warmed  through,  and  begins  to  drip;  or  till  the  fire  is  become 
clear  and  fierce,  so  that  the  batter  shall  soon  boil.  The  tin  should  be 
very  hot  when  the  pudding  is  put  in,  to  keep  the  floury  part  from 
settling. 

594.  A  nice  Suet  Pudding. — Take  two  or  three  eggs,  well  beaten, 
with  half  a  pound  of  suet,  chopped  fine,  a  pound  of  flour,  a  pinch  of 
salt,  and  some  grated  ginger  and  nutmeg.  Beat  tiiese  up  very  smooth 
with  cold  water  to  rather  a  thick  batter.  A  few  currants  may  be 
added.     Two  hours  will  boil  it.     White  wine  sauce. 

595.  Mother  Eve's  Pudding. — Take  equal  weights  of  suet,  plumf, 
currants,  sugar,  apples  chopped  up,  bread  crumbs,  and  flour,  with  an 
egg  to  an  ounce  of  the  ingredient,  candied  peel,  spice,  and  salt.  Boil 
six  hours. 

596.  Newcastle  Pudding. — Butter  half  a  melon  mould,  or  quart 
basin,  and  stick  all  round  with  dried  cherries,  or  fine  raisins,  fill  up 
with  bread  and  butter — and  steam  it  half  an  hour. 

597.  Hastij  Pudding. — Boil  a  quart  of  new  milk,  cinnamon  or  bay 
leaves.  While  boiling,  shake  in  from  a  flour  dredger  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  andlitir  it  until  it  thickens.  Then  pour  it  into  a 
deep  dish,  stir  in  an  ounce  of  butter,  the  same  of  moist  sugar,  and 
grate  nutmeg  over  the  top. 

598.  Arrow-root  Pudding.^— Arrow-root  pudding  is  made  in  the 


PUDDINGS,     CHEESECAKES,     &C.  155 

same  way  as  hasty  pudding",  with  the  exception  of  shaking  the  arrow- 
root in,  which  should  be  stirred  into  a  liltle  cold  milk,  and  then  stirred 
into  the  boiling  milk. 

599.  A  Friar's  Omelet — Boil  a  dozen  apples,  as  for  sauce ;  stir  in 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  the  same  of  white  sugar;  when 
cold,  add  four  eggs,  well  beaten;  put  it  into  a  baking  dish  thickly 
strewed  over  with  crumbs  of  bread,  so  as  to  stick  to  the  bottom  and 
sides;  then  put  in  the  apple-mixture ;  strew  crumbs  of  bread  over  the 
top  ;  when  baked,  turn  it  out,  and  grate  loaf-sugar  over  it. 

600.  A  Swiss  Pudding. — Put  layers  of  crumbs  of  bread  and  sliced 
apples,  with  sugar  between,  until  the  dish  be  as  full  as  it  will  hold  ; 
let  the  crumbs  be  the  uppermost  layer ;  then  pour  milk  over  it,  and 
bake. 

601.  Oxford  Puddings. — Take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  grated  bis- 
cuit, the  same  quantity  of  currants,  the  same  of  suet,  finely  chopped,  a 
spoonful  of  sugar,  and  a  little  nutmeg;  mix  them  well  together. 
Take  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  make  up  the  puddings  into  balls. 
Fry  them  a  light  colour  in  fresh  butter,  and  serve  with  white  wine 
sauce. 

602.  Mujin  or  Cabinet  Pudding. — Cut  three  or  four  muffins  in 
two,  pour  over  them  boiling  milk  sufficient  to  cover  them,  cover  them 
up  until  they  are  tender.  Make  a  rich  custard  with  eight  eggs  (only 
four  whites,)  a  pint  of  cream,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar,  an 
ounce  of  almonds,  blanched  and  cut,  lemon  peel  and  nutmeg  grated, 
and  a  glass  of  ratafia  or  brandy.  Butter  a  tin  morfld  for  boiling — for 
baking,  a  disli.  Put  a  layer  of  dried  cherries,  greengages,  apricots, 
or  French  plums;  cover  with  custard,  add  more  fruit,  then  custard, 
until  the  mould  or  dish  is  quite  full.  Boil  an  hour  and  a  half,  and 
serve  with  wine  sauce.  It  should  not  float  in  the  water,  but  stand  in 
a  stew-pan,  and  only  water  enough  to  reach  half  way  up  the  mould. 
If  for  baking,  it  will  not  take  so  long.  Lay  a  pufF  paste  round  the 
edges  of  the  dish. 

Stale  muffins  are  very  good  boiled  in  milk  and  eaten  with  wine 
sauce. 

603.  French  and  Italian  Puddings. — These  puddings  are  com- 
posed of  sliced  French  rolls,  eggs,  and  cream.  Five  or  six  eggs  to  a 
pint  of  cream,  and  as  much  roll  as  will  thicken  it;  sweeten  it  with 
loaf-sugar ;  a  pound  of  suet,  chopped  fine,  may  be  added  or  omitted. 
Line  the  dish  with  pufi'  paste ;  lay  at  the  bottom  six  or  eight  apples, 
cut  up,  a  pound  of  raisins  stoned,  a  few  dates  sliced,  or  a  few  French 
plums,  some  candied  orange  peel,  sugar,  ami  spice.  Pour  the  pud- 
ding over  this,  grate  nutmeg  at  top,  and  bake  of  a  fine  pale  brown. 

604.  A  Cheese  Pudding. — Half  a  pound  of  cheese  grated,  butter 
two  ounces,  four  eggs,  a  little  cayenne  and  nutmeg.  Butter  a  dish, 
and  bake  twenty  minutes. 

605.  A  very  rich  Pudding  of  prime  ripe  FruiL — This  is  made 
sometimes  by  pressing  the  fruit  through  a  sieve,  if  apricots,  green- 
gages or  peaches ;  sweet  juicy  apples,  or  rich  mellow  pears,  may  be 
grated;  or  the  fruit  may  be  scalded  a  few  minutes  in  white  wine; 


156  THE      COMPLETE      COOK. 

then  the  skins  and  stones  removed,  and  beaten  in  a  mortar.  W^-ei. 
cold  mix  with  rich  custard,  cream,  eggs,  and  bread  cruinbti,  or  Na- 
ples biscuit,  with  loaf-sugar  to  taste;  the  iiernels  blanched, and  a  glass 
of  brandy  or  Madeira  wine.  Then  bake  in  a  dish  edged  with  pufF 
paste,  and  call  it  according  to  the  fruit  employed — apricot  pudding, 
peach  pudding,  and  so  forth.  If  the  cook  is  ordered  to  make  such  a 
pudding,  it  is  tit  she  should  know  how  to  do  it;  but  it  is  a  great  pity 
to  spoil  good  things  by  such  incongruous  mixtures;  the  batter  alone 
would  make  a  much  better  pudding;  and  the  fruit  and  wine  might  be 
saved  for  -dessert.  For  these  rich  delicate  puddings,  the  tinctures  are 
preferable  to  the  spice  in  substance. 

606.  Ckesnut  Pudding. — Roast  chesnuts,  or  boil  them  a  quarter 
of  an  hour;  blanch,  peel,  and  grate,  or  pound  in  a  mortar,  with  a  little 
white  wine.  'To  a  dozen  chesnuts,  add  six  eggs,  well  beaten,  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  cream,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter ;  mix  it  well 
together;  sweeten  to  taste;  add  a  little  salt  and  nutmeg;  simmer 
over  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  stirring  it  well.  Then  bake  it  in  a  dish, 
edged  and  lined  with  puff  paste. 

607.  Rusk  Pudding  is  exactly  the  same  thing  as  bread  and  butter 
pudding,  except  that  the  butter  is  spread  on  rusks  instead  of  bread. 
The  richness  may  be  varied  at  pleasure.  Let  it  steep  two  hours  or 
more  before  putting  in  the  oven. 

608.  Portugal  Pudding. — Rub  up  four  table-spoonfals  of  ground 
rice,  or  semilina,  with  three  ounces  of  butter,  and  stir  in  it  a  pint  of 
cream ;  stir  it  till  it  boils  and  is  quite  thick.  Then  stir  in  two  whole 
eggs,  and  the  yolks  of  three  more,  well  beaten,  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  loaf-sugar,  a  little  salt  and  nutmeg.  Butter  a  dish,  and  bake 
it  an  hour.  When  it  is  done,  have  ready  another  dish  of  the  same 
eize,  or  a  very  little  deeper;  on  the  bottom  of  this  spread  a  layer  of 
raspberry  jam,  then  the  puddings  and  then  a  layer  of  apricot  jam. 
This  pudding  is  very  delicate  without  the  mixture  of  fruit,  with  wino 
or  lemon  sauce  instead. 

609.  Tansey  Pudding. — Make  a  rich  batter  with  Naple-biscuits, 
eggs,  cream,  and  a  little  sugar ;  chop  up  a  very  few  tansey  leaves, 
and  a  few  of  spinach;  enough  to  give  the  whole  a  green  colour.  Set 
it  in  a  double  saucepan,  over  boiling  water,  till  it  becomes  quite  thick ; 
then  pour  it  into  a  buttered  basin  or  mould ;  tie  it  up  securely  ;  and 
let  it  boil  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  L(^t  it  stand  a  few  minutes  after 
taken  up;  then  turn  out,  and  serve  with  wine  sauce. 

610.  To  make  Curd  for  Cheesecakes,  and  other  'purposes. — Milk 
is  turned  to  curds  and  whey  by  means  of  rennet,  which  is  the  stonuicli 
of  a  calf,  taken  out  as  soon  as  it  is  killed,  well  cleansed  from  its  con 
tents,  then  scoured  inside  and  out  with  salt,  and  when  thoroughly 
salted  stretched  on  a  stick  to  dry.  A  bit  of  this  is  to  be  soaked  in 
boiling  water  for  several  hours,  and  the  liquor  put  in  milk  warm  from 
the  cow,  or  made  that  warn)th.  Use  alone  can  prescribe  the  exact 
quantity.  Never  use  more  than  enough  to  turn  it,  as  it  hardens  the 
curd.     The  gizzard  skin  of  fov»'ls  and  turkeys  may  be  prepared  iu 


PUDDINGS,     CHEESECAKES,     &C.  157 

the  same  way,  and  answer  the  same  purpose ;  or  the  curd  for  cheese- 
cakes may  be  bought  of  the  regular  dairy  people. 

611.  Cheesecakes. — The  basis  of  cheesecakes  is  professedly  the 
curd  of  milk  as  turned  for  cheese;  but  many  are  made  entirely  with- 
out it.  The  following  recipe  is  much  approved :  Take  the  curd  of 
eight  quarts  of  new  milk;  rub  the  curd  in  a  coarse  cloth  till  quite  free 
from  whey  ;  then  work  into  it  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
three  biscuits,  and  an  equal  quantity  of  bread  crumbs,  a  little  salt, 
and  such  spices  as  you  choose,  finely  powdered.  Beat  ten  eggs  (half 
the  whites)  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fine  loaf-sugar,  a  wine- 
glass full  of  brandy  or  ratafia,  and  a  pint  of  rich  cream.  Having  well 
mixed  all  these  ingredients,  rub  them  with  the  hand  through  a  coarse 
hair  sieve ;  then  add  a  pound  of  currants,  rubbed  in  a  coarse  cloth, 
and  picked,  and  an  ounce  of  candied  citron,  cut  as  small  as  possible. 
Line  tin  patty-pans  with  rich  puff  paste,  put  in  the  mixture,  and  either 
entirely  cover  with  paste,  or  put  on  only  bars  or  leaves.  They  will 
take  about  twenty  minutes  to  bake  in  rather  a  quick  oven.  By  sub- 
stituting half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  for  currants,  and  half  an 
ounce  of  bitter,  blanched,  and  beaten  to  a  paste,  almond  cheesecakes 
may  be  made ;  or  lemon  orange  cheesecakes,  by  substituting  for  the 
currants  two  or  three  candied  lemons  or  oranges,  pounded  in  a 
mortar. 

612.  Polaloe  Cheesecakes.— Ta.ke  half  a  pound  of  mashed  potatoes, 
rubbed  through  a  colander,  or  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  mucilage,  or 
potatoe  starch;  mix  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  tea-cup 
full  of  cream,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar,  and  two  eggs,  finely 
beaten,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  candied  peel,  either  chopped  fine  or 
beaten  in  a  mortar,  and  a  little  nutmeg  or  cinnamon ;  well  mix  these 
ingredients.  Put  in  patty-pans,  or  saucers,  lined  with  paste.  Do  not 
more  than  half  fill,  as  the  substance  will  swell.  Sift  over  fine  sugar, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Four  or  six  ounces 
of  currants  may  be  substituted  for  part  or  all  of  the  candied  peel,  or 
the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  a  lemon  or  Seville  orange  may  be  added; 
also  a  little  brandy  cr  ratafia :  but  do  not  make  the  mixture  too  moist. 

613.  A  plain  Cheesecake. — Turn  three  quarts  of  milk  to  curds ; 
break  it,  and  drain  the  whey ;  when  dry,  break  it  in  a  pan,  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  till  perfectly  smooth ;  put  to  it  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
thin  cream,  or  good  milk,  and  add  sugar,  cinnamon,  nutmeg,  and  three 
ounces  ol'  currants. 

614.  Bread  Cheesecakes. — Pour  a  pint  of  boiling  cream  on  «  penny 
loaf;  let  it  stand  two  hours ;  mix  half  a  pound  of  butter,  warm,  with 
eight  eggs,  and  a  grated  nutmeg ;  beat  the  whole  in  a  mortar ;  then 
add  half  a  pound  of  currants  rubbed  and  picked,  two  ounces  of  sugar, 
a  spoonful  of  wine,  and  the  same  of  brandy. 

615.  Common  Pancakes. — Make  a  light  batter  of  eggs,  flour,  and 
milk ;  fry  in  a  small  pan,  in  hot  dripping  or  lard ;  a  little  salt,  nut- 
meg, and  ginger,  may  be  added.  Sugar  and  lemon  should  be  served 
10  eat  with  them. — Or,  when  eggs  are  scarce,  make  tlie  batter  with 

13* 


158  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

small  beer,  ginger,  and  so  forth ;  or  water,  with  flour,  and  a  very  little 
milk,  will  serve,  but  not  nearly  so  well  as  eggs  and  all  milk. 

616.  Pancakes  of  Rice. — Boil  half  a  pound  of  rice  to  a  jelly,  in  a 
small  quantity  of  water;  when  cold,  mix  it  with  a  pint  of  cream, 
eight  eggs,  a  bit  of  salt  and  nutmeg ;  stir  in  eight  ounces  of  butter, 
just  warmed,  and  add  as  much  flour  as  will  make  the  batter  thick 
enough.     Fry  in  as  little  lard  or  dripping  as  possible. 

617.  Cream  Pancakes. — Mix  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  well  beaten, 
with  a  pint  of  cream,  two  ounces  of  sifted  sugar,  a  little  nutmeg,  cin- 
namon, and  mace.  Rub  the  pan  with  a  bit  of  butter,  and  fry  the  pan- 
cakes thin. 

618.  Fritters. — Make  them  of  any  of  the  batters  directed  for  pan- 
cakes, by  dropping  a  small  quantity  into  the  pan ;  or  make  the  plainer 
sort,  and  put  pared  apples,  sliced  and  cored,  into  the  batter,  and  fry 
some  of  it  in  each  slice.  Currants,  or  sliced  lemon  as  thin  as  paper, 
make  an  agreeable  change.  Fritters  for  company  should  be  served 
on  a  folded  napkin  in  the  dish.  Any  sort  of  sweetmeat,  or  ripe  fruit, 
may  be  made  into  fritters. 

6.19.  Oyster  Fritters. — Make  a  batter  of  flour,  milk,  and  eggs; 
season  a  very  little  with  nutmeg.  Beard  the  oysters,  and  put  as  many 
as  you  think  proper  in  each  fritter. 

620.  Potatoe  Fritters. — Boil  two  large  potatoes,  scrape  them  fine, 
beat  four  yolks  and  three  whites  of  eggs,  and  add  to  the  above  one 
large  spoonful  of  cream,  another  of  sweet  wine,  a  squeeze  of  lemon, 
and  a  little  nutmeg.  Beat  this  batter  well  half  an  hour.  It  will  be 
extremely  light.  Put  a  good  quantity  of  fine  lard  into  a  stew-pan, 
and  drop  a  spoonful  at  a  time  of  the  batter  into  it.  Fry  them  ;  and 
serve  as  a  sauce,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  one 
dessert-spoonful  of  peach-leaf  or  almond  water,  and  some  white  sugar, 
warmed  together ;  not  to  be  served  in  the  dish. 

BAKING. 

621.  Bread. — Put  a  quartern  of  flour  into  a  large  basin,  or  small 
pan,  with  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt;  make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  then 
put  in  a  basin  four  table-?poonfuls  of  good  yeast,  stir  in  a  pint  of  milk 
•ukewarm;  put  it  in  the  hole  of  the  flour,  stir  just  to  make  it  of  a  thin 
natter,  and  then  strew  a  little  flour  over  the  top ;  then  set  it  on  one 
side  of  the  fire,  cover  it  over  with  a  cloth,  let  it  stand  till  the  next 
morninsf;  add  half  a  pint  more  of  warm  milk,  and  make  it  into  dough, 
knead  it  for  ten  minutes,  then  set  it  in  a  warm  place  by  the  fire  for 
one  hour  and  a  half,  then  knead  it  again,  and  it  is  ready  for  either 
loaves  or  bricks. 

622.  Sally  Lunn  Tea  Cake. — Take  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  thick 
small-beer  yeast,  and  one  pint  of  warm  milk,  and  put  into  a  pan  with 
flour  sufficient  to  make  it  of  a  thick  batter ;  let  it  stand  by  the  fire  till 
it  has  risen  as  high  as  it  will,  about  two  hours.  Two  ounces  of 
lump  sugar,  dissolved  in  a  pint  of  new  milk,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
Dutter  rubbed  in  the  flour  very  fine ;  then  make  your  dough ;  let  it 


COOKING      INDIAN     CORN,iSz;C^  150 

Stand  half  an  hour,  then  make  your  cakes  and  put  them  on  tins; 
when  they  have  stood  to  rise,  put  them  in  a  quick  oven.  When  egga 
are  plentiful  you  may  put  four  eggs  instead  of  milk — they  will  make 
it  much  lighter. 

French  rolls  are  made  much  in  the  same  \vay  ;  instead  of  using  all 
milk  put  half  water,  and  use  only  butter  and  a  little  salt. 

623.  A  Plum  Cake. — A  quartern  of  dough,  half  a  pound  of  moist 
sugar,  half  a  pound  of  butter,  a  tea-cup  full  of  cream  and  two  eggs,  a 
pound  of  currants  (add  raisins  if  you  please)  a  tea-spoonful  of  allspice, 
two  ounces  of  candied  orange  peel  cut  small,  and  an  ounce  of  carra- 
way  seeds.  Roll  the  dough  out  several  times,  and  spread  over  the 
several  ingredients;  flour  the  pan  well,  and  set  it  on  one  side  the  fin; 
to  rise ;  bake  an  hour  and  a  half.  A  richer  cake  may  be  made  by 
adding  more  sweetmeats,  butter,  eggs,  and  almonds,  and  so  forth. 
The  dough  made  as  bread  ;  when  risen,  melt  the  butter  in  warm 
milk  and  put  to  it  with  the  other  ingredients,  and  put  to  rise. 

624.  A  plain  Pound  Cake. — One  pound  each  of  butter,  loaf-sugar, 
and  flour,  and  nine  eggs;  work  the  butter  to  a  cream,  pound  the  su- 
gar, and  add  then  the  eggs ;  beat  all  together  twenty  minutes,  then 
lightly  add  the  flour;  mix,  put  in  a  tin  or  hoop  lined  with  buttered 
paper.    Bake  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.* 

AMERICAN  MODE  OF  COOKING  INDIAN  CORN,  PUMP- 
KINS, &c. 

Maize  or  Indian  corn  has  never  been  extensively  used  in  Great 
Britain,  and  the  editor  has  every  reason  to  believe  that  this  has  arisen 
from  the  almost  total  ignorance  of  the  English  people  as  to  the  mode 
of  preparing  it  for  human  food.  It  is,  perhaps,  the  most  productive 
crop  that  can  be  grown,  and  its  nutritious  qualities,  when  properly 
prepared,  are  equal  to  its  productiveness.  We  are  satisfied  that  ft 
may  be  grown  in  that  country,  or,  at  any  rate,  in  the  south  and  east- 
ern parts  of  it,  with  great  advantage ;  indeed,  the  experiment  has 
been  tried,  and  with  decided  success.  The  late  Mr.  Cobbett  grew  an 
average  crop  of  the  dwarf  kind  on  Barn  Elms  farm,  Surrey,  for  three 
or  four  years,  as  tJie  editor  can  testify  from  his  own  personal  inspec- 
tion, and  he  himself  has  succeeded  in  rearing  the  large  sort  to  perfec- 
tion, the  cobs  or  ears,  when  quite  ripe,  averaging  eight  or  nine 
inches ;  this,  however,  was  effected  upon  a  small  scale,  and  in  a  gar- 
den. *t 

625.  Indian  Cake,  or  Bannock. — This,  as  prepared  in  our  own 
country,  is  cheap  and  very  nice  food.  Take  one  quart  of  Indian  meal, 
dressed  or  sifted,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  treacle  or  molasses,  two  tea- 
epoonfuls  of  saU,  a  bit  of  "shortening"  (butter  or  lard)  half  as  big  as 
a  hen's  egg,  stirred  together;  make  it  pretty  moist  with  scalding 
water,  put  it  into  a  well-greased  pan,  smooth  over  the  surface  with  a 

*  Full  directions  for  these  and  all  other  similar  preparation«  are  given  in  "  The 
Baker,"  liv  the  sani-j  i.:ditor. 


160  THE     COMPLETE    COOK. 

6ix)on,  and  bake  it  brown  on  both  sides  before  a  quick  fire.  A  little 
stewed  pumpkin,  scalded  with  the  meal,  improves  the  cake.  Bannock 
split  and  dipped  in  butter,  makes  very  nice  toast. 

626.  Green  Indian  Corn. — This  is  a  most  delicious  vegetable. 
"When  used  as  a  vegetable  the  cobs,  or  ears,  are  plucked  about  the 
time  that  the  corn  has  arrived  at  a  milky  state,  or  just  before  it  as- 
sumes a  solid  substance.  A  part  of  the  leaves  or  filaments  by  which 
the  cob,  or  ear,  is  surrounded,  is  taken  away,  and  the  cobs  boiled  from 
twenty  to  forty  minutes,  "  according  to  its  age."  When  it  is  done,  it 
is  served  with  cold  or  melted  butter,  and  eaten  (after  being  stripped 
of  its  remaining  leaves)  by  taking  the  two  ends  of  the  cob  in  the 
hands,  and  biting  off  the  corn.  The  editor  can  bear  testimony  to  its 
delicious  quality  from  having  grown  it  in  his  own  garden  and  par- 
taken of  it. 

627.  Indian  Corn,  or  Maize  Pudding,  baked. — Scald  a  quart  of 
milk  (skimmed  milk  will  do,)  and  stir  in  seven  table-spoonfuls  of  sifted 
Indian  meal,  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  a  tea-cup  full  of  molasses  or  trea- 
cle, or  coarse  moist  sugar,  and  a  table-spoonful  of  powdered  ginger  or 
sifted  cinnamon  ;  bake  three  or  four  hours.  If  whey  is  wanted,  pour 
in  a  little  cold  milk  after  it  is  all  mixed. 

628.  Boiled  Maize  Pudding. — Stir  Indian  meal  and  warm  milk 
together  "  pretty  stiff;"  a  little  salt  and  two  or  three  "  great  spoon- 
fuls" of  molasses  added  ;  also  a  spoonful  of  ginger,  or  any  other  spice 
that  may  be  preferred.  Boil  it  in  a  tight-covered  pan,  or  in  a  very 
thick  cloth  ;  if  the  water  gets  in,  it  will  ruin  it.  Leave  plenty  of  room, 
for  Indian  meal  swells  very  much.  The  milk  with  which  it  is  mixed 
should  be  merely  warmed;  if  it  be  scalding  hot,  the  pudding  will 
break  to  pieces.  Some  chop  suet  very  fine,  and  warm  in  the  milk; 
others  warm  thin  slices  of  apple  to  be  stirred  into  the  pudding.  Water 
will  answer  instead  of  milk. 

629.  Pumpkin  and  Squash  Pie. — The  usual' way  of  dressing 
pumpkins  in  England  in  a  pie  is  to  cut  them  into  slices,  mixed  with 
apples,  and  bake  them  with  a  top  crust  like  ordinary  pies.  A  quite 
different  process  is  pursued  in  America,  and  the  editor  can  testify  to 
the  immense  superiority  of  the  Yankee  method.  In  England,  the 
pumpkin  is  grown  for  show  rather  than  for  use;  nevertheless,  when 
properly  dressed,  it  is  a  very  delicious  vegetable,  and  a  universal 
favourite  with  our  New  England  neighbours. 

The  following  is  the  American  method  of  making  a  pumpkin  pie: 
Take  out  the  seeds,  and  pare  the  pumpkin  or  squash;  but  in  taking 
mi  the  seeds  do  not  scrape  the  inside  of  the  pumpkin ;  the  part  nearest 
whe  seed  is  the  sweetest ;  then  stew  the  pumpkin,  and  strain  it  through 
a  sieve  or  colander.  To  a  quart  of  milk  for  a  family  pie,  three  eggs 
are  sufiicient.  Stir  in  the  stewed  pumpkin  with  your  milk  and 
beaten-up  eggs  till  it  is  as  thick  as  you  can  stir  round  rapidly  and 
easily.  If  the  pie  is  wanted  richer  make  it  thinner,  and  add  another 
egg  or  two ;  but  even  one  egg  to  a  quart  of  milk  makes  "  very  decent 
pies."  Sweeten  with  molasses  or  sugar ;  add  two  tea-spoonfuls  of 
salt,  two  tablc-spoonl'ula  of  sifted  cinnamon,  and  one  of  powdered 


COOKING     INDIAN     CORN,     &C.  161 

ginger ;  but  allspice  may  be  used,  or  any  other  spice  that  may  be  pre- 
ferred. The  peel  of  a  lemon  grated  in  gives  it  a  pleasant  flavour. 
The  more  eggs,  says  our  American  authority,  the  better  the  pie. 
Some  put  one  egg  to  a  gill  of  milk.  Bake  about  an  hour  in  deep 
plates,  or  shallow  dishes,  without  an  upper  crust,  in  a  warm  oven. 

There  is  another  method  of  making  this  pie,  which,  we  know  from 
experience,  produces  an  excellent  dish:  Take  out  the  seeds,  and  grate 
the  pumpkin  till  you  come  to  the  outside  skin.  Sweeten  the  pulp; 
add  a  little  ground  allspice,  lemon  peel,  and  lemon  juice;  in  short, 
flavour  it  to  your  taste.     Bake  without  an  upper  crust. 

030.  Carrot  Pies.— These  pies  are  made  like  pumpkin  pies.  The 
carrots  should  be  boiled  very  tender,  skinned,  and  sifted. 

631.  American  Custard  Puddings^  sufficiently  good  for  common 
use,  may  be  made  by  taking  five  eggs  beaten  up  and  mixed  with  a 
quart  of  milk,  sweetened  with  sugar  and  spiced  with  cinnamon,  all- 
spice, or  nutmeg.  It  is  well  to  boil  your  milk  first,  and  Jet  it  get 
cold  before  using  it.  "  Boiling  milk  enriches  it  so  much,  that  boiled 
skim  milk  is  about  as  good  as  new."  (We  ddubt  this  assertion ;  at 
any  rate,  it  can  only  be  improved  by  the  evaporation  of  the  water.) 
Bake  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 

032.  American  Plum  Pudding.  —  Pound  six  hard  fine  biscuits 
(crackers),  soak  them  for  some  hours  in  milk  sufficient  to  cover  the 
mass;  add  three  pints  of  milk,  beat  up  six  eggs,  and  mix;  flavour 
with  lemon  brandy,  and  a  whole  nutmeg  grated ;  add  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  stoned  raisins,  rubbed  in  flour.  Bake  not  quite  two 
hours. 

633.  Rennet  Pudding  or  Custard.  —  A  pudding  may  be  made  ot 
this  description  in  five  minutes.  Take  a  wine-glass  full  of  wine,  in 
which  a  small  portion  of  calf's  rennet  has  been  kept  soaking ;  put  it 
into  a  quart  of  cold  new  milk,  and  a  sort  of  custard  will  be  the  result. 
This  sweetened  with  loaf-sugar  and  spiced  with  nutmeg  is  very  good. 
It  should  be  eaten  immediately,  for  in  a  few  hours  it  begins  to 
curdle. 

634.  American  Apple  Puddings. — Take  your  apples,  and  bore  out 
the  core  without  cutting  them  in  two.  Fill  up  the  holes  with  washed 
rice.  Tie  up  each  apple  very  tight,  and  separately  in  the  corners  of 
a  pudding  bag.     Boil  an  hour,  or  an  hour  and  a  half. 

635.  Bird's  Nest  Pudding. — If  you  wish  to  make  what  is  called  a 
bird's  nest  pudding,  prepare  your  custard ;  take  eight  or  ten  pleasant 
apples,  prepare  them  and  take  out  the  core,  but  leave  them  whole; 
set  them  in  a  pudding-dish,  pour  your"  custard  over  them,  and  bake 
about  thirty  minutes. 

636.  American  Souse.  —  Take  pigs'  feet,  ears,  &c.  well  cleaned, 
and  boil  or  rather  simmer  them  for  four  or  five  hours,  until  they  are 
too  tender  to  be  taken  out  with  a  fork.  When  taken  from  the  boiling 
water  it  should  be  put  into  cold  water.  After  it  is  packed  down  tight, 
boil  the  jelly-like  liquor  in  which  it  was  cooked  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  vinegar;  yalt  as  you  think  til,  and  cloves,  allspice,  and  cinnamon, 


162  THE    COMPLETE     COOK. 

at  the  rate  of  a  quarter  of  a  pound  to  a  hundred  weight,  must  be  mixed 
with  it  when  scalding  hot. 

037.  American  dry  Bread. — As  far  as  possible,  have  bits  of  bread 
eaten  up  before  they  become  hard.  Spread  those  that  are  not  eaten, 
and  let  them  dry,  to  be  pounded  for  puddings,  or  soaked  for  brewis. 
Brewis  is  made  of  crusts  and  dry  pieces  of  bread,  soaked  a  good 
while  in  hot  milk,  mashed  up,  and  salted,  and  buttered  like  toast. 

638.  Another  sort  of  Breicis.  —  The  author  of  Domestic  Cookery 
observes,  that  a  very  good  meal  may  be  bestowed  on  poor  people  in  a 
thing  called- breivis,  which  is  thus  made:  Cut  a  very  thick  upper 
crust  of  bread,  and  put  it  into  the  pot  where  salt  beef  is  boiling,  and 
nearly  ready ;  it  will  attach  some  of  the  fat,  and  when  swelled  out, 
will  be  no  unpalatable  dish  to  those  who  rarely  taste  meat. 

639.  Salt  Fish.  —  The  New  England  mode  of  dressing  salt  fish  is 
an  excellent  one,  and  ought  to  be  generally  adopted.  Keep  the  fish 
many  hours  (at  least  seven  or  eight)  in  scalding  hot  water,  which 
must  never  be  suffered  to  boil. 

640.  To  preserve  Cheese. — Cover  the  cheese  carefully  with  paper, 
fastened  on  with  paste,  so  as  totally  to  exclude  the  air.  In  this  way 
cheese  may  be  kept  for  years. 

641.  American  Mince  Meat.  —  Take  the  good  bits  of  vegetables, 
and  the  cold  meat  left  after  dinner.  Mash  your  vegetables  fine,  and 
chop  your  meat  very  fine.  Warm  it  with  what  remains  of  gravy,  or 
roast  meat  dripping.  Two  or  three  apples,  sliced  and  fried  to  mix 
with  it,  are  considered  an  improvement.  Some  like  a  little  sifted 
sage  sprinkled  in  it.  After  it  is  warmed,  lay  it  upon  a  large  slice  of 
toasted  bread.  Potatoes  should  not  be  used  in  the  preparation  of 
American  mince  meat 

GRUELS,  CREAMS,  SYLLABUBS,  JELLIES,  &c.,  &c. 

642.  Common  Flummery  is  merely  water  gruel  flavoured,  and 
eaten  cold.  Soak  in  cold  water  a  pint  of  very  fine  white  oatmeal ; 
when  it  has  steeped  a  day  and  a  night,  pour  off  the  water  quite  clear. 
Then  put  upon  the  oatmeal  three  pints  of  fresh  water,  and  let  that 
stand  also  a  day  aiid  a  night ;  then  strain  it  through  a  hair  sieve,  and 
boil  it  till  it  is  as  thick  as  hasty  pudding,  stirring  it  all  the  time; 
sweeten  it  with  loaf-sugar,  and  put  a  spoonful  of  ratafia  or  noyeau,  or 
a  few  drops  of  essence  of  lemon.  Pour  it  into  saucers  or  shallow 
dishes.     It  is  eaten  with  sugar  and  cream,  or  wine,  or  cider. 

643.  Rice  Flummery  is  ground  rice  thickened  with  milk,  the  same 
as  for  good  rice  pudding.  In  a  pint  of  new  milk,  simmer  three  ounces 
of  ground  rice  till  it  is  become  a  very  thick  paste,  sweeten  it  with 
loaf-sugar,  flavour  with  ratafia  or  peach  water,  put  it  in  a  bason  or  a 
mould;  when  it  is  cold,*  turn  it  out.  Sauce;  half  a  pint  of  new 
milk,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  a  large  tea-cup  full  of  cream,  the  juice 
of  a  small  lemon,  sweetened  with  loaf-sugar.  Or  you  may  pour 
roimd  it  cream  or  custard. 

644.  French  Flummery. — Take  two  ounces  of  isinglass  to  a  quart 


GRUELS,     CREAMS,     (Sc  C .  lC}ti 

of  cream;  simmer  them  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  sweeten  with  loaf 
sugar;  flavour  wilii  rose  water;  strain  it  into  a  mould;  when  cold, 
turn  it  out,  and  put  round  it  baked  or  dried  pears. 

645.  Dutch  Flummery  is  composed  of  isinglass  boiled  in  water, 
enriched  with  lemon,  eggs,  and  wine.  Take  two  ounces  of  isinglass, 
boil  it  half  an  hour  in  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  and  grate  off  with 
loaf-sugar  the  yellow  rind  of  two  lemons ;  sweeten  with  loaf-sugar, 
a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  the  juice  of  three  lemons.  Beat  up  seven 
eggs,  and  strain  the  above  to  them,  stirring  all  the  time.  Put  it  into 
the  saucepan  a  minute  or  two  to  scald — by  no  means  let  it  boil.  Then 
pour  it  into  a  basin,  and  stir  it  till  nearly  cold,  and  then  let  it  stand  a 
few  minutes  to  settle,  and  put  it  into  a  tin  mould  previously  dipped  in 
cold  water. 

646.  Blancmange. — Tf  for  a  sick  person,  boil  an  ounce  of  the  best 
isinglass,  with  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  in  half  a  pint  of  water.  The 
isinglass  will  become  a  very  thick  jelly  in  half  an  hour's  boiling. 
Then  mix  to  it  a  pint  of  new  milk,  and  sugar  to  taste.  Let  it  boil 
up  once,  and  strain  through  a  tamis,  or  swan-skin  jelly-bag,  into  a 
bason.  Pour  it  into  a  mould,  or  custard  cups,  when  nearly  cold; 
pour  it  very  steadily,  and  keep  back  any  sediment.  When  turned 
out,  raise  it  all  round  the  edges  with  a  silver  knife  ;  turn  the  mould 
on  a  dish,  shake  it  once  or  twice.  If  properly  prepared,  it  will  turn 
outeia  beautiful  white  jelly,  like  marble;  garnish  with  flowers  or  with 
sweetmeats,  or  sliced  lemon. 

647.  A  richer  Blancmange. — Simmer  an  ounce  or  little  more  of  fine 
isinglass  in  a  pint  and  a  half  of  new  milk;  add  the  rind  of  half  a 
lemon,  shred  very  fine  a  blade  or  two  of  mace,  a  stick  of  cinnamon, 
and  sweeten  vi'ith  tvv^o  ounces  and  a  half  of  loaf-sugar.  Blanch  and 
pound,  with  a  spoonful  of  rose  water,  half  an  ounce  of  sweet  almonds, 
and  eight  or  ten  bitter;  put  to  the  milk,  and  mix.  When  the  isin- 
glass is  quite  dissolved,  strain  through  a  linen  flannel,  to  half  a  pint 
of  rich  cream,  and  stir  together  well.  When  it  has  stood  an  hour, 
pour  it  off  into  another  bason,  leaving  the  sediments  at  the  bottom, 
and  when  nearly  cold,  pour  it  into  moulds,  jelly  glasses,  or  custard 
cups.  Two  table-spoonfuls  of  noyeau  will  answer  the  purpose  of  the 
almonds.  And  the  isinglass  may  be  dissolved  in  a  pint  of  water  and 
half  a  pint  of  milk. 

618.  Arrow-root  Blancmange. — Put  two  tea-cups  full  of  arrow- 
root to  a  quart  of  milk.  Flavour  it  with  an  ounce  of  sweet  almonds, 
and  fifteen  or  sixteen  bitter,  blanched  and  pounded  ;  or  with  noyeau. 
Moisten  the  arrow-root  with  a  little  cold  milk,  and  pour  to  it  the  boil- 
ing milk,  stirring  all  the  time.  Then  put  it  in  the  saucepan,  and  boil 
it  a  minute  or  two,  still  stirring.  Dip  the  moulds  in  cold  water.  Turn 
it  out  when  cold. 

649.  Italian  Cream. — Rub  on  a  lump  of  sugar  the  rind  of  a  lemon, 
and  scrape  it  off  with  a  knife  into  a  deep  dish  or  china  bowl ;  add  two 
ounces  and  a  half  of  sitlted  sugar,  a  gill  of  brandy,  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  and  a  pint  of  double  cream  ;  then  beat  it  up  well  with  a  whisk; 
boil  an  ounce  of  isinglass  in  a  gill  of  water  till  quite  dissolved;  strain 


164  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

it  to  the  oilier  ingredients ;  beat  some  time,  and  fill  llie  mould  ;  and 
when  cold  and  set  well,  turn  it  out  on  a  dish.  The  above  may  be 
flavoured  with  any  kind  of  liquor;  strawberry,  raspberry,  or  any  kind 
of  fruit;  coloured  with  prepared  cochineal,  and  named  to  correspond 
with  the  flavour  given. 

650.  Clouted  or  Clotted  Cream. — The  milk  which  is  put  into  the 

Ean  one  morning  stands  till  the  next;  then- set  the  pan  on  a  hot 
earth,  half  full  of  water;  put  this  over  a  stove  from  ton  to  twenty 
minutes,  according  to  the  quantity  of  the  milk;  it  will  be  done 
enough  when  bladders  rise  on  its  surface;  this  denotes  that  it  is 
nearly  boiling,  which  it  must  by  no  means  do,  but  must  be  instantly 
removed  from  the  fire,  and  placed  in  a  cool  place  till  the  next  morn- 
ing, when  the  cream  is  thrown  up,  and  is  ready  for  the  tai)ie,  or  for 
butter,  into  which  it  may  be  converted  by  stirring  it  with  the  hand, 
but  not  very  readily.  This  is  sometimes  called  Devonshire  cream, 
and  it  is  imagined  by  those  who  do  not  know  better,  to  be  much  richer 
than  the  common  cream.  The  artificial  process  employed  in  raising 
this  cream  causes  the  milk  to  yield  a  greater  quantity,  but  the  quality 
and  flavour  are  inferior  to  cream  raised  naturally,  and  so  is  the  butter 
made  from  it. 

051.  Cream  for  Fruit  Pies. — There  are  many  ways  of  preparing 
cream.  For  fruit  pies,  simmer  a  pint  of  new  milk,  rind  of  Seville 
orange  or  lemon,  cinnamon,  either,  or  all,  as  you  may  choose.  Whisk 
up  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  with  half  a  spoonful  of  flour,  and  one  or 
two  of  cream;  gradually  add  the  boiling  milk,  set  it  over  the  fire, 
and  whisk  till  it  is  of  the  consistence  of  a  thick  cream.  When  it  is 
removed  tVoni  the  fire,  and  rather  cool,  add  a  table  spoonful  of  rose  or 
orange,  water,  or  a  tea-spoonful  of  syrup  of  clove  gilly  flowers. 
When  quite  cold,  take  off  the  top  of  the  pie  and  pour  in  the  cream ; 
return  tl»o  cover,  either  whole  or  cut  in  quarters.  If  eggs  are  dear, 
one  whole  egg  will  whisk  up  with  a  spoonful  of  rice  flour  or  arrow- 
root, and  will  answer  for  thickening.  Richer  cream  may  be  prepared 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  cream  and  milk,  flavoured  with  almond, 
lemon,  sack,  ratafin,  or  brandy,  and  called  by  tho  name  of  the  article 
by  v.'hich  it  is  fl-ivoured  principally.  Bt;  careful  not  to  let  your  creams 
boil,  or  th<'y  will  curdle.     Creams  may  be  prepared  with  fresh  or  pre- 

*  served  fruits.  Luscious  fruits  are  improved  by  the  addition  of  lemon 
juice. 

052.  Birch's  Receipt  for  Mock  Cream. — Mix  half  a  spoonful  of 
flour  with  a  pint  of  new  milk;  let  it  simmer  five  minutes  to  take  oflf 
the  rawness-  of  the  flour;  then  beat  up  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  stir  it 
into  the  milk  while  boiling,  and  run  it  throuifh  a  fine  sieve.  A  lea- 
Sjwonful  of  arrow-root  would  do  better  than  flour. 

653.  Trifle. — Mix  in  a  large  bowl  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sifted 
sugar,  a  bit  of  lemon  peel  grated  fine,  and  the  juice  of  a  whole 
lemon,  half  a  gill  of  Lisbon  or  sweet  wine,  the  same  of  brandy,  and 
a  pint  and  a  half  of  good  cream.  Whisk  the  whole  well,  and  take 
*oft'  the  froth  as  it  rises  with  a  skimmer,  and  put  it  on  a  sieve;  con- 
tinu«j  to  whisk  it  till  you  have  enough  of  the  whip;  set  it  in  a  cold 


GRUELS,     CREAMS,     &C.  105 

place  to  drain  three  or  four  hours.  Then  put  in  a  dish  six  or  eight 
Bponge  biscuits,  two  ounces  of  almonds,  blanched  and  t^plit,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  ratafia,  some  grated  nutmeg  and  lemon  peel,  currant 
jelly  and  raspberry  jam,  half  a  pint  of  sweet  wine,  and  a  little 
brandy  ;  when  the  cakes  have  absorbed  the  liquor,  pour  over  about  a 
pint  of  custard,  made  rather  thicker  than  for  apple  pie;  and,  when 
wanted,  lay  on  plenty  of  the  whip,  and  throw  over  a  few  nonpariei 
comfits. 

654.  Whip  Sijllahub. — Make  a  whip  as  in  the  last  receipt ;  mix 
with  a  pint  of  cream  half  a  pint  (jf  sweet  vviue,  the  juice  of  a  lemon 
a  glass  of  brandy,  six  ounces  of  sifted  loaf-sugar,  grated  nutmeg; 
nearly  fill  the  custard  cups  with  the  mixture,  and  pnton  with  a  spoon 
some  of  the  whip. 

655.  Gooseberry  or  Apple  Fool. — Stew  green  gooseberries  or 
apples,  peeled  or  cored ;  add  to  them  a  little  moist  sugar,  enough  to 
draw  the  juice,  to  two  quarts  of  fruit  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar. 
When  quite  tender,  pulp  through  a  coarse  sieve;  add  what  more 
sugar  is  necessary  to  yonr  taste,  and  a  quart  of  new  milk  warm  from 
the  cow  ;  if  not  from  the  cow,  warm  it  by  the  fire  ;  a  tea-cup  full  of 
cream;  mix  with  it  an  egg,  or  two  yolks,  well  beaten.  Let  it  thicken 
in  the  milk;  be  careful  it  does  not  boil.  When  cold,  mix  the  fruit, 
and  stir  all  togcth  ;r  till  well  united.  A  little  grated  ginger  is  an  im- 
provement, nutmeg  and  lemon  rind  also,  and  half  a  glass  of  brandy. 

655.  Calves'  Fe^t  Jelly. — Take  our  calves'  feet,  not  from  the  tripe 
shop,  which  have  been  boiled  till  almost  all  the  gelatine  is  extracted, 
but  buy  them  at  the  butcher's.  Slit  them  in  two,  take  away  the  fat 
fiom  between  the  clavv's,  v^ash  them  well  in  lukewarm  water,  put 
them  in  a  large  saucepan  or  stew-pan,  cover  them  with  water;  when 
the  liquor  boils,  skim  it  well,  and  let  them  boil  gently  six  or  seven 
hours,  that  it  may  be  reduced  to  about  two  quarts.  Then  strain  it 
through  a  sieve,  and  put  it  by  till  next  day.  Then  take  off  all  the 
oily  part  which  is  at  the  top,  with  pieces  of  kitchen  paper  applied  to 
it;  by  so  doing  you  may  reniove  every  particle  of  the  oily  substance, 
without  wasting  any  of  the  jelly.  Put  the  jelly  in  the  stew-pan  to 
inelt;  add  a  pound  of  lump  sugar  to  it,  the  juice  of  lemons,  the  peel 
of  two,  six  whites  and  shells  beat  well  together,  and  a  bottle  of  Sherry 
or  Madeira;  whihk  the  whole  together  until  it  is  on  the  boil;  then  put 
it  by  the  side  of  the  stove,  and  let  it  simmer  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
Then  strain  it  through  a  jelly-bag;  what  is  strained  first  must  be  put 
into  the  bag,  and  repeated  until  it  is  quite. bright  and  clear.  Then 
put  the  jelly  in  moulds  till  it  is  cold  and  firm.  Put  it  in  a  cold  place. 
If  you  wish  to  have  it  very  stiff,  add  half  an  ounce  of  isinglass,  wiaen 
the  wine  is  put  in.  It  may  be  flavoured  by  the  juice  of  various  fruits 
and  spices,  &c.,  and  coloured  with  cochineal,  saffron,  spinach  juice,  red 
beet-root  juice  or  claret.  It  is  sometimes  made  with  cherry  brandy, 
noyeau  rouge,  or  essence  of  punch,  instead  of  wine.  Ten  shank  mut- 
ton bones,  which  may  be  bought  for  a  trifle,  will  give  as  much  jelly  as 
{,  calPs  foot. 

656.  Whey. — Boil  a  pint  of  milk,  put  to  it  a  glass  or  two  of  white 
14 


166  THE      COMPLETE      COOK. 

wine;  put  it  on  the  fire  till  it  boils  again;  then  pour  it  on  one  sido 
till  it  has  settled.  Pour  off  the  clear  whey,  and  sweeten  as  you  like. 
Cider  is  often  used  instead  of  wine,  or  half  the  quantity.  When  there 
is  no  fire  in  the  sick  room,  it  may  be  put  hot  into  a  bottle,  and  laid 
between  the  bed  and  mattrass.     It  will  keep  warm  several  hours. 

657.  Arrouj-root. — A  dessert  spoonful  will  thicken  half  a  pint.  It 
may  be  made  with  milk,  and  flavoured  at  pleasure,  and  according  to 
circumstances,  if  for  the  sick.  The  method  of  mixing  is,  to  moisten 
the  arrow-root  with  a  very  little  liquid,  and  stir  it  into  a  smooth  paste ; 
then  pour  the  rest  of  the  milk  to  it  in  a  boiling  state,  stirring  it  one 
way  all  the  time,  and  a  minute  or  two  afterwards.  If  it  is  not  thick, 
return  it  to  the  saucepan,  but  that  wastes  it.  If  you  pour  it  carefully, 
it  will  be  thick  by  mixing  the  milk,  and  quite  smooth. 

658.  Gruel  is  made  of  Scotch  oatmeal,  or  cracked  groats,  or  com- 
mon oatmeal.     The  Embden,  or  cracked  groats,  or  Scotch  oatmeal, 
is  preferable  to  the  common,  both  for  flavour  and  nutriment,  but  can- 
not be  made  so  quickly.     A  block-tin  saucepan,  or  a  brass  skillet,  is 
the  best  for  preserving  the  colour  of  the  gruel ;  and  a  hair  sieve  ta- 
strain.     Set  on  the  groats  in  cold  water,  half  a  pint  to  three  quarts  of 
water.     Let  it  boil  three  quarters  of  an  hour.     In  that  time  it  will  be 
reduced  to  two  quarts.     Then  strain  it.     The  groats  may  be  boiled  up 
again,  and  will  make  another  quart  of  gruei,  but  they  must  bo  boiled 
longer  than  at  first.     Scotch  oatmeal  may  be  made  a  mess  at  a  time. 
To  a  pint  of  water  two  ounces  of  oatmeal ;  mix  it  with  a  little  ctild ! 
water,  and  stir  it  into  the  rest  while  boiling.     This  may  be  strained  i 
or  not.     Let  it  boil  ten  minutes. 

659.  Robinson  s  prepared  Groats  are  prepared  in  the  same  way, , 
but  do  not  require  so  much  boiling  ;  a  large  spoonful  of  this  will  make ! 
a  pint  of  gruel.  A  bit  of  butter  and  salt  are  generally  stirred  in  gruel ; : 
or  sugar  and  nutmeg,  according  to  taste. 

660.  Rice  Gruel. — This  is  principally  used  for  bowel  complaints,, 
but  is  not  so  good  as  arrow-root.  A  table-spoonful  of  ground  rice  vvilll 
thicken  a  pint  of  milk  or  water.  Mix  it  in  the  same  manner  as  oat-- 
meal  gruel;  boil  in  a  bit  of  dried  orange  or  lemon  peel,  and  a  bit  of 
cinnamon.  Let  it  boil  about  ten  minutes,  sweeten  with  loaf-sugar, 
and  add  two  glasses  of  port,  or  one  of  brandy,  as  may  be  required. 

661.  Barley  Gruel. — This  also  is  used  to  give  to  a  person  in  a  state 
of  great  debility.  Either  Scotch  or  pearl  barley  may  be  used  ;  it  re- 
quires a  great  deal  of  washing.  If  time  allows,  it  should  be  boiled  ini 
a  small  quantity  of  cold  water;  when  it  boils  up,  pour  off;  add  fresh  \ 
boiling  water  for  the  gruel.  To  a  quart  of  water  put  two  ounces  of 
barley ;  boil  till  reduced  one  half,  then  strain  it  off.  Put  to  it  half  aa 
much  port  wine,  and  sugar  to  taste;  simmer  it  together  two  or  throe 
minutes.  Rewarm  it  from  time  to  time  as  wanted.  The  barley  will 
do  to  put  in  broth. 

662.  Thick  Mil/c,  or  Flour  Caudle,  is  used  for  the  same  purpose, 
A  large  table- spoonful  of  flour  will  thicken  a  pint.  It  may  be  fla- 
voured with  cinnamon,  or  dried  orange  or  lemon  peel.     Great  care 


GRUELS,      CREAMS,      &C.  167 

must  be  taken  that  it  does  not  burn.     A  double  saucepan  is  best  for 
tlie  purpone,  or  a  brass  kettle.     Half  water  may  be  used. 

663.  Barley  Water. — Scotch  or  pearl  barley  may  be  used.  Wash, 
or  boil  up,  as  tor  barley  gruel ;  to  a  quart  of  water,  barley  two  ounces. 
Simmer  till  of  an  -agreeable  thickness,  and  strain.  Boil  the  barley 
up  again,  and  it  will  make  a  pint  more.  This  is  a  very  cooling  drink. 
It  also  is  a  pleasant  thing  to  take  medicine  in.  Lemon  juice  and  peel, 
raisins,  figs,  liquorice  root,  sugar,  honey,  and  gum  arabic,  with  these 
additions  it  is  often  used  either  lor  complaints  of  the  chest,  confined 
bowels,  or  stranguary ;  or  powdered  nitre  a  drachm  to  a  quart,  ig 
often  found  good  for  fever.  (Merely  for  a  drink,  put  sugar  and  lemon 
peel.)  Rub  up  the  nitre  with  honey  or  sugar,  mix  it  with  a  little 
barley  water,  and  then  pour  it  on  the  whole  quantity  in  a  boiling  state. 
Stir  it  well  together. 

665.  Beef  Tea. — Take  a  pound  of  flesliy  beef,  cut  in  slices  (without 
the  least  bit  of  fat;)  boil  it  up  in  a  quart  of  water,  and  skim  it  well ; 
then  put  it  on  one  side  to  simmer  twenty  minutes.  Season  if  approved, 
but  generally  only  salt. 

666.  Shank  Jelly. — Soak  twelve  shanks  of  mutton  some  hours. 
Brush  and  scour  them  well.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan,  put  three  quarts 
of  water  to  them,  add  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  thirty  or  forty  black 
peppers,  twenty  Jamaica,  three  blades  of  mace,  an  onion,  and  a  crust 
of  bread. toasted  brown,  and  put  them  on  a  hot  hearth,  closely  covered. 
Let  them  simmer  five  hours  very  gently;  then  strain  it  off,  and  put  it 
in  a  cool  place.  It  may  have  the  addition  of  a  pound  of  beef,  if  ap- 
proved, for  flavour.  This  is  a  very  good  thing  for  people  who  are 
weakly. 

667.  Tapioca  Jelly. — Choose  the  largest  sort.  Pour  cold  water 
on,  and  wash  it  two  or  three  times ;  then  soak  it  in  fresh  water  five 
or  six  hours,  and  simmer  it  until  it  becomes  quite  clear.  Add  wine, 
lemon  juice,  and  sugar.  Boil  the  peel  of  the  lemon  in  it.  It  thickens 
very  much. 

667.  Posset. — This  is  more  potent  than  whey,  and  in  which  the 
curd  is  not  separated.  Either  ale  or  wine  will  turn  it.  Put  on  the 
fire,  in  a  kettle,  a  quart  of  new  milk,  with  a  stick  of  cinnamon;  cut  a 
slice  of  bread ;  as  the  milk  boils,  lay  it  at  the  top,  and  let  it  boil  a  mi- 
nute or  two ;  then  put  it  aside  to  soften.  Put  a  pint  of  very  strong 
ale,  with  sugar  and  nutmeg,  or  white  wine.  Boil  up  the  milk  again, 
take  the  bread  out  with  a  slice,  and  lay  on  the  ale  or  wine  ;  then  very 
gently  pour  over  the  boiling  milk,  and  let  it  stand  until  the  head  rises 
like  that  of  a  syllabub.  Then  serve.  A  richer  posset  may  be  made 
by  substituting  Naples  biscuits  for  bread.  A  brandy  posset  is  a  quar 
of  rich  custard  poured  over  a  glass  and  a  half  of  brandy. 

668.  Orgeat. — Boil  a  quart  of  new  milk  with  a  slick  of  cinnamon. 
Put  to  it  two  ounces  of  loaf-sugar,  and  let  it  cool.  Blaiich  and  beat 
to  a  paste,  with  a  little  rose  water,  three  ounces  of  sweet  almonds, 
and  two  dozen  bitter.  Stir  them  to^  the  milk;  boil  it  up  again,  and 
continue  stirring  till  cold.     Then  add  half  a  glass  of  brandy. 

669.  Orange  Marmalade. — Seville  oranges  are  in  perfection  about 


m 


THE      COMPLETE      COOK. 


tlie  end  of  March  and  bp,^inninpr  of  April,  at  wJiich  time  marmalade 
ehould  be  made.  Allow  two  pounds  of  sugar  to  each  pound  of  Seville 
oranges;  grate  the  oranges  lightly,  and  slice  them  down  with  a  very 
sharp  knife,  as  thin  as  possible,  and  straight  through.  Notiiing  must 
be  kept  out  but  the  seeds.  Clarify  the  sugar,  put  the  fruit  in,  and 
boil  it  slowly  for  at  least  an  hour,  until  the  chips  are  perfectly  tender 
and  clear,  and  it  will  jelly ;  a  little  of  the  grate  may  be  put  in,  if 
approved ;  the  rest  is  good  seasoning  for  puddings. 

670.  Fruit  Jelly. — Put  the  fruit,  carefully  picked,  into  a  stone  jar; 
cover  close;  set  it  in  a  kettle  of  cold  water,  which  reaches  not  more 
than  three  parts  the  height  of  the  jar.  Let  it  boil  half  an  hour  (more 
or  less,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  fruit;  black  currants  are  much 
longer  running  to  juice  than  either  red  currants  or  raspberries). 
Strain  through  a  jelly-bag  or  lawn  strainer;  or  the  juice  may  be 
strained  more  quickly,  by  setting  on  the  fruit  in  a  preserving  pan,  and 
carefully  stirring  round  the  sides  as  it  begins  to  heat,  that  it  may  not 
burn  ;  strain  through  a  jelly-bag  or  lawn  strainer.  To  every  pint  of 
juice  allow  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar.  Set  on  the  juice  over  a  clear  fire; 
when  it  boils,  put  in  the  sugar.  When  it  has  boiled  some  time,  and 
the  scum  thickens  and  gathers  together,  skim  it  on  to  a  sieve,  and 
continue  to  do  so  while  the  scum  rises;  what  runs  from  it  may  be 
returned  to  the  rest.  When  it  has  boiled  forty  minutes,  try  a  few 
drops,  by  putting  on  a  plate  in  a  cool  place.  If  this  become  stiff 
almost  immediately,  the  jelly  is  done  enough.  If  not,  it  must  be 
boiled  till  it  will.  The  jelly  may  then  be  strained  through  a  hair 
sieve,  but  if  it  have  been  properly  skimmed  this  is  not  necessary,  and 
it  is  a  great  waste.  The  best  way  is  to  pour  it  into  a  spouted  jug  that 
will  contain  the  whole,  and  then  into  small  jelly  pots  or  glasses.  Be 
very  careful  not  to  pour  aside,  or  smear  the  edges,  as  an  accident  of 
this  sort,  however  carefully  wiped  away,  renders  the  jelly  apt  to  turn 
mouldy.  White  currant  jelly  should  be  strained  through  a  muslin  or 
lawn  sieve. 

PRESERVES. 

671.  Jams.  —  In  making  jam  of  very  ripe  juicy  fruit,  a  portion  of 
jelly  may  be  taken  from  it  which  will  improve  the  jam,  taking  care 
to  have  sufficient  syrup  to  jelly  round  the  fruit.  Each  quart  of  fruit 
and  two  pounds  of  sugar  will  admit  the  removal  of  half  a  pint  of  jelly 
without  injury. 

Strawberries,  raspberries,  gooseberries,  and  currants:  put  an 
equal  weight  of  loat-sugar  and  fruit;  put  the  fruit  in  a  preserving 
pan  ;  bruise  it  a  little  and  put  it  on  the  stove;  stir  it  carefully  to  keep 
it  from  sticking  to  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  pan.  Let  it  boil  before 
adding  the  sugar,  and  if  there  is  plenty  of  juice  from  the  fruit,  so  that 
there  is  no  danger  of  it  burning,  let  it  boil  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before 
adding  the  sugar;  it  must  boil  half  an  hour  afterwards.  Skim  on  to 
a  sieve,  and  add  that  which  runs  through  to  it.  Try  the  stiffness  of 
the  jelly  by  putting  a  little  on  a  plate  and  setting  it  in  a  cool  place ; 


PRSS  ER  VES.  169 

if  it  becomes  stiff  when  quite  cold,  it  has  boiled  sufnciently;  if  not 
stitf,  boil  it  until  it  is. 

'i'ije  scarlet  or  mulberry  strawberries  are  the  best  for  preserving; 
they  must  be  quite  ripe  and  dry  :  to  three  pints  of  strawberries  allow 
halfapintof  red  currant  jelly.  For  gooseberry  jam,  take  the  small 
dark  hairy  sort  named  Crystal,  or  a  large  bright  hairy  sort  called  the 
Warrington.     Smooth  gooseberries  do  not  do  well  in  preserving. 

Lisbon  sugar  answers  very  well  when  the  jam  is  wanted  for  im- 
mediate use,  and  in  large  families  where  it  is  much  used.  Put  six 
pounds  of  Lisbon  sugar  to  seven  of  fruit.  Gooseberries  and  black 
currants  sliould  be  boiled  an  hour;  if  not  stiff  in  that  time,  boil  it 
lonjrer. 

672.  Cherries.  —  To  preserve  cherries  without  boiling,  take  fine 
ripe  Morello  cherries;  cut  the  stalks  an  inch  from  the  fruit,  end  put 
tliem  into  wide-mouthed  bottles;  when  full,  put  powdered  loaf-sugar 
over  the  top,  and  pour  in  a  little  brandy.  Cork  and  cement,  or  tie 
over  with  leather  and  bladder.  They  will  keep  all  the  winter 
through,  and  do  very  well  for  desserts. 

673.  To  bottle  Damsons  or  Gooseberries.  —  Damsons  should  have 
attained  their  dark  colour,  but  not  be  ripe.  Be  careful  not  to  bruise 
Ihem.  Fill  wide-mouthed  bottles:  shake  thegn  down  so  that  you  may 
get  as  many  in  as  possible.  To  each  bottle  put  a  wine  glass  of  good 
home-made  wine,  either  ginger  or  raisin  ;  no  other  sort  is  good.  Tie 
them  over  with  bladders,  and  put  them  to  stand  in  a  large  pot  with 
cold  water  to  reach  the  necks  of  the  bottles;  put  a  fire  under  the  pot, 
and  let  the  water  boil ;  when  the  bladders  begin  to  rise  and  puff,  prick 
them  with  a  pin.  As  soon  as  the  water  boils  remove  the  fire,  and  let 
the  bottles  remain  there  until  they  are  quite  cold.  Next  day  remove 
the  bladders,  and  put  over  the  top  a  thick  layer  of  powdered  loaf- 
sugar  and  a  spoonful  of  brandy;  then  cork  them  tight,  and  seal  or 
cement  them. 

674.  Gooseberries. — The  same  rules  do  for  gooseberries,  but  they 
should  be  full  grown,  and  gathered  when  green. 

675.  Currants. — Currants  full  grown,  but  not  turned,  may  be  pre- 
served in  the  same  way;  cut  the  stalks  of!' with  scissors. 

676.  To  keep  Codlins  several  months. — Gather  codlins  at  Midsum- 
mer of  a  middling  size;  put  them  into  an  earthen  pan,  pour  boiling 
water  over,  and  cover  the  pan  with  cabbage  leaves;  keep  them  by 
the  (ire  fill  they  would  peel,  but  do  not  peel  them;  then  pour  the 
water  off  till  both  are  quite  cold.  Place  the  codlins  in  a  stone  jar 
with  a  smallish  mouth,  and  pour  on  them  the  water  that  scalded  them. 
Cover  the  pot  with  bladder,  and  tie  very  close,  and  then  cover  it  with 
coarse  paper  again.  It  is  best  to  keep  them  in  small  pots,  such  aa 
will  be  used  at  once  when  opened. 

677.  To  preserve  Apricots  in  jelly. — Pare  the  ft-uit  very  thin  and 
stone  it;  weigh  an  equal  quantity  of  sugar  in  fine  powder  and  strew 
over  it.  Next  day  boil  very  gently  till  they  are  clear;  move  them 
into  a  bowl,  and  pour  the  liquor  over.  The  following  day  pour  the 
liquor  to  a  quart  of  codlin  liquor  made  by  boiling  and  straining,  and  a 

14* 


170  THE     COMPLETE     COOK. 

pound  of  fine  sugar;  let  it  boil  quickly  till  it  will  jelly ;  put  the  fruit 
into  it,  and  give  one  boil ;  skim  well  and  put  into  small  pots. 

678.  A  very  nice  preserve  of  Apr i cols, — Choose  the  finest  apricots 
when  quite  ripe;  pare  them  as  thin  as  possible,  and  weigh  them ;  lay 
them  in  halves  on  dishes,  with  the  hollow  parts  upwards;  have  an 
equal  weight  of  good  loaf-sugar  finely  pounded,  and  strew  it  over 
them;  break  the  stones,  and  blanch  the  kernels;  when  the  fruit  has 
lain  twelve  hours,  put  it  with  the  sugar  and  juice,  also  the  kernels, 
into  a  preserving  pan  ;  lot  it  simmer  very  gently  till  clear,  then  take 
out  the  pieces  of  apricots  singly ;  put  them  into  small  pots,  and  pour 
the  syrup  and  kernels  over  tliem.  The  scum  must  be  taken  oW  as  it 
rises.     Cover  with  brandy  paper. 

.Greengages  and  egg- plums  may  be  preserved  in  the  same  way. 

679.  Dried  Apricots.  — Proceed  as  above,  but  instead  of  pouring 
the  syrup  over  them  after  the  last  boil,  drain  them  close,  strew  over 
sifted  sugar  to  cover  them,  and  dry  them  on  a  wire  sieve  on  a  stove, 
or  in  a  slow  oven ;  they  must  be  turned  several  times,  but  ought  not 
to  be  cold  till  quite  dry. 

680.  Apricots  or  Peaches  in  brandy. — Wipe  and  v/eigh  the  fruit, 
and  take  a  quarter  of  the  weight  of  fine  powdered  sugar;  put  the  fruit 
into  an  ice-pot  that  sjiuts  very  close,  throw  the  suoar  over  it,  and 
then  cover  the  fruit  with  brandy.  Between  the  top  and  cover  of  the 
pot,  put  a  piece  of  double  cap-paper.  Set  the  pot  into  a  saucepan  of 
water  till  the  brandy  be  as  liot  as  you  can  possibly  bear  to  put  your 
finger  in,  but  it  must  not  boil.  Put  the  fruit  into  a  jar,  and  pour  the 
brandy  on  it.     When  cold,  put  a  bladder  over,  and  tie  it  down  tight. 

6S1.  Apricot  Jam. — Divide  fine  apricots  that  have  become  yellow, 
but  are  noi  over  ripe;  lay  the  hollow  part  uppermost  on  china  dishes, 
and  strew  over  twelve  ounces  of  sifted  sugar  to  every  pound  of  fruit ; 
Jet  it  lie  until  it  becomes  moist,  then  boil  it  twenty  minutes,  stirring 
it  well.  Blanch  the  kernels,  and  boil  with  the  jam. 
.  682.  To  preserve  Ginger. — If  your  ginger  can  be  had  green,  it  is 
best.  Pare  it  nicRly  witii  a  sharp  knife,  and  throw  it  into  cold  water 
as  you  pare  it,  to  preserve  the  whiteness.  If  fresh  ginger  cannot  be 
procured,  have  the  finest  large  white  races  of  Jamaica  ginger.  Boil 
it  several  times  in  water  till  tender,  then  pare  and  proceed  as  above; 
set  on  the  ginger  in  cold  water  and  boil  it.  Pour  off  the  liquor,  and 
put  cold  water;  then  boil  it  up  again.  Do  this  a  tiiird  time,  till  the 
ginger  is  tender,  then  throw  it  into  cold  water;  when  quite  cold, 
.drain  the  ginger  and  put  into  a  china  bowl.  Clarify  sugar  for  pre- 
serving it,  in  the  proportion  of  eight  pounds  of  sugar  to  seven  of  gin- 
g-er.  Let  the  sui^ar  become  cold,  then  pour  over  the  ginger  enough 
to  cover  it.  Let  it  stand  two  days,  then  strain  the  syrup  from  the 
ginger  and  boil  it  with  the  remainder  of  the  sugar;  let  them  boil 
together  twenty  minutes  or  half  an  hour.  When  cold,  again  pour  it 
over  the  ginger,  and  let  it  stand  three  or  four  days;  by  this  time  the 
ginger  will  have  finely  swollen.  Then  strain  the  syrup,  boil  it  up, 
and  pour  it  hot  over  the  ginger.  If  the  ginger  is  well  swollen,  and 
the  syrup  quite  rich,  nothing  more  is  necessary ;  but  if  not,  boil  it 


DIRECTIONS     FOR     CARVING.  17l 

affair,  at  the  interval  of  three  or  four  days.  Wide-mouthed  bottles 
are  best  for  keepins"  it.  Divide  the  syrup  to  each;  cork  and  seal,  or 
dip  in  bottle  cement. 

6S3.  Cherries  in  brandy. — Weiijh  the  finest  Morellos,  havin^f  cut 
off  half  the  stalk;  prick  thorn  with  a  now  needle,  and  drop  them  into 
ajar  or  wide-mouthed  bottle.  Pound  three-quarters  of  the  weisfht  of 
suffar  or  white  candy ;  strew,  fill  up  with  brandy,  and  tie  a  bladder 
over  them. 

684.  Danuon  Cheese. — It  is  sometimes  made  with  the  whole  skins 
and  pulp  of  the  fruit,  sometimes  with  the  pulp  only.  In  cither  case 
the  fruit  is  first  to  be  baked  or  boiled  in  a  stone  jar  till  it  is  tender, 
and  the  stones  will  separate.  If  the  skins  are  to  be  used,  merely  take 
out  the  stones  with  a  spoon,  then  measure  it  into  the  preserving-  pan. 
If  the  skins  are  objected  to,  rub  it  throuo'h  a  very  coarse  sieve,  that 
so  they  may  be  retained  with  the  stones.  Havin*?  measured  the  fruit, 
Get  it  over  a  clear  brisk  fire,  and  let  it  boil  quick  till  the  liquid  has 
evaporated  and  the  fruit  becomes  quite  dry ;  then  add  loaf-sufjar 
powdered,  in  the  proportion  of  half  a  pound  to  a  quart  of  fruit,  and  let 
it  go  on  boiling-  till  the  jam  candies  to  the  sides  of  the  pan.  The 
stones  should  be  cracked,  and  the  kernels  skinned  and  boiled  in  the 
jam ;  this  gives  it  a  very  pretty  appearance,  but  some  people  object 
to  it  It  should  be  put  out  in  shallow  vessels,  such  as  potting  jars, 
saucers,  and  so  fbrtii,  and  tirrned  out  when  brought  to  table. 

DIRECTIONS    FOR    CARVING. 

In  preparing  meat  for  the  table,  and  in  laying  out  the  table,  refer- 
ence ought  to  be  had  to  the  carving  department — a  very  onerous  one 
to  all,  and  to  many  a  very  disagreeable  one.  The  carving  knife  of 
course  ought  to  bo  sharp,  and  if  to  be  used  by  a  lady,  in  particular, 
light  and  handy ;  dexterity  and  address  in  the  manner  of  using  it 
boing  more  required  than  strength,  either  in  the  knife  or  the  carver. 
When  a  lady  presides,  a  seat  sufficiently  high  for  her  to  have  a  com- 
plete command  over  the  joints  should  be  provided,  and  the  dish  should 
he  sufficiently  deep  and  capacious,  so  as  not  to  endanger  the  splash- 
ing of  the  gravy.  It  should  also  be  placed  as  near  to  the  carver  as 
possible,  leaving  room  for  his  or  her  plate.  A  knife  with  a  long 
blade  is  required  for  a  large  flashy  joint;  for  ham  or  bacon  a  middling 
sized,  sharp-pointed  one  is  preferable,  and  for  poultry  or  game  a  short 
knife  and  sharp-pointed  is  best.  Some  like  this  knife  a  little  curved. 
We  do  not  presume  to  give  any  directions  as  respects  the  serving  of 
the  guests;  no  one  it  is  presumed  would  take  the  head  of  the  table 
not  acquainted  with  the  common  rules  of  politeness,  which  principally 
consist  in  endeavouring  to  please  everybody. 

685.  Fish. — As  fish  is  the  first  thing  to  be  carved,  or  served,  we 
shall  first  speak  of  it.  In  helping  fish,  take  care  not  to  break  the  flakes, 
which  in  cod  and  fine  fresh  salmon,  and  some  other  sorts,  are  large. 
A  fish  trowel  is  necessary,  not  to  say  indispensable,  in  serving  many 
kinds  of  fish,  particularly  the  larger  sort. 


172  THE    COMPLETE     COOK. 

686.  Turbol,  <^'c. — The  trowel  is  to  be  carried  flatways  from  the 
middle  of  the  fish,  and  the  carver  should  bring-  out  as  mucii  meat  as 
will  lie  upon  it.  The  thick  part  is  the  best,  and  of  course  most  es- 
teemed. When  one  side  is  cleared,  the  bones  ought  to  be  taken 
away — which  done,  serve  the  under  part.  The  meat  on  the  fins  is 
cronsidered  by  some  a  great  delicacy.  Halibuts,  plaice,  and  other 
larofe  fish,  are  served  in  a  similar  way. 

687.  A  Cod's  Head  and  Shoulders,  perhaps,  require  more  atten 
tiou  in  serving-  than  any  other.  It  is,  too,  considered  a  handsome 
dish.  In  carving,  introduce  the  trowel  along  the  back,  and  take  otFa 
piece  quite  down  to  the  bone,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  flakes.  Put 
in  a  spoon  and  take  out  the  sound,  a  jelly-like  substance,  which  lies 
inside  the  back-bone.  A  part  of  this  should  be  served  with  every 
slice  of  fish.  The  bones  and  glutinous  parts  of  a  cod's  head  are  much 
liked  by  most  people,  and  are  very  nourishing. 

688.  Salmon — Cut  slices  along  the  back-bone,  and  also  along  the 
flank.  The  flank  or  thin  part  is  the  best  and  richest,  and  is  preferred 
by  all  accomplished  gourmands.  Tiie  back  is  the  most  solid  and  thick. 
The  tail  of  salmon  is  not  so  fine  as  the  other  parts.  The  head  is 
seldom  used.  The  liver,  melt,  and  roe,  are  generally  served,  but 
seldom  eaten. 

689.  Soles  are  easily  carved.  You  have  only  to  cut  through  the 
middle  part  of  the  fish,  bone  and  all,  and  subdivide  and  serve  accord- 
ing to  the  size  offish.  The  thick  parts  are  best;  the  roes  when  well 
done  are  very  nice. 

690.  Mackerel. — The  trowel  should  be  carried  under  the  meat, 
horizontally  over  the  back-bone,  so  as  to  raise  one  side  of  the  meat 
from  the  bone.  Remove  the  bone,  and  serve  the  other  side  of  the  fish. 
When  fresh,  well  cleaned,  and  well  done,  the  upper  end  is  considered 
the  best.     The  roes  are  much  liked. 

691.  Eels,  IVhiting  Jack,  c^c,  when  intended  to  be  fried,  are  pre- 
viously cut  in  pieces  of  a  suitable  size  for  serving.  When  they  are 
boiled,  cut  through  them  in  the  same  way  as  soles.  Large  jacks  will 
admit  of  slices  being  taken  off  with  a  trowel  without  the  bones.  Small 
fish  are  served  whole. 

692.  Ailch  Bone  of  Beef. — Cut  a  slice  an  inch  thick  all  through. 
Put  this  by,  and  serve  in  slices  from  the  remainder.  Some  persons, 
however,  like  outside,  and  others  take  off"  a  thinner  slice  before  serv- 
ing, for  the  sake  of  economy.  The  rich,  delicious,  soft  fat,  which  re- 
sembles marrow,  lies  at  the  back  of  the  bone :  the  firm  fat  is  cut  in 
liorizontal  slices  at  the  edge  of  the  meat.  Some  prefer  one  and  some 
the  other.  The  skewer  used  to  keep  the  meat  together  when  boiling, 
should  be  taken  out  before  coming  to  the  table,  and,  if  necessary,  be 
replaced  by  a  silver  one. 

693.  A  Round,  w  Buttock,  aiid  thick  Flank  of  Beef,  are  carved 
in  horizontal  slices,  that  is,  in  slices  from  the  top.  Pare  and  neatly 
cut  all  round.     Some  prefer  the  silver  side. 

694.  A  Brishet  of  Beef  is  cut  lengthways,  right  down  to  the  bone. 


DIRECTIONS     FOR      CARVING.  173 

The  soft  mellow  fat  is  found  underneath'.    The  upper  part  is  firm,  but 
gristly ;  if  well  done,  they  are  equally  good  to  our  taste. 

695.  Sirloin  of  Beef,  the  glory  of  the  dinner-table,  may  be  com- 
menced carving,  either  by  beginning  at  the  end,  and  cutting  slice? 
along  the  bones,  or  across  the  middle ;  but  this  latter  mode  wi 
draiu  the  gravy  from  the  remainder.  The  inside  is  very  juicy  and 
tender,  but  the  outside  is  frequently  preferred.  The  inside  fat  is  rich 
and  marrowy,  and  is  considered  loo  much  so  by  many.  The  inside 
of  a  sirloin  is  frequently  dressed  (in  various  ways)  separately. 

696.  Fillet  of  Veal  is  the  corresponding  part  to  the  round  in  an  ox, 
and  is  cut  in  the  same  way.  If  the  outside  brown  be  not  desired, 
serve  tlie  next  slice.  Cut  deep  into  the  stuffing,  and  help  a  thin  slice, 
as  likewise  of  fat.  A  fillet  of  veal  should  be  cut  very  smooth  and 
thin. 

697.  Breast  of  Veal  answers  to  the  brisket  of  an  ox.  It  should  be 
cracked  lengthways,  across  the  middle  of  the  bones,  to  divide  the 
thick  gristly  part  from  the  ribs.  There  is  a  great  difference  in  these 
parts ;  and  as  some  prefer  the  one,  and  some  the  other,  the  best  way 
is  to  ask  to  which  the  preference  is  to  be  given.  The  burr,  or  sweet- 
meat, is  much  liked,  and  a  part  should  be  served  with  each  slice. 

698.  Necks  and  Loins  of  all  sorts  of  meat,  if  properly  jointed  by 
the  butcher,  require  only  to  be  cut  through  ;  but  when  the  joints  are 
too  thick  for  one,  cut  a  slice  between  each,  that  is,  cut  one  slice  with- 
out bone,  and  another  with.     Some  prefer  one,  and  some  the  other. 

699.  Calfs  Head  affords  a  great  variety  of  excellent  meat,  differ- 
ing in  texture  and  flavour,  and  therefore  requires  a  judicious  and 
ekiltul  carver  properly  to  divide  it.  Cut  slices  longways  under  the 
eye,  taking  care  that  the  knife  goes  close  to  the  bone.  The  throat 
sweetbread,  or  kernel,  lies  in  the  fleshy  part,  at  the  neck  end,  which 
you  should  help  a  slice  of  with  the  other  part.  The  eyes  are  con- 
eidered  great  delicacies  by  some.  They  should  be  taken  out  with 
the  point  of  your  knife,  and  each  cut  into  two.  A  piece  of  the  palate 
(which  lies  under  the  head),  a  slice  of  the  tongue,  with  a  portion  o^ 
the  brains,  should  be  given  to  each  guest.  On  drawing  out  the  jav/- 
bone,  some  delicious  lean  will  be  found.  The  heads  of  oxen,  sheep, 
lambs,  &c.,  are  cut  in  the  same  way  as  those  of  calves. 

700.  A  Leg  of  Mutton,  ^c. — Begin  to  cut  in  the  midway,  between 
the  knuckle  and  farther  end.  The  slices  should  be  thin  and  deep.  If 
the  outside  is  not  fat  enough,  cut  some  from  the  fat  on  the  broad  end, 
in  slices.  Many  prefer  the  knuckle,  or  venison  bit,  to  the  middle 
part;  the  latter  is  the  most  juicy — the  former,  in  good,  well-done 
mutton,  is  gelatinous  and  delicately  tender.  There  is  some  good  meat 
on  the  back  of  the  \eg,  or  aitch  bone ;  this  should  be  cut  lengthways. 
It  is,  however,  seldom  carved  when  hot.  To  cut  out  the  cramp  bone, 
take  hold  of  the  shank  in  your  left  hand,  and  steadily  cut  down  to  the 
thigh  bone ;  then  pass  the  knife  under  the  cramp  bone,  hege  of 
Jamb  and  pork  are  cut  in  the  same  way. 

701.  A  Saddle,  or  Collar  of  Mutton,  sometimes  called  the  chine, 
snould  be  cut  lengthways,  in  long  slices,  beginning  close  to  the  back- 


i1r4  .        THE     COMPLETE    COOK. 

bone,  and  thus  leavinor  the  ribs  bare.  The  fat  is  taken  from  the  outer 
ends.  The  inside  ot'  the  loin  is  very  tender,  and  in  the  opinion  of 
Bome  gourmands  is  preferred  to  the  upper  part.  It  is  best,  perhaps, 
to  cut  the  inside  lengthways. 

702.  Shoulder  of  Mutton. — To  carve  this  joint  (which  when  pro- 
perly dressed  is  very  fine  eating)  economically  for  a  very  small  family, 
the  best  way  is  to  cut  away  the  underneath  part  when  hot,  and  if  any 
more  is  required,  to  lake  it  from  the  knuckle.  This  plan  leaves  all 
the  gravy  in  the  upper  part,  which  is  very  nice  when  cold.  The 
usual  way,  however,  of  carving  a  shoulder  of  mutton,  is  to  cut  slices 
deep  to  the  bone,  in  the  hollow  part.  The  prime  part  of  the  fat  lies 
on  the  Outer  edge,  and  is  to  be  cut  in  thin  slices.  Some  good  delicate 
slices  of  lean  may  be  taken  from  each  side  of  the  ridge  of  the  blade- 
bone.     No  slices  can  be  cut  across  the  edge  of  the  blade-bone, 

'  703.  Haunch  of  Venison  or  Mutton. — Cut  down  to  the  bone  in 
circular  slices  at  the  narrow  end,  to  let  out  the  gravy.  You  may 
then  turn  the  broad  end  of  the  haunch  towards  you;  insert  the  knife 
in  the  middle  of  the  cut,  and  cut  thin  deep  slices  lengthways  to  the 
broad  end  of  the  haunch.  The  fat  of  venison  is  much  esteemed ; 
those  who  help  should  take  care  properly  to  apportion  both  the  fat 
and  gravy. 

704.  Fore-quarter  of  Lamb. — Separate  the  shoulder  from  the 
scovel,  or  breast  and  ribs,  by  passing  the  knife  under  it  (the  shoulder). 
The  shoulder  of  grass  lamb,  which  is  generally  pretty  large,  should ' 
have  a  little  lemon  or  Seville  orange  juice,  squeezed  over  it,  and  be 
sprinkled  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  then  placed  upon  another 
dish.  If  the  lamb  be  small,  it  is  usual  to  replace  the  shoulder.  The 
breast  and  ribs  should  be  cracked  across  by  the  butcher,  and  be 
divided.  Help  either  from  that,  the  ribs,  or  shoulder,  according  to 
choice. 

705.  Ham. — The  most  economical  way  of  cutting  a  ham,  which  is 
seldom  or  never  eaten  at  one  meal,  is  to  begin  to  cut  at  the  knuckle 
end,  and  proceed  onwards.  The  usual  way,  however,  is  to  begin  at 
the  middle,  and  cut  in  long  slices  through  the  thick  fat.  By  this 
means  you  come  at  once  to  the  prime,  but  you  let  out  the  gravy. 
Another  plan  is  to  cut  a  small  hole  on  the  top  of  the  ham,  and  withi 
a  very  sharp  knife  enlarge  the  hole,  by  cutting  thin  circular  slices. , 
In  this  latter  way  you  preserve  the  gravy,  and  of  course  keep  the ' 
meat  moist  to  be  eaten  when  cold. 

706.  Tongue. — This  much-esteemed  relish,  which  often  supplies 
the  place  of  ham,  should  be  cut  in  thin  slices  across,  beginning  at  the 
thick  middle  part.     Serve  slices  of  fat  and  kernel  from  the  root. 

707.  A  Sucking  Pig  is  generally  slit  down  the  middle  in  the 
kitchen,  and  the  cook  garnishes  the  dish  with  the  jaws  and  ears. 
Separate  a  shoulder  from  the  carcase  on  one  side,  and  then  do  the 
same  thing  with  the  leg.  Divide  the  ribs,  which  are  frequently  con- 
sidered the  most  choice  part,  into  two  or  three  helpings,  presenting 
an  ear  or  jaw  with  them  as  far  as  they  will  go,  and  plenty  of  stance. 
Some  persons  prefer  the  leg,  because  not  so  rich  and  luscious  as  tho 


f  DIRECTIONS     FOR     CARVING.  175 

ribs.  The  neck  end  between  the  shoulders  is  also  sometimes  pre- 
ferred. The  joints  may  be  divided  into  two  each,  or  pieces  may  be 
cut  from  them. 

708.  A  Fowl — The  legs  of  a  boiled  fowl  are  always  bent  inwards, 
and  tucked  into  the  belly,  but  before  it  is  put  upon  the  table,  the 
skewers  by  which  they  are  secured  oug-ht  to  be  removed.  The  fowl 
should  be  laid  on  the  carver's  plate,  and  the  joints  as  they  are  cut  off 
placed  on  the  dish.  In  taking  off  the  wing,  the  joint  only  must  be 
divided  with  the  knife,  for,  by  lifting  up  the  pinion  of  the  wing  with 
the  fork,  and  then  drawing  it  towards  the  legs,  the  muscles  will  se- 
parale  in  a  much  better  form  than  you  can  effect  by  cutting  with  a 
knife.  Next  place  the  knife  between  the  leg  and  body,  and  cut  to 
the  bone ;  turn  the  leg  back  with  the  fork,  and  the  joint  will  give  way, 
if  the  fowl  be  young  and  well  done.  The  merrythought  is  taken 
out  when  the  legs  and  wings  are  all  removed  ;  the  neck-bones  are 
taken  off  by  putting  in  the  knife,  and  pressing  it  under  the  long  broad 
part  of  the  bone,  then  lift  the  neck-bone  up  and  break  it  off  from  the 
part  that  sticks  to  the  breast.  The  breast  itself  has  now  to  be 
divided  from  the  carcase,  by  cutting  through  the  tender  ribs  close 
to  the  breast,  quite  down  to  the  tail;  then  lay  the  back  upwards, 
put  your  knife  into  the  bone  half-v;ay  from  the  neck  to  the  rump, 
and  on  raising  the  lower  end  it  will  readily  separate.  The  last 
tning  to  be  done  is  to  turn  the  rump  from  you,  and  neatly  to  take  off 
the  two  sidesmen.  Each  part  should  be  neatly  arranged  on  the  dish, 
but  it  is  almost  impossible  to  give  effectual  written  descriptions  for 
carving  fowls;  the  best  plan  is  to  observe  carefully  a  good  carver,  and 
th^n,  by  a  little  practice,  you  will  become  perfect.  The  breast  and 
the  wings  are  considered  the  best  parts. 

709.  A  Pheasant. — Take  out  the  skewers;  fix  your  fork  in  the 
centre  of  the  breast,  slice  it  down;  remove  the  leg  by  cutting  in  the 
sideway  direction,  then  take  off  the  wing,  taking  care  to  miss  the  neck- 
bone.  When  the  legs  and  wings  are  all  taken  off,  cut  off  slices  of 
the  breast.  The  merrythought  is  separated  by  passing  the  knife 
under  it  towards  the  neck;  the  other  parts  are  cut  as  before  directed 
in  a  fowl.  The  breast,  wings,  and  merrythought,  are  the  favourites, 
particularly  the  former,  but  the  leg  has  a  higher  flavour. 

710.  Partridges  and  Pigeons. — Partridges  are  carved  like  fowls, 
but  the  breast  and  wings  are  not  often  divided,  the  bird  being  small. 
The  wing  is  the  prime  bit,  particularly  the  tip;  the  other  choice  parts 
are  the  breast  and  merrythought.  Pigeons  may  be  cut  in  two,  either 
from  one  end  to  the  other  of  the  bird,  or  across. 

711.  Goose  or  Duck. — Cut  off  the  apron  of  the  goose  and  pour  into 
the  body  a  large  spoonful  of  gravy,  which  should  be  mixed  with  the 
stuffing.  Some  persons  put,  instead  of  the  gravy,  a  glass  of  port  wine, 
in  which  a  large  tea-spoonful  of  mustard  has  been  previously  stirred. 
Cut  as  many  slices  from  the  breast  as  possible,  and  serve  with  a  por- 
tion of  the  apron  to  each  plate.  When  the  breast  is  all  served,  and 
not  till  then,  cutoff  the  joints;  but  observe,  the  joints  of  water-fowl 
are  wider  spread  and  go  farther  back  than  those  of  land-fowl. 


i7^  THE     C  O  M  r  li  E  T  E     COOK.     •  (I 

712.  A  Turkey  should  not  be  divided  till  the  breast  is  disposed  of;* 
but  if  it  be  thought  proper  to  divide,  the  same  process  must  be  fol-.t 
lowed  as  directed  in  a  fowl.  The  followiniif  is  the  bast  mode  of  serving) 
this  delicious  bird  :  Begin  cuttinf^- close  to  the  breasl-bone,  scooping 
round  so  as  to  leave  the  mere  pinions.  Each  slice  should  carry  with 
it  a  portion  of  the  pudding,  or  force  meat,  with  which  the  craw  is 
stuffed. 

713.  Hare. — Put  the  point  of  the  knife  under  the  shoulder,  and  cut^ 
all  the  way  down  to  the  rump,  on  the  side  of  the  back-bone.  By  doingv 
the  same  on  the  other  side,  the  hare  will  be  divided  into  three  parts., 
The  back  should  be  cut  into  four  parts :  the  shoulder  must  be  taken, 
off  in  a  circular  line.  The  pieces  as  they  are  cut  should  be  neatly 
placed  on  the  dish  ;  in  helping,  some  pudding  and  gravy  should  be 
given  to  each  person.  The  above  mode  of  carving  is  only  applicable 
to  a  young  hare;  when  the  hare  is  old,  it  is  not  practicable  to  divide 
it  down,  but  put  the  knife  between  the  leg  and  back,  and  give  it  a  lit- 
tle turn  inwards  at  the  joints,  which  you  must  endeavour  to  hit,  and 
then  cut,  and  with  the  fork  turn  it  completely  back.  When  both  legs 
are  taken  off',  you  will  find  a  fine  colJop  on  each  side  of  the  back, 
which  back  you  may  divide  into  as  many  pieces  as  are  necessary. 
Take  off  the  shoulders,  which  some  persons  are  very  i'ond  of,  and 
which  are  called  the  sportsman's  pieces;  but  the  legs  and  back 
are  considered  the  prime.  When  all  the  guests  are  served,  it  is  usual 
to  take  oft' the  head,  and  by  putting  the  knife  between  the  upper  and 
lower  jaw,  you  may  divide  them;  then  lay  the  upper  flat  upon  your 
plate,  put  the  point  of  the  knife  into  the  centre,  and  cut  the  head  into 
two;  you  will  thus  get  at  the  brains,  which  may  be  served  with  the 
ears  and  tail  to  those  who  like  them.  Some  persons  direct  tlie  carver 
to  serve  with  slices,  as  much  as  possible,  off  the  sides  of  the  back-bone, 
from  the  shoulder  to  the  rump. 

714.  Rabbits  are  generally  cut  up  in  the  same  way  as  hares.  The 
back  and  legs  are  considered  the  best  parts.  The  back  should  be  cut 
into  two  pieces. 

GARNISHES. 

Parsley  is  the  most  universal  garnish  to  all  kinds  of  cold  meat, 
poultry,  fish,  butter,  cheese,  and  so  forth.  Horse-radish  is  the  garnish 
for  roast  beef,  and  for  fish  in  general ;  for  the  latter,  slices  of  lemon 
are  sometimes  laid  alternately  with  heaps  of  horse-radish. 

Slices  of  lemon  for  boiled  fowl,  turkey,  and  fish,  and  for  roast  veal 
and  calPs  head. 

Carrot  in  slices  for  boiled  beef,  hot  or  cold. 

Barberries  fresh  or  preserved  for  game. 

Red  beet-root  sliced  for  cold  meat,  boiled  beef,  and  salt  fish. 

Fried  smelts  as  garnish  for  turbot. 

Fried  sausages  or  force  meat  balls  round  roast  turkey,  capon,  or 
fowl. 

Lobster  coral  and  parsley  round  boiled  fish.       .,^    i: ...,;..  i^u.- 


SETTING     OUT     A     TABLE.  177 

Fennel  for  mackerel  and  salmon,  either  fresh  or  pickled. 

Currant  jelly  for  game,  also  for  custard  or  bread  pudding:. 

Seville  orange  in  slices  for  wild  ducks,  widgeons,  teal  and  so  forth. 

Mint,  either  with  or  without  parsley,  for  roast  lamb,  either  hot  or 
cold. 

Pickled  gherkins,  capers,  or  onions,  for  some  kMids  of  boiled  meat 
and  etews. 

SETTING    OUT    A    TABLE. 

A  prudent  housekeeper,  in  providing  for  a  family,  or  for  company, 
will  endeavour  to  secure  variety,  and  avoid  extravagance,  taking  care 
not  to  have  two  dishes  alike,  or  nearly  alike,  such  as  ducks  and  pork, 
veal  and  fowls;  and  avoiding,  when  several  sorts  are  required,  to  have 
such  things  as  cannot  be  eaten  cold,  or  cannot  be  warmed  or  re-cooked. 
There  is  a  great  waste  occasioned  if  these  principles  are  overlooked 
in  providing  for  a  party.  When  a  table  is  to  be  set  out,  it  is  usual 
to  place  nearly  the  whole  provisions  at  once ;  but  if  comfort  is  the 
object,  it  is  better  to  have  each  dish  and  its  accompanying  sauces  and 
vegetables  sent  in  separately,  hot  from  the  kitchen. 

For  plain  family  dinners,  soup  or  pudding  is  placed  at  the  head  of 
the  table,  and  meat  at  the  lower  end  ;  vegetables  on  each  side  of  the 
middle,  and  sauce  boats  in  the  middle.  Boiled  meat  at  the  top;  roast 
meat  at  bottom;  soup  in  the  middle;  then  the  vegetables  and  sauce 
boats  at  cross  corners  of  the  middle  dish.  Poultry  or  mutton  at  bot- 
tom ;  boiled  poultry  at  top;  roast  poultry,  or  game,  at  bottom ;  vege- 
tables and  sauces  so  disposed  as  to  give  the  appearance  of  the  whole 
table  being  covered  without  being  crowded. 

When  there  are  several  courses,  the  first  consists  of  soups,  stews, 
boiled  fish,  fricassees;  poultry  with  ham,  bacon,  tongue,  or  chine; 
and  roast  or  boiled  meat. 

For  second  courses,  birds  and  gnme  of  all  sorts,  fish  fried,  pickled, 
or  potted ;  pigeon  pies,  patties,  brawn,  omelets,  oysters  stewed  or 
scolloped,  and  lobsters  or  crabs.  Tarts,  cheesecakes,  and  sweet  dishes 
of  all  kinds,  are  sometimes  placed  v;ith  the  second  course,  but  more 
froqunntly  form  separate  courses  by  themselves. 

The  dessert  is  usually  served  in  another  room,  which  is  a  great  ac- 
commodation both  to  the  servants,  who  can  prepare  it  at  leisure,  and 
to  the  guests  in  quitting  the  smell  of  a  hot  dinner.  A  d'oyley,  a 
finger  glass,  two  wine  glasses,  a  china  dessert  plate,  and  silver  knife 
and  fork,  and  spoon,  to  each  person.  Every  variety  of  fruit,  fresh  and 
preserved,  is  admissible  ;  and  biscuits,  and  pound-cake,  with  an 
epergne  or  stand  of  jellies  in  the  middle.  Varieties  of  wine  are 
generally  placed  at  each  end. 

The  modern  practice  of  dining  late  has  added  importance  to  the 
luncheon,  and  almost  annihilated  the  supper  meal.  The  following 
Rre  suitable  for  either:  soups,  sandwiches  of  ham,  tongue,  dried 
fiausage,  or  beef;  anchovy,  toast  or  husks;  potted  beef,  lobster,  or 
cheese;  dried  salnion,  lobsters,  crayfish  or  oysters,  poached  eggs; 
15 


178  THE     COMPLETE     COOR. 

patties;  pigeon  pies;  sansacrps;  toast  with  marrow  (served  on  a 
water  plate),  cheesecakes;  pulis,  mashed  or  scolloped  potatoes,  brocoli ; 
asparagus,  sea-kale  with  toast,  creams,  jellies,  preserved  or  dried 
fruits,  salad,  radishes,  &,c.  If  a  more  substantial  supper  is  required, 
it  may  consist  of  fish,  poultry,  game;  slices  of  cold  meat,  pies  of 
chickens,  pigeons,  or  game ;  lamb  or  mutton  chops,  cold  poultry, 
broiled  with  high  seasoning,  or  fricasseed;  rations  or  toasted  cheese. 

MADE  WINES,  &C.--GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  MAKING 

715.  The  best  method  of  making  these  wines  is  to  boil  the  ingre- 
dients, and  ferment  with  yeast.  Boiling  makes  the  wine  more  soft 
and  mellow.  Some,  however,  mix  the  juice,  or  juice  and  fruit,  with 
sugar  and  water  unboiled,  and  leave  the  ingredients  to  ferment  spon- 
taneously. Your  fruit  should  always  be  prime,  and  gathered  dry,  and 
picked  clean  from  stalks,  &c.  The  lees  of  wine  are  valuable  for  dis- 
tillation, or  making  vinegar.  When  wine  is  put  in  the  cask  the  fer- 
mentation will  be  renewed.  Clear  away  the  yeast  as  it  rises,  and  fill 
up  with  wine,  for  which  purpose  a  small  quantity  should  be  reserved. 
If  brandy  is  to  be  added,  it  must  be  when  the  fermentation  has  nearly 
subsided,  that  is,  when  no  more  yeast  is  thrown  up  at  the  bung-hole, 
and  when  the  hissing  noise  within  is  not  very  perceptible:  then  mix  a 
quart  of  brandy  with  a  pound  of  honey  ;  pour  into  the  cask,  and  paste 
stiff  brown  paper  over  the  bung-hole.  Allow  no  hole  for  a  vent  peg, 
lest  it  should  once  be  forgotten,  and  the  whole  cask  of  wine  be  spoiled. 
If  the  wine  wants  vent,  it  will  be  sure  to  burst  the  paper;  if  not,  the 
paper  will  sufficiently  exclude  all  air.  Once  a  week  or  so,  it  must 
be  looked  to;  if  the  paper  is  burst  renew  it,  and  continue  to  do  so  till 
it  remains  clear  and  dry.  A  great  difference  of  opinion  prevails  as  to 
racking  the  wine,"  or  suffering  it  to  remain  on  the  lees.  Those  whc 
adopt  the  former  plan  do  it  at  the  end  of  six  months;  draw  off  the 
wine  perfectly  clear,  and  put  it  into  a  fresh  cask,  in  which  it  is  to  re- 
main six  months,  and  then  be  bottled.  If  this  plan  is  adopted,  it  may 
be  better,  instead  of  putting  the  brandy  and  honey  in  the  first  cask, 
to  put  it  in  that  in  which  the  wine  is  to  be  racked;  but  on  the  whole 
it  is,  perhaps,  preferable  to  leave  the  wine  a  year  in  the  first  cask, 
and  then  bottle  it  at  once.  All  domestic  wines  improve  more  in  the 
cask  than  in  the  bottle.  Have  very  nice  clear  and  dry  bottles;  do 
not  fill  them  too  high.  Good  soft  corks,  made  supple  by  soaking  in  a 
little  of  the  wine  ;  press  them  in,  but  do  not  knock.  Keep  the  bottles 
lying  in  saw-dust.  This  plan  will  apply  equally  well  to  raspberries, 
cherries,  mulberries,  and  all  kinds  of  ripe  summer  fruits. 

716.  Ginger  Wine. — To  make  eighteen  gallons  of  v;ine — twenty 
gallons  of  water,  fifty  pounds  of  loaf-sugar,  two  and  a  half  pounds  of 
bruised  ginger,  hops  a  quarter  of  a  pound,  the  shaved  rinds  of  eighteen 
lemons  or  Seville  oranges ;  let  these  boil  together  for  two  hours,  care- 
fully skimming.  Pour  it,  without  straining,  on  to  seven  pounds  of 
raisins:  when  cool  put  in  the  juice  of  the  lemons  or  oranges;  rmse 
the  pulp  in  a  pint  or  two  of  the  wine,  and  strain  it  to  the  rest.    JFer 


MADE     WINES,     &C.  179 

in«nl  it  with  yeast;  mix  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  solid  yeast  with  a  pint 
or  two  of  the  wine,  and  with  that  work  the  rest;  next  day  tun  it, 
raisin?,  hops,  ginger  and  all  together,  and  fill  it  up  for  a  fortnight 
either  with  wine  or  with  good  new  beer;  then  dissolve  three  ounces 
of  isinglass  in  a  little  of  the  wine,  and  return  it  to  the  rest  to  fine  it: 
a  few  days  afterwards  bung  it  close.  This  wine  will  be  in  full  per- 
fection in  six  months.  It  may  be  bottled,  but  is  apt  to  fly;  and  if 
made  exactly  by  the  above  directions,  and  drawn  from  the  cask,  it 
will  sparkle  like  champaign. 

717.  3Jead,  Melheglin,  or  Honey  Wine. — Boil  honey  in  water  for 
an  hour :  the  proportion  is  from  three  to  four  ix>unds  to  each  gallon  : 
half  an  ounce  of  iiops  will  both  refine  and  preserve  it,  but  is  not  com- 
monly added  :  skim  carefully,  draining  the  skimmings  through  a  hair 
sieve,  and  return  what  runs  through.  When  a  proper  coolness,  stir 
in  yeast;  a  tea-cup  full  of  solid  yeast  will  serve  for  nine  gallons.  Tun 
it,  and  let  it  work  over,  filling  it  up  till  the  fermentation  subsides. 
Paste  over  brown  paper,  and  watch  it  (see  No.  725).  Rich  mead 
will  keep  seven  years,  and  afford  a  brisk,  nourishing,  and  pleasant 
drin-k.  Some  people  like  to  add  the  thinly  shaved  rind  of  a  lemon  to 
each  gallon  while  boiling,  and  put  the  fruit,  free  from  pith,  into  the 
tub.  Others  flavour  it  with  spices  and  Si^eet  herbs,  and  mix  it  with 
new  beer  or  sweet  wort :  it  is  then  called  Welsh  Braggart. 

718.  Parsnip  Wine. — To  make  a  kilderkin:  Set  on  double  the 
quantity  of  water,  and  for  every  gallon  of  water  allow  four  pounds  of 
parsnips  cleaned  and  sliced.  When  the  water  boils,  put  in  the  par- 
snips, and  boil  till  they  are  perfectly  tender  ;  drain  through  a  sieve  or 
colander  without  pressing;  immediately  return  it  to  the  copper  with 
fifty-six  pounds  of  loaf-sugar ;  it  will  soon  boil,  being  already  hot,  and 
what  drips  from  the  sieve  may  be  added  afterwards ;  six  ounces  of 
hops,  and  boil  it  two  hours.  Ferment  with  yeast ;  let  it  stand  four 
days  to  work  in  a  warm  place ;  then  tun  and  paste  paper  over.  It  is 
most  likely  it  will  work  up  and  burst  the  paper,  which  must  be  re- 
newed. It  may  be  cleared  with  isinglass,  but  will  not  require  any 
brandy. 

719.  Malt  Wi7ie,  or  English  Sherry. — For  an  eighteen-gallon 
cask  allow  fifty-six  pounds  of  good  moist  sugar,  and  sixteen  gallons 
of  water;  boil  them  together  two  hours,  carefully  skimming.  When 
the  scum  is  all  removed,  and  the  liquor  looks  clear,  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  hops,  which  should  boil  a  quarter  of  an  hour  or  twenty 
minutes.  When  the  liquor  is  quite  cool  add  to  it  five  gallons  of 
strong  beer  in  the  height  of  working:  cover  up,  and  let  it  work  forty- 
eight  hours;  then  skim  and  tun.  If  none  remains  for  filling  up,  use 
new  beer  for  that  purpose.  This  method  may  be  adopted  with  all 
boiled  wines,  and  will  be  found  to  improve  their  strength,  and  promote 
their  keeping.  In  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  when  the  head  begins 
to  sink,  add  raisins  (free  from  stalks)  ten  pounds,  sugar-candy  and 
bitter  almonds  of  each  half  a  pound,  and  a  pint  of  the  best  brandy : 
brown  paper  as  in  former  articles.     It  may  be  bottled  in  one  year 


180  THE      C  O  M  P  I.  E  T  E      COOK. 

lut  if  left  three  years  in  the  wood,  and  then  bottled,  it  will  be  found 
equal  in  strength  and  flavour  to  foreign  wine. 

720.  Orange  or  Lemon  Wine,  boiled. — (For  quantity  of  fruit,  see 
No.  726.)  To  make  eighteen  gallons,  twenty  gallons  of  water,  fifty- 
six  pounds  of  loaf-sugar,  the  whites  and  shells  of  a  dozen  eggs,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  hops ;  boil  together  the  sugar,  water,  and  eggs ; 
when  it  has  boiled  an  hour,  and  become  quite  clear,  add  the  hops  and 
the  thinly  shaved  rinds  of  two  or  three  dozen  of  the  fruit — more  or 
less,  according  as  the  bitter  flavour  is  desired.  Let  it  boil,  in  all,  two 
hours:  meanwhile,  remove  all  the  peel  and  white  pith  of  the  fruit, 
and  squeeze  the  juice.  Pour  a  gallon  or  two  of  the  hot  liquor  on  the 
pulp;  stir  it  well  about,  and,  when  cool,  strain  to  the  rest,  and  add 
the  juice.  (N.  B.  Some  people  strain  off  the  hops,  rind,  and  eggs; 
others  prefer  their  remaining:  it  is  by  no  means  important  which 
mode  is  adopted.)  Work  it  with  yeast,  as  the  foregoing  article,  and 
refine  with  isinglass  dissolved  in  a  quart  of  brandy.  This  wine  should 
be  one  year  in  wood,  and  one  in  bottles,  when  it  will  be  found  ex- 
cellent. 

721.  Grape  Wine. — The  larger  the  proportion  of  juice,  and  the 
less  of  water,  the  nearer  it  will  approach  to  the  strength  and  richness 
of  foreign  wine.  There  ought  not  to  be  less  than  one-third  of  pure 
juice.  Squeeze  the  grapes  in  a  hair  sieve,  bruising  them  with  the 
hand  rather  than  any  heavier  press,  as  it  is  better  not  to  crush  the 
stones.  Soak  the  pulp  in  water  until  a  sufficient  quantity  is  obtained 
to  fill  up  the  cask.  As  loaf-sugar  is  to  be  used  for  this  wine,  and  it  is 
not  easily  dissolved  in  cold  liquid,  the  best  plan  is  to  pour  over  the 
BUgar  (three  pounds  in  every  gallon  required)  as  much  boiling  water 
as  will  dissolve  it,  and  stir  till  it  is  dissolved.  When  cold  put  it  in 
the  cask  with  the  juice,  fill  up  from  water  in  which  the  pulp  has  been 
steeped.  To  each  gallon  of  wine  put  half  an  ounce  of  bitter  almonds, 
not  blanched,  but  cut  small.  The  fermentation  will  not  be  very  great. 
When  it  subsides,  proceed  with  the  brandy  and  papering  as  726. 

722.  Raisin  Wine. — There  are  various  modes  of  preparing  this 
wine,  which  is,  perhaps,  when  well  made,  the  best  of  our  domestic 
wines.  The  following  receipts  are  considered  good : — For  raisin 
wine,  without  sugar,  put  to  every  gallon  of  soft  water  eight  pounds 
of  fresh  Smyrna  or  Malaga  raisins :  let  them  steep  a  month,  stirring 
every  day;  then  drain  the  liquor  and  put  it  into  the  cask,  filling  up  as 
it  works  over :  this  it  will  do  for  two  months.  When  the  hissing  has 
in  a  great  measure  subsided,  add  brandy  and  honey,  and  paper  as  the 
former  articles.  This  wine  should  remain  three  years  untouched  ;  it 
may  then  be  drunk  from  the  cask,  or  bottled,  and  will  be  found  excel- 
lent. Raisin  wine  is  sometimes  made  in  large  quantities,  by  merely 
putting  the  raisins  in  the  cask,  and  filling  it  up  with  water:  the  pro- 
portion as  above:  carefully  pick  out  all  stalks.  In  six  months  rack 
the  wine  into  fresh  casks,  and  put  to  each  the  proportion  of  brandy 
and  honey.  In  cider  countries,  and  plentiful  apple  years,  a  most  ex- 
cellent raisin  wine  is  made  by  employing  cidqr  instead  of  water,  and 


MADE      WINES,      &C.  181 

Steeping  in  it  the  raisins.     Proceed  in  every  respect  as  in  the  last 
ar.licla. 

723.  Raisin  Wine  with  Sugar. — To  every  gallon  of  soft  water 
four  pounds  of  fresh  raisins;  put  them  in  a  large  tub;  stir  frequently, 
and  keep  it  covered  with  a  sack  or  blanket.  In  about  a  fortnight  the 
fermentation  will  begin  to  subside :  this  may  be  known  by  the  raisins 
remaining  still.  Then  press  the  fruit  and  strain  the  liquor.  Have 
ready  a  wine  cask,  perfectly  dry  and  warm,  allowing  for  each  gallon 
one  pound  or  one  pound  and  a  half  Lisbon  sugar;  put  this  into  the 
cask  with  the  strained  liquor:  when  half  full,  stir  well  the  sugar  and 
liquor,  and  put  in  half  a  pint  of  thick  yeast;  then  fill  up  with  the 
liquor,  and  continue  to  do  so  while  the  fermentation  lasts,  which  will 
be  a  month  or  more.  Proceed  with  brandy,  &c.,  as  in  the  foregoing 
articles. 

724.  Raisin  Wine,  in  imitation  of  Frontignac. — For  every  gallon 
of  wine  required,  allow  two  pounds  of  raisins;  boil  them  one  hour  in 
water ;  strain  the  boiling  liquor  on  loaf-sugar,  two  pounds  for  every 
gallon;  stir  it  well  together:  when  cool  put  it  in  the  cask  with  a 
moderate  quantity  of  yeast  (as  last  article).  When  the  fermentation 
subsides,  suspend  in  the  cask  a  muslin  bag  containing'  elder  flowers, 
in  the  proportion  of  a  quart  to  three  gallons  of  wine.  When  per- 
fectly clear,  draw  off  the  wine  into  bottles. 

725.  Currant  or  Gooseberry  Wine  without  boiling. — Suppose  the 
cask  to  be  filled  is  a  kilderkin,  to  make  it  rich  you  should  have  fifty 
quarts  of  fruit,  bruise  it,  and  add  to  it  half  that  quantity  of  water.  Stir 
it  well  together,  and  let  it  stand  twelve  hours ;  then  strain  it  through  a 
coarse  canvass  bag  or  hair  sieve  to  fifty-six  pounds  of  good  Lisbon  su- 
gar, and  stir  it  well.  Put  the  pulp  of  the  fruit  into  a  gallon  more  wa- 
ter ;  stir  it  about,  and  let  it  stand  twelve  hours.  Then  strain  to  the 
above,  again  stirring  it;  cover  the  tub  with  a  sack.  In  a  day  or  two 
the  wine  will  begin  to  ferment.  When  the  whole  surface  is  covered 
with  a  thick  yeasty  froth,  begin  to  skim  it  on  to  a  sieve.  What  runs 
through  may  be  returned  to  the  wine.  Do  this  from  time  to  time  for 
several  days,  till  no  more  yeast  forms.     Then  put  it  into  the  cask. 

72G.  Orange  or  Lemon  Wine  without  boiling. — For  an  eighteen- 
gallon  cask,  half  a  chest  of  Seville  oranges;  they  are  most  juicy  in 
March.  Shave  the  rinds  of  a  dozen  or  two  (more  or  less  according  as 
the  bitter  flavour  is  desired,  or  otherwise.)  Pour  over  this  a  quart  or 
two  of  boiling  water :  cover  up,  and  let  it  stand  twelve  hours,  then 
strain  to  the  rest.  Put  into  the  cask  fifty-six  pounds  of  good  Lisbon 
sugar.  Clear  off'  all  the  peel  and  white  pith  from  the  oranges,  and 
squeeze  through  a  hair  sieve.  Put  the  juice  into  the  cask  to  the 
sugar.  Wash  the  sieve  and  pulp  with  cold  water,  and  let  the  pulp 
soak  in  the  water  twenty-four  hours.  Strain,  and  add  to  the  last,  con- 
tinually stirring  it ;  add  more  water  to  the  pulp,  let  it  soak,  then  strain 
and  add.  Continue  to  do  so  till  the  cask  is  full,  often  stirring  it  with 
a  stick  until  all  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Then  leave  it  to  ferment. 
The  fermentation  will  not  be  nearly  so  great  as  that  of  currant  wine, 
but  the  hissing  noise  will  be  heard  for  some  weeks;  when  this  sub- 
15* 


182  THE    COMPLETE    COOK. 

sides,  add  honey  and  brandy,  and  paste  over  with  brown  paper.     This 
wine  should  remain  in  the  cask  a  year  before  bottlin<T. 

727.  Cowslip  or  Clary  Wine. — The  best  method  of  making  these 
wines  is  to  put  in  the  pips  dry,  when  the  fermentation  of  the  wine 
has  subsided.  This  method  is  preferred  for  two  reasons ;  first, 
it  may  be  performed  at  any  time  of  the  year  when  lemons  are  cheap- 
est, and  when  other  wine  is  making;  secondly,  all  waste  of  the  pips 
is  avoided  ;  being  light  they  are  sure  to  work  over  if  put  in  the  cask 
while  the  wine  is  in  a  state  of  fermentation.  For  a  kilderkin  boil  fifty- 
six  pounds  of  good  moist  sugar,  with  twenty  gallons  of  water,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  hops ;  shave  thin  the  rinds  of  three  dozen  le- 
mons or  Seville  oranges,  or  part  of  each;  they  may  be  put  in  the  boil 
the  last  quarter  of  an  hour,  or  the  boiling  liquor  poured  over  them ; 
squeeze  the  juice  to  be  added  when  cool,  and  rinse  the  pulp  in  the 
hot  liquor.  Work  with  yeast  as  in  the  foregoing  articles.  In  two 
days  tun  the  liquor,  and  keep  it  filled  up  either  with  wine  or  new 
beer,  as  long  as  it  works  over;  then  paste  brown  paper,  and  leave  it 
for  four,  six,  or  eight  months.  The  quantity  of  flowers  is  one  quart  to 
each  gallon  of  wine.  Let  them  be  gathered  on  a  fine  dry  day,  and 
carefully  picked  from  every  bit  of  stalk  and  green.  Spread  them 
thinly  on  trays,  sheets,  or  papers,  and  turn  them  often.  When  tho- 
roughly dry,  put  them  in  paper  bags  until  the  wine  is  ready  to  receive 
them.  Put  them  in  at  the  bung-hole ;  stir  them  down  two  or  three 
times  a  day,  till  all  the  cowslips  have  sunk;  at  the  same  time  add 
isinglass.  Then  paste  over  again  with  paper.  In  six  months  the 
wine  will  be  fit  to  bottle,  but  will  be  improved  by  keeping  longer  in 
the  cask;  the  pips  shrink  into  a  very  small  compass  in  drying;  the 
quantity  allowed  is  of  fresh-gathered  flowers.  Observe  also,  that 
wine  well  boiled,  and  refined  with  hops  and  isinglass,  is  just  as  good 
used  from  the  cask,  as  if  bottled,  which  is  a  great  saving  of  time  and 
hazard.  Wine  made  on  the  above  principles  has  been  often  praised 
by  connoisseurs,  and  supposed  to  have  been  bottled  at  least  a  year, 
which,  in  fact,  had  not  been  bottled  half  a  day. 

728.  Birch  Wine. — The  liquor  of  the  birch  tree  is  to  bo  obtained 
in  the  month  of  March,  when  the  sap  begins  to  ascend.  One  foot 
from  the  ground  bore  a  hole  in  each  tree,  large  enough  to  admit  a 
faucet,  and  set  a  vessel  under;  the  liquor  will  run  for  two  or  three 
days  without  injuring  the  tree.  Having  obtained  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity, stop  the  holes  with  pegs.  To  each  gallon  of  liquor  add  a  (juart 
of  honey,  or  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  sugar;  boil  together  an  hour, 
stirring  it  well ;  a  few  cloves  may  be  added  fur  flavour,  or  the  rind  of 
a  lemon  or  two;  and,  by  all  means,  two  ounces  of  hops  to  nine  gal- 
lons of  wine.  Work  it  with  yeast;  tun,  and  proceed  as  in  former  re- 
cipes: refine  with  isinglass.  Two  months  after  making,  it  may  be 
drawn  off  and  bottled  ;  and  in  two  months  more  will  be  fit  for  use,  but 
will  improve  by  keeping. 

729.  Elder  Wine. — The  quantity  of  fruit  required  is  one  gallon  of 
ripe  elder-berries,  and  one  quart  of  damsons  or  sloes,  for  every  two 
gallons  of  wine  to  be  produced;  boil  them  in  water  till  the  damsons 


MADE     WINES,      &C.  183 

burst,  frequently  breaking  tliem  with  a  flat  stick  ;  then  strain  and  re- 
turn the  liquor  to  the  copper.  The  quantity  of  liquor  required  for 
eighteen  gallons  of  wine,  will  be  twenty  gallons:  whatever,  there- 
fore, the  first  liquor  proves  short  of  this,  add  water  to  the  pulp;  rub  it 
about  and  strain  to  tliQ  rest:  boil  two  hours  with  fifty-six  pounds  of 
coarse  moist  sugar;  a  pound  and  a  half  of  ginger  bruised,  a  pound  of 
allspice,  and  two  ounces  of  cinnamon,  loosely  tied  in  a  muslin  bag, 
and  four  or  six  ounces  of  hops.  When  quite  cool  work  on  the  fore- 
going plan,  tun  in  two  days,  drop  in  the  spice  and  suspend  the  bag  by 
a  string  not  long  enough  to  let  it  touch  the  bottom  of  the  cask  :  fill  it  up 
for  a  fortnight,  then  paste  over  stiff  brown  paper:  it  will  be  fit  to 
tap  in  two  months;  will  keep  for  years,  but  does  not  improve  by  age 
like  many  other  wines  ;  it  is  never  better  than  in  the  first  year  of  its 
age. 

730.  Damson  or  Black  Cherry  Wine — may  be  made  in  the  same 
manner,  excepting  the  addition  of  spice,  and  that  the  sugar  should  be 
finer.  If  kept  in  an  open  vessel  four  days,  these  wines  will  ferment 
of  themselves ;  but  it  is  better  to  forward  the  process  by  the  use  of  a 
little  yeast,  as  i#fbrmer  recipes:  they  will  be  fit  for  use  in  about  eight 
months.  As  there  is  a  flatness  belonging  to  both  these  wines  if  bot- 
tled, a  tea-spoonful  of  rice,  a  lump  or  two  of  sugar,  or  four  or  five  rai- 
sins, will  tend  to  enliven  it. 

731.  Cherry  Brandy. — For  this  purpose  use  either  morello  cherries 
or  small  black  cherries;  pick  them  from  the  stalks;  fill  the  bottles 
nearly  up  to  the  necks,  then  fill  up  with  brandy  (some  people  use 
whiskey,  gin,  or  spirit  distilled  from  the  lees  of  wine.)  In  three 
weeks  or  a  month  strain  ofl:'  the  spirit;  to  each  quart  add  one  pound 
of  loaf-sugar  clarified,  and  flavour  with  tincture  of  cinnamon  or 
cloves. 

732.  Raspberry  Brandy. — Scald  the  fruit  in  a  stone  jar  set  in  a 
kettle  of  water,  or  on  a  hot  hearth.  When  the  juice  will  run  freely, 
strain  it  without  pressing:  to  every  quart  of  juice  allow  one  pound  of 
loaf-sugar;  boil  it  up  and  skim  ;  when  quite  clear  pour  out;  and  when 
cold,  add  an  equal  quantity  of  brandy.  Shake  them  well  together  and 
bottle. 

733.  Sherbet. — In  a  quart  of  water  boil  six  or  eight  sticks  of  rhu- 
barb ten  minutes:  strain  the  boiling  liquor  on  the  thin  shaved  rind 
of  a  lemon.  Two  ounces  of  clarified  sugar,  with  a  wine-glassful 
of  brandy,  stir  to  the  above,  and  let  it  stand  five  or  six  hours  before 
using, 

734.  Raspberry  Vinegar  may  be  made  either  by  boiling  down  the 
juice  with  an  equal  weight  of  sugar,  the  same  as  for  jelly,  and  then 
mixing  it  with  an  equal  quantity  of  distilled  vinegar,  to  be  bottled 
with  a  glass  of  brandy  in  each  bottle ;  or  in  a  china  bowl  or  stone  jar 
(free  from  metallic  glaze)  steep  a  quart  of  fresh-gathered  raspber-^ 
ries  in  two  quarts  of  the  best  white  wine  vinegar.  Next  day  strain 
the  liquor  on  an  equal  quantity  of  fresh  fruit,  and  the  next  day  do  the 
same.  After  the  third  steeping  of  fruit,  dip  a  jelly  bag  in  plain  vine- 
gar to  prevent  waste,  and  strain  the  flavoured  vinegar  thr',ngh  it  into 


184  THE     COMPLETE    COOK. 

a  stone  jar.  Allow  to  each  pint  of  vinegar  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar  pow- 
dered. Stir  in  the  sugar  with  a  silver  spoon,  and,  when  dissolved, 
cover  up  the  jar  and  set  it  in  a  kettle  of  water.  Keep  it  at  boiling 
heat  one  hour;  remove  the  scum.  When  cold,  add  to  each  pint  a 
glass  of  brandy,  and  bottle  it.  This  is  a  pleasant  and  useful  drink  in 
hot  weather,  or  in  sickness :  one  pint  of  the  vinegar  to  eight  of  cold 
water. 

735.  Lemonade. — For  a  quart  of  water  six  lemons,  and  two  ounces 
of  loaf-sugar.  Shave  half  the  lemons,  or  rub  the  sugar  over  them. 
Squeeze  the  juice  of  the  lemons  to  the  sugar,  and  pour  the  water 
boiling  hot.  Well  mix  the  whole,  and  run  it  through  a  jelly-bag  pre- 
viously wrung  out  of  scalding  water.  Lemonade  may  be  obtained, 
when  the  fruit  is  not  in  season,  by  using  the  syrup  of  lemons;  (sim- 
mer each  pint  of  juice  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar; 
strain  and  bottle:)  or  the  citric  acid — two  drachms  of  citric  acid, 
twenty  drops  of  essence  of  lemon,  a  pint  of  clarified  syrup  or  capil- 
laire.     This  may  be  reduced  at  pleasure  with  boiling  water. 

736.  Pop,  or  Ginger  Beer. — The  principal  difference  between 
ginger  pop  and  ginger  beer,  is,  that  the  former  is  bottrcd  immediately, 
the  other  is  first  put  in  a  barrel  for  a  few  days.  It  is  also  usual  to 
boil  the  ingredients  for  ginger  beer,  which  is  not  done  for  pop.  Both 
are  to  be  bottled  in  stone  bottles,  and  the  corks  tied  or  wired  down. 
If  properly  done,  the  corks  and  strings  will  serve  many  times  in 
succession ;  the  moment  the  string  is  untied  the  cork  will  fly  out 
uninjured.  The  bottles  as  soon  as  empty  should  be  soaked  a  few 
hours  in  cold  water,  shaken  about  and  turned  down,  and  scalded 
immediately  before  using.  The  corks  also  must  be  scalded.  On 
one  pound  of  coarse  loaf  or  fine  moist  sugar,  two  ounces  of  cream 
of  tartar,  and  one  ounce  of  bruised  ginger,  pour  a  gallon  of  boiling 
water:  stir  it  well  and  cover  up  to  cool,  as  the  flavour  of  the 
ginger  is  apt  to  evaporate.  It  is  a  good  way  to  do  thus  for  the 
last  thj;ig  at  night;  then  it  is  just  fit  to  set  working  the  first  thing 
in  the  morning.  Two  large  table-spoonfuls  of  yeast,  stir  to  it  a 
t^a-cup  full  of  the  liquor;  let  it  stand  a  few  minutes  in  a  warmish 
ijlao'O,  then  pour  it  to  the  rest;  stir  it  well,  and  cover  up  for  eight 
lioifrs.  Be  particular  as  to  time.  If  done  earlier,  the  bottles  are 
apt  to  fly — if  later,  the  beer  soon  becomes  vapid.  Skim,  strain,  bot- 
tle, cork,  and  tie  down.  The  cork  should  not  touch  tlie  beer.  It 
will  be  fit  for  use  next  day.  Lemon  rind  and  juice  may  be  added,  but 
are  not  necessary. 

'^  737.  Ginger  Beer. — The  proportions  of  this  may  vary.  Loaf-su- 
gar is  preferable  to  moist;  some  say  a  pound  to  a  gallon,  others  a 
pound  and  a  half;  some  allow  but  half  an  ounce  of  ginger  (sliced  or 
bruised)  to  a  gallon,  others  an  ounce;  a  lemon  to  a  gallon  is  the  usual 
proportion,  to  which  some  add  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  or  half  an  ounce 
of  cream  of  tartar;  the  white  of  an  egg  to  each  gallon  is  useful  for  clari- 
fying, but  not  absolutely  necessary.  Some  people  put  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  brandy  to  four  gallons  of  beer  by  way  of  keeping  it :  half  an  ounce 
of  hops  boiled  in  it  would  answer  the  same  purpose.     Boil  the  sugar, 


MADE     WINES,    &C.  185 

water,  and  whites  of  eggs  well  beaten;  skim  carefully.  Then  add 
the  ginger,  and  shaved  rind  of  lemons;  let  it  boil  half  an  hour;  clear 
the  lemons  of  the  white  pith  and  put  them  in  the  wine.  When  cool, 
stir  in  the  yeast  (two  table-spoonfuls  to  a  gallon,)  put  it  in  the  bar- 
rel without  straining,  and  bung  close.  In  a  fortnight  draw  off  anJ 
bottle.  It  will  be  ready  for  use  in  another  fortnight,  and  will  keep 
longer  than  ginger  pop.  If  cream  of  tartar  is  used,  pour  ths  boiling 
liquor  over  it,  but  do  not  boil  it. 


INDEX 


Tliejigures  at  the  beginning  of  the  lines  refer  to  the  numbers  of  the  para' 
graphs  ;  those  at  the  end,  to  the  pages. 


Advice  to  Cooks  (Dr.  Kitchi- 
ner's)  15. 

American  mode  of  cooking  In- 
dian corn,  pumpkins,&c.,159. 
625  . .  Indian  cake,  or  bannock, 
159. 

334  Ancliovy,  essence  of,  99. 

335  . .  powder  of,  99. 
153   . .   sauce,  55. 

677  Apricots,  to   preserve  in  jelly, 

169. 

678  . .   a  very   nice   preserve   for, 

170. 

679  ..  dried,  170. 

680  . .  or  peaches  in  brandy,  170. 

681  . .  jam,  170. 
657  Arrow-root,  166. 
4^26  Artichokes,  117. 

424  ..   Jerusalem,  117. 
Artificial  preparation  of  meat, 

fish,  &c.,  for  dressing,  salt- 
ing, drying,  &,c.,  106. 

425  Asparagus,  117. 

84  Bacon,  to  boil,  65. 

621  Baking,  bread,  158. 

622  .  .  Sally  Lunn  tea  cake,  458. 

623  . .   plum  cake,  159. 

624  . .   a  plain  pound  cake,  159. 
Baking  meat,  &c.,  87. 

5J83  . .  general  remarks  on,  87. 

284  Baking  a  pig,  87 

285  ..   a  goose,  87. 

286  . .  buttcck  of  beef,  87. 

287  ..  fish,  87. 

288  . .  time  for,  88. 

289  . .  objection  to,  88. 

290  . .   Kitchiner  (Dr.)  on,  88. 
663  Barley  Water,  167. 

448  Basil  vinegar,  or  wine,  124. 

421  Beans,  Windsor,  117 

422  . .   French,  117. 

423  .  .  harricot,  117. 


397  Beef  alamode,  113. 

167  ..  boiled,  61. 

168  . .  boiled  salt,  62. 
342   • •  hashed,  101. 

349  . .   harricot  of,  102. 

350  . .   salt,  baked,  102. 

351  . .   baked  like  red  deer,  to  bo 

eaten  cold,  102. 

233  . .   sirloin  of,  roasted,  76. 

234  . .  rump   and  round,   roasted, 

76. 
236   . .  ribs  of,  roasted,  76. 
665  . .  tea,  167. 
736  Beer,  ginger,  184. 

427  Beer-root,  red,  118. 

428  . .  white,  118. 

259  Blackcock,  roasted,  83. 
319  Blanchuig,  94. 

646  Blancmange,  163. 

647  ..   a  richer,  163. 

648  . .    arrow-root,  1  b3. 

628  Boiled  maize  pudding,  160. 
Boiling,  20. 
. .  general  directions  for,  58. 

146  . .  vessels  for,  58. 

147  . .  water  for,  53. 

148  . .   fire  for,  58. 

149  . .   directions  for  putting  in  the 

pot,  59. 

150  . .  to  scum,  59. 

151  . .   how  long  to  do,  59. 

152  . .  meats  just  killed,  59. 

153  . .   frozen  meat,  59. 

154  . .   salt  meat,  59. 

155  . .  bacon,  59. 

156  . .  liam,   beef,   tongues,   pork, 

59. 

157  . .  by  steam,  60. 

158  . .  without  coming  in  contact 

with  Avater,  60. 

159  . .   warming  up,  60. 

160  . .  soaking  before,  60. 

1 161   .  .  meat  just  killed,  60. 

(187) 


188 


IN  DEX 


162  Boiling  :  what  meats  may  re- 
main  in  the  hot  liquor,  60. 

1G3  ..  potatoes  not  to  be  boiled  with 
meat,  61. 

164  . .   what  vegetables  may  be,  61. 

165  ..  vegetables,  61. 

166  . .  old  potc!.toes,  61. 

. .  butcher's  meat,  poultry,  and 
general  remarks  on,  61. 

321  Boning,  94. 
281  Brain  balls,  87. 

316  Braising,   glazing,    blanching, 

larding,  and  boning,  general 
remarks  on,  93. 

317  Braising,  93. 

732  Brandy,  cherry,  183. 
731    . .   raspberry,  183. 
638  Brewis,  American,  162. 
191  Brill,  to  boil,  267. 

411  Brocoli,115. 

356  Broiled  rump  steaks  with  onion 

gravy,  104. 
Broiling,  92. 

308  . .   gridiron  for,  92. 

309  . .   thickness  of  chops  for,  92. 

310  . .   fire  for,  92. 

311  . .   when  done,  92. 

. .   general  remarks  on,  75,  92. 

312  . .  steaks,  92. 

312  ..  chops,  92. 

313  ..   kidneys,  93. 

314  ..  fowl,  93. 

314  ..  rabbit,  93. 

315  . .  pigeons,  93. 

Broth  or   stock,  and    gravies, 
49. 
99  Broth,  beef  or  stock,  50. 
69   ..  fish,  39. 

76  . .   chicken,  41. 

77  ..  mutton,  41. 

78  .  .   mutton  chop,  42. 

322  Browning,  95. 

357  Bubble  and  squeak,  104. 
108  Butter,  melted,  53. 

464  ..   clarified,  127. 

465  . .  burnt,  128. 

466  . .  oiled,  128. 

Cabbage,  115. 

412  ..  cold,  115. 
414  ..   red,  115. 

178  Cairs  head,  boiled,  63. 


340  Calf's  head,  to  hash,  100. 
249  Capons,  to  roast,  80. 
186   . .   to  boil,  65. 

213  Carp,  fried,  71. 

214  . .   stewed,  71. 
420  Carrots,  117. 

Carving,  directions  for,  171. 
686   . .   fisli,  171. 

686  . .  turbot.  Sec,  172. 

687  . .   cod's  head  and   shoulders, 

172. 

688  . .  salmon,  172. 

689  . .  soles,  172. 

690  Carving  mackerel,  172. 

691  ..  eels,  whiting, jrick,&c.,  172. 

692  . .   aitch-bone  of  beef,  172. 

693  . .   round,   and   flank  of  beef, 

172, 

694  ..   brisket  of  beef,  172. 

695  . .   sirloin  of  beef,  173. 

696  ..   fillet  of  veal,  173. 

697  ..   breast  of  veal,  173. 

698  . .  necks  and  loins,  173. 

699  . .  calf's  head,  173. 

700  ..   leg  of  mutton,  173. 

701  ..    saddle  of  nmtton,  173. 

702  ..   shoulder  of  mutton,  174. 

703  . .   haunch  of  venison,  174. 

704  ..   fore-quarter  of  lamb,  174. 

705  . .   ham,  174. 

706  . .  tongue,  174. 

707  . .  sucking  pig,  174. 

708  . .  fowl,  175. 

709  ..  a  pheasant,  175. 

710  . .  partridges  and  pigeons,  175 

711  . .  goose  or  duck,  175. 

712  ..   turkey,  176. 

713  . .   hare,  176. 

714  . .  rabbits,  176. 
Catsups,  125. 

458  . .   walnut,  126. 
4.59   ..   oyster,  126. 

460  . .   cockle  and  mur;cle,  126. 

461  . .   mushroom,  126. 

462  . .   mushroom,   without    spioe, 

127. 

463  .  .   mushroom  powder,  127. 
410  Cauliflowers,  115. 

431  Celery,  118. 

640  Cheese,  to  preserve,  162. 

684   . .   damson,  171. 

611  Cheesecakes,  157. 


INDEX. 


189 


610 

612 
613 
614 
672 
683 
186 


29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 

195 
676 

413 

347 
232 


Cheesecakes,  to  make  curd  for, 
156.     . 

.  .   potatoe,  157. 

.  .   a  plain,  157. 

.  .   bread,  157. 

.  .  Cherries,  169. 

.  .   in  brandy,  171. 

Chickens  to  boil,  65. 

Choice    and   purchasing   ot* 
butcher's  meat,  26. 

. .  general  remarks  on,  26 — 
27. 

..   beef,  27. 

. .  mutton,  27. 

. .   venison,  27. 

..  veal,  28. 

..   lamb,  28. 

. .   pork,  28. 

. .   bacon.  28. 

.  .   hams,  29. 

. .   summary  of  directions,  29. 

Choice  of  poultry,  eggs,  and 
fish,  and  seasons  offish,  29 

. .   poultry  of  all  kinds,  29. 

..  rabbits,  29. 

..  fowls,  29. 

.  .  rabbits  and  pigeons,  30. 

. .  game,  30. 

. .   eggs,  30. 

. .   fish,  30. 
.   seasons  of  fish,  30. 

Clarifying,  127. 

Cod  to  broil,  68. 

Codlins,  to  keep  for  several 
montlis,  169. 

Coleworts,  young,  115. 

Collops,  minced,  101. 

Colouring,  95. 

Colourings,  thickenings,  fla- 
vourings, seasonings,  stocks, 
gravies,  sauces,  stuffings, 
force  meats,  and  clarifying, 
remarks  on,  94. 

Cookery,  general  remark-s  on, 
16. 

. .  importance  of  good,  as  re- 
gards health,  &c.,  16. 

. .  Johnson  (Dr.),  his  observa- 
tions on,  17. 

..  Sylvester  (Mr.)  on,  17. 

. .   Waterhouse  (Dr.)  on,  17. 
.   Milton's  writings  on,  17. 
16 


Cookery,  Parr  (Dr.)  on,  18. 

. .   Prout  (Dr)  on,  19. 

. .   Philosophical,  —  Count 

Romford,  20. 
Cooking,  preparations  for,  29. 
180  Cow-heel,  64. 

649  Cream,  Italian,  163. 

650  . .   clouted  or  clotted,  164. 

651  . .   for  fruit  pies,  164. 

652  . .  Birch's   receipt    for  mock, 

164. 

489  Crusts,  flaky,  short.  135. 

490  . .  raised,  135. 

493  for  savoury  pies,  136. 

494  . .   a  rich  short,  136. 
Cucumbers,  124. 

435   . .  stewed,  119. 

Curing,  &c.,with  pyroligneoua 
acid,  110. 

385  .  .   general  remarks  on,  110. 

386  hams  for,  110. 

. .   salmon  for,  110. 

387  . .  time  it  will  keep,  110. 

388  . .  hams  and  beef  require  no 

previous  soaking,  110. 

389  ..  herrings,  cod,  haddock,  111. 
375   . .   bacon,  108. 

675  Currants,  169. 

581  Custard,  152. 

582  . .   almond,  152. 

583  ..  rice,  152. 

673  Damsons   or    gooseberries,   to 

bottle,  169. 
364  Devil,  106. 

382  Dried  or  kippered  salmon,  110. 

383  . .   herrings,  110. 

384  . .   haddock,   cod,  ling,  «fec., 

110. 
467  Dripping,  to  clarify,  128. 
Drying,  smoking,  &.C.,  109. 
.  .   general  remarks  on,  109 
252  Duck,  to  roast,  81. 

.  .   canvas    back   or    red-neck 
81. 
576  Dumplings,  yeast,  151 . 
590  . .   hard,  153. 
192  Dutch  plaice,  to  Boil,  67. 

Duties,  relative,  of  mistress  and 
maid,  13. 

194  Eels,  stewed,  68. 


190 


NDEX 


210  Eels,  fried,  70, 

211  ..   boiled,  71. 
280  Egg  balls,  86. 

. .  plums,  to  preserve,  170. 
185  . .  Eggs,  to  poach,  75. 

253  Fawns  to  roast,  82. 
216  Fish,  salt,  to  boil,  71. 

56  . .   cleaning,  35. 

57  . .  eels,  36. 

58  ..    witliout  scales,  37, 

59  . .  turbot,  plaice,  flounders,  37. 

60  . .  cod,  37. 

61  . .  oysters,  37. 

639  Fish,  salt,  American  mode   of 

dressing,  162. 
372  Flavoured  salt  meat,  to  make, 

107. 
325  Flavourings,  97. 

. .  essences,  powders,  &c.,  98. 

642  Flummery,  common,  162. 

643  . .   rice,  162. 

644  ..   French,  162. 

645  ..   Dutch,  163. 

278  Force  meat,  for  vea'  or  fowls, 

86. 

279  . .  light,  86. 
320  Forcing,  94. 

278  Fowls,  to  roast,  86. 
363  Fried  slices  of  ham  or  bacon, 
105. 

618  Fritters,  158. 

619  . .  oyster,  158. 

620  . .  potatoc,  158. 
Frying,  89. 

294  . .   Kitchiner  (Dr.)  on,  89. 

295  . .  what  to  use  for,  89. 

296  . .  dripping  for,  89. 

297  . .  the  great  secret  in,  90. 

298  . .  to  know  when  done,  90. 

299  . .   bread  crumbs  for,  90. 
Frying,  general  remarks    on, 

75,  89. 

300  . .  steaks,  90. 

301  ..  beef  steaks  and  onions,  90. 

302  . .  sausages,  90. 

303  .  .  veal  cutlets,  90. 

304  . .   swee*  breads,  91. 

305  ..   lamb  chops,  91. 

305  • .   mutton  chops,  91. 

306  . .  pork  chops,  91. 

307  .  eggs,  91. 


61   . .  oysters,  36. 
216   .  .   salt  fish,  to  boil,  71. 
Fuel,  waste  of,  21. 

Garnishes,  176. 
682  Ginger,  to  preserve,  170. 

102  Glaze,  51. 
318  Glazing,  94. 

250  Goose,  to  roast,  81. 

244  . .   mock,  78. 

674  Gooseberries,  169. 

655  Gooseberry,  or  apple  fool,  165. 

103  Gravy  beef,  51. 

104  . .  for  roast  meat,  51. 

105  .  .   for  boiled  meat,  52. 

106  .  .   for  roast  veal,  52. 

107  . .   rich  brown  for  poultry,  ra 

gout,  or  game,  52. 
97  Green  turtle  soup,  48. 

Greengages,  to  preserve,  170. 

659  Groats,   Robinson's    prepared, 

166. 
259  Grouse,  to  roast,  83. 

Gruels,  creams,  syllabubs,  jel. 

lies,  &c.,  &,c.,  62. 
658  Gruel,  166. 

660  . .  rice,  166. 

661  . .  barley,  166. 
206  Gudgeons,  70. 

259  Guinea  fowl,  to  roast,  83. 
197  Haddock,  to  boil,  69. 
344  Haggis,  a  good  Scotch,  101 
191  Halibut,  to  boil,  67. 

376  Hams,  curing,  108. 

377  . .   Yorkshire,  109. 

379  . .  mutton,  109. 
184  . .  to  boil,  65. 
235  Hare,  mock,  76. 
256  . .  to  roast,  82. 

353  . .  stewed,  102. 

354  . .  jugged,  103. 

341  Hashed  meat,  remarks  on,  100 
326  Herbs,   sweet,   to   prepare   foi 

keeping,  98. 
337   . .   spirit  of,  mixed,  100. 
333  . .  essence,  or  tinctures  of,  99. 
429   ..  to  fry,  118. 
68  Hotch-potch,  39. 

380  Hung  or  Dutch  beef,  109. 

625  Indian  cake,  or  bannock,  159 


INDEX, 


191 


626  Indian  corn,  green,  160. 

627  . .  corn  pudding,  IGO. 

671  Jams,  168. 

635  Jelly,  calves'  feet,  165. 

666  . .  shank,  167. 

667  . .   tapioca,  167. 
670   ..   fruit,  168. 
374  Jerked  beef,  108. 

430  Kale,  sea  and  Scotch,  118. 
Keeping  fresh  meat.  111. 

390  .  .   general  remarks  on.  111. 

391  . .   slightly  roasted  for,  111. 

392  . .   best  method  for.  111. 

393  . .   Franklin  (Dr.)  on,  111. 
393   ..  to  kill  fowl  for.  111. 
394,395  recipes  for,  112. 

255  Kid,  to  roast,  82. 

Kitchen,  rules  and  maxims  of, 

24. 
. .   what  must  always  be  done, 
and    what    must    never    be 
done,  25. 
290  ..  grates,  88. 

174  Lamb,  a  leg,  boijed,  63. 

1 75  . .  neck  of,  boiled,  63. 
242   . .  roasting,  77. 

176  Lamb's  head  and  pluck,  63. 
. .   browned,  63. 

469  Lard,  hog's,  to  clarify,  128. 
320  Larding,  94. 
735  Lemonade,  184. 
196  Ling,  to  boil,  69. 

202  Mackerel,  boiled,  69. 

203  . .   broiled,  69. 

204  . .  baked,  or  pickled,  70. 
Made  dishes,  remarks  on,  100. 

365  Marrow  bones,  106. 

641  Mince  meat,  American,  162. 

259  Moor  game,  to  roast,  83. 

433  Morels,  119. 

209  Mullets,  red,  70. 

432  Mushrooms,  118. 

169  Mutton,  a  leg,  boiled,  62. 

170  . .  neck  of  boiled,  62. 

171  . .  shoulder,  boiled,  62. 

172  ..  breast,  boiled,  62. 

237  . .  roasted,  76. 

238  . .  venison  fashion,  77. 


342  Mutton,  hashed,  101. 

.346   ..   chops  delicately  stewed,l  01 

346  . .  broth,  good,  101. 

599  Omelet,  friar's,  155. 

338  Orange  or  lemon  peel  tincture 

of,  100. 
332   ..  preserved,  99. 
669    . .   marmalade,  167. 
668  Orgeat,  167. 
219  Oysters,  stewed,  72. 

221  . .   fried,  73. 
218   . .   au  gratin,  72. 

222  . .   broiled,  73. 

615  Pancakes,  common,  157. 

616  ..  rice,  158. 

617  ..   cream,  158. 

120  Parsley  and  butter,  55. 

436  Parsnips,  120. 

259  Partridges,  to  roast,  83. 

491  Paste,  puff,  136. 

492  . .  sweet,  136. 

495  . .  biscuit,  136. 

497  ..  stringing,  136. 

498  . .  potatoe,  137. 

499  . .  rice,  137. 

Pastry,    general     observations 
on,  134. 

500  . .  icing,  137. 

496  Pastry,  crust  for  venison,  136. 
531  . .  to  prepare  venison  for,  142. 
533   . .  of  beef  or  mutton,  to  eat  aa 

well  as  venison,  143. 

543  Patties,  fried,  144. 

544  . .   oyster,  144.  • 

545  ..  beef,  144. 

546  . .   a  good  mince  for,  145. 
259  Pea  fowl,  to  roast,  83. 

418  Peas,  green,  116. 

419  ..  to  stew,  116. 
215  Perch,  to  boil,  71. 
258  Pheasant,  to  roast,  82. 

Pickles,  general  remarks  on,19. 

471  Pickling,  first  method  of,  129. 

472  . .   second  method  of,  129. 

473  . .  third  method  of,  130. 

474  . .  gherkins,  130. 

475  ..   French  beans,  130. 

476  . .   onions,  130. 

477  . .   red  cabbage,  130. 

478  . .   garlic  and  eschalots,  131. 


192 


INDEX. 


479  Pickling,  melons,  mangoes,  and 

long  cucumbers,  131. 

480  . .   brocoli  or  cauliflowers,  131. 

481  ..   walnuts,  131. 

482  . .  beet-roots,  131. 

483  . .   cauliflowers     and     brocoli, 

132. 
,484  ..  artichokes,  132. 
485   . .  artichoke  bottoms,  132. 
48fi   . .  mushrooms,  132. 

487  . .   samphire,  132. 

488  .  .   Indian,  132. 
373  Pickling  meat,  1 07. 
378  ..  tongues,  109. 
378   . .  chines,  109. 
378  . .  chops,  109. 

501  Pic,  perigord,  137. 

502  ..  sole,  137. 

503  . .  eel,  138. 

504  . .  oyster,  138. 

505  . .  pilchard,  138. 

506  . .   a  remarkable  fine  fish,  138. 

507  . .  beef-steak,  138. 

508  . .  beef-steak  and  oyster,  138. 

509  . .  veal,  chicken,  and  parsley, 

138. 

510  . .  veal  olive,  138. 

511  ..  veal,  139. 

512  . .  a  rich  veal,  139. 

513  . .  calPs  head,  139. 

514  . .  excellent  pork  to  eat  cold, 

140. 

515  . .   lamb,  140. 

516  Pie,  mutton,  140. 

517  ..  chicken,  140. 

. .  young  rabbits,  140, 

519  . .  giblet,  140. 

520  . .   green  goose,  1 40. 

521  . .   Staflbrdshire  goose,  141, 

522  . .   hare  to  eat  cold,  141. 

523  ..   partridge,  141. 

524  ..   a  French,  141. 

525  . .   pigeon,  141. 

526  . .  squab,  141. 

527  . .   duck,  141. 

528  ..   rabbit,  142. 

529  . .  vegetable,  142. 

530  . .  an  herb,  142. 

534  . .   apple,  143. 

535  . .  cherry,  143. 

536  ..   currant,  143. 

537  . .  mince,  143. 


245 
246 
182 


439 
440 
441 

442 


629  Pie,  pumpkin,  160. 

630  ..   carrot,  161. 

Pies,  tarts,  and  puffs,  137. 

247  Pig,  sucking,  roasted,  79. 
181  Pig's  Pettitoes,  boiled,  64. 

262  Pigeons,  to  roast,  83.  ' 

212  Pike,  71. 
736  Pop,  184. 

243  Pork,  roasting,  78. 

244  . ,  leg  of,  roasted  without  the 
skin,  78. 

spare  rib  of,  78. 

loin  of,  roasted,  79. 

salt,  boiled,  64. 
183   ..  pickled,  boiled,  64. 
667  Posset,  167. 

437  Potatoes,  120. 

438  . .  to  boil,  122. 
.  to  steam,  122. 
.   to  roast,  122. 
.   mashed,  122. 
.   roasted  under  meat,  129. 

443  . .  fried  or  broiled,  123. 

444  . .   balls,  123. 

445  . .  snow,  123. 

248  Poultry  to  roast,  79. 

38  . .  time  of  killing,  31. 

39  . .   drawing,  31. 

41-42  Poultry,  trussing,  31. 

45  . .  ducks,  33. 

46  . .  geese,  33. 
turkeys,  33. 
pigeons,  33. 
pheasants,   partridges,   and 

guinea  fowls,  34. 
wild  ducks,  34. 
woodcocks,  plovers,  &c.,  34. 
hare,  34. 
rabbits,  35. 
fawns  or  kids,  35. 
sucking  pigs,  35. 

327  Powder,  savoury  soup,  98. 

328  . .   curry,  98. 
for  ragouts,  98. 
for  white-made  dishes,  99. 
for  brown-made  dishes,  98. 
anchovy,  99. 

336  ..  oyster,  99. 
461   . .   mushroom,  126. 

Preserves,  168. 

Puddings,     cheesecakes,    &c.^ 
145. 


47 

48 
49 

50 
51 
52 
53 
54 
55 


329 
331 
330 
335 


INDEX 


193 


Pudding-,  to  make  paste,  146. 

.  .   plum,  147. 

.  .   a  plain  family  plum,  147. 

. .  a  common  plum,  147. 

.  .    a  very  light  plum,  147. 

.  .   national  plum,  148. 

. .   potatoe,  148. 

.  .   cottag'e  potatoe,  148. 

.  .  rich  sweet  potatoe,  148. 

. .   carrot,  148. 

.  .    black  cap,  148. 

. .   sag-o,  149. 

.  .   a  very  good,  149. 

. .   bread  and  butter,  149 

. .   almond,  149. 

. .   Kitchiner'3,  149. 

. .   Dutch  rice,  150. 

. .   rice,  150. 

. .   another  rice,  150 

.  .   baked  rice,  150. 

. .   ground  rice,  150. 

. .   rice  snow  balls,  151. 

. .  plain  rice,  151. 

. .  vermicelli,  151. 

.  .   tapioca,  151. 

. .   sago,  151. 

. .  Russian  seed,  151. 

. .   suet,  151. 

. .   Hunter's,  152. 

.  .   Marlborough,  152. 

. .   custard,  152. 

. .  baked  vermicelli,  153. 

.  .  marrow,  153. 

. .  conservative,  153. 

. .  economical,  153. 

. .   delicate  bread,  153. 

. .   barley,  153. 

. .  Newmarket,  154. 

. .  a  light,  154. 

.  .   Yorkshire,  154. 

.  .   a  nice  suet,  154. 

. .   mother  Eve's,  154. 

. .  Newcastle,  154. 

. .  hasty,  154. 

.   arrow-root,  1 54. 
■ .   a  Swiss,  155. 
. .   Oxford,  155. 

.  muffin,  or  cabinet,  155 

.   French  and  Italian,  155. 

.   a  cheese,  155. 

.   a  very  rich,  155. 

.  chesnut,  156. 
16* 


607 
608 
609 
628 
631 
632 
633 
634 
635 
636 
637 
547 
548 
549 
550 


Pudding,  rusk,  156. 

. .    Portugal,  156. 

. .   tansey,  156. 

. .   boiled  maze,  160. 

.  .   American  custard,  161 

. .  American  plum,  161. 

. .   rennet,  161. 

. .   American  apple,  161. 

..   bird's  nest,  161. 

. .   American  souse,  161. 

. .   American  dry  bread,  162. 

Puffs,  apple,  145. 

. .   lemon,  145. 

• .   excellent  light,  145. 

. .   cheese,  145. 


257  Rabbit,  to  roast,  82. 
366  Ragout  of  duck,  or  any  other 
kind  of  poultry  or  game,  106. 
264  Reed  birds,  83. 
574  Rice  bignets,  151. 
Roasting,  73. 

223  . .  spitting  before,  73. 

224  . .   best  kind  of  spits  for,  73. 

225  . .  fire  for,  74. 

226  . .  time  for,  74. 

227  ..  to   preserve   the  fat  v^rhite, 

74. 

228  . .  how  to  make  a  fire  for,  74. 

229  . .  distance  from  fire  for,  74. 

230  . .  slow,  75. 

231  . .   dripping-pan  for,  75. 

232  . ,  attention  to,  75. 

. .  general  remarks  on,  75. 

Salads,  123. 
446  . .  general  remarks  on,  123. 

187  Salmon  to  boil,  66. 

188  . .   broiled,  66. 

189  ..   baked,  67. 

190  . .   pickled,  67. 
Salting,  106. 

367   . .  general  remarks  on,  106. 
363   . .  meat,  107. 

369  . .   quantities  for,  107. 

370  . .  time  for,  107. 

371  . .  hasty,  107. 
343  Sandwiches,  101. 

Sauces,  52. 
109    .  .   for  fricassee  of  fowls,  rab. 
bits,  white  meat,  fish,  or  ve- 
getables, 53. 


194 


INDEX 


110  Sauces,  for   cold   fowl  or  par- 

tridge, 54. 

111  . .  very  rich  mushroom  for  fowls 

or  rabbits,  54. 

112  . .   for   boiled   carp,   or   boiled 

turkey,  64. 

113  . .  green,  for  green  geese,  or 

ducklings,  54. 

114  . .   egg,  54. 

115  . .  onion,  54. 

116  . .  apple,  54. 

117  .  .  gooseberry,  54. 

118  . .   wow-wow,  55. 

119  . .   curry,  55. 

120  . .   parsley  and  butter,  55. 

121  . .   fennel  and  butter  for  mack- 

erel,  55. 

122  . .  plum  pudding,  55. 

123  . .   anchovy,  55. 

124  . .  caper,  55. 

125  . .  mock  caper,  55. 

126  . .  shrimp,  55. 

127  . .  oyster,  55. 

128  ..  lobster,  56. 

129  . .  liver,  56. 

130  ..  bread,  56. 

131  . .  for   tripe,    calf's    head,   or 

cow  heel,  56. 

132  . .  celery,  56. 

133  . .  tarragon,  or  burnet,  56. 

134  . .  sorrel,  for  lamb  or  veal,  and 

sweetbreads,  56. 
J  35   . .  poor  man's,  56 

136  ..  truffle,  56. 

137  . .  sharp  for  venison,  57. 

138  . .   sweet  for  venison,  57. 

139  . .  wine  for  venison,  hare,  or 

hamich  of  mutton,  57. 

140  . .  for  a  pig,  57. 

141  ..  turtle,  57. 

142  ..  for  all  sorts  of  fish,  57. 

143  . .  pudding,  57. 

144  . .  custard,  57. 

145  . .   roe,  58. 
71  Scotch  brose,  40. 

362  . .   collops,  105. 

Seasonings,    general    observa- 
tions on,  84. 

265  . .  roast  pork,  ducks,  or  geese, 

84. 

266  . .  sucking  pig,  84. 

267  .  goose,  84. 


268  Seasonings,  chesnut  for  goose, 
84. 

Setting  out  a  table,  177. 

Sheep's  heads,  boiled,  62. 
733  Sherbet,  183. 

205  Skate,  to  boil,  70.    ' 
263  Small  birds,  to  roast,  83. 

206  Smelts,  to  fry,  70. 
261  Snipes,  to  roast,  83. 

192  Soles,  to  boil,  67. 

193  . .  fried,  67. 

194  . .  stewed,  68. 
Soups,  broths,  &c.,  38. 

66  Soup,  clear  gravy,  38. 

67  . .   ox  tail,  38. 

70   . .  cock-a-leeky,  39. 

72  . .  pease,  40. 

73  . .  pease  and  pickled  pork,  40 

74  . .   plain  pease,  41, 

75  . .   Spanish,  41. 

79  ..  and  bouilH,  42. 

80  . .   a  cheap,  42. 

81  ..  veal,  42. 

82  ..  calf's  head,  42. 

83  ..  giblet,42. 

84  . .   Kitchiner's  cheap,  43. 

85  . .  maigre,  43. 

86  . .  mock  turtle,  44. 

87  . .  carrot,  45. 

88  . .  mulligatawny,  or  curry,  45. 

89  . .  eel,  45. 

90  . .  gourd,  46. 

91  . .   game,  46. 

92  . .  turnip  and  parsley,  46. 

93  ..  celery,  46. 

95  . .  hare,  rabbit,  or  partridge, 

47. 

96  . .   portable,  47. 

339  Spice,  spirit  of,  mixed,  100. 
415  Spinach,  116. 
206  Sprats,  to  fry,  70. 
413  Sprouts,  young,  115. 
629  Squash  pie,  160. 

291  Stew,  hearth,  88. 

292  . .  hearth,  usefulness  of,  89. 

94  ..  lamb,  46. 
98  ..   Irish,  49. 

345  ..  Mr.  Phillips's  Irish,  101 

348  ..  brisket  of  beef,  102. 

352  Stowed   shin    or    leg  of    beefj 

102. 
355   .  ,   rump  steaks,  103. 


IN  DEX 


195 


99  Stock,  first,  or  beef  broth,  50. 

269  Stuffing  and  force  meat,  84. 

. .  for  veal,  roast  turkey,  fowl, 
&c.,  84. 

270  . .  goose  or  duck,  84. 

271  .     for  turtle,  85. 

272  hare,  85. 

273  ..  veal,  85. 

274  . .  pike,  carp,  or  haddock,  85. 

275  . .  heart,  86. 

276  . .  poultry  and  game,  86. 

277  . .  veal  cake,  86. 

199  Sturgeon  to  boil,  69. 

200  . .   to  roast,  69. 

201  . .   stewed,  69. 

468  Suet  and  fat,  to  clarify,  128. 
470  Sugar,  clarified,  128. 
241  Sweetbread,  veal,  77. 
654  Syllabub,  whip,  165. 

538  Tarte  de  moie,  143. 

539  Tart,  rhubarb,  144. 

540  . .  to  prepare  cranberries  for, 

144. 

541  . .   lemon,  144. 

542  Tartlets  or  puff's,  orange,  144. 
260  Teal,  to  roast,  83. 

217  Terrapins,  72. 

323  Thickenings,  96. 

662  Thick  milk,   or   flour   caudle, 

166. 
205  Thornback,  to  boil,  70. 
184  Tongues,  to  boil,  65. 
653  Trifle,  164. 
179  Tripe,  63. 

207  Trout,  to  broil,  70. 

208  . .  stewed,  70. 
434  Truffles,  119. 

37  Trussing,  31. 
191  Turbot,  to  boil,  67. 
186  Turkey,  to  boil,  65. 
248  . .  to  roast,  79. 
248   . .   poults,  to  roast,  79. 
417  Turnips,  116. 

97  Turtle  soup,  green,  48. 

177  Veal,  boiled,  63. 

239  . .  roasting,  77. 

240  . .  fillet  of,  roasting,  77. 

358  . .   hashed  or  minced,  104. 

359  . .  to  make  an  excellent  ragout 
of  cold.  104. 


360  Veal,  olives,  105.  g 

361  . .   knuckle  of,  to  ragout,  105 
Vegetables,  37. 

62  . .   preparing  for  dressing,  37. 

63  . .  asparagus,  artichokes,  spi 

nach,  37. 

64  . .  potatoes  and  Jerusalem  ar- 

tichokes, 37. 

65  . .   carrots,  parsnips,  beetroots 

and  turnips,  37. 
. .   cooking,  113. 
398 — 499   . .   general    observations 

on  cooking,  113,  114,  115. 
416  Vegetable  marrow,  116. 
253  Venison,  haunch  of,  to  roast 
81. 
Vinegars,  flavoured,  124. 

447  . .  for  salads,  124. 

448  . .  basil,  124. 

449  . .  burnet,  125. 

450  . .   cress  or  celery,  125. 

451  . .  horse-radish,  125. 

452  . .  garlic,   onion,  or   eschalot, 

125. 

453  . .  tarragon,  125. 

454  . .  elder  flower,  125. 

455  . .  green  mint,  125. 

456  . .   camp,  125. 

457  . .   capsicum,  cayenne,  or  ohili, 

125. 
734  . .  raspberry,  183. 

656  Whey,  165. 
324  White  thickening,  97. 
198  Whitings,  to  fry,  69. 
260  Widgeon,  to  roast,  83. 
260  Wild  ducks,  to  roast,  83. 

Wines,  general   directions  for 
making,  178. 

716  . .  ginger,  178. 

717  ..  mead,  179. 
717   . .  metheglin,  179. 

717  . .  honey,  179. 

718  . .  parsnip,  179. 

719  . .  malt,  or  English  sherry,  179 

720  . .   orange,  boiled,  180. 

720  . .  lemon,  boiled,  180. 

721  . .  grape,  180. 

722  . .  raisin,  180. 

723  . .  raisin  with  sugar,  181. 

724  . .  raisin,  in  imitation  of  Fron 

tignac,  181. 


196 


INDEX 


725  Wines,    gooseberry,     without 
boiling,  181. 

725  . .   currant,    without     boihng, 

181. 

726  . .   orange,     without     boiling, 

181. 
726     .  leitlon,  without  boiling,  181. 


727  Wines,  cowslip,  or  clary,  182 

728  . .   birch,  182. 

729  .  .   elder,  182. 

730  .  .   damson,    or    black    cherry, 

182. 
261  Woodcocks  to  roast,  83. 


THE  BND. 


r>' 


'% 


CJ^ 


( 


